Passenger Train (Wikipedia)

Railroad Ride Through the Jungle Fifty Years Ago

Who would have dreamed a train from hell could slice through pristine jungle for two days? We’d have gotten off, escaped, even tried to walk out, except for two problems. We didn’t know where we were, and most of the Mexicans spoke Indian languages, not Spanish. The preceding weeks of restful, carefree travel hadn’t prepared […]

Continue Reading
Thatch roof shelters are the perfect pace to socialize at Quinta Alicia Trailer Park on the Emerald Coast of Veracruz. © William B. Kaliher, 2010

Wild Bill discovers Mexico’s Costa Esmeralda — the Emerald Coast of Veracruz

Wild Bill is a seventy-six year-old expatriate enjoying his motor home and life in relative seclusion at Quinta Alicia Trailer Park on the palm covered coast of Costa Esmeralda, Mexico. Retired from both the military and a career in aviation management, Bill is a widower with five grown children. We sat at a concrete picnic […]

Continue Reading
Waiting for Los Abuelos restuarant to open, its waiters befriend the dog. The restaurant in Tecolutla, Mexico, is a 1950s-style hamburger hut. © William B. Kaliher, 2010

Retirement in Paradise: a ’50s burger drive-in on Mexico’s Emerald Coast

Retiring in Mexico means different things for different people. But an American couple in tiny Tecolutla on Mexico’s Emerald Coast have forged a unique and fulfilling lifestyle by taking the road less traveled. I’d been through the area many times before learning of this unlisted, unadvertised restaurant. I’ve enjoyed it over the four years since and hope […]

Continue Reading
Set inside a cavern, the wine bar at La Osteria in Catemaco combines fine wines with fine and authentic Italian food off the beaten tourist track in Mexico. © William B. Kaliher, 2010

Catemaco, Mexico: home to an eclectic group of international expats

The producer of Medicine Man, starring Sean Connery, found Los Tuxtlas, as did Mel Gibson when he filmed Apocalypto. Being the home of the mysterious Olmec civilization, which predated the Mayans, makes it the perfect base for Mexico’s witches and medicine men who still produce curative powders and drinks from native plants based on ancient lore. Beyond historical sites, […]

Continue Reading
A German cigar produced in Mexico: Puros Sihuapan

A German cigar produced in Mexico: Puros Sihuapan

Still cool, in the early tropical morning, I pulled to the curve to savor a coffee at the Fractal to enjoy the early morning activities on the malecón along Laguna Catemaco. The Fractal had been an accidental discovery, but I doubted many tourists worldwide had a better view or more satisfying setting for a morning brew. Entering […]

Continue Reading
Sotol is aged up to two years in wooden barrels © William Kaliher, 2011

Sotol: another drink from the New World’s oldest wine producing region in Mexico

Indian on the high desert: “When poor Mexicans have no money for beer or liquor they say, ‘There is always sotol.’” Driving to the Hacienda de Perote Reaching the oldest existing winery and vineyards in the New World, dating from 1597, and Antigua Hacienda de Perote, among other fine hotels, is fairly simple for any […]

Continue Reading
Fine Mexican cigars are found in a variety of boxes — what's your favorite? © William B. Kaliher, 2012

Better than a Cuban cigar: Mexico’s Santa Clara Puros

Puros Santa Clara number among the world’s finest cigars. In fact, these fine Mexico cigars rival — and surpass — Cuban cigars in flavor and quality. Many articles cover Mexican tobacco, hand-rolled cigars and the internationally famous owners and growers of the product. But to fully appreciate Puros Santa Clara, its owner and founder Señor […]

Continue Reading
Catemaco biker and popsicle maker, Alex © William B. Kaliher, 2014

Mexican motorcyclists and popsicles in Catemaco

I stepped to the front of the restaurant, near the screen, and turned around. From the darkened room, the worst motorcycle gang in southern Mexico stared back. Then I noticed these rough looking, leather-clad and tattooed hombres were enjoying paletas — Mexico’s fresh fruit popsicles. What one can learn about a product as — well as oneself […]

Continue Reading