Photo gallery: Canine beach patrol in Colima: Coco the expert turtle-finding dog © Joseph Sorrentino, 2022

Coco has been finding turtle nests for two years now. “She’s a Mini pin (Miniature Pinscher) and something else,” said Eileen Hoeter, her owner. Eileen and her husband Jedd built Villa Star of the Sea, a resort in Playa del Coco, Colima, Mexico, in 2015, and, as they walked along the beach, would come across baby turtles and females laying eggs. “There are three types of turtles here,” said Eileen, “Olive Ridley, Green Turtle and Leatherback.”

The first two species are listed as vulnerable and Leatherbacks are critically endangered. Soon after they opened their resort, they were asked by ECOBANA, an animal rescue organization in nearby Barra de Navidad, to build a turtle sanctuary. They opened it in late 2015.

The Hoeters attended a session at the University of Guadalajara to learn how to handle the eggs and babies. It’s illegal to collect eggs but they have certificates from the university showing they have permission to do so. Virtually every morning they’re in Playa del Coco, they’re out searching for turtles and eggs, something that starts well before dawn.

Coco sat in Eileen’s lap, peering intently into the darkness as we headed out to the beach in Eileen’s jeep. “We have to start before dawn because once it’s warmer, it’s too late to release them,” said Eileen. “It also stops poachers and dogs.” As we drove, she pointed out holes that were nests dug up by poachers. “They sell the eggs for five or maybe eight pesos. People believe they’re an aphrodisiac.” She said poachers aren’t dangerous and if she finds someone stealing eggs, she’ll sometimes give them some money and warn them that they’re risking five years in jail. Other holes were surrounded by dried egg shells; those were eggs found and eaten by dogs.

Finding the turtle nests

Eileen scanned the beach for turtle tracks, which look a lot like tire tracks, and run perpendicular to the ocean. Finding one, she followed it to the end, about fifty yards from the water’s edge and put the jeep in park. “The nest must be high enough so water doesn’t wash them out,” she explained as she got out. “Come on, Coco. Let’s go find some turtles.”

For years, Eileen had to find and dig out the nests on her own. “I would use a sharp stick, poke it in the sand,” she said. If the sand was soft, it could indicate a nest but, she added, “Females will build false nests” to throw off predators. When she found what she believed was a nest, “I’d get on my hands and knees and dig. Coco would watch and one day she just started digging. She can smell the eggs and the turtles.” The Hoeters have three other dogs but none have shown the slightest interest in finding turtle nests. “What would take me an hour to do, Coco can do in twenty minutes. It saves a lot of time. And I don’t ruin my manicure.”

Coco immediately began racing around, sniffing the ground. When she detected a nest, she began digging furiously, stopping occasionally to put her nose deeper in the sand. As soon as she saw some white, indicating that she’s found eggs, she stopped immediately and let Eileen takeover. “You must be very careful,” she said. “I loosen the eggs and I close my eyes. I do it by touch. I take out some sand—it has the mother’s secretions—and put it in the bucket to cover the eggs.”

The eggs are taken to the sanctuary where they’re reburied. Fifty-five days later, between 75% and 85% of the eggs will hatch and the babies will be released to the sea.

Coco can also locate baby turtles

As we were driving back to the sanctuary one morning, Eileen spotted an eagle with a baby turtle in its beak and figured there must be a nest nearby. It was already daylight and getting hot and, if the nest wasn’t located, the babies would most likely die. It didn’t take Coco long to find it and it still had 40 or so babies in it. They were placed in a plastic tub, along with some water. A short distance away, Coco sniffed out another baby. “She found a baby stuck in vegetation and on its back,” said Elsie Elford, a guest at the resort who was helping with the rescue. “The baby never would have made it.”

Babies aren’t released directly into the water. “They pick up something from the sand,” Eileen said. “Sand here is different from sand in all other places. After three years, females come back. Males never come back. No one knows what they do or where they go for three years.”

Baby turtles are a study in determination

After digging out from a nest buried at least two feet deep, they head to the water, 50 yards  (15 meters) away. They use their flippers like paddles, pushing themselves forward, pausing every three or four seconds to gather themselves for another push. A wave comes in and knocks them back, turning them around. They point themselves toward the ocean and continue. Waves push them back again and again and, every time, they right themselves and continue. A wave knocks one on its back. It struggles to turn itself over and when it does, heads out again. Finally, they disappear into the water and the ocean takes them on their inevitable journey.

The babies face many dangers as they make their way to the water. They can be eaten by eagles, terns and even crabs. Once in the water, they become prey for any number of predators. They have a three day food sac attached to their shells and after that, begin feeding on aquatic insects, plants and small fish. Hoeter said it’s thought that only one out of a thousand survives.

At the end of one morning’s rescue mission, Eileen spotted a female burying a nest, which was unusual because it was daylight and turtles typically lay eggs at night, when it’s safer. We watched as she slowly covered the nest with sand. It looked like she was exhausted. After an hour, she lumbered out of the hole and made her way to the ocean.

Turtle population change

The Hoeters file regular reports with the University of Guadalajara. “[We] report on the number seen, damage by dogs, the number of eggs collected, and the species, and how many from nests are released,” said Eileen. She said they hadn’t noticed any changes in numbers over the years but, in the last two years, they’ve found some very small eggs in the nest, ones that don’t hatch. She’s not sure why that’s happening.

Climate change will certainly have an effect and may be doing so already. “Eggs that are laid are asexual,” Elaine said. “The higher the eggs are [in a nest], the warmer they are and they will become females. It’s cooler at the bottom and they will become males. With the climate warming, there will be more females.”

The Hoeters are helping to rebuild the turtle population that had been decimated by a turtle processing plant in Barra de Navidad. “We’re rebuilding it,” said Elaine. “We do two-thirds of the work. We hatch the eggs, get them to the ocean and then they’re on their own.” It’s clear that she loves the work. “It’s never the same. It’s an amazing thrill to help these creatures. It never gets boring. It’s a very calm thing to do, an adventure every morning.”

Most of the cost for maintaining the sanctuary is paid for by the Hoeters, although they do have fundraisers and accept donations. For more information or to donate: cocoturtlerescue@gmail.com. Website: http://lasirenagordita.com/turtle.html

Related articles

• Rescuing and releasing sea turtle hatchlings in Todos Santos, Mexico
• La Peñita de Jaltemba: Mexico beach with a turtle sanctuary
• Playa Las Tortugas, Playa Platanitos and San Blas: Hidden gems on Mexico’s Nayarit Riviera: Hidden gems on Mexico’s Nayarit Riviera
• Good news for Mexico’s marine turtles and terrestrial tortoises

Joseph Sorrentino is a journalist, photographer and playwright. His website is www.sorrentinophotography.com. His book  Stinky Island Tales: Some Stories From An Italian-American Childhood (Amazon) is a collection of four stories in English and Spanish with 26 drawings. It’s available as both a paperback and Kindle version.

Published or Updated on: November 29, 2022 by Joseph Sorrentino © 2022

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Photo Gallery: A family trip to Mazatlán—Sinaloa's Pearl of the Pacific

La Perla del Pacífico-“The Pearl of the Pacific”. That’s what Mazatlán, Mexico, is called.

Mazatlán is located in the state of Sinaloa, on Mexico’s Pacific coast, looking out across the water towards the tip of the Baja California peninsula. However, Mazatlán is not the only “Pearl of the Pacific.” At least 9 Latin American coastal cities lay claim to being La Perla del Pacífico.

These cities are, from north to south:

1. Ensenada de Todos Los Santos, Baja California, Mexico
2. Mazatlán, Sinaloa, Mexico
3. Acapulco, Guerrero, Mexico
4. Puntarenas, Costa Rica
5. Tumaco, Colombia
6. Guayaquil, Ecuador
7. La Bahía de Chimbote, Peru
8. Callao, Peru
9. Valparaíso, Chile

I don’t doubt that all nine of these pearls of the Pacific are worth visiting, nor that each and every one could justly be referred to as a Pearl of the Pacific. But I’ve only been to one of them: Mazatlán. And I KNOW it qualifies.

Tourism, including the typical beach resort activities, is important in Mazatlán. But it’s not all tourism. Mazatlán boasts a working harbor where cargo is shipped. It has a thriving commercial fishing industry. Moreover, it is a base for sports fishing excursions and a destination for cruise ships.

Islands off the coast and other distinctive features, including an impressively located lighthouse (Faro) are attractions giving Mazatlán its own combination of factors that make it a true Pearl of the Pacific.

Why we visited

For years, my wife Lilia and I had enjoyed visiting different parts of Mexico. When we visited an area, we tried to see what was unique about it. The addition of two sons to the family didn’t change our traveling philosophy.

Rather than seeking “kid things” to do, though, we just continued visiting the same sorts of places we wanted to visit, simply expecting our young sons to appreciate them also. And they did!

When our sons David and Raphael were eleven and seven (going on eight), we visited Mazatlán. None of us had been there before. We arrived by bus, across the sierra, traveling through cold mountains in the night, then descending to the coastal plain and eventually to Mazatlán.

Our visit to Mazatlán had begun.

The four days

Our son David, then 11-years of age, had a unique way of summarizing our four-day Mazatlán visit, by naming each day for a prominent living creature (pelican, crab, jellyfish, iguana) encountered on that day. Here, utilizing David’s naming system, is a summary of what we did each day:

Day One: Pelican Day

Upon arrival, we were soon installed in an economy hotel right along the beach. It was an inexpensive hotel right in front of the Pacific. I’m from the prairie and my wife is from the desert, so—whenever we go to the ocean—we want to be right by it! Our hotel room had an oceanside view, although we didn’t spend much time there during daylight.

From our hotel we walked to the Acuario Mazatlán (the aquarium) and explored its displays. We also saw the sea lion show, the aviary and other animals.

After that the driver of a pulmonía gave us a tour of Mazatlán. Pulmonías (literally “pneumonias”) are golf carts transformed into taxis. They have tops but are still open to the breeze.

Day Two: Crab Day

We went downtown, where we visited the archaeological museum, cathedral and market. After that, in a different part of Mazatlán, we went to see “Sea Shell City.” As the name indicates, it’s a sea shell museum and store, said to be the first and only one of its type in the Western Hemisphere. You may have seen the bumper stickers.

We also explored a marina. Later, in the evening, we spent several delightful hours on the beach and in the water in front of our hotel. We had to take advantage of that ocean!

Day 3: Jellyfish Day

As sometimes occurs in these major resorts, we got roped into a sales pitch for a time-share condominium, so that’s what we did in the morning. We got turned down, but then received a lesser offer. However, we decided it wasn’t for us anyway. So, no deal!

In the evening we went on the Fiesta boat tour. An open bus picked us up and took us to the embarkation point. We boarded a “yate” (a double-decked boat), rode around the port and out into the ocean. We passed the Faro (more on that later), went through some big rocks and near some islands, and headed back.

On the return voyage each of us four took a turn piloting the vessel. We saw the sunset, returned to shore and were bused back to our hotel.

Day Four: Iguana Day

We spent about an hour in the ocean in front of our hotel before it was time to check out. However, though we checked out of the hotel, we weren’t finished with Mazatlan. We left our luggage there, and set off to see more of the city.

We traveled by pulmonía to the foot of the Faro (Lighthouse) and climbed to the top to visit the lighthouse. The Faro Mazatlán is located atop a high hill and promontory. In operation since 1879, it’s one of the highest lighthouses in the world, can be seen for 30 nautical miles, and has sometimes been mistaken at a distance for a star. After making the trek to the top, we were able to chat with the lighthouse keeper.

After descending from the Faro we took a taxi to the Mirador restaurant, with its great views. From there we walked all the way back to our hotel, passing through a residential area, past the old customs house, and then along the malecón (oceanside promenade). After we retrieved our bags, we took a pulmonía to the bus station, and departed Mazatlán by bus.

Conclusion

Our family visit to Mazatlán, a true Pearl of the Pacific, was a great trip, made even more memorable when I was unexpectedly hailed by a former student, who had been in my English class in another city in Mexico. It’s a small world!

Our boys enjoyed the visit. Raphael (then 7 going on 8) really liked the bus ride, the boat ride, the pulmonías and the Fiesta bus. Notice what they all have in common—they are vehicles. David, age 11, decided he would like to go sport fishing.

Mazatlán is indeed a Pearl of the Pacific, and my family and I had enjoyed it together. We hope to visit it again some day.

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Photo Gallery: Visiting the Moon Goddess: A Day on Isla Mujeres

In bustling Cancún, we connected to old world dining at La Parilla on Avenida Yaxchilán in the Centro or downtown district of the city. Here in the lovely tiled interior, mariachis serenaded us while we dined on camarones a la tequila and Huarache Azteca con popal y arrachera.

We also shopped at the sprawling La Isla Cancún Shopping Village, with its upscale stores, rode the Ferris Wheel there, and were over-served way too many Palomas as we stood in the warm waters of the Caribbean.

It was time for a different take on the State of Quintana Roo and, luckily, that change was just a short ferry ride away.

• Interactive Map of Quintana Roo

Plying the waters of Nichupte Lagoon as it cuts through the center of Cancún, a journey past thickets of jungle and the ongoing expansion of this popular international tourist destination, our boat pilot tells us that centuries ago the women of the mainland who wished to have a child swam to Isla Mujeres. The name translates as the Island of the Women and that’s where Ixchel, the Mayan Moon Goddess had her temple. Ixchel had the power, the legend says, of granting fertility. Hence the reason for the visit of infertile women across the Bahía de Mujeres or Bay of the Women.

I hope they didn’t really have to swim and then climb up the 65-foot rock cliffs of Punta Sur to Ixchel’s temple. Surely there were canoes to make the trip that today takes 25 minutes by motorized ferry. But no matter how you arrive, the view is breathtaking—the waters surrounding the island are striated with shades of blues and greens.

We didn’t have to climb the cliffs, but instead docked at the long pier in front of the Miramar Lobster House on Av. Rueda Medina in the downtown. A sandy beach restaurant in business for a half-century, it is being renovated after an explosion took out about six businesses on the street. We order grilled fish and freshly made guacamole and plan our day. Some in our group think a piña colada might help with the planning, but I abstain as I’ll be driving the golf cart we’ve reserved for exploring the island.

There are all sorts of activities to sign up for—kayaking, diving, zip-lining, swimming with dolphins, and even the opportunity to indulge in an ancient Temescal—a type of spa cleansing treatment dating back to Mayan times that involves medicinal herbs, heated volcanic stones, and steam. But our only goals are to visit the temple and snorkel in the clear waters.

Miramar is just down the street from Coco Cart Rentals and so that’s our next stop after visiting a store or two. I opted out of hiring a guide, thinking it couldn’t be difficult getting to the southern tip of an island that seems to be just two main roads and is half a mile wide at its widest point.

Well, maybe it isn’t that easy after all, but we’re fortunate to join up with other tourists heading to Ixchel’s Temple. Soon we’ve left the traffic of the town behind, driving south past rows and rows of mansionesque homes. It’s been two decades since I was last on the island and I don’t remember anything like these stunning houses, including the one that I find out later is called The Shell House. It’s an apt name because it’s shaped like an enormous white shell with a conch-like spiked tower overlooking a swimming pool. It rents for about $300 a night. I mentally add it to my ever growing list titled “when I get rich.”

The island ends at Garrafon Reef Park (there’s an entry fee) where Ixchel’s temple is located. Her temple doesn’t compare to the magnificence of other Yucatán ruins such as Tulum and Chichen Itza—is this a woman thing? I wonder. But it still is a piece of Mayan history. Worn down by rains and winds during its 1500 years, Ixchel’s temple not only was a place to plea for a child but also probably served as a lighthouse to warn boats away from the rocky cliffs and bays. We view the rugged stone and I feel, as I always do, that strange, overwhelming sense of centuries past tugging at me—as if I could somehow reel back into the ancient times if I just knew the right words. Of course, I would have only made that trip if it was by canoe. That’s just the way I am.

The beach and the reef below are accessible by an easily navigable path but it means a climb down—and then, of course, back up. The reef is known for its beauty and as a place to snorkel without even having to be a good swimmer. Or you can remain on top. There’s plenty to do here, such as exploring the sculpture park, visiting the turtle farm, joining others who are building small structures out of the smooth round stones lining the clifftop, ordering a horchata or beer at the  open-air restaurant next to the lighthouse, and peruse the small shopping plaza.

Next we travel the length of the island to Playa Norte or North Point, the northern point of the island, often described as one of the most beautiful beaches in the area. The water is warm, and so clear that even waist high you can see your feet on the white sand sea floor. We’ve brought snorkels and swim amongst dense schools of fish—some pale white, others white with thin black stripes.

They seem friendly, circling around and coming close enough that I sometimes wave them away. Not fazed by my gestures, they always return, making it easy to snap great underwater photos with the small disposable camera I brought along. Later when I get home and have the photos developed and displayed, people will marvel that I was on some great diving excursion. But of course that isn’t true.

• For more information, visit isla-mujeres.net and www.garrafon.com/

Related articles on MexConnect

• Interactive Map of Quintana Roo
• 6 “Must Do” activities on your visit to Isla Mujeres
• Trouble Isla – Book 2 in the Isla Mujeres Mystery Series: a novel by Lynda L. Lock

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Photo Gallery: Pangas and piña coladas: a laid-back lunch on Isla de Ixtapa, Guerrero

Greg knows the old way—or so he says—but all I can see is an empty stretch of sand and water where the southern tip of Playa Quieta ends at a rocky outcropping of rocks jutting out into the Bahia de Palmar.

When I lived here, he explains, this is where we caught the pangas going to and from Isla de Ixtapa. Pangas are water taxis, propelled by outboard motors, that transport passengers the eight miles or so from the Ixtapa mainland to the island.

Of course, I think, Greg’s time here was years ago and now most tourists start this trip at the pier at Playa Linda, the main beach for swimming and snorkeling and the one where the crocodile sanctuary is located.

This is easier, Greg says, than going all the way into town. And indeed, if this is still a panga stop, it is just a short walk from the hotel where we’re all staying.

As I’m pointing out that there’s no signage (I’m still thinking like a city gal looking for a bus stop), the first panga arrives. As the motor is cut and it slows to a stop, I see even more boats coming up behind. Turning, I realize there are people along the shoreline towards us. It all makes me wonder if there’s a panga schedule that everyone knows but no one told me about.

It’s a wet embarkation, but then it is a beach after all.

I wade through the water to a waiting boatman who takes my bag and shoes and helps me up the ladder. Within 15 minutes of the engine starting back up, we dock at a jetty built of uneven stones edged by thick vegetation on one side and the sandy expanse of Playa Varadero on the other. The beach is crowded with restaurants, each covering a narrow strip of land stretching from Playa Varadero to Coral Beach, the volcanic stone-strewn cove on the other side of the island known for its excellent snorkeling. The restaurants all look somewhat alike to me—thatched roofs, plastic chairs surrounding metal tables and bars with large blenders buzzing almost constantly as ice and mangos, papayas and other fruits are pureed into margaritas and piña coladas.

We look hungrily at a tray of salt-rimmed margaritas, but we can’t stop. We’re on our way to Lili Cipriani. The name intrigues me, sounding like a Parisian café but it’s definitely a beach sort of place. Scattered around the large kitchen that takes center stage are busy workers shucking oysters from large net bags still dripping wet from the waters of the bay; others pat masa into round thin circles, flipping them onto large flat top griddles balanced above burning logs, while someone else stirs a large pot of beans suspended from a tripod over open flames.

All this old fashioned cookery isn’t just for show. There’s no electricity on the island, so propane and wood are shipped aboard pangas each morning, as are all other ingredients needed for a day’s worth of cooking. Everything that is but the seafood, which is hooked in the surrounding waters and then displayed on trays so diners can choose from such freshly caught items as lobster, shrimp, crabs, and red snapper. Pick out what you want, and it’s cooked the way you want it. Can’t really get much fresher than that!

Beyond the kitchen and the bar, Lili Cipriani is a one-stop shop—artisans sit in the shade, painting delicate patterns on the pottery sold in their store alongside sunscreen, sunglasses, and other beach necessities. Snorkeling equipment can be bought or rented. Massages, the real kind, are available upstairs. Vendors sell jewelry, ironwood carvings and exquisitely hand-embroidered blouses. Pass through here and you’re on Coral Beach but still at Lili Cipriani’s. Coral Beach is all jagged shoreline topped by huge stick cactus and the inky black outlines of volcanic rocks—a huge difference to the gentle waters of Playa Varadero where boats bob in the waters and families swim in the cove.

No matter which side you choose, it’s the ultimate in beach casual—sand for floors, the crash of waves sometimes covering the feet of diners whose tables are too near the shore, and bougainvillea flowers dropping onto tables and into beach bags. Indeed, this casualness extends to their seemingly inefficient way of keeping track of orders. It’s not that we don’t get the food we order, we do, but when we decide to migrate from one beach to the other and try to pay up, the server waves us off in a catch you later gesture. How do they know we aren’t going to board a panga and leave? It’s not like we’re the only people here, there must be at least a 100 or so diners and swimmers. I later learn the restaurant can accommodate about 300 or so.

Food and drinks are brought to us as they come out of the kitchen, but the servers never seem to write anything down. Cervezas are delivered to tables in large pails of ice. Empty beer bottles, turned upside down, are placed back in the pail, When only bottoms are showing, it’s taken away and the charges put on your bill. That is, if you can get a bill. Trying to check out, I go looking for our server and end up at the desk where Lili Pineda—the Lili of Lili Cipriani—is sitting.

It’s hot, my hair is frizzy, my beach cover up has a splash or two of hot sauce decorating it and I’m coated with a fine layer of salt and sand from swimming—my most strenuous activity because for the most part, I’ve just been eating and drinking.

Pineda is just the opposite—despite the crowds of diners and the whirlwind of her staff asking countless questions, she’s poised and calm. Her hair is immaculately coiffed, her make-up and nails perfect and she’s wearing—honestly—a tight fitting and very flattering dress and high heels. Her finishing touches are expensive gold earrings with matching bracelets and necklace. I am wearing a “pearl” necklace I bought on the beach the night before for $8. It seemed, at the time, like a great buy but of course it pales next to Lili’s jewelry.

Standing next to her, equally cool, and dressed in the same sophisticated style, is her daughter, Jessica Zamudio Pineda.

They are, of course, gracious, and yes, their English is much better than my Spanish. Our bill is quickly found, I pay and then decide I really really need an extra order of freshly shucked oysters to take with me.

But is there time? I ask, seeing my group gathering their beach gear, some already heading to the jetty where the next panga is due shortly—really I must find this mysterious panga schedule.

Beyond glamour, mother and daughter are amazingly efficient as well. Of course there’s time, they tell me and quickly my order is placed. A young man begins prying open oyster shells discarding the empty shells into a towering stack. Seeing me anxiously glancing at my group, Lili says something in a quiet voice and another shucker joins him. Within minutes I have my bag of oysters and am running through the sand where the panga waits.

• Contact Lili Cipriani Restaurant Bar by phone 755- 120-0404 or Facebook

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Photo Gallery: Los Ayala: undiscovered gem on the Nayarit coast

Los Ayala is situated at the foot of the Sierra de Vallejo Mountains. An undiscovered gem, Los Ayala is an authentic Mexican beach town and a fishing village. It is just now beginning to be discovered as a tropical beach destination by foreign tourists. The setting for the town is reminiscent of the Garden of Eden. The surrounding vegetation is dense and thick, including a thousand shades of green, hundreds of dancing palm trees, giant lime trees, mahogany trees, and an abundance of papaya, mango, banana trees.

Los Ayala is also a bird watcher’s paradise where flocks of green parakeets soar above the many variety of palms. Common to the area are amiable pelicans, frigate birds, prancing egrets, inca doves and white doves, tropical king birds and even the occasional lone eagle.

The half-mile long beach of Los Ayala is a palm fringed cove, perfect for swimming with soft, silky gold specked sand, a gradually sloping shoreline and crystal clear waters. Most days, the waves lap gently at the shore and, with the right weather and tide conditions, the blue Pacific water takes on a Caribbean green hue, and the calm water resembles a lake, offering perfect snorkelling conditions. Locals say with pride that Los Ayala has one of the most beautiful swimming beaches on Pacific Mexico’s coast.

At the south end of Los Ayala beach, the shoreline is rocky and dotted with caves that tempt visitors to explore a little. Los Ayala is said to be named after a group of bandits who sought refuge here many years ago (Los Ayalas), and the locals speak of a “Golden Door” hidden within a cave entrance, behind which lies a lost world and a magnificent treasure, still to be discovered. Los Ayala used to be called “Beach of the Mermaids,” which seems a more fitting appellation for this tropical oasis, far removed from bandits.

A ten-minute swim around the south end of the beach takes swimmers through some passable snorkelling, ending at the secluded and beautiful beach called Playa del Beso (Beach of the Kiss). If you continues swimming and head around the next bend, you end up at Playa del Toro (Beach of the Bull), an even more secluded beach where your only companions are birds, fish and the odd fisherman. Snorkelers frequently find themselves gliding through schools fish. If swimming is not your forte, it is an easy ten minute hike to Playa del Beso, and just another twenty minutes to Playa del Toro. The hike to Playa del Toro goes through the beautiful Nayarit rainforest.

The beach of Los Ayala is generally quiet and tranquil, but it has been a favourite with Mexican families for decades and still bustles with activity on weekends, holidays, and especially Semana Santa. “Holy Week” in Los Ayala is not for everyone, as the beach is packed and competing bands play music day and night, but it is definitely is off the beaten path and worlds away from the more heavily touristed beaches. The shore is lined with palapa restaurants serving delicious blackened fish and prawns cooked in a hundred fashions. It is very inexpensive to eat here and a pleasure to dine barefoot on the sand at any of the restaurants. Beach vendors sell pineapples stuffed with fresh fruit, and the locals carry large trays of muffins and sometimes even more tempting donuts on their head, displaying perfect posture and balance. The beach bustles with fishermen selling fish to the locals early in the morning, while the tourists delight in watching the amiable pelicans vie for the scraps.

The small town of Los Ayala even boasts an internet café, a coffee shop serving great cappuccino and espresso, and a disco called “Green Please” which features female impersonators.

Los Ayala is a magical Mexican beach town. Come, stay a while.

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“If you’ve ever traveled the mainland side of the Sea of Cortez, just south of the town of El Golfo de Santa Clara, you may have had lunch at a beach restaurant called “Johnny’s Place,” which is located on a long stretch of sand known as “Johnny’s Beach.” You might have wondered about the name; after all the name Johnny doesn’t sound very Mexican, now does it? Well, it turns out that Johnny’s Beach was named after me! Let me explain.

Back in 1963, I bought a new 4-wheel drive International Scout and got into off-road adventures. Naturally, Baja became my playground, and I managed to squeeze in an extra-long weekend once a month to explore the roadless wastes. Nothing was paved south of Ensenada in those wonderful days.

After many miles exploring the mountains and deserts of Baja, I decided to toodle over to the mainland to see what was happening there. Before long I found myself zipping along a newly paved highway south of San Luis, headed for a place noted on the map as El Golfo. Curiously, the map didn’t show a road here. Suddenly, the pavement came to a halt smack in the middle of the desert. Now I knew why there was no road on the map; it was still under construction. No problem, I dropped into four-wheel-drive and took off, grinding out my own trail over treacherous sand dunes and bouncing through steep canyons.

Several hours later, the little fishing village of El Golfo appeared before my weary eyes. In those days it was just a dozen or so adobe houses and one bar. I pulled up in front of the bar and wondered if they had cold beer. The villagers flocked around, curious as to who I was and how I arrived. “The road washed away a month ago,” they exclaimed, “How did you get here?” This miracle seemed to call for a celebration, so when I went inside to have a beer, almost the entire town squeezed into the bar to join me.

“Why are you here?” they asked. “Why would you drive through the desert to get here?” “What is your name?”

I explained that my name is John, or Juan. Before long they were calling me Juanito, or Johnny. But explaining why I would leave the comfortable, paved highways of Califa to traipse through the Sonoran desert was difficult. People who work ten hours a day, seven days a week, have trouble with the concept of leisure time, or hobby. The closest I could come was adventure. We all had more beer, with the fishermen toasting to las aventuras de Juanito, or “Johnny’s adventures.” This went on for some time into the night, with newcomers being informed of “las aventuras de juanito.” Since I was buying the beer (at a civilized price of 25 cents a bottle), the celebration lasted into the wee hours of the morning.

One of the celebrants was the chief engineer of the road construction project. He bought a round of drinks and told me of his work. In addition to building the road, he confided that he was also surveying some property which he was going to claim as his and build a large resort hotel there. The property included several miles of deserted beach. According to him, this would be the beginning of the next Acapulco. The next day, I bid adios to my friends, declining an offer of more beer and another celebration.

About a year later, I received a letter from my engineer friend. He insisted that I visit him in El Golfo; he had a surprise for me. He not only had a surprise, but he promised to bring a hooker from San Luis as an added enticement to make sure I came to visit. I might have accepted his invitation were it not for my wife’s none too subtle hint that this would not be a good plan. Reluctantly, I declined. He followed up with another urgent letter, saying I had to come, that he would bring six girls if one wasn’t enough. This did surprisingly little to soften my my wife’s opinion of the trip.

About six or seven years later I happened to be in the region, and decided to drop in on El Golfo. The paved road had changed it incredibly. It was no longer a village, but a small town. As I approached the outskirts, I saw a large sign advertising a resort called “Las Aventuras de Juanito.” Throughout the town were signs with arrows pointing toward “Johnny’s Beach” and “Johnny’s Hotel.” I followed the signs to Johnny’s Beach and saw where my friend had indeed started to build a resort, but he obviously ran out of money before getting very far. A few crumbling buildings and foundations indicated where the “new Acapulco” might have been. The only things standing were a restaurant called Johnny’s Place, plus a couple of sad-looking motel units which were already falling apart.

When I last visited El Golfo de Santa Clara a few years ago, I asked local people if anyone knew how Johnny’s Beach got its name. The replies were a shaking of heads. “No, señor. No one knows why the developer picked that name.”

Well my wife knew. And that’s why I didn’t get to attend the grand opening of my namesake resort. She was probably right though, six girls might have been a little much.

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Sayulita: bohemian surf town on the Nayarit coast

Sayulita: A quintessential Mexico beach town on the Riviera Nayarit

Sayulita beach is stunningly beautiful, and most visitors are completely captivated by its charm. The two-mile long beach boasts soft fine sand, warm blue waters, perfect surfing waves and is adorned by rich tropical foliage and swaying palms, fulfilling most people’s fantasy of a tropical oasis. Indeed Sayulita is commonly referred to as “The Jewel of Nayarit.”

Sayulita visitors come from all walks of life. You will meet the friendly hippy who chose to miss his flight home as well as the rich and famous searching for an off-the-beaten track vacation destination, who add a definite touch of glamour to the town. Even the stray dogs in Sayulita seem to be hipper than the rest of the strays in Nayarit, many adorned with jewelled collars.

The charm of Sayulita is that it remains a true Mexican town, with a mix of cobblestone and sand streets frequented by friendly locals, dogs, chickens, roosters and a large expatriate population who happily coexist. But it also offers the tourist — especially the younger generation — a hip, trendy and charming destination off the beaten path. Indeed, the town of Sayulita offers an eclectic mix of Mexican people who happily reside among a large population of Canadian, American and European and Japanese expats who call Sayulita home for at least half of the year.

Sayulita offers great surfing. The town hosts a number of tournaments and tours throughout the year, attracting surfers from all over the world. In fact, surfing is a way of life for Sayulita, and young surfers with toned bodies bedecked in the latest fashions appear enthralled by Sayulita.

The south end of the beach is populated by tourists, who recline on deluxe lawn chairs or under the shade of a palapa, taking in life at this beachside paradise while enjoying a cool one. This end of the beach can be a little crowded with tourists, vendors and surfers during the height of the tourist season. However, to avoid the crowds, one simply needs to walk a little way towards the north end of the beach, which is always quieter.

Sayulita offers visitors a wonderful variety of trendy upscale boutique stores with sand floors where clerks in the latest bohemian fashions sell rare imported black pearls, authentic Huichol creations, blankets from Oaxaca, and the hottest “Sayulita Fashion.” Sayulita also offers a lot of activities for the adventuresome, active and young and heart — ATV Tours, group hikes, yoga retreats and even services like acupuncture and massage therapy.

We love to visit Sayulita whenever we have an expatriate craving for lox and bagels, rye bread, chocolate chip cookies, bran muffins, or simply a deluxe dinner on par with some of the finer dining one might expect to find in San Diego, San Francisco or Vancouver. Don Pedro’s on the beach is our favourite place for dinner for its unbeatable beach setting, excellent service and cuisine, and because they serve the best chocolate mousse and crème brulee in Mexico. Of course, the prices are a little higher in Sayulita then in other beach towns along the Nayarit coast, but are well worth it, and still far less expensive than dinner at any comparable establishment, north of the border.

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In a country filled with wonderful beaches and resorts, what could possibly prompt someone to visit Playa Azul?

Perhaps because it’s there – representing the only sizeable beach town along the 250km of Michoacán’s coast. One must discount Lázaro Cárdenas, the sprawling industrial giant to the south, namely because it’s not a town and because even its proximity to the ocean cannot enhance its appeal.

In February 2000, two friends (seasoned travelers both) came to visit us in Pátzcuaro. They arrived rather green around the gills after an endlessly long bus ride from Lázaro, the bus whipping around one precipitous curve after another on the old free road.

In February 2002, we deprived ourselves of such thrills and delights and took our van along the nearly finished toll road. For old times sake, you could still sample about 25 odd miles of curvas peligrosas in the desviacion or detour caused by the one remaining unopened bridge.

In June 2002, spurred on by visions of a pool and a TV for watching the quarterfinals of The World Cup, we went again. Actually, believing that Mexico would beat the U.S., we were planning to go to Puerto Vallarta to take advantage of the special hotel deals and to watch the final games with a crowd. But fate and McBride intervened.

So we decided to return to Playa Azul and showed up at the hotel that had taken our fancy on the previous trip. The manager promised us up, down and sideways that the hotel TV carried all the World Cup games live and in living color. His erroneous assurance actually did us a favor.

Of course, we didn’t view it as such at the time. People who have been religiously setting the alarm for 12:30 and 5:30 AM since the beginning of June do not take too kindly when, freshly showered and wide awake, they find themselves looking at ads for foot powder instead of fút.

Our one-week visit to Playa Azul in February had in a mere few months grown to a stay of over fifteen days in the town’s memory. one can only imagine what might happen to the retelling of the frantic 1:30 AM search by the gringos through the streets of Playa Azul for an establishment with Direct TV. Playa Azul will always be etched in our memory as the town with an incredibly sweet scent wafting about in the heavy air of the early morning hours. And the one place in Mexico since 1974 where we have been unable to watch the World Cup.

If indeed Brazil had appeared on the screen playing Inglaterra instead of magical potions and apparatus to enhance every part of your body and life in general, we would have again hung around Playa Azul for our full five-day weekend, alternating sleepily between swimming and the end of quarterfinals.

Instead, we took off for Caleta de Campos.

If Playa Azul is small, Caleta is perhaps not quite as big. At least in terms of tourists. People-wise, there probably are an equal amount but Caleta is built up and alongside a hill, which gives it a different look entirely.

Visitors seem to be mostly a rather international mix of young people drawn to the beach, cheap living, the respectable if not top notch waves of Nexpa and possibly cheap pot.

An owner of one of the few tourist shops in town feels the vaunted new highway will actually detract from tourism in the area. He feels most of the visitors not attached to surfboards are spin-offs from the tourism that is happening in Playa Azul. His opinion is that once the new highway is completed, it will be that much easier for people to drive to Zihuatanejo, and they’ll just skip Playa Azul entirely.

Already the propaganda is noticeable. There’s a sign in one of the travel agencies here in town stating that it’s only a two and a half-hour run from Pátzcuaro to Ixtapa. It’s undoubtedly wishful thinking, but the options one could find in hotel accommodations and restaurant choices, the range in prices and the variety of activities in the Zihua/Ixtapa area are far more in keeping with the game plan of most tourists. Maybe that’s why we sort of like Playa Azul and the possibilities of Michoacán’s coast. It all moves at our kind of speed. The promised 3-4 hour trip for us takes five hours if we’re really pushing it.

Most people we’ve talked to put Playa Azul at the bottom of the list for beach towns. Or they actively hate it. Although I can understand their sentiments, the whole coast north of Lázaro has a certain degree of charm for us. In order to find that charm, however, you have to look to the intangibles of a place and not focus on standard attractions normally flaunted in guidebooks. For one, you won’t find many beachfront hotels. Two, much of the food, is best left alone if you choose to order from the menus.

It’s true, a friend recently told us, about a meal eaten in one of the myriad enramadas or palapas along the beach in Playa Azul that was worthy of having star billing in a fine Parisian restaurant. But then this is the same friend who swore by an easy shortcut to the border. The promised five-hour trip ended for us more than eleven grueling hours later.

Now all words of wisdom about Mexico, including these, should be taken with a grain of salt, which along with oil, make up the mainstays of the restaurant fare that we’ve encountered in Playa Azul.

The way around this dilemma is to describe how you would like the food prepared. The way to do this most efficiently is to speak Spanish.

Neither this sleepy little town nor the towns north along the coast have found much use for English to date since most tourists who fill the hotels, restaurants and beachfront enramadas are nationals. They tend to show up during the week between Christmas and New Years, Semana Santa and on family vacations during July and August. Most others seem to use the place as a way station from point A to point B.

It’s true there really isn’t much in the line of organized activities. Entertainment is where you find it. Not exactly what most would consider a hot time in the old town but most entertaining to us nevertheless.

Actually, it was a hot time. Hot and humid. But to me there is an enchantment to places like Playa Azul and Caleta. The fact that there is some tourism in the area prevents one from appearing a total freak. The size allows one to delve right in exploring people’s stories without any of the preliminaries necessary in larger, more traditional and insular places. The people we met were open to visitors from outside and quite curious. when one is answering questions, it’s not so hard to ask them. And let’s face it, in a place like Playa Azul or Caleta, such a conversational diversion can be considered a pretty cool event.

If you’re looking to share the amenities and the activities of a large resort with other English-speaking guests, you’ll have to wait a while for it to happen along the Michoacán coast. In the meantime, you can console yourself with the pleasures found in the hot spots north in Colima and Jalisco and south in Guerrero.

If you choose to go, be conscious of the fact that a pool should be a high priority item if you want to swim. Even a strong swimmer can have difficulty fighting the unpredictable rip tides that occur with regularity in the area. To date, we’ve found good pools at the Hotel Maria Teresa Jerico, the Hotel Playa Azul, the Villa Dorada outside of Playa Calabazas and the Hotel Yuritzi in Caleta. For twenty pesos per person, the latter allows non-guests use of the pool. Some of these pools are on the small side but all are well maintained.

There could well be others. We still have some exploring to do. In the two weeks we’ve taken to barely scratch the surface of the Michoacán coast, some people have toured the length and breath of the republic. This explains succinctly why we like the area so well. Our traveling style jells perfectly with the natural rhythm of the region.

Just like there’s a word to the wise about swimming in certain areas along this coast, I’d be very wary about buying property anywhere along the shore. It’s true the territory is tempting in its pristine beauty. The history behind a number of dubious land sales, however, is anything but pristine. If you hear of a deal that’s just too good to be true, it’s because it isn’t. Some of the most attractive terrenos have been sold three, four, five times over without possession of the land changing once. One imagines that an actual bonafide transaction could be accomplished, but absolute caution would be advised.

It seems easier to rent by the day, week or month. Hotels in Playa Azul nudge 500 pesos a double at the very top range with, of course, more economical, if less desirable, choices available. There are only two hotels in Caleta. Prices are 200-450 pesos for a double room for two people and can be negotiable. There are also rooms and houses available by the day or for longer periods. Villa Dorada has the highest price that we’ve found to date. Bungalows jumped to 300 pesos per person per night. This promotional rate includes breakfast. July and August are booked almost completely with time-share users.

The toll road still is unfinished. We paid 113 pesos one way plus the unofficial toll at Las Canas where the detour begins on the route east. If this stretch was wearisome last February, it is much worse now what with the rock slides brought on by the rainy season and the multitude of pot holes brought on by the heavy trucks that should but don’t take the longer winding road to La Mira.

Although we had stocked the cooler to provide for culinary contingencies, such precautions were not essential in waylaying hunger pangs. By going on the offensive right from the start and not leaving anything to chance as far as menu choices, we managed to have rather good, albeit plain, meals this time around.

Internet has arrived in Playa Azul. Two sites have alternated between operational and closed since our last visit.

The one open during our stay charged ten pesos for a five or 60 minutes hour.

This excursion taught us how expectations that are not realized can put a certain damper on the tone of a trip. So if you need lots of action on your vacation, it would probably be best to by-pass this stretch. If, however, you can enjoy beach resorts like Puerto Vallarta for only a few days at a time, if that, you could feel right at home for a longer stay in any one of the beaches on Michoacán’s coastline. It’s not that these places provide you with a long list of stuff to do. Rather they provide myriad possibilities for things to experience.

Michoacán’s undeveloped coastline still provides a view of Mexico away from the shadow of the condo. We’re definitely going back. If you can find enjoyment in just a beach and a slice of rural Mexico, you should too.

Next time, I plan to find sea salt in chunk form. Lusmila, my neighbor, friend and kitchen guru tells me sal de grano from the coast is the absolute best.

Trips have been planned for less.

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Posted by Tim Bowen on July 12, 1999

I am going on my honeymoon in 30 days, and I was told by someone who just returned that the beaches at Puerto Vallarta were not very nice to visit. I was told that the beaches were very pebbly and that there was dog crap and garbage all along the beach. The person said that they spent all of their time at the pool because it just wasn’t very nice to be at the beach, and that you couldn’t really do much swimming there. Can you help me out? Should we spend extra money and go to Cabo or Cancun, or are the beaches really not bad? Please help. Thanks.

Posted by Linda on August 08, 1999

We have been to PV several times, and are going back next month for 2 weeks. The beaches are not the best Mexico has to offer, but if you stay at the La Jolla De Mismaloya Resort, you will be on the best beach in the bay, and it is quite nice. The water at some beaches is not clear, due to the 5 rivers that run from the mountains down to the sea. There is no pollution. The beaches at the Marina area are sometimes called dirty, but they are simply located in an area that has a lot of driftwood and other “ocean debris” washing up on a regular basis, and not much can be done about it. For that reason, I do not recommend the Casa Magna (Marriott) or the Velas Valarta Resorts. If you want to stay in Nueva Vallarta, just 15-20 away, the Paradise Village is another 6 star resort, fit for a honeymoon, with a wide, clean beach that is cleaned each morning. I suggest that the people who think the beaches are “dirty” are staying at budget hotels (very risky for an important vacation) and maybe have not visited all that PV has to offer. It is a beautiful resort with more of a Mexican flavor than most other resort towns on the Pacific Coast. Cancun is awesome as well, and of course, the beaches are wonderful. Of all the great hotels there, there are only 3 or 4 that I would recommend. As for Cabo, we don?t go there much anymore. In the past 20 years, it has gone from a sleepy fishing village to an overcrowded party town, lacking many of the public services that they should have put in place as the town grew, had the government not taken all the tourist dollars and sent them to other areas that they wanted to develop. Still, it is a very fun time, but for a honeymoon, I think not. Stick to PV or Cancun. If I can offer any other suggestions of where to stay or what to do, Email me at miller.linda.m@principal.com We go at least once a year to Mexico, and every 5 years to the Caribbean.

Posted by motherhubbard on July 22, 1999

Puerto Vallarta beaches are definitely not as pretty. The sand is not as fine and the water is not particularly clear. Cabo has very nice beaches OUTSIDE of Cabo along the corridor. Cabo itself is like southern Ca. moved south. Kind of disgusting to me. I just returned from Akumal which is absolutely beautiful for sand, water, and snorkelling. But the upshot is that August is the most rainy and humid month on the Yucatan Peninsula. PV will also be fairly rainy but Cabo would still be nice. It is an arid region. If you are looking for party hearty atmosphere you can’t beat PV. Cancun is a mecca for all types of activities. Akumal pales in comparison although you are not far from Playa del Carmen; a much more laid back environment than Cancun. Just remember, no matter where you go, it’s summer and the heat and humidity are killers at many of the mainland resorts.

Posted by Zach Thompson on July 14, 1999

Hey Tim,

Congratulations on your wedding! I have to agree with everyone about Puerto Vallarta’s beaches downtown. They are rocky but generally very clean. There are beaches in the downtown area such as Playa Los Muertos and Playa Camarones, which are nice. Los Muertos is a really nice sandy beach. Mismaloya, south of town, has a pretty beach but the size of the sand grains can be annoying and it reminds me of Margarita Salt; big and scratchy. Many places “around” downtown Puerto Vallarta have some pleasant beaches, some of which not being too crowded. North of PV there is the town of Bucerias, which has the best beach in the whole Bay of Banderas, in my opinion. The sand is fine, creamy, white, and as you’ll see in the picture below, and there isn’t a gob of tourists all the time. Bucerias has many accommodations, many very reasonable. It’s very quaint and the people are very nice. What’s nice is, it’s away from downtown Puerto Vallarta so you can have a peaceful time but yet, you’re not too far away from PV so you can still go into town and enjoy its shopping, restaurants, and other exciting interests. Also, you could just take the bus to Bucerias and see the lovely beach and remember, all beaches in Mexico are public. Check out the picture that I took when I was in Bucerias in the spring of ’98. Tons of palm trees, beautiful water, and quiet sandy beach. Good luck!

Posted by LM on July 14, 1999

The advice posted here is accurate with regards to PV’s beaches. However, for the price of a short water taxi ride from the main pier, you can visit some great beaches like Yelapa, to the south of town. As far as the beaches being polluted; I haven’t experienced this. Even on the main beach in the old part of town it always seemed fairly clean. I suppose that over the real busy times like Christmas and Easter there may be a problem with trash being left around, but it always seems to get picked up. The long time travellers that I know, who, if they must, go to a Mexican resort, invariably pick PV. Manzanillo would also be a good pick.

Posted by Michael Savage on July 14, 1999

After a decade of travelling up and down the beaches of PV, I have to say that they aren’t in the league of some other Mexico beaches.

For quiet beauty, I guess you can’t do much better than Akumal, just south of Playa del Carmen, again, just south of Cancun. Cancun is ritzy 5.00-a-beer tourism, with malls and all.

Cabo’s beaches are usually quiet. Especially in the San Jose del Cabo area, but that’s because it’s so breezy, your skin can get worn off in the wind :>)

PV’s beaches are busy, but if you spend the day and make a trip to Destiladeras, you’ll see that even a major resort like Vallarta can harbour some gems! You’ll often see the statement that “Vallarta is the most “Mexican” of the Pacifica Resorts.” Certainly, it is one of the more relaxed, although it (sadly) has spawned “Hooters” and “Planet Hollywood”.

If you do end up in Vallarta, try spending a day at Mismaloya beach – there are some great little restaurants there (Arturo’s “Ramada”) is one. Pull up a deck chair, and for the price of a few beers, it’s yours for the day. You can walk up to the ruins (now restored) of the set from “Night of the Iguana” and then walk back down for curried fish at Arturo’s – DEEELICIOUS!

All of the resort areas have their own beauties, and I’ve never met a beach I didn’t like, for some reason.

Hopefully, this will be the beginning of your trying them all!

Happy Trails,

Michael

Posted by LR on July 13, 1999

My wife and I are beach people. We have not been to Cabo, but if you are going to stay at your hotel only, then Cancun (except it is the party capital of the Caribbean, and is crowded). There are many scenic, romantic beaches south of Cancun (but flat). The water is incredible. If you go there, don’t miss Casa Cenote, Akumal, Tulum or Cozumel (the eastern shore of which is incredibly beautiful, but isolated and barren). If you like some adventure, charm and scenery, then PV. There are many beautiful tropical set beaches with jungle draped mountains in the background. The Rio Ameca at Nueva Vallarta causes the water to be off color during the rainy season (now). If you are booking a trip, stay on the south side of Vallarta. A few miles north or south of PV there are many romantic, clean, beaches. There are also many nice villages to visit (Mismaloya, Bucerias, Punta Mita, Sayulita, Playa San Francisco, all have various and different beaches). In PV you can experience some of Mexico’s charm. My advice, go to PV, stay away from the tourist traps (El Eden), rent a car, take a taxi, see some sites, eat some fresh seafood in a beachside palapa restaurant, don’t stay in your hotel the whole time (just long enough). Congrats!
P.S. We are going back for a week in August.

Posted by stu gibbs on July 13, 1999

My advice would be to try Manzanillo – fab clean beaches, friendly people and three or four top hotels on the beach to choose from.

Posted by Joseph on July 13, 1999

Recommend you go to Cancun for the white sand beaches and sapphire blue of the waters. Check with your travel agent for packages to Cancun. I prefer PV, but I am not going on a honeymoon when I go to PV. Good luck.

Posted by John Cummings on July 13, 1999

Puerto Vallarta is certainly my favorite of the 3 tourist areas mentioned, but NOT for the beaches. If beaches are what you are after, then Cancun would be first and Cabo San Lucas second. There are some beautiful beaches between La Paz and Cabo San Lucas. Puerto Vallarta’s beaches leave a lot to be desired.

John

The post Puerto Vallarta versus Cabo Beaches appeared first on MexConnect.

Photo Gallery: Bringing our sailboat to the Maya Riviera

This is a story of how my wife, Teresa, and I realized our dream of owning a sailboat here on the Caribbean side of Mexico. Being former coastal Californians with 10 years of sailing experience under our lifejackets and now living on the Caribbean coastline of the Yucatan Peninsula, we wanted a sailboat at our home in Puerto Morelos.

We literally scoured the entire Yucatan Peninsula from Cancun to Chetumal in search of a boat, but found very few that fitted our needs and criteria. The ones we did consider were either very expensive or extremely neglected — and very expensive as well. As we discovered, most of the sailboats in Mexico have been brought into the country by ex-pats, or Mexicans willing to pay import taxes, which can run as high as 30% of the value of the vessel. We now realize why used boats fetch such premium prices in Mexico.

Disappointed but undaunted, we continued our quest. Ah, but there must be thousands of acceptable sailboats in the Miami, Florida area, we thought. Let’s fly to Miami and look around. It was the day after Christmas 1999, when, with determination in our hearts, we were on a flight to Miami.

Our criteria for a used sailboat were: 21-25 feet in length, a retractable keel (for navigating the reef), an older boat with wood trim, no major damage, a price range of between $2500 – $5,000 and, of course, a trailer.

Were we ever surprised! Not only was there not an abundance of used sailboats in Miami but the ones we did look at were either very expensive or had been extremely neglected and were still expensive. Déjà vu.

While I drove the rental car north along the Atlantic coastline from Miami, Teresa diligently scoured every sailboat ad in every “Boats For Sale” publication we had picked up at Mini Marts along the way. By now she had quite a stack of them in her lap. “Oh look, Honey, here’s a sailing school in Stuart, that sells used sailboats,” she said. “Great, let’s check ‘em out,” I replied.

We arrived at Chapman’s School Of Seamanship around 1 PM in a light drizzle. As we learned, Chapman’s was a non-profit organization that raised money for the school by selling used sailboats donated by their previous owners. “Wow, look at all these sailboats,” I exclaimed. There must have been at least 80 vessels for sale. I could hardly contain my excitement. A closer inspection revealed that most of these donated boats had either been very neglected or were over-priced. Here we go again. Then, Terry called out, “This one’s kinda cute.”

She was looking at a Catalina 22, which I knew was a great, well-made boat. Upon closer inspection, we discovered that the boat was not only dry inside (no leaks anywhere!) but all of the cushions, two bags of sails and a Porta-Pottie were all in excellent original condition. The interior was trimmed in teak, as was the companionway leading into the cabin. A closer look at the storage compartments revealed a small propane coffee maker, an anchor, extra ropes, a swim ladder and a small outboard motor!

All the boat needed was a good home and new owners that would give her the TLC she deserved. We sat there for a moment looking into each other’s eyes, mutually knowing without speaking a word that this was THE boat.

With excitement and anticipation, we headed for the school’s office to find out the price and learn the boat’s history. Looking up from an inventory list on her desk, the manager said, “We just got that boat in yesterday; haven’t had a chance to price her yet. How about $1700?” Knowing that a good condition Catalina 22 should sell for somewhere around $5,000, I swallowed hard and replied, “Uh, yes, that sounds like a fair price.” We later learned that the boat had been in the hands the original owner since new, some 20 years ago. What a find!

We had two days left before our return flight to Cancun. We had to arrange for the boat to be prepared for shipping from Florida to the Yucatan, make arrangements with the shipping company, change title and registration, find someone who could modify a power boat trailer to accommodate a sailboat, and shop for odds and ends that we wanted to buy for the boat.

Chapman’s School Of Seamanship was a tremendous help. They sent us over to talk to “Crusty Jack,” an old salt who had lived in the area most of his life and could handle any boating related problems that could arise. We told him we had just bought a sailboat and needed it shipped to Mexico. “Mexico?” he countered. “That’s right and we’ve only got two days to arrange everything,” I replied. “No problem,” he said. Jack towed our new purchase back to his dock, hoisted her out of the estuary and placed her temporarily on the trailer we had found. Terry and I enthusiastically went to the Florida State Department of Motor Vehicles and took care of the title and registration. They were very understanding of our time frame and processed all of the paper work while we waited!

Jack and his helper spent the day power washing the boat’s hull, removing several years of marine growth and building temporary supports on the trailer to accommodate the boat for shipping. Terry and I visited a wonderful store for boat parts and accessories, West Marine, and bought a few trimmings for our new “baby.”

Back in our hotel room, we made a call to the shipping company in Port Everglades. It turned out that they routinely ship to Puerto Morelos and the boat would not be a problem. She would arrive two days after we got back. The Mayan gods must have been on our side.

The next morning we arrived at Jack’s, paid him for all he had done and what he was about to do — transport the boat south to Port Everglades in Fort Lauderdale, for shipping to Mexico, while we caught our plane back to Cancun. We were exhausted, elated and filled with excitement as we returned home to await the arrival of our baby.

We have fond memories of ol’ “Crusty Jack.” You’ve got to have a lot of respect for a man in his seventies who stopped everything he was doing to take on the challenge of fitting a sailboat to an unsuitable trailer and then towing it 120 miles to port for shipping, all in two days. A real hero in our eyes!

The view from our second story verandah affords a wonderful panoramic vista of the Caribbean. Nearly a week had passed since we bought “Bijou” and returned home. I was scanning the horizon of the Caribbean with binoculars when I spotted “The Hybur Trader” from Florida. I yelled, “Terry, here it comes, here it comes!” We headed to the port and waited diligently on the docks as “The Hybur Trader” was securely tied up. The unloading began and we waited patiently until they were able to get to “Bijou”. Most of the cargo on the ship was containerized, out of sight. However, “Bijou”, on her trailer, was strapped down to a platform. We could see her from the dock, much like kids who spot their presents under the tree when they come downstairs on Christmas morning. There I was, a 50-year-old man, jumping wildly up and down with excitement. The crane swung her precariously around 40 feet in the air and lowered her onto a waiting truck for a piggyback ride to the customs holding area.

Our next endeavor was to clear customs and get a use permit. Having FM-3 visas made the job much easier. Customs asked for copies of the Florida title and registration to the boat AND trailer, and copies of our FM-3’s. We asked for a “Permite para solo uso personal” (Permit for personal use only). If you plan on making money giving tourists rides then it’s a whole different soccer game. The entire process took barely an hour, and we were granted a permit valid for 10 years. No fees! Gratis, nada.

The next step was to see the Capitania de Puerto (Port Captain) of Puerto Morelos. Since we would be using our boat in his jurisdiction, it was necessary to register with him. His office wanted the same copies as customs did, plus six photos of the boat and they needed to physically see the boat to verify it’s authenticity. No problema. We were granted a provisional use permit by the Port Captain and I cheerfully bought everyone in the office an ice cold Coke. Salud!

As we were launching “Bijou” from the boat ramp at Los Pelicanos Restaurant, we realized the water depth was too low for the boat to float free from the trailer. We recruited five Mexicans to help me push from the front, while a fishing boat pulled from the stern. Once “Bijou” was launched and tied securely to the dock, we enjoyed a well-deserved cerveza at Los Pelicanos. Now the time had come to take “Bijou” to her mooring located across the street just off the beach from the footpath which leads to our home, Cabanas Puerto Morelos. We had made arrangements with a local fisherman to make a cement mooring the day we returned from Florida so that everything would be ready for “Bijou’s” arrival.

With the wind blowing strong out of the north, I decided it would be best if we motored there. “Bijou” seemed to smile approvingly as we approached the new white buoy that marked the mooring. And so she sits, shining and proud, waiting for the time we take her sailing.

Having our own mooring is special to us. There are several moorings that pepper the beach, but most of them belong to the local fishermen and snorkel guides. There is no public marina in the area, so every boat owner needs to make his own mooring. Recreational boating in this area has not yet reached the proportion of places such as Matzatlan or Puerto Vallarta. Bijou has only been in the water for a month, so we haven’t ventured out very far. We mostly sail 200 to 300 yards offshore and three or four miles north or south. The best time of day for us is late afternoon, as the sun slowly makes its way down over the jungle. Magnificent colors of red and orange fill the sky as we come about and head back.

We have confidence in the system here. You just have to be willing to smile a lot, follow their rules and regulations, buy a few Cokes here and there, and you’ll find you can overcome the obstacles and make some new friends at the same time. So, dream on amigos, dream on. You, too, can have a boat in Mexico.

“What’s that Honey? You want to go sailing?” “OK, I’ll be right there.”

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