Oaxaca squash vine soup with corn dumplings: Sopa de guias con chochoyones

When we lived in Oaxaca, the vegetable stand on the corner sold all the fresh ingredients for squash vine soup together in a bag. In that part of the country, it is a rainy season staple and has been since before the Conquest. The only addition after the Spaniards arrived was the lard in the […]

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Fish quesadillas: Pescadillas

These could probably be called empanadas, except that the dough is thinner, and if cheese-stuffed masa is called quesadillas, there is some logic to calling fish-stuffed masa pescadillas. Nomenclature aside, these are great for entertaining, because the fish filling can be made a day or two ahead. Ingredients 1 pound white fish, poached and shredded 2 tablespoons corn oil […]

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The whole enchilada: Thrifty variations on a Mexican classic

After several years of reading cookbooks, newspaper food sections, online culinary magazines and endless food blogs, I realize that the enchilada, an iconic Mexican food, is quite often turned into a completely different dish when it leaves the country. While the basic elements are present, the techniques frequently used north of the border turn enchiladas […]

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Known as pimienta gorda, allspice is grown in Puebla, Mexico © Daniel Wheeler, 2011

Fragrant, flavorful allspice: An essential Mexican seasoning

Recently, when a friend here in Cholula went up to Cuetzalan, in the Sierra of Puebla, I asked him to bring back some allspice, which proliferates there on evergreen trees that produce fat, fragrant berries. An indispensable ingredient in several adobos (the seasoning pastes used on meat, fish and fowl) and on many regional pipians (the seed-based […]

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October in Actopan: Mexico’s National Mole Festival

One of the most popular of Mexico’s many fairs and festivals is the Festival del Mole, the National Mole Fair, held each October in the village of San Pedro Actópan, in the Milpa Alta delegation of the Federal District. This part of the D.F. is unlike any other, a mostly indigenous area with landscapes of rustic beauty which include […]

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