At ten in the morning the day was already hot enough to dry the tears on my face as I walked into San Juan Cosala to attend little Santiago's funeral. His teacher and his six-year-old school friends fi... read more

There is a sense of permanence in so much change. "Travel is like peeling an onion, at least one layer will make you cry." I don't recall who wrote that line, but it holds true. My trek started in th... read more