I’m puzzled as to why Xalapa hasn’t become more of a permanent residence for Americans and Canadians. Of the six cities my wife and I visited – Morelia, Cholula, Puebla, Xalapa, Vera Cruz and Queretero – Xalapa is for us the hands-down winner. read more

The 4th of July exploded on November 20th in Mata Ortíz in 1992. The cave-black night near the bridge over Río Palanganas was shot with a kaleidoscope of color and a cacophony of noise, thanks to Jim... read more

Originally from Boulder, Colorado, I have lived in Xalapa, Veracruz, for the last 27 years. Xalapa (hah-LAH-pah) is truly the place of my dreams. Nestled in lush coffee growing hills, with a micro clim... read more

The only thing more Mexican than tequila is the mariachi and it seems a shame to have one without the other. Mariachi goes beyond music, it is the sum of a cultural revolution expressed through a group of musicians, dressed in popular clothing (most recently charro suits) which encompasses the essence of Mexico and its people. It is something cultural, spiritual and traditional that is unique to this country, an experience not to be missed. read more

The graceful 18th century Parroquia de San Andrés, is not only Ajijic's chief landmark, but also the hub around which village life revolves. It is the focal point for those important milestones that b... read more

Immersed in the history of art and literature, weaved into the superstitions of the collective consciousness, and illumined by the silver screens of cinema, the Wild Man paradoxically basks in the ligh... read more

There are many positive things about the US and her people. Having traveled widely, including Communist countries, I have seen what can happen when there is neither freedom nor even the ability to have... read more

Juan Mata Ortíz is a small village of potters, farmers and cowboys in Northern Chihuahua. About 30 years ago, an unschooled artistic genius, Juan Quezada, taught himself how to make earthenware jars i... read more

The Sunday Mexican fiesta at Guadalajara's Camino Real promised cockfighting. I should have expected the "cockfight" would amount to a quick display of two cheerfully bored roosters who could have... read more

From romance to religion, to crimes of passion and crimes of the heart, masks have intrigued, beguiled, and fascinated us from pre-historic cave dwellers to the present. Although masks are found in vi... read more

Five years ago, I visited the Mexican sea-side resort of San Patricio (Melaque), Jalisco. I arrived with my family and small trailer to join an amiable colony of recreation vehicle campers at the free ... read more

If you are going to drive much in Mexico, you need to become at peace with the way Mexican mechanics work. In the old days (1970's and 80's) the smart driver touring Mexico would take a VW and have no... read more

"...So I called the damned cable company and set 'em straight. I mean, how are my kids supposed to survive without cartoons? And how the hell am I supposed to get by without being able to watch wrestli... read more

I'm sitting behind a small desk in the English department of a Ciudad Juárez politécnico -- a sort of combination senior vocational high school cum junior college -- across the Rio Grande from... read more

Chicho gently took my hands in his, leaned in close and locked in on my eyes with a soul-penetrating gaze. "¡Qué bonitos ojos tienes, güerita!" he whispered huskily. Geez, I wondered to myse... read more

Juan Mata Ortíz is a small village of potters, farmers and cowboys in Northern Chihuahua. About 30 years ago, an unschooled artistic genius, Juan Quezada, taught himself how to make ollas, earthe... read more

Secreted behind a thick adobe wall that runs along Calle Ocampo, Ajijic's main thoroughfare, lies doña Carlota's patio. I cherish this tiny, private paradise for to me its warmth and simplicity repres... read more

The Monte de Piedad, or National Pawnshop, bears little resemblance to the usual perception of the tawdry pawnshop, bordering the bail bondsman's office in a not-so-savory part of town, patronized by t... read more

Juan Mata Ortíz is a small village of potters, farmers and cowboys in Northern Chihuahua. About 30 years ago, an unschooled artistic genius, Juan Quezada, taught himself how to make earthenware jars i... read more

Doing business in Mexico is very different than in Canada and the US. The values, social practices, managerial methods, and belief systems of the Mexican worker and Mexican manager are different. They ... read more

Juan Mata Ortíz is a small village of potters, farmers and cowboys in Northern Chihuahua. About 30 years ago, an unschooled artistic genius, Juan Quezada, taught himself how to make earthenware jars i... read more

It's a brisk, moonless night. At the edge of the Ajijic plaza, an anxious group of villagers huddle shoulder to shoulder, casting expectant glances towards the star-studded sky. A sudden barrage of whistling, sputtering explosives rents the night air. The crowd takes a collective lunge backwards, letting out a gasp of wondrous surprise. A brilliant flash of multi-colored lights illuminates the mass of upturned faces. read more

November is a festive month here in Ajijic, beginning with the celebrations of All Saints Day and Day of the Dead, and ending with the feast of the village's patron, San Andrés. Invariably the most l... read more

The recent demise of one of my dearest friends has made me reflect on how my experiences in Mexico have not only enriched my life, but also taught me to better cope with death. I am deeply grateful to ... read more

Every Friday night around six in the evening at Cielito Lindo in South El Monte, California, a large crowd begins to gather. The same thing occurs 1,400 miles away, at El Jalisco Bar in Austin, Texas. What brings crowds to these and hundreds of other restaurants like them across the country? Some say it's the latest margarita happy hour or the growing popularity of Mexican food that packs them in. But a survey of customers reveals that it's the appearance of local Mexican music sensations and an appreciation of the sounds of four or more violins, at least two guitars, a deep-voiced guitarron, a vihuela, and, yes, trumpets. Mariachi music is the sound that speaks to your emotions. read more