I am not an addict or so my dealer says. Because I can stop whenever I want. I probably won’t, but that’s a different story. Today, for example, is Friday. It would be ridiculous to quit right before the weekend, wouldn’t it? I blame Guadalupe or Lupe, as she prefers. The thirty-seven-year-old supplier has spent […]
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Almost a quarter of your skeleton lives in your feet. Fifty-two bones. Dozens of joints. They will carry you 75,000 miles over a lifetime, enough to circle the Earth three times and usually without complaint… usually. Yet we spend most of that time ignoring them. Not to mention what lies beneath them. The trouble is, […]
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Men are strange creatures. On the hazy fumes of a drunken evening, they will compete over anything: V8 vs. V6 engines, grill surface area, lawn stripes and, after sufficient cerveza, even personal appendage metrics. But in a brightly lit taquería, when the conversation behind me turned to hammocks, I couldn’t help overhearing. For research purposes, […]
Continue ReadingPicture a small tropical city nestled up against sparkling coastal waters, surrounded by fortress walls, complete with drawbridges and moats to keep out invading buccaneers. Where, in the twenty-first century, could this possibly be? No, it isn’t Pirates of the Caribbean at Disneyland. Nothing constructed by a theme park could come close to the real […]
Continue ReadingFish and salsa verde make a great combination. Serve this with black beans and rice for a classic campechano meal. Ingredients: 1 2-pound pompano, cleaned and scaled (snapper may also be used) juice of ½ lime 3 tablespoons corn oil ½ cup chopped onion 1 pound tomatillos, husked and coarsely chopped ½ cup chopped cilantro 2-3 serrano […]
Continue ReadingWe first tried this dish at a restaurant near the seawall in Campeche. Perhaps because pan means bread, we were expecting something like a tuna or salmon loaf, but these stacks of tortillas spread with black beans and cooked fish, topped with tomato sauce, were a delicious surprise. Ingredients: For the fish filling: 1 tablespoon corn oil […]
Continue ReadingOne of the signature dishes of Campeche cuisine, this combines the best of local shellfish with what might be the quintessential flavor of the tropics, coconut. At La Pigua, it is served accompanied by a homemade applesauce, an unexpected and surprisingly good complement. Ingredients: 24 jumbo shrimp, peeled, leaving the tail and first segment of […]
Continue ReadingA traditional and delicious Mexican dish, chilmole — sometimes called relleno negro — is made from one of the classic recados, or seasoning combinations. This dish, said to have originated in Campeche, is eaten all over the Yucatan peninsula, especially around Christmas and the New Year, when there is an abundance of leftover holiday turkey. It is a nice change from […]
Continue Reading“It’s this heat… this heat… that scorches every cell of my body that kills me about this place,” the Texan says while sipping his drink. “I’m going to be a linguistic genius with that phrase ‘Hace mucho calor’ [It’s very hot] before I leave Carmen.” Located on the Gulf of Mexico off the Yucatan peninsula, lies the […]
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As a child, I sometimes read comic books for entertainment. I did not believe in flying dragons but they certainly stimulated the imagination. As an old-timer, older than dirt, I read travel writers just for fun. I do believe some write at great length about Mexico without ever visiting. Case in point: Smarter Travel magazine […]
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