Mexican chicken in yogurt sauce: Enjococado
The name of this dish is derived from the Spanish word jocoque, which is sometimes translated as buttermilk, but is really a type of thick yogurt of Middle Eastern origin. In the city of Puebla, with its large Lebanese population, jocoque is sold in most supermarkets, but in rural areas it is homemade and truly delicious. If you can't find jocoque, a mixture of half sour cream and half regular plain yogurt is an acceptable substitute.
read more
Mexican trout with sesame seeds in parchment paper: Trucha empapelada con ajonjoli
The Mexican trout farms in the mountains outside Atlixco have open air restaurants that are crowded with families getting out of the city on weekends. The menus feature trucha empapelada, or en papillo...
read more
Mexican-style rabbit in red pipian with wild mushrooms: Pipian rojo con conejo y hongos silvestres
This colorful alabrije rabbit by Jacobo Angeles races across the Mexican mountain meadows.
© Alvin Starkman, 2008
I taught this in a cooking class I gave last summer in Cuetzalan, Puebla, where I ...
read more
Mexican chicken and allspice stew: Chilpozontle
A specialty of the Puebla mountain town of Zacapoaxtla, this Mexican dish uses allspice leaves as well as berries in a savory chicken stew. If you can't get allspice leaves, fresh bay leaves work well....
read more
Candied walnuts: Nueces garapiñadas
Candied nuts are a favorite treat in Mexico, and may be made with walnuts, pecans, almonds or peanuts. Walnuts are most prevalent during the winter holiday season. This sweet is one of the things we ca...
read more
Puebla style eggnog: Rompope
This beverage was first made by the colonial-era nuns at the Convent of Santa Clara in Puebla, and the Santa Clara brand is still one of the most popular. It is fun and very easy to make at home. Unlik...
read more
Grilled marinated chicken breasts: Pollo atlixquense
"Melting pot" cooking has given rise to innumerable ethnic grocery stores in the United States, and for people who enjoy cooking authentic Mexican food, this means that ingredients are easily available. Dried avocado leaves, essential to several Mixteca recipes, are sold in just about any Mexican grocery store.
read more
Sauteed apples and eggs: Huevos zacatlantecos
After the Virgen de la Asuncion has been raised up from her bed of apples, a little bit every hour throughout the night, the faithful make their way home in the wee hours with bags of apples from her bed. This apple and egg dish is a traditional breakfast at this time of year.
read more
Puebla style sandwiches: Cemitas:
A few years ago, I had a call from Rachel Wharton, a writer for the New York Daily News food section. She was writing an article on cemitas, the latest sandwich craze to hit New York at the time, thank...
read more
Fried cutlet torta: Torta de milanesa
While a torta can be filled with any kind of savory sandwich filling, the beans, avocado and tomato are always present. Leave out the onion if you are not a fan, or substitute mayonnaise for the crema; some torterías use melted butter instead of crema.
read more
Puebla-Style Turkey Mole: Mole Poblano de Guajolote
There are probably as many recipes for this dish as there are cooks in Puebla, where it is indispensable at wedding fiestas. During Puebla's Festival de Mole Poblano, which is held for three consecutiv...
read more
Fish in red pipian: Pescado en pipian rojo
The mountains of northern Puebla and Veracruz are blessed with an abundance of freshwater fish. The combination of fish and pipian is unusual but delicious, and any firm fleshed white fish can be use...
read more
Cholula Style Vegetable Salad: Ensalada Cholulterranea
Both types of squash used in this dish, along with pumpkin seeds and squash blossoms, are characteristic ingredients in Central Mexican cooking. If chilacayote is unavailable in your area, substitute c...
read more
Stuffed Grape Leaves: Tacos de Parra
In Puebla, these are most often served as small, finger-size rolls, in which case they are referred to as taquitos. Grape leaves usually come in a jar, packed in brine, and must be thoroughly rinsed...
read more
Mexican-Lebanese Lamb Tartare: Kebe Cruda
I had not eaten raw meat since I was growing up in New York, saying "yuck" to my father's order of steak tartare, until I tried this dish in Puebla recently. The addition of fresh chile seeds gives it ...
read more
Baked Kibbeh: Kebe Charola
Charola is the Spanish word for a tray or, in this case, the pan in which the kibbeh is baked. It is something like a meat loaf made with lamb, with the outer layers forming a crust to hold the meat an...
read more
Lasagna with Poblano Chiles In Cream: Lasagna con Rajas de Chile Poblano
We first saw this in a restaurant in Chipilo. If you like lasagna with white sauces, this one is a delicious change from the usual. The filling is the very Pueblan rajas con crema, poblano chile str...
read more
Sweet Potato Pudding: Budín de Camote
I first tasted this dish several years ago, prepared by Doña Gloria of the Hotel Bar Reforma in Cholula. It was the first time I had seen the purple-fleshed variety of sweet potatoes other than in the...
read more
Anchos Encurtidos: Sweet and Hot Ancho Chiles
Here in Cholula, the market ladies sell pickled sweet-and-hot chipotles known locally as " chipocludos," a recipe for which was given in this column in the February 2003 issue of Mexico Connect. This...
read more
Chicken in Peanut Sauce: Pollo Encacahuatado
Moles and other thick sauces made with nuts and seeds go best with chicken and pork. This recipe is from the town of Huauchinango, Puebla, set in a cloud forest not far from the Puebla-Veracruz border....
read more
Puebla-style Chalupas: Chalupas Poblanas
Named for the canoe-like boats that the Aztecs used to navigate the canals of their ancient capitol Tenochtitlan, now Mexico City, chalupas are one of the most popular snacks in Central Mexico. ...
read more
Stuffed Nopales: Huaraches
These were first served to us at the nopal fair in Tlaxcalancingo, Puebla. I have since had them in restaurants in Mexico City. They are aptly named for the flat soles of the country people's sandals t...
read more
Fresh corn pozole from southern Puebla: Elopozole de Tierra Caliente
In the northern and central parts of the state, southern Puebla is called " tierra caliente" — hot land — although it can get chilly in winter, especially in the mountains. Most pozole is made with hominy-like corn kernels that have been dried then soaked, but this one is made with fresh corn, called elote, thus giving rise to the name elopozole.
read more
Garlic soup from San Gabriel Chilac: Sopa de ajo
San Gabriel Chilac, the southern Puebla town known for hand-embroidered blouses and dresses, is a garlic-growing region providing this indispensable culinary ingredient to much of the area, where this ...
read more
Goat and vegetable mole: Mole de caderas
Every year pamphlets explaining the origins of this dish, along with a list of ingredients, are distributed in Tehuacan's restaurants by the city's Gastronomic Council, an association of restaurant own...
read more