The creative blending of diverse ingredients is the hallmark of Mexican cooking, and in the state of Puebla it is a passion. Everywhere there is talk of food. People give detailed accounts of what they’ve just eaten, plan to eat later, or what was served at the most recent fiesta. Their enthusiasm for the subject is […]
Continue ReadingWhat food was considered so important to the diet of Mexico’s pre-Hispanic population that it was fashioned into images of the gods and eaten as communion? What food was outlawed during the conquest of Mexico, and the people of New Spain forbidden to cultivate or consume? And finally, Chicken in Mexican amaranth sauce: Pollo en amaranto […]
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It seems that so often when I cook something savory, I automatically reach for an onion. Even when undecided about what else might go in a dish, there is a good chance that it will call for some form of Allium cepa, or cultivated onion. With the exception of desserts (and even here, I’ve recently read about […]
Continue ReadingTiny Tlaxcala may be Mexico’s smallest state but it is one of the most quintessentially Mexican in its traditions, especially in the realm of cuisine. The same artistic flair with which the people of this area painted their ancient temple murals was applied to the creation of their regional dishes. Since pre-Colombian times, Tlaxcaltecos have used a […]
Continue ReadingThe state of Zacatecas, in the northwestern part of the central Mexican plateau, has been culturally significant since pre-Hispanic times, when it was one of the few holdouts not conquered by the Aztecs. The people of this area, which was part of the western Mexican region called La Gran Chichimeca by the Spaniards, remained autonomous […]
Continue ReadingI first met Juana Perez when she came to work in our house in Cholula. Born and raised in the surrounding countryside, Juana was a fount of local folklore, insight and wisdom. She was never happier than when called upon to give a lesson or two in the kitchen. I would let her take over […]
Continue ReadingA mole is a stew which incorprates ground chiles, seeds, and sometimes nuts. The basis of a mole verde is the tomate verde, called a “tomatillo” north of the border. In Mexico, it is the opinion of many cooks that the smaller the tomate verde, the tastier. Sometimes called tomate de cascara, they must be removed from their sticky husk before cooking. Their slightly […]
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The name of this dish is derived from the Spanish word jocoque, which is sometimes translated as buttermilk, but is really a type of thick yogurt of Middle Eastern origin. In the city of Puebla, with its large Lebanese population, jocoque is sold in most supermarkets, but in rural areas it is homemade and truly delicious. If you can’t […]
Continue ReadingThis very typical regional sweet, resembling milk fudge, is sold all over Zacatecas. It should be made several hours or a day ahead and covered with plastic wrap. Ingredients: 1 quart whole milk ½ pound of sugar 2-inch piece cinnamon stick obleas (see NOTE below) Preparation: Place the milk, sugar and cinnamon in a saucepan over […]
Continue ReadingThis easy recipe is one of the few instances where poblanos are used without having to be roasted and peeled. The sauce can be made ahead of time and the dish assembled quickly before serving. It can be made in larger quantities, keeping the proportions the same, making it ideal for big parties. The sauce is also […]
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