"Walking the Walk, Talking the Talk"
Part XII
ATLANTIS in Mexico: Part 2By Wendy Devlin
Her Bio
Manzanillo, Colima is an important seaport since before the Spanish Conquest and a popular international tourist destination. The old, provincial port is also the western home for the Mexican navy. Driving in from the north towards Manzanillo's international airport, Playa de Oro, the scenery is lovely with palm trees and fruit trees, tropical foliage and lagoons. But as you approach the harbor, the scene changes to a marine beehive. You might even encounter the Japanese fleet in town! The docks are downtown, and the railroad tracks to the wharves cut across the main street.
The town itself is situated on the southern end of Manzanillo Bay on a narrow isthmus that separates the Pacific from the large Cuyutlan Lagoon. Before the Spanish came, it was an important fishing village said to have hosted junks from the Orient. Today Manzanillo ranks as Mexico's most important western port, largely because it's the only major one with rail connections to the interior. It's a shipping center for coconuts, bananas, limes, avocados, mangoes and sugar cane from the local plantations.
Following a five-hour express bus ride south from Puerto Vallarta, I arrived with two of my teens at Manzanillo. We booked in as planned at the Hotel Sierra Manzanillo located at the Playa Audiencia. In 1522 while in search of Chinese treasure in the Pacific, Cortes's captain, Gonzalo de Sandoval granted audience with local Indian chieftains in this same small cove. For two days I sought for my 'audiencia' with Valise, my Internet connection, via the two phone numbers that he had given me. Nada! One proved a wrong number and the other rang without answer. "Was this Internet international connection a bust?" I wondered.
Never the less I determined to make one more attempt to contact Valise. My twelve-year old daughter, Rose and I boarded a city bus, which shuddered and snorted the seven miles back into downtown Manzanillo. Following a visit to the local fresh food market down a rabbit warren of streets, we made our way to the zocalo that fronts the harbor. In the winter sun, we sat, eating fresh fruit ice cream and gazing at the ships in the harbor. "Could one of them be the ATLANTIS? I questioned. "If ships at a distance have everyone's wish aboard', then which ship held mine?"
The Research Vessel ATLANTIS is operated by the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (WHOI). It is one of the most sophisticated research vessels afloat, equipped with precision navigation, bottom mapping and satellite communications systems. The research supports the understanding of the biological, chemical and geological processes that have shaped our planet and influenced the physical and chemical properties of the world's oceans. Through the synergy of submersibles, remotely operated vehicles, and sophisticated, towed, deep-submergence vehicles, the "Inner Space" of the vast, virtually unexplored region beneath the world's oceans presents a challenge for scientific investigation.
Only one more stone remained unturned in my personal search for ATLANTIS. I would ask at the tourist kiosk by the zocalo for a possible new address or phone number for Valise's elusive company. The tourist policeman in his starched white uniform and Safari hat spoke few words of English. In limited Spanish, I requested the information. Yes! The helpful policeman located an address and a new phone number! The secretary who answered the phone said Valise was supervising the loading of the ATLANTIS at this very moment. Not a moment to waste! The tourist policeman pointed the way to the pier only hundreds of feet away where the ship lay at dock.
As Rose and I approached the ship, I saw a man pointing and directing crewmembers to move and hoist cargo. Upon my approach, he turned abruptly towards me and asked, "Are you looking for someone?"
I answered, " I'm looking for Valise Tudoran."
He replied, " I'm the man."
I quipped, "Then, I'm Wendy Devlin, from the Internet. Happy to meet you!"
Valise's face dropped in surprise. Then we chatted a few minutes to catch up on our news. He said, "We are nearly finished loading the ship for the morning. Go and wait in the shade until we break soon for lunch. I am taking the ship's captain, the director of the project and another scientist out for lunch. You and your daughter must join us!"
Soon we were all seated at a dockside restaurant. Darting ocean breezes lifted and pulled at the plastic canopy. Its simple tables covered with checkered plastic tablecloths hid its reputation as a source of fresh and succulent seafood. Valise had preordered the menu the day before. Plenty of cool cervezas slaked our thirst while he treated our taste buds to world-famous Manzanillo fresh seafood.
Valise is involved in international ship to shore arrangements. Although I confess general ignorance of his business, a two-hour luncheon in the company of these men and other dock workers who stopped by to join us convinced me that Valise is well known as a man who can get the job done! The men involved with the ATLANTIS described how they had attempted to work through other people and agencies to supply the huge requirements of their research vessel but they had met with considerable delays, frustrations and expense. But Valise seemed able to supply and move cargo on either side of the continent and they seemed pleased with his arrangements.
After lunch, Captain Gary Chiljean, from the ATLANTIS offered to take Rose and myself aboard for a tour through the ship. As we stepped off of the gangplank onto the deck, I noticed a large storage shed. Here rested an automated remote sensing devise, ABE, which is deployed to seek information at night and then retrieved in the early morning. After the information is analyzed then the submersible Alvin is deployed for further investigation. Next we climbed stairs and peered down the hatch of the famous Alvin. Looking curiously like an oversized fantasy bathtub toy, the small submarine received its final preparations with its crew of three for the sea voyage ahead.
The ATLANTIS would depart Manzanillo for Easter Island, Chile on Dec. 16, l998 on Leg XXX of Voyage #3. (Link to map of where the Atlantis is today!) The cruise is a continuation effort to understand the vent ecology, biology, and geology of global hydrothermal vents. Deep-sea vent organisms would be studied for gene flow among populations. Alvin would make a total of 24 dives within 34 days of the cruise. Glimpsing its titanium hull reminded me of the Titanic. In 1985, Alvin discovered and explored the wreck of the great ship. Four years later, the use of deep submergence vehicles, satellite link-ups and images of the ocean floor taught hundreds of thousands of students around the world through the Jason Project. In my family's early exploration of the Internet, we had visited the project on-line with the same fascination that I experienced viewing the vehicles in reality.
Inside the main cabins and quarters, my daughter Rose and I glimpsed the world of fifty adults living at sea for over a full month. Captain Chiljean toured us through the laboratories, the mess hall, the library, and the lounge. Rose described exploring these quarters like the mystery game of "Clue". As she explored each new room, she examined it for clues as to how the crew lived and worked while at sea. Later, she would make a presentation to her grade seven class back in Canada.
In his cabin, Captain Chiljean retrieved a souvenir for Rose. This Styrofoam cup had been placed in a bag with dozens of others. The bag was sunk to the ocean depths. Under the change in pressure, the cup became reduced to the size of a large thimble. Autographed and decorated with Christmas motifs, the cup now resembled a small bell. He searched for pamphlets and a video regarding the ship and its projects to give to us. I noticed that he searched among his golf balls and putting stands. "Golf is my passion," Captain Gary replied to my questioning gaze, " I've played on almost all of the world's continents. When I retire, that's what I want to play most!"
Next we climbed a narrow staircase to the ship's bridge. No wheel to steer this modern ship! The ship has no rudder and is steered by pushing, pulling and turning two small levers that swivel and propel the thrusters. "Picture an outboard motor where you have an actual lever that you use to turn the motor around in this central control," explained Captain Chiljean. He pointed out that he could also steer with controls located on each side of the bridge, which permitted him to look over the side of the ship. Two surveillance cameras scanned the activities of the loading preparations upon the lower decks. Valise was down there supervising the work.
After an hour, Rose and I quit the decks of the Research Vessel ATLANTIS and waved good-by to Captain Gary and Valise. Our personal voyage of discovery from Vancouver, Canada to Manzanillo Mexico had succeeded. Like explorer's of old, our voyage utilized the latest in technology and communication systems. In this case, we traveled first virtually via the Internet and later by plane and bus to visit a discovery ship. International goodwill and maybe just a little good fortune favored our adventure. But then ships at a distance have everyone's wish aboard!
Related URLS and travel books
Tom Pennick's "Pacific Coast at Oaxaca" http://www.eden.com/~tomzap/index.html
Woods Hole Oceanography Institute for the ATLANTIS http://www.WHOI.EDU
Pacific Mexico Handbook :Acapulco, Puerto Vallarta Oaxaca, Guadalajara, Mazatlan (3rd Ed)
Bruce Whipperman, 1997
An encyclopedic guide to the Mexican coast from Mazatlan to Oaxaca, this guide includes Guadalajara, Acapulco, Colima, Patzcuaro, Urapan, and Taxco.
Dearing Susan, Facts, Tips & Day trips, Guide to Manzanillo and Colima l998
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