Xalapa-style green mole: Mole verde de Xalapa

Puebla and Oaxaca both have their own distinctive versions of green mole, but none is as laden with fresh vegetables as Xalapa’s mole verde. Although I have prepared several meatless pipians and red moles for my vegetarian children, I always make a batch with poultry or meat for the rest of us. Although most people prefer mole with chicken […]

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Juanote. Photography by Roy Dudley © 2001


Known affectionately as “Juanote” (Big John) to the inhabitants of Xalapa, Juan Herrera Vasquez ( 1924-1989) was a unique personality who was a humble cargador (mover), just as his father was, yet he had a deep passion for classical music. His knowledge of composers and their works were astonishing – as well as his collection of over […]

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Robert Barrett and Richard Nathan: two Englishmen in Xalapa, Veracruz

The first Englishman to set foot in Xalapa was an unfortunate fellow called Robert Barrett. That was back in 1568. Some 432 years later, another Englishman has set foot in this delightful city. But Richard Nathan considers himself a lot more fortunate, even though he arrived here after walking nearly 4,000 miles (6,400 kms). A […]

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Edna Vite photograph

Labor of love: the work of Mexican photographer Edna Vite

Examining the photographs of Edna Vite is much like peering into the very depths of her heart. As Vite herself explains, the photographic artwork that she creates is a declaration of her love. “That is what I want to express – mi amor,” she says, explaining that it is something that she is offering up to […]

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