After getting set up to stay in Oaxaca for a while I decided last week to make a quick trip to Guadalajara and Ajijic to pick up some stuff I left there in storage and haul it down to Oaxaca. I had to drive, as I needed my truck to haul the stuff. I had planned to travel alone but at the last minute a young Mexican lady who lives in Mexico D.F. but had been spending Semana Santa in Oaxaca decided to ride with me as far as D.F.
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Tequila Sunrise is a disco in Puerto Escondido, owned by a couple of Californians. This sign belongs to them. I just thought it ironic that "drugs" apparently does not include booze, which they are in ...
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In January, I celebrated my fifth anniversary in Oaxaca, the second longest period of time I have ever spent in one place. " Soy vagabundo" (I am a wanderer), I often answer when asked what I "do...
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La Casa de Mescal is a Oaxaca landmark, which at the millenium will have been doing business at this location near the Zocalo for 60 years. Those of us who prefer Mezcal to its cousin, Tequila, know th...
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January 22nd … Adios Cuernavaca…Hola Oaxaca. Not sure how long it would take us to get to Oaxaca, we took off about 7 AM north out of Cuernavaca on Hwy 95D towards Mexico City and shortly thereafter turned south on Hwy 115D (which became 160 at Cuatla) towards Cuatla and Izucar de Matamoros. Although it looked longer on the map than continuing south from Izucar, the plan was to get as soon as possible to the Autopista for Puebla and then go south to Oaxaca on toll roads all the way. Although expensive, toll roads are the way to go as far as I'm concerned.
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In the late summer of 1996, the weary traveler reflects on a long time spent away from home. (Pictured are the ruins at Yagul, near Oaxaca ). Photography by Diana Ricci
Got my ticket in my pocket...
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In Spanish, Puerto Escondido means 'hidden port', and the little beach town tucked away in the southern part of Oaxaca certainly lives up to that name. Part of its elusiveness is because there are no d...
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(Part 1: The America's Oldest Urban Center)
Having reached Monte Alban and entered the site, on your right as you stand at the corner of the main plaza is the North Platform, the site of th...
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The warm afternoon breeze wafts a gentle mist of dust across the floor of the Oaxaca valley and into Oaxaca city, softening the colonial patina of the richly carved, 300-year-old cathedral. The dust is...
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A detail salvaged from the original convent of Santo Domingo graces one side of the main entrance to the newly refurbished Oaxaca Cultural Center and Regional Museum.
[This is a special article abou...
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Your cab deposits you outside the arched entrance to the pastel stucco hotel, and as you pass through its main portal, you are transported to another dimension, another time, to a village in Spain perh...
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(populations based on 1990 census)
GUERRERO
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My friends asked, “You’re going by bus? Why?” I rationalized about all the experiences I’d have to write about. After vacationing for a week in the Yucatan, I was heading back to Oaxaca, where ...
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General Comments
Puerto Escondido is a travelers' and vacationers' market right now. Tourism is down this year to perhaps a third of its normal level. One government official told us that if it were n...
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November first is children's day in the series of remembrances and festivities that are known as Dias de los Muertos (days of the dead). On this day, the souls of departed children migrate to the homes...
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This photo was taken in one of the few buildings left standing at Piña Palmera, on Zipolite beach. By now, the foot or so of mud on the floor has been mucked out. By now, also, relief should be reachi...
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Refugees from Loxicha, near Huatulco, brought their animals with them to the zocalo in Oaxaca. They set up a tarpaulin over a sewer grate for use as a bathroom. The governor did not invite them to use ...
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This is my 73rd article. The other 72, as well as a "letters to the editor" section, answers to some Frequently asked Questions and a subscription Newsletter sample, are also available on this site. Ta...
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I need to arrange for bus tickets for 7 people from Mexico City to
Oaxaca on the morning of the 21st of December. I've heard that the "Uno"
is the one to take and I'd like to make reservations for the 7 of us in
advance. Is it possible to do this and if so, how? And if you're really
familiar with the buses, how much?
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Mexico is a place where much is hidden. Things go on close to the surface, but not on it. It makes for a sometimes frustrating, always engaging experience.
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Imagine a language course that starts off with the instructor giving a monologue that lasts all of sixty minutes, delivered almost entirely in Spanish. What our teacher, Hugo, gave us on that first day was a rundown, delivered at a normal conversational pace, on what we could expect in the next month. There were very few English words used, other than those we obviously didn’t understand. The only saving grace for us was that Hugo repeated his message constantly in several different ways.
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My guide book tells me that it's exactly 1,000 kilometers from Guadalajara to Oaxaca. That's about 660 miles. I know of people who say they've driven the distance in one day and I have to concede that it's possible. The only way you can do it is to take toll roads the whole way, start at the crack of dawn and drive like hell. The other thing you have to do is drive through Mexico City.
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Believe me, Oaxaca is not quite like any other town you’ve ever been to. Even in Mexico.
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