Western Mexico: A Traveler's Treasury, 4th edition
Lancandon Journal - 1969
In 1969, this culture was already in decline, undermined by the relentless forces of what some still call progress.
Jungle adventures are always challenging. This trip was a very difficult one for Gary, his young companion, and although difficult as well for Krustev, the artist was generally of a calm and philosophically disposed spirit... read more
Let the Water Hold Me Down
It is written with skill and with grace, and the old verities that are at the heart of being human are here: loss and grief, guilt and longing, loyalty and love.
Set in modern-day Mexico, it tells the story of Hank Singer and is also about his relationship with César Lobos de Madrid, whose "family was one of the oldest, wealthiest, and most politically connected in Chiapas, if not in all of Mexico."
Hank has arrived just a few weeks before the Zapatista uprising in Chiapas, led by Subcomandante Marcos, who on January 1, 1994, declared war against the government and the military... read more
Mexican scrambled eggs with dried shrimp: Huevos revueltos con camarones secos
I went through several versions of Mexican scrambled eggs with dried shrimp, a common dish in Oaxaca's Isthmus region, to find my favorite. In the Isthmus, it is made with camarones oreados, or partial...
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Oaxaca white beans with dried shrimp: Frijoles blancos con camaron seco
This recipe for white beans with dried shrimp from the southern Pacific coast of Oaxaca is adapted from Susana Trilling's wonderful regional cookbook, Seasons of My Heart. Use other beans, such as fava...
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Radiant radishes: La Noche de Rabanos in Oaxaca
For one night of the year in Oaxaca, Mexico, the Raphanus sativus, or radish as it is more commonly known, escapes its destiny as root vegetable side dish and becomes art. Thousands upon thousands of r...
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In a God's Eye
She helps her gardener with his English, takes pleasure in her garden, is fascinated by the old Mayan legends, grateful for the sacrifices of their gods, and holds sacred the food she receives.
A principle she lives by is this: "be thankful and say so regularly." She feels in her heart that this religious attitude is "much easier to grasp than the more intellectual, less sensory religions…." read more
Mexican beef chichilo by Pilar Cabrera: Chichilo de res por Pilar Cabrera
Mexican beef chichilo is probably the least known of Oaxaca's moles. It is one of the only instances where nearly burning the chile gives an intense, smoky taste to the finished product. Pilar Cabrera ...
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Tehuantepec: Hold on to your sombrero
A staple food from tropical Mexico: Yucca
Tejate: Drink of Aztec rulers and Zapotec gods
Tejate is a pre-Hispanic corn and cacao based drink. It is likely the only complex food recipe in all Mexico still enjoyed today just as it was thousands of years ago in Oaxaca.
When visiting a Oaxaca...
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Mexican filled plantain croquettes: Croquetas de platano rellenos
Plantains, called plátano macho in Spanish, play an important role in the diet of southern Mexicans. They should not be used in cooking until ripe, at which point they will be nearly black all ov...
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July in Oaxaca: The Mexican pageantry of the Guelaguetza
Mexico's Scorpion Mezcal empowers Oaxaca women
Erica is sitting in the office of her boss of eight years, Douglas French, owner of Scorpion Mezcal in San Agustín de las Juntas, Oaxaca. French has just informed her that she qualifies to become a pu...
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Mexico's Frida Kahlo in Oaxaca Handicrafts
The Mexican state of Oaxaca is renowned for its handicrafts. From black pottery and handloomed Zapotec rugs to silverwork and alebrijes, the collector will find a wealth of beautiful handcrafted work. ...
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Hierve el Agua: Bubbling springs and petrified waterfalls in Oaxaca, Mexico
Hierve el Agua is stunning, one of Oaxaca's most impressive attractions — and perhaps one of the most spectacular in the entire country. Yet, surprisingly, it is one of the least visited. With its bu...
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Mexican rice and amaranth pudding: Arroz y amaranto con leche
This variation of the classic arroz con leche is served in Zimatlan, Oaxaca, one of the largest amaranth-producing areas in Mexico. The addition of popped amaranth grains adds nutrients as well ...
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Christmas magic in Oaxaca: A multi-faceted experience of culture & tradition
Oaxaca is magical — its history, culture, art, architecture and folklore. The traditional Guelaguetza, celebrated in July, is a quintessential expression of Oaxaca tradition. Now, Noches Magicas de G...
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The New World Mexican Women of Tecalpulco, Mexico
Mexican Oaxaca-style lentils: Lentejas oaxaqueñas
This spicy-sweet, meatless main dish is traditional Oaxacan Lenten fare. The combination of spices with fruit is characteristic of southern Mexican cooking. Lentils are one of the fastest-cooking legum...
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My journey with La Calaca: a Day of the Dead experience
An opalescent sky muted the harshness of the emerald earth as the old car struggled up the rock-filled Mexican road, leaving the breeze blown coast behind. I had begun a journey deep into the verdant m...
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Market day in Ocotlan, Oaxaca: Gourmet grazing in Southern Mexico
Refreshing squash drink: Agua de chilacayote
The bottle gourd, cucurbita Ficifolia, a rather bland member of the squash family, is common in Oaxacan cuisine, either cooked in stews, used to make a dulce something like candied pumpkin, or in this ...
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Potato and fava bean patties with costeño chile sauce: Tortitas de papas y habas con salsa de chile costeño
The potato tortitas, or "patties" sold inside some of Oaxaca's markets are superb — light on the inside, with a crunchy golden crust. This variation is typical of the region from Ocotlan south to the...
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Oaxacan yellow mole: Amarillo
Called simply (and fondly) "amarillo," this Oaxacan mole dish is a specialty of the Central Valleys region of this southern Mexico state. Although usually made with chicken, it is one of the few mol...
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