Viñedos Aztecas © 2021 Jane Simon Ammeson

Sampling fine wines on the Querétaro Wine Trail

In a land of smokey mezcals, rompopes, single-distilled raicillas, cervezas, tequilas, and Kahlua—that thick, sweet coffee liqueur made in Veracruz whose name in Nahuatl means the house of the Acolhua people—wine would seem to scarcely merit a mention. But in the 30 miles stretching between San Juan del Río and Bernal, known as the Querétaro […]

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Photo © Bill Begalke 2000

The sky cities of Queretaro

The Saturday movie-matinee feature of pre-television history introduced my entire generation to the mystery and adventure of lost cities lurking in the dank depths of the world’s remote jungles. Great white hunters slashed their way with machetes through vine-infested rain forests seeking the treasures of civilizations long gone from the earth. In the third reel […]

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Craftspeople show off their work in the market in Tequisquiapan, Queretaro. These colorful candles are crafted by hand. © Daniel Wheeler, 2009

Tequisquiapan: provincial Mexican charm in Queretaro

Only a two-hour drive from Mexico City, Tequisquiapan is the second most important tourist destination in Querétaro. Although it comes to life on weekends, it retains the charm of a Mexico’s provincial towns. Pleasant hotels and restaurants abound. There are trails for mountain biking. Underground rivers flow to the surface in thermal springs that can […]

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An arched walkway surrounds the courtyard of San Sebastián Mártir Church in Bernal, Querétaro. In the center of the atrium stands a beautiful cross of carved quarry stone. © Jane Ammeson 2009

The magic of Bernal, Queretaro: wine, opals and historic charm

Sometimes in the evenings, after the sun has set behind the monolith that towers over the small village of San Sebastián Bernal, ánimas, or restless souls who sleep in the small graveyard near the old chapel, rise up and move silently through the quiet streets. The ánimas mean no harm. They are just continuing their daily round – what […]

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The main plaza and church of Tequisquiapan, a colonial escape-hatch for upper class Mexico City residents. It serves as a weekend retreat from the chaos of the capital.

Tequisquiapan, Queretaro: A delightful spa town

This article describes “a delightful little spa town too few foreign travelers have discovered”, to quote the 1979 edition of Fodor’s Guide to Mexico. Astonishingly, this description is as appropriate today as it was then. Imagine, if you will, the following: a small town, only two hours by car from Mexico City, with winding cobblestone […]

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