Visiting Mexico is one thing. Living here is another. Basking amid sweet breezes and swaying palms, marimba rhythms, strains of Eres Tu, and romantic vistas, the tourist's Mexico is temporary, amid room-serviced luxury or experiential trysts with simple-pleasured paradise. For most of us, neither is an option for a permanent lifestyle. Reality lands, bringing mundane concerns and excess baggage of money, medical care, reliable phone service, the mail, and nearly every other aspect of Peoria as home becomes Mexico.

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Guitarists sing and play on a city street in Oaxaca, Mexico. © Allan Cogan, 1997 A first visit to Oaxaca, capital of Mexico's southern state of Oaxaca, should begin at the zócalo, the town plaza.... read more

The third week of May, 2008, Hertz in Oaxaca changed its downtown location from a side street to the main drag, the pedestrian walkway known as Alcalá about a block and a half up from the zócalo. The... read more

"Remember in the market I told you there were two types of gusano worm? Here they are, so who wants to try?" Oaxaca's unique gastronomy is rich in unique herb- and spice-accented flavor combinations that are its hallmark. Chef extraordinaire Pilar Cabrera inspires and sates travelers with a sensual day-long immersion into sights, sounds, smells and, yes, tastes and time-tested recipes of southern Mexico. read more

If you're getting married, turning 50, or planning that anniversary bash... consider Oaxaca They say that Mexicans really know how to party. Here in Oaxaca we do it in spades, because it's part of a l... read more

This homemade candy is the kind sold at regional fairs in Mexico. Although in some places it is sold in miniature clay cazuelas, it is better cut up and individually wrapped in cellophane, since it is ... read more

One of the most refreshing Mexican fruit drinks, or aguas, is the deep ruby colored agua de jamaica, made from roselle hibiscus. This agua has lately been adopted by creative Mexican chefs for use in a variety of both sweet and savory dishes, including marinades, sauces, sorbets, granitas, jellies and trendy cocktails. Its intense color and tart flavor are quite original. read more

These could probably be called empanadas, except that the dough is thinner, and if cheese-stuffed masa is called quesadillas, there is some logic to calling fish-stuffed masa pescadillas. Nomenclature ... read more

This marinade is great for thick pieces of fish or fish kebobs destined for the grill. For a far superior flavor, try to use wood charcoal instead of "briquettes." Ingredients 4 8-ounce tuna s... read more

Coconut ready to drain the milk © Sergio Wheeler, 2011 This was the perfect accompaniment to the grilled tuna. Use fresh lemongrass, rather than the dried version sold to make tea. Ingredients ... read more

"Most Mexicans don't live on dirt farms, wear sombreros and eat only beans and tortillas. Most Mexicans stay in Mexico because they think the quality of life is better than in the United States. … These are their stories." To write Modern Mexico, "Mexico" Mike Nelson talked with lots of people... read more

Oaxaca is magical — its history, culture, art, architecture and folklore. The traditional Guelaguetza, celebrated in July, is a quintessential expression of Oaxaca tradition. Now, Noches Magicas de G... read more

The tehuano endlessly blows where North America stops. The tehuano, the unforgiving forever wind of the Isthmus of Tehauntepec, ceaselessly scours a path through the wide gap where the continent of North America ends and Central America starts. This narrow neck of land joining the Atlantic to the Pacific — once a candidate along with Panama for a deep sea canal — is about 35 miles from north to south. read more