BBQ Goat In Oaxaca: The Pomp, Ceremony And Tradition

Some say it’s one of the oldest professions in Oaxaca, yet it garners little if any respect from most of the population notwithstanding the tradition and ceremony that has been its trademark for generations: the chivero, or slayer and preparer of goat, and its barbequing in-ground oven. There are a number of caprine cattle that are cooked […]

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Where Divergent Religious Customs Merge: Death Of An Infant In Oaxaca

Between the birth and the death came a crazy-quilt of only-in-Mexico experiences that resonated with my memories Daniel Pérez González was a beautiful baby. His parents Flor and Jorge thought so; my wife Arlene and I agreed. Few are able to share our certainty, though, because we were among the very few to see him […]

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Temazcal In Oaxaca

Temazcal is akin to the Iroquois sweat lodge. Who would have thought that we could ever have such a first-hand experience during modern times? Curandera Doña Mariana chants while controlling your body with the laying of water over hot rock, as the mysterious meandering of a range of herbal bouquets piques the olfactory sense. Traditional healer, or […]

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Family tradition: five generations of mezcaleros in Matatlan, Oaxaca

Don Isaac recounts awaking at 4 a.m. then walking from his village of Matatlán, with his mule, to Oaxac. He arrived some 14 or 15 hours later… just to buy a large cántaro, the traditional clay vessel then used for making and transporting mezcal. Often he would stop en route, at Santa María el Tule, for a […]

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Travelers’ checks, ATM machines or cash… Oaxaca, Money and Exchange: A Primer

Advice to heed before heading out the door to the airport, questions you’ll have after landing, and money issues that will arise in the course of your vacation You don’t need to take travelers’ checks. ATMs are common, safe and reliable and, while pesos and American cash rule, a VISA card will get you through […]

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