Merry ( cough, hack ) Christmas ( wheeze )
A latecomer brought by TV and consumerism from El Norte, this Santa, with his reindeer made from local tree branches, was greeted with a mixture of awe and nervousness by the children on the plaza in f...
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Where did all the billionaires come from?
This piece was written in the summer of 1995. The number of Mexican billionaires has diminished, but the kidnappings have increased. The photo is of the inlet to Santa Cruz Huatulco. Photography by D...
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Sharing the wealth
If you hang out in the Zocalo (town square) as much as I do, the beggars get to know you. Depending on how you handle yourself, the nightly encounters can be easy or annoying. The reactions of the othe...
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Please stop rocking the bus
All roads in Oaxaca state lead to the south side of the Zócalo, facing the state Government Palace. On most days, there is a march and demonstration there by one disaffected group or other. This...
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Noise
"Monos", which are worn by street dancers, performing to tinny, syncopated brass band music, are a feature of any "calenda" (procession) or fiesta. Mono is the spanish word for monkey, but nowadays mon...
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A small mound in Xoxo
Preschool children in Puerto Escondido line up for a parade during a three day festival to honor the patron saint of the village. The tuxedo signifies new inroads of modern times into more traditional ...
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The National Erosion Project
While traveling through the mountains to Tehuantepec, I noticed a large bald patch, obviously man made, on a very steep slope. At the time I thought "ah, someone must want to create erosion". The rest ...
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After the storm
This photo was taken in one of the few buildings left standing at Piña Palmera, on Zipolite beach. By now, the foot or so of mud on the floor has been mucked out. By now, also, relief should be reachi...
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Quien sabe?
I read somewhere that there are three stages to many occurrences in Mexico: the event; the contradictory rumors that are told about the event; and the decision that, given all the preposterous rumors, ...
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Shopping on Sunday
Made by art students from sand and other materials, this sculpture in front of the Oaxaca Cathedral was created for Dia de Los Muertos (Day of the Dead). Photography by Diana Ricci ...
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Nobody expects the Protestant Inquisition
First written in the spring of 1994, this story has been revised several times as dictated by subsequent events. It has generated more responses than any other. Most of them have been at least somewhat...
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Plenty too much everything
Figures made from cornhusks on display at Radish Festival, held on December 24 in the zocalo, Oaxaca. Photography by Diana Ricci
In Oaxaca, having "bastante" (too much) is not consid...
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The servant
In early 1994, when this letter first appeared, I did not have any personal knowledge regarding the practices outlined here; nor do I now. I introduced this subject because there had been persistently ...
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My search for the perfect bathroom
Refugees from Loxicha, near Huatulco, brought their animals with them to the zocalo in Oaxaca. They set up a tarpaulin over a sewer grate for use as a bathroom. The governor did not invite them to use ...
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New kids on the block
In March of 1994, I was contemplating the saying "Mexico: so far from God, so close to the United States", and having a good chuckle over El Sub's interview with Ed Bradley. In March of 1996, Marcos me...
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Letters to the editor: June - Nov. 1995
Below are some archives of letters to the editor that Stan has chosen to answer with open responses.
November 30, 1995
The Struggle
Curious, it seems. My wife and I were on a bus...
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Stan Gotlieb: the author talks about himself
This is my 73rd article. The other 72, as well as a "letters to the editor" section, answers to some Frequently asked Questions and a subscription Newsletter sample, are also available on this site. Ta...
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Screwing the screw fly in Chiapas
San Cristobal in April 1994 looked a lot like the rear command area in any bush war: lots of army, government officials, reporters, human rights observers, and tourists like me. A year after writing th...
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The customer is always right... but
Carved figure on display at the annual Radish Festival, held each year on December 23. "Mata rile rile ron" is a children's verse, used in a sort of "musical chairs" game. Photography by Diana Ricci
S...
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Excuse me, but do you live here?
This is my first essay, started not long after I arrived in Oaxaca. Later, I added the next-to-last paragraph to reflect my deeper understanding of, and my "upward" movement in, the gringo establishmen...
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Right time, wrong place
Protest flag, Zocalo, Oaxaca City, 1996: "Death to the PRI government, responsible for the corruption, misery and killing of the Mexican people" Photography by Diana Ricci.
The local July 4th party wa...
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A tale of two students
Meeting the folks in this story was inspiring. It sure blows the stereotype of the "lazy Mexican" all to hell. Photography by Diana Ricci
Pablo was the first in his family to move from their mountain ...
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And now for something a little different
The main gate of the central cemetery of Oaxaca decorated for Dia de los Muertos. "Eternity starts here; worldly aggrandizement is dust" Photography by Diana Ricci.
For me, "The Last Waltz", Robert Al...
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