Learning the ropes in Mata Ortiz
Juan Mata Ortíz is a small village of potters, farmers and cowboys in Northern Chihuahua. About 30 years ago, an unschooled artistic genius, Juan Quezada, taught himself how to make earthenware jars i...
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Cockfighting in Mexico: Chicken soup for the soul
The Sunday Mexican fiesta at Guadalajara's Camino Real promised cockfighting. I should have expected the "cockfight" would amount to a quick display of two cheerfully bored roosters who could have...
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Masks of Mexico - Mascaras de Mexico
From romance to religion, to crimes of passion and crimes of the heart, masks have intrigued, beguiled, and fascinated us from pre-historic cave dwellers to the present.
Although masks are found in vi...
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San Patricio Melaque revisited
Five years ago, I visited the Mexican sea-side resort of San Patricio (Melaque), Jalisco. I arrived with my family and small trailer to join an amiable colony of recreation vehicle campers at the free ...
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Mechanics in Mexico
If you are going to drive much in Mexico, you need to become at peace with the way Mexican mechanics work.
In the old days (1970's and 80's) the smart driver touring Mexico would take a VW and have no...
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The Ugly American
"...So I called the damned cable company and set 'em straight. I mean, how are my kids supposed to survive without cartoons? And how the hell am I supposed to get by without being able to watch wrestli...
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After all, This Is Mexico
I'm sitting behind a small desk in the English department of a Ciudad Juárez politécnico -- a sort of combination senior vocational high school cum junior college -- across the Rio Grande from...
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Huellas . . . De Mis Amores
Chicho gently took my hands in his, leaned in close and locked in on my eyes with a soul-penetrating gaze. "¡Qué bonitos ojos tienes, güerita!" he whispered huskily.
Geez, I wondered to myse...
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Leonel Lopez: A Mata Ortiz storyteller on pottery
Juan Mata Ortíz is a small village of potters, farmers and cowboys in Northern Chihuahua. About 30 years ago, an unschooled artistic genius, Juan Quezada, taught himself how to make ollas, earthe...
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Huellas ...Dona Carlota
Secreted behind a thick adobe wall that runs along Calle Ocampo, Ajijic's main thoroughfare, lies doña Carlota's patio. I cherish this tiny, private paradise for to me its warmth and simplicity repres...
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Mexico's Monte de Piedad - more than household finance
The Monte de Piedad, or National Pawnshop, bears little resemblance to the usual perception of the tawdry pawnshop, bordering the bail bondsman's office in a not-so-savory part of town, patronized by t...
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Armando
Juan Mata Ortíz is a small village of potters, farmers and cowboys in Northern Chihuahua. About 30 years ago, an unschooled artistic genius, Juan Quezada, taught himself how to make earthenware jars i...
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Comparing management differences in Mexico with Canada and the US
Doing business in Mexico is very different than in Canada and the US. The values, social practices, managerial methods, and belief systems of the Mexican worker and Mexican manager are different. They ...
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Jaripeo: Mexico's drive-in rodeo
Juan Mata Ortíz is a small village of potters, farmers and cowboys in Northern Chihuahua. About 30 years ago, an unschooled artistic genius, Juan Quezada, taught himself how to make earthenware jars i...
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Huellas ...del cohetero
It's a brisk, moonless night. At the edge of the Ajijic plaza, an anxious group of villagers huddle shoulder to shoulder, casting expectant glances towards the star-studded sky. A sudden barrage of whistling, sputtering explosives rents the night air. The crowd takes a collective lunge backwards, letting out a gasp of wondrous surprise. A brilliant flash of multi-colored lights illuminates the mass of upturned faces.
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Huellas ...de Santa Cecilia
November is a festive month here in Ajijic, beginning with the celebrations of All Saints Day and Day of the Dead, and ending with the feast of the village's patron, San Andrés.
Invariably the most l...
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Huellas... en el campo santo
The recent demise of one of my dearest friends has made me reflect on how my experiences in Mexico have not only enriched my life, but also taught me to better cope with death. I am deeply grateful to ...
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A new generation embraces centuries-old music of Mexico
Every Friday night around six in the evening at Cielito Lindo in South El Monte, California, a large crowd begins to gather. The same thing occurs 1,400 miles away, at El Jalisco Bar in Austin, Texas. What brings crowds to these and hundreds of other restaurants like them across the country? Some say it's the latest margarita happy hour or the growing popularity of Mexican food that packs them in. But a survey of customers reveals that it's the appearance of local Mexican music sensations and an appreciation of the sounds of four or more violins, at least two guitars, a deep-voiced guitarron, a vihuela, and, yes, trumpets. Mariachi music is the sound that speaks to your emotions.
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Celebrating the Days of the Dead: The Heart Speaks Clearly in Michoacán
The Days of the Dead, celebrated throughout Mexico, coincide with the Christian All Souls and All Saints days, November 1 and 2nd. People who have died in the past year are remembered, their pictures p...
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Eating the guest of honor
Juan Mata Ortíz is a small village of potters, farmers and cowboys in Northern Chihuahua. About 30 years ago, an unschooled artistic genius, Juan Quezada, taught himself how to make earthenware jars i...
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Getting a divorce in Mexico
Sure, it's possible for two US citizens to obtain a divorce from one another in Baja California. Whether it's wise is another matter.
In the old days, before "no fault" or irreconcilable differences grounds became prevalent, Mexican divorces were popular because of the difficulty of obtaining a divorce in certain states. As a result, many Mexican "quickie" divorces did nothing more lighten the litigants' pockets and fill them with the false notion that the marriage had actually been dissolved.
read moreShopping in Mexico: the tianguis
The Aztecs called it tianquiztli, Nahuatl for the marketplace". Modern Mexicans refer to it as the tianguis, mercado sobre ruedas ("market on wheels" - a term used mostly in Mexico City), ...
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20 years visiting the Huichols
High in the Sierra Madre Occidental mountains of Mexico, northwest of Guadalajara, the Huichol Indians live in small villages called ranchos scattered throughout this remote, rugged terrain. They integ...
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La Quinceañera: a celebration of budding womanhood
The transition from childhood to womanhood is a significant passage for adolescent girls in almost all cultures. In Mexico, it is marked with the celebration of the Quinceañera, or 15th Birthday. From...
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Huichol artwork: the ceremonial bowls
The ceremonial bowls or jícaras, as they are called, are made of gourds which are prized for their light weight and durability as water vessels and storage containers.
The bowls hold visions and crea...
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