Xalapa, Veracruz

Regions and States

Xalapa-style green mole: Mole verde de Xalapa

Puebla and Oaxaca both have their own distinctive versions of green mole, but none is as laden with fresh vegetables as Xalapa’s mole verde. Although I have prepared several meatless pipians and red moles for my vegetarian children, I always make a batch with poultry or meat for the rest of us. Although most people prefer mole with chicken […]

Xalapa, Veracruz

Xalapa, Veracruz: city of flowers

Here’s a place for retirees and snowbirds to seriously consider. I previously extolled the charms of Morelia and wondered aloud why there weren’t more ex-pats living there. After continuing our tour of several colonial cities throughout Central Mexico I’m even more puzzled as to why Xalapa hasn’t become more of a permanent residence for Americans […]

Palacio Municipal - At night

Xalapa, Veracruz: My Mexican city of dreams

Originally from Boulder, Colorado, I have lived in Xalapa, Veracruz, for the last 27 years. Xalapa (hah-LAH-pah) is truly the place of my dreams. Nestled in lush coffee growing hills, with a micro climate averaging 68° F (20° C) year-round, it’s the capital of the Gulf of Mexico state of Veracruz. Xalapa comes from the […]

Navidad Xalapeña Photo: Roy Dudley

Jalapeña Christmas: A holiday in Xalapa

The sights, sounds and smells of Christmas in Mexico are wondrous, and Xalapa is no exception. Sparkling lights, music, cohetes (fireworks) and hot chocolate mix together to fill your senses. All Saints Day (Todos Santos) in early November ushers in the Christmas season and from then on a torrent of events seem to happen at the same […]

Juanote. Photography by Roy Dudley © 2001


Known affectionately as “Juanote” (Big John) to the inhabitants of Xalapa, Juan Herrera Vasquez ( 1924-1989) was a unique personality who was a humble cargador (mover), just as his father was, yet he had a deep passion for classical music. His knowledge of composers and their works were astonishing – as well as his collection of over […]

Taxco el Viejo, Guerrero © Rick Meyer 2004

Robert Barrett and Richard Nathan: two Englishmen in Xalapa, Veracruz

The first Englishman to set foot in Xalapa was an unfortunate fellow called Robert Barrett. That was back in 1568. Some 432 years later, another Englishman has set foot in this delightful city. But Richard Nathan considers himself a lot more fortunate, even though he arrived here after walking nearly 4,000 miles (6,400 kms). A […]

Edna Vite photograph

Labor of love: the work of Mexican photographer Edna Vite

Examining the photographs of Edna Vite is much like peering into the very depths of her heart. As Vite herself explains, the photographic artwork that she creates is a declaration of her love. “That is what I want to express – mi amor,” she says, explaining that it is something that she is offering up to […]


Xalapa – A report

Posted by Lee Harrison on Junio 17, 2000 I’ve recently returned from my second trip to Xalapa, and thought I’d share a few thoughts about the area, and my opinion of its suitability as a retirement location. Xalapa is a big place, with over 600,000 folks in residence. It’s pronounced “ha-LA-pa” (sometimes spelled Jalapa) and […]



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