Photo Gallery: Tingambato, Michoacán

Descending from the mountains, the original (non-toll) Pátzcuaro-Uruapan highway enters avocado-growing country at Tingambato. South of the present-day village of Tingambato is the major archaeological site of Tinganio, one of the few sites in Western Mexico where there are genuine pyramids.

The site was excavated in 1978 and 1979 by one of Mexico’s top archaeologists, Román Piña Chan. It had already been looted by treasure hunters who, however, missed one of Western Mexico’s greatest discoveries—an intact tomb full of ceramic offerings and bones.

Piña Chan found that construction at the site could be divided into two periods. During the first, between AD450 and 600, the ceremonial center took shape. This included an eight meter high eastern pyramid of six superimposed levels and a corresponding western pyramid, partially destroyed by presumed looters. Only the eastern pyramid has so far been restored. Both pyramids have earth cores.

From AD600 to 900 came a change of style to talud y tablero, similar to the Teotihuacan architectural style, named after the pyramids outside Mexico City. This style is evident in both the stairway from the main plaza, with its cruciform altar, to the civil area, below which is the tomb, as well as in the ball court. The ball game was an important ritual, of great spiritual significance, for many Mesoamerican peoples. The object of the game seems to have been to propel, using hips and back, a hard rubber or stone ball through a high stone hoop. This ball court is one of the very few known in Western Mexico, the only region of the country where modern versions of the game are still played.

The most sensational discovery in the investigations of Tinganio came on 8 March 1979 when the unlooted tomb was found. Its excavation was dangerous since its roof was in imminent danger of collapse and only one person could work in it at a time. Many bones were recovered but, surprisingly, only one complete skeleton, of a person who had been seated by the entrance. Among the many partial skeletons in the tomb were 32 skulls representing all ages and both sexes.

Some of the material had previously been buried elsewhere and had been disinterred for reburial here. Perhaps some important person died and the opportunity was taken to rebury his family or workers? Or maybe the extra skulls were the victims of sacrifices? The mountain of ceramic and other artifacts in the tomb included Pacific Ocean seashells (clear evidence of long-distance trade), snails, small full-body figurines and musical instruments made from shells.

Archaeologists received a further surprise in 2011 with the discovery of a second intact tomb, presumed to be that of a high-ranking official. Along with his remains were more than 19,000 green stone and shell beads, further evidence of contacts with coastal communities.

Tinganio’s position—between the tierra templada (temperate zone) and tierra caliente (tropical zone)—made it a natural trading/marketing center, where the produce of the higher areas such as maize and beans, could be exchanged for that of the lowlands such as cacao beans and tropical fruits.

This text is a lightly-edited excerpt from Tony Burton’s Western Mexico: A Traveler’s Treasury (4th edition), used with permission of the author.

Gallery 251 – Tingambato, Michoacán. © Rick Meyer  2006

Published or Updated on: January 1, 2006 by Rick Meyer © 2006

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Photo Gallery: The pyramids of Teotihuacan - a photo gallery

Teotihuacan (pronounced teh-oh-tee-wah-KAHN or teh-oh-tee-WAH-kan — experts differ on which is correct) is an archaeological site some 50 kilometers north of downtown Mexico City but still in the Valle de Mexico (the bowl surrounded by mountains in which Mexico City is on the southwest side). To get here go to the northern bus station from the metro station called Autobuses del Norte and take a bus to the Piramides. I was very surprised to be rolling through green farming country in the Valley of Mexico just north of the Mexico City. Air quality was surprisingly good. It was cloudy the morning I was here, but it started to clear around noon. The area is set on either side of the 2-kilometer long highway — Calzada de los Muertos (causeway of the dead) that runs north-south for the entire length of the complex. The pyramid of the sun was the first major structure built around 150 AD over a sacred cave just to the east of the causeway. The rest of the city was built to the west of the causeway between 250 and 600 AD. The area is nicely divided into the pyramids of the sun, the moon, and the temple of the feathered serpent, Quetzalcoatl, which was believed to serve also as an administrative center. Teotihuacan remains an archaeological mystery since the language is still unknown as well as the origin and the disposition of the inhabitants.

23 pictures taken in May 2001

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Pictures of Tepoztlan, Mexico (39 images)

Tepoztlan reputed to be the birthplace of deified Quetzalcoatl lies about 80 km southeast of Mexico City and about 30 km northeast of Cuernavaca. The Ex-Convento Dominico de la Navidad and Piramide Tepozteco are fairly well touristed here. While I was there the zocalo was being upgraded. The colorful tented restaurant/market area between the zocalo and church is an experience not to be missed.

Long distance buses from Cuernavaca (bound for Cuautla) drop you off at the freeway exit, and from there either take a taxi or walk to the city bus stop for a ride to the zocalo.

This page attempts to convey the athletic adventure up to the Aztec Piramide Tepozteco which lies a full 400 vertical meters (1/4 mile) above the town. The ascent took me a little over an hour between 9 & 10 in the morning to beat the heat. A few athletes in training (running) and local health conscious (walking fast) joined me at this hour. I was early at the top (approx 10 am), but in 15 min the caretaker came down (!) to unlock from his cliff home carrying a block of ice. (Pictures taken April 28, 2004)

• Map of Tepoztlan

Gallery 260: Tepoztlan, Morelos.

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Photo Gallery: Pátzcuaro, Michocán (15 photos)

Photo Gallery: Plaza Bocanegra, Pátzcuaro, Michocán (14 photos)

Photo Gallery: Plaza Vasco de Quiroga, Pátzcuaro, Michocán (5 photos)

Photo Gallery: El Estribo, Pátzcuaro, Michocán (10 photos)

Photo Gallery: Lake Pátzcuaro - Lago de Pátzcuaro (10 photos)

Photo Gallery: Parade, Pátzcuaro, Michoacán (5 photos)

When you first arrive in Pátzcuaro you notice that there are large, mature pine trees everywhere with their bases painted white presumably for the benefit of night traffic. This immediately sets the mood for the town with calming and cooling effect. Among Pátzcuaro advantages are:

• It is a relatively small city of about 40,000 people.
• There is a large lake of the same name with islands you can boat to.
• At 7200 feet altitude it is delightfully cool here even walking in the sun.
• There is not one but two plazas with sidewalk restaurants in the portals.
• It has some of the best preserved colonial architecture in all of Mexico.
• There are a multitude of day trips you can take to archaeological, craft producing, and other leisure locations.
• Tourism has not overtaken things and prices are reasonable.

The Plaza Bocanegra on this and the next two pages is one of the two major plazas in the city (the other being Plaza Quiroga). It is a great photo opportunity in motion. The buses to local destinations stop here. (There is also a station for longer distances about a mile away.)

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Photo Gallery: Cuernavaca, Mexico (39 images)

Palacio de Cortes (Museum), Cuernavaca, Mexico (9 images)

Jardín de Borda (Park), Cuernavaca, Mexico (14 images)

Pyramids, Cuernavaca, Mexico (15 images)

Salto de San Antón, Cuernavaca, Mexico (12 images)

Cuernavaca is one of the most interesting cities in Mexico. The dozens of pictures here only scratches the surface of attractions. Commanding the high ground above an agriculturally productive state and on an important land route the location has been prized since Aztec times. Cortes and his family made a base here after the conquest due in part to the excellent year round climate. Today the city owes its rapid development to those seeking escape from the crime, traffic, and smog of nearby (about 80 km) Mexico City. Frequent buses from Terminal Sur and directly from the Mexico City airport serve Cuernavaca. (Pictures taken April  2004)

Gallery 257 – Cuernavaca, Morelos © Rick Meyer 2006

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The State of Tlaxcala is the smallest in Mexico.

• Map of Tlazcala
• Tlaxcala (city), the state capital

Tlaxcala, whose capital city is also called Tlaxcala, is a smallest state in the country of Mexico.

The Tlaxcaltecas were never conquered by the Aztecs. After a fierce battle against Cortes’ army, they decided to join forces with Cortes to conquer their arch enemy. Xicohtencatl (the younger) whose name appears everywhere (especially in Tlaxcala City) was a chief who did not agree with the alliance and tried on several occasions to rouse his people against the Spanish.

The Tlaxcaltecas were promised and would have gained special prominence in Mexico for their collaboration, but the European diseases decimated the population.

Since then Tlaxcala has been a bit of a backwater although situated just 120 km east of Mexico City and 30 km north of Puebla. Since it receives little foreign tourist traffic (especially outside Tlaxcala City) it is an excellent place to explore the enigmatic ‘real’ Mexico. (Pictures taken May 2004)

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Pictures of Tlaxcala, Mexico (16 images)

The city of Tlaxcala (pronounced tlas-kala) is the capital of the State of Tlaxcala. Its small town atmosphere belies a listed population of 69,000. Indeed it is a sharp contrast to the activity of Puebla just 30 km south. The city has a population of about 70,000 and is at 7,382 ft. asl.  (Pictures taken May 2, 2004)

• Map of Tlazcala

Tlaxcala is one of the oldest cities in the country; in 1535, Carlos V, King of Spain, granted it a coat-of-arms and this was the first place where a bishopric was founded. The plan of this city differs from that of other colonial cities in that its main church was not built next to the Government Palace, nor even on the main square. Phillip II awarded it the title of “most noble and most loyal city of  Tlaxcala”, in 1563.

Tlaxcala is one of “The Fifteen Exceptional Cities of Mexico”, a selection which we made a few years ago to include those Mexican cities which have unique characteristics.

Its Plaza de la Constitución de 1812 (that of the Spanish Monarchy) is one of the most beautiful plazas in the republic; it is surrounded by arcades with colonial buildings, painted in earthy colors: orange, brick, dark yellow, light brown and sepia. The resulting architecture is amazingly attractive and harmonious. Other points of interest in this extraordinary city are: the Capilla Real de Indios, now the Palace of Justice, built in 1528 in honor of the Indigenous and Spanish nobility; the Plaza Xicoténcatl, surrounded by several good restaurants and from where a walkway begins up to the Ex-Convento de San Francisco where you will find the Regional Museum, one of the most interesting in México, since it houses a pillory where the conquistadors bombarded the Indians in order to subdue them, a library and a newspaper collection.

The Ex-Convento de San Francisco founded in 1524, with a marked Moorish influence in its Spanish architecture, is now the Cathedral of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción (Our Lady of the Assumption). This is considered one of the earliest and most beautiful buildings constructed in New Spain. In the interior of this convent, the roof is possibly the most distinguished architectural element of the entire building: a superb combination of carved and painted wood, also Moorish in style. Hernán Cortés ordered various Catholic rituals to be observed here, including the baptism of Xiconténcatl, before he departed from this city to continue the Conquest.

The Bull Ring (Plaza de Toros) which has the peculiarity, unlike any other in the country, of having the upper part of its bleachers formed by the tower of the ex-convent of San Francisco, which is only a few paces further away, is another sight which is a must-see before leaving Tlaxcala. Other captivating attractions which you shouldn’t miss are the City Hall (Casa del Ayuntamiento), in the Portal Hidalgo, which was originally a private dwelling, the Alhóndiga, joined to it, which, with its lovely sixteenth century portico decorated with floral designs, served as the warehouse for storing maize and wheat paid in tribute, and is now the Traffic and Public Security Department, and the Xicoténcatl Theater, neoclassic in style with a grey sandstone facade and wrought-iron lamps.

Ocotlán, a well-known district of the city, located a few minutes from the Plaza of the Constitution (Plaza de la Constitución) on a hill to the east. Standing majestically here is the extremely famous Basílica y Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Ocotlán. The original structure, in 1541, was modest. The actual church, dating from 1670, is rightly considered, given its wonderful architecture, one of the religious gems of all Mexico. Its richly decorated facade, of plaster and pieces of porcelain is its most outstanding feature, causing the onlooker to feel that maybe it is made of a delicious sugar-icing, which with its towers and ample atrium serves to identify immediately the admirable and exceptional classic Tlaxcaltecan style, giving us an emotional religious high. On seeing the interior, with its almost overwhelming, multicolored and resplendent ornamentation, especially that of the Alcove (camarín) of the Virgin, this marvelous sensation is doubled. These splendid examples of Mexican churrigueresque art were the work of Indian artist Francisco Miguel Tlayoltehuanitzin during 25 years of tremendous dedication. The paintings by two famous artists of the colonial period, Cristóbal de Villalpando and Juan de Villalobos, magnificent artistic creations, serve to further heighten our amazement on a visit here.

Each year, Ocotlán celebrates the fiesta of its Virgin the first and third Wednesday in May.

The Palacio de la Cultura, a beautiful late neoclassic building, of 1939, where classes of other scholastic levels were given for years, is now the Institute of Higher Studies (Instituto de Estudios Superiores). Every two weeks it publishes a listing of the main cultural events taking place in the state. The art nouveau-style Juárez Palace is in a tone typical of this city. Until 1982 it was the Legislative Palace and since 1987, the Tourism Secretariat (Secretaría de Turismo). It is located behind the Government Palace (1545) which houses an impressive work of art which reproduces, with all the feeling and color of the ancient codices, historical scenes depicting the origins and struggles of the legendary Tlaxcalteca people, painted by Tlaxcala native Desiderio Hernández Xochitiotzin, a contemporary of the masters Diego Rivera and Rufino Tamayo.

Besides the eighteenth century parish church of San José, a fine example of Tlaxcaltecan baroque, constructed on the grounds of what was once a Marian hermitage of the sixteenth century, it is worth visiting the Tlaxcala Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions, located by the side of the canal down which the River Zahuapan flows. The museum has revolutionized the method of operating a handcraft museum; apart from having 3,000 objects on display, the artisans themselves, besides making their creations for sale right on the spot, also act as the guides, explaining this so distinctively Mexican historical and cultural world. They have collected books and handcrafts from all over the world. Visit here and don’t forget to sample the delicious regional food served in its small fonda or restaurant.

Other important sights include the Juárez Plaza and the Exhibition Center, where the state’s annual fair is held. The most important street market (tianguis) in the state, in terms of the variety of items on sale, is held in the city every Saturday. The incomparable character of this lovely city doesn’t only create a pleasing impact on the eye as you walk its streets but also from the slopes above where you can also appreciate the traditions and culture it still preserves. One curious thing is the system of traffic signs which are not only just as easily read as usual but are designed as if they were made of perforated blue paper, a detail which seems to us to be so singularly ingenious it would be worth copying in every city in the country.

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Pictures of Uruapan, Mexico

If you are coming from Patzcuaro, a city of about 40,000, when you arrive in Uruapan you will find that this city of over 200,000 is pretty much like a circus. If you come from stately and subdued Morelia, you will find it vibrant and much more active. It is the hub of the agricultural dynamo of Michoacan and reflects this in the hustling, bustling, smiling faces of its denizens.

Activity revolves around the central plaza that claims three full blocks in the center of the city which really becomes active on the weekends when you are likely to find two bands entertaining the throngs and not an empty spot on the numerous public benches.

It is a great place to observe capitalism in action since it seems everyone has pesos to placate their (and especially their children’s) whims. Thus Uruapan becomes about as inexpensive as you will find a nice place in all of Mexico.

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Rick Meyer

Pictures of Paricutin Volcano, Mexico

Paricutin is a famous volcano that popped up in a farmer’s field in 1943 and continued to grow until 1952 to form a large cinder cone. Collateral flowing lava covered the valley and inundated adjacent villages of San Salvador and San Juan. The flow was slow enough so no one was hurt but a lot of property was destroyed. The trip to the summit of the volcano has become a popular daytrip from Uruapan.

The town that services this attraction way up on the main road is called Angahuan. This Purepecha village has a very different feel than other Mexican towns. Here horses are as numerous as cars. When I arrived shortly after 8 AM on a Saturday, women were sweeping the cobblestone streets with home-made stick brooms.

Published or Updated on: January 1, 2006 by Rick Meyer © 2006

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Pictures of Santa Clara, Mexico

Santa Clara is the town that produces copperware and copper crafts of all kinds. For 5 pesos from the Patzcuaro bus station it is an easy part of the day trip. There are many shops that sell copper products and if you walk to the rear you can watch items being manufactured. Although you have to go uphill from Patzcuaro, it seems to be considerably warmer here probably because there are no trees. Santa Clara has two one way streets that make up the arteries in and out of town.

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