Mexican Kitchen

Mexico is the land of fiestas, and never more than during the month of December, when the feasts are so many that they overlap by several days. Starting on December 3, the beginning of the nine-day tribute to the Virgin of Guadalupe, and continuing through until January 6, Three Kings Day, there is non-stop celebration. In addition to Guadalupe’s feast day on December 12, the Mexicans honor the Virgin of Juquila on the 8th and Nuestra Señora de Soledad on the 18th. Besides Christmas itself there are the posadas, Christmas parties which run from December 16 through 24. And let’s not forget the nine days of Hannukah, celebrated by Mexico’s Jewish community, or the Night of the Radishes, a great Oaxacan fiesta held on the 23rd.

The one food that is served at just about every fiesta is the tamal, and las fiestas diciembrinas, the December feasts, are no exception. I have never been to a posada that does not feature at least two kinds of tamales along with ponche navideña and the traditional bueñuelo fritters. Nancy Helman Sneiderman, writing of a Chanukah visit to a beachfront synagogue in Veracruz, tells us that “the feast consisted of tamales, cake, pasta, beans and rice.” On the morning of the feast of the Virgin of Guadalupe, following the all-night bonfires, many of the churches in Cholula distribute tamales to all the mothers with the singing of Las Mañanitas to the Virgin; I remember several happy years living in that town and carrying home my tamales on December 12 and on Mother’s Day.

One wonders why, since they are commonly eaten on an everyday basis, tamales are an essential feast day food, and the answer lies in the sense of ritual that has been part of Mexican life since pre-Hispanic times. Each important celebration, whether a rite of passage through life or a feast honoring one of the gods, had its own distinct type of tamal filling and form, including those decorated with designs of seeds and beans. Tamales of various shapes and flavors were prepared by nearly all the groups of original inhabitants of Mexico.

Spanish priest and chronicler Bernardino de Sahagun observed that the first thing Aztec women did when preparing a festival was to make lots of tamales: tamales with amaranth leaves for the fire god Xiuhtecuhtli, tamales with beans and chiles for the jaguar god Tezcatlipoca, shrimp and chile sauce tamales for the ancient deity Huehueteotl. Besides tamales stuffed with turkey meat, beans and chiles, the Aztecs used what they harvested from the shores of Lake Texcoco, including fish and frogs, to fill tamales. Sahagun tells us that pocket-gopher tamales were “always tasty, savory, of very pleasing odor.” Etiquette dictated that tamales, which were passed around in a basket at banquets, were held in the left hand.

The Maya also produced artistic, elaborate tamales, some rolled out and filled jelly-roll fashion, cut to show the spiral designs thus produced, which can be seen in the banquet scenes depicted on Classic Maya vases. The spinach-like herb called chaya, still very much used in the Mayan regions of Mexico, was one of their alternatives to using corn husks and banana leaves as tamal wrappers. Toasted squash seeds and flowers, meat, fish, fowl, and beans were all used as fillings. Deer meat, especially the heart, was favored for special offerings. Besides being steamed, tamales were roasted on the comal or baked in the pib, or pit oven.

The great variety of tamales has carried over to this day; ethnographers have counted forty two different kinds, including the famous zacahuil prepared by the Huastecan people. This tamal is 3 feet long, weighs about 150 pounds, and requires most of the leaves of a banana tree to wrap it. The zacahuil and the muchipollo of the Yucatan are exceptions to the tamal-making rule in that they are baked either in the ground or in a bread oven rather than being steamed. Other unique tamales are the pastel-colored versions prepared by the Otomi people near San Miguel de Allende and the fresh fish clapiques of the coast, which have been prepared since the time of Moctezuma II.

Although the first tamales were simply made with ground maize and flavored with oils extracted from avocado and sesame plants, the arrival of the Spaniards, and with them various domestic animals including the pig, changed the consistency of tamales forever. Lard is essential to the texture of what we know as tamales today, although vegetable shortening may be used in its place. In either case, the dough is much lighter than that of the pre-Conquest era.

Music, too, is an important ingredient, since Mexican cooks claim that tamales will not turn out light and fluffy unless music is played while they are being made. When we first moved to Cholula, we wondered why the next door neighbor began blasting music in the wee hours on Saturday and Sunday mornings, until we found out that she was a weekend tamal vendor and needed the musical accompaniment.

Whether you choose a sweeping symphony, a rousing march , or good old rock and roll to inspire your tamal-making, it’s more fun with friends. Make lots, because tamales freeze well and can be reheated on a grill or griddle, in the oven, or in a microwave. You might try more than one of the recipes below if the music really gets you going, but in any case, making tamales is almost as much fun as the fiesta itself.

 Recipes:

• Tamales: Basic Tamales
• Tamales Rojos Veracruzanos con Pollo: Veracruz-Style Tamales with Chicken
• Tamales Dulces: Sweet Tamales

The post Los Tamales: Five Hundred Years at the Heart of the Fiesta appeared first on MexConnect.

The white pear flesh, green herbs and red onion give this salsa the colors of the Mexican flag and the Christmas season. Just as tasty as it is visually appealing, Mexican pear salsa goes well with pork and is a nice accompaniment to simple grilled pork chops or a holiday roast.

Ingredients

• 1 ½ pounds firm, ripe pears, peeled, cored and finely chopped
• ½ cup chopped red onion
• 1/3 cup chopped cilantro
• 1-2 jalapeños in escabeche
• 1 tablespoon escabeche (pickling liquid) from the jalapeños
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• Salt to taste

Combine all ingredients. Cover and chill for at least 3 hours before serving. Makes 3 cups.

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In Mexico, the Christmas season is a month-long fiesta, starting with the feast of the Virgin of Guadalupe on December 12th, and continuing through the posadas, Noche Buena and Navidad, right up to the Three Kings Day on January 6th.

During this celebratory month, preparing seasonal dishes is an important part of the festivities, with each occasion having its own specialties. These can be easily adapted to holiday menus everywhere, and a Mexican culinary theme is fun, festive, and versatile. Feature a menu for a particular occasion, such as a posada, or combine elements from each of the menus presented here. In any case, a buffet is more relaxed and informal than a sit-down dinner, especially when entertaining a crowd. Whether you prefer to have guests at brunch or supper, try some of the following ideas and recipes.

A children’s posada party

Posadas — those reenactments of Mary and Joseph’s search for shelter in Bethlehem — are especially suited for children. Once the posada procession, with two children dressed as Mary and Joseph, finally arrives at the home that will give them “shelter,” the focal point is the piñata, filled with candy, fruit and nuts. (Posadas can be fun for adults, too, and my Mexican sister-in-law in Texas has posada parties filled with small gifts for all ages. Once in Oaxaca, a group of us had a piñata of George Bush custom made, and people had great fun whacking at it.)

Even in places where there are no religious processions, a posada theme is great for a children’s holiday party. The piñata can be set up outdoors or in a room in which the furniture has been pushed to the sides. Fill it with miniature candies, nuts, and small gifts, and after the piñata has been broken and the contents gathered up, kids can enjoy refreshments from a table on which sweet tamales, cookies, hot chocolate atole and punch have been set up. The following are some suggestions for a children’s posada party table.

• Chocolate Atole: Champurrado
• Holiday punch: Ponche navideño
• Mexican Christmas cookies: Galletas de navidad
• Candied walnuts: Nueces garapiñados
• Sweet tamales: Tamales dulces

A Christmas Eve supper: Noche Buena

Holiday meals are usually eaten on the eve of the big day, and Christmas is no exception. Most Mexicans have their Christmas dinner on Christmas Eve, or Noche Buena. The religious go to the misa del gallo, or Midnight Mass, with the big meal following. Others start the meal a bit earlier in the evening, but usually not before nine or ten, and continue the feast into the wee hours of the morning.

While the Noche Buena meal is typically a sit-down dinner, the elements of the meal can make a beautiful buffet presentation for any party during the holiday season. And if a large group of family and/or friends is expected, this is a great way to serve the food, especially if not everyone arrives at once. It is less formal than a sit-down dinner and just as enjoyable.

Bacalao, a Spanish style codfish dish which is de rigeur for Noche Buena, is perfect for a buffet, as is the Noche Buena salad. The recipe for stuffed, roasted turkey has been adapted for a buffet, but filled with a traditional Mexican Christmas stuffing. By all means serve the punch from the posada menu, spiked if desired for those who prefer a little Christmas cheer. Sidra, or bubbly apple cider, is also traditional, but any bubbly would probably be much appreciated by guests. Feel free to add any of the nut and cookie recipes from the posada menu. They go especially well with rompope, or “Mexican eggnog.”

• Stuffed roasted turkey roulade: Rollo de pavo relleno
• Codfish with tomatoes, olives and chiles: Bacalao a la vizcaina
• Christmas Eve salad: Ensalada de Noche Buena
• Puebla style eggnog: Rompope

A Christmas brunch: Navidad

After the late Christmas Eve supper comes to an end, it seems nobody is up very early on Christmas morning. A late brunch is a good option for a get together no matter where you live. Mexican almuerzo — or brunch — food is great for entertaining. The jicama and mandarin orange salad incorporates two of the most important seasonal contributions to the Mexican holiday menu, and can be made the night before and refrigerated until serving. This chilaquiles recipe, unlike most, is one that can be assembled ahead and baked, along with the rice dish, while waiting for guests to arrive. This makes for a hassle free menu, hearty enough to be called a true Mexican brunch, and easy enough so that the hosts can get everything done before enjoying a pomegranate champagne cocktail. A selection of sweet rolls from the bakery is good with the cinnamon coffee.

• Pomegranate champagne cocktail: Coctel de champaña y granada
• Jicama and mandarin orange salad: Ensalada xec
• Baked chilaquiles: Chilaquiles al horno
• Green rice casserole with poblanos and cheese: Arroz verde con queso y rajas
• Sweet cinnamon coffee: Café de olla

The post Mexican Christmas menu ideas: Posadas, Noche Buena, Navidad appeared first on MexConnect.

This dressing is good on any green salad when a fairly sweet dressing is desired. It is excellent on a salad of sliced oranges and red onions, garnished with pomegranate seeds.

Ingredients:

• Juice of 2 pomegranates
• 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons raspberry vinegar
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1 ½ teaspoons salt, or to taste
• pepper to taste

Preparation:

Combine all ingredients either by whisking or shaking in a jar. Makes 1 ½ cups.

Link to Source Article

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Walnuts, used famously in the classic chiles en nogada, are grown in central Mexico. This soup is reminiscent of the nogada sauce and looks nice garnished with a sprinkling of chopped fresh parsley and, if available, pomegranate seeds. It is important that a good homemade stock is used.

Ingredients:

• 4 tablespoons butter
• 4 tablespoons flour
• 8 cups good, homemade chicken stock
• 2 ½ cups finely ground walnuts
• 1 ½ cups heavy cream (whipping cream)
• ½ teaspoon nutmeg
• salt to taste
• parsley for garnish
  

In a large saucepan, heat the butter. Add the flour and whisk with a wire whisk to make a roux. When the roux begins to turn golden brown, gradually add the chicken stock, whisking constantly. Add the nutmeg and salt to taste.

Simmer the mixture over low heat, stirring occasionally, another 10 minutes.

Add the nuts and cream and cook, stirring, another 10 minutes. Soup may be thinned with a little broth or milk if desired. Ladle into soup plates and garnish with parsley. Serves 8.

Link to source articles

• Cool and refreshing: Mexican summer soups
• Mexican wedding feasts: La comida de la boda

The post Cream of walnut soup: Crema de nuez appeared first on MexConnect.

This was the perfect accompaniment to the grilled tuna. Use fresh lemongrass, rather than the dried version sold to make tea.

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil such as canola or peanut, or use coconut oil if available
• 1 cup rice, washed until water runs clear and left in a strainer to dry
• 1 6 inch piece fresh lemongrass stalk, bottom part only
• 1 cup water
• 1cup unsweetened coconut milk
• ½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

Heat oil in a heavy saucepan, add rice and stir until rice is coated with oil and slightly golden.

Add all remaining ingredients, stir once, bring to a boil. Cover saucepan tightly, lower heat and simmer until all liquid is absorbed. Serves 4.

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A lightly dressed summer salad, Mexican beet and mango salad is good with grilled chicken or fish. Make sure to use mangos that are not overripe, so that they keep their shape when cubed.

Ingredients

• 4 large beets, steamed or roasted, peeled and cut into ½ inch cubes
• 2 firm, ripe mangos, peeled and cut into ½ inch cubes
• ¼ cup olive oil
• 2 tablespoons good balsamic vinegar
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Mixed greens for serving, including beet greens if possible
• ½ cup queso fresco or mild feta

Place the beets and mangos in a non-reactive bowl. Combine the olive oil and vinegar, adding salt and pepper to taste.

Pour the dressing over the beets and mangos and toss gently.

Line salad plates with the greens, spoon the salad over the greens, and sprinkle the cheese over all. Makes 6 servings.

The post Mexican beet and mango salad: Ensalada de betabel y mango appeared first on MexConnect.

A light dessert or a refreshing palate cleanser, this uses one of the most popular herbs in Mexico, but it also goes well with Thai food, with which Mexican cuisine has several ingredients in common.

Ingredients

• 1 cup fresh spearmint leaves (hierbabuena) washed
• 3 cups water
• ¾ cups sugar
• Juice of ½ fresh lime (or more to taste)

Place mint in a saucepan, cover with water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat, add sugar and stir to dissolve.

Allow to cool, add lime juice and puree in a blender. Strain puree through a fine sieve, pushing to extract as much liquid as possible.

Freeze in an ice cream maker, following manufacturer’s directions. Alternatively, freeze in a freezer tray, removing every 1 ½ hours to stir. After 3 hours, return to the freezer and cover the sorbet. Freeze overnight before serving. Makes 3 cups.

Link to Source Article:

Mexican frozen treats: Helados, nieves and paletas

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This cream of avocado soup uses tequila in place of the traditional sherry. It is a refreshing first course or, served with a salad, a light spring or summer lunch. The ingredients should be well-chilled before the soup is blended.

Ingredients

• 4 medium Haas avocados, cut in half, pits removed, and pulp scooped out
• 3 1/2 cups chicken broth
• 2/3 cup evaporated milk
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped green onion or scallion
• 2 tablespoons tequila
• salt and ground cayenne pepper to taste

Place all ingredients, except salt and cayenne, in a blender or food processor and liquify until smooth, doing this in two batches if necessary.

Taste for seasoning, add salt and cayenne, and pulse briefly.

Serve garnished with sour cream and chopped cilantro if desired.

Serves 4.

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Cumin flavored Mexican huazontle with onions: Huazontle con cebollas y comino

This is a quick and easy side dish, a flavorful accompaniment to simple grilled or roasted meat or poultry. The recipe is adapted from 1,000 Mexican Recipes by Marge Poore.

Ingredients

• 1 pound huazontle bud clusters (the tops, with stems and leaves removed)
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1 large red onion, cut into thin rings
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
• salt and pepper to taste

Cook the huazontle in boiling water until tender. Drain and reserve.

In a large skillet, heat the olive oil and butter, add the onion and sauté until just starting to become transparent. Remove ½ cup of the onion and set aside.

Add the garlic to the skillet, cook until just tender, add the cumin, vinegar, salt and pepper and continue cooking 1-2 minutes longer.

Add the cooked huazontle to the skillet, stirring gently to combine with other ingredients. Place it in a serving dish or plates and top with the reserved onion. Drizzle with additional melted butter if desired. Serves 4 as a side dish.

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