By Shep Lenchek © 2000
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The Tarahumaras
An Endangered People"We, "The People, are an Independent Nation that does not recognize
the sovereignty or control of the Mexican Government."
This remarkable sentence was the opening statement of a petition that the Raramuri, better known as the Tarahumara addressed to the United Nations. Their complaint was that their tribal lands were being seized, forcing them to retreat into the most inaccessible parts of the Copper Canyon. They remain perhaps the purest and most unassimilated Indigenous Tribe in Mexico and who still consider themselves an independent Nation. This was not the only time they appealed to the United Nations for relief from Mexican oppression. So little is known about them that even their true name, "Raramuri" which means "The People," was corrupted to "Tarahumaras" by outsiders, and has never been officially corrected.They first came to the attention of the outside world as long distance runners. Living in high altitudes and forced to depend on foot-power to move about their isolated tribal world, they have developed tremendous lung capacity. In olden times they hunted wild goats and deer by running them down. In more modern times, they have run non-stop in relay teams from Chihuahua City to El Paso, Texas, a distance of 230 miles, to open the Pan-American Road Races. Thinking of including them on a Mexican Olympic Team, the recruiters were shocked to find that their cultural values do not permit them to "compete" against others. Thus the concept of running to finish ahead of others is completely alien to them.
A truly remarkable thing about them is that their ancient religion has bred into them a moral code so strict that they cannot tell a lie. Psychologists, who have confirmed this, suggest that over the centuries, their value system has actually caused physiological changes in their brain that preclude speaking anything but the truth. Nor can they cheat or fail to aid a fellow tribesman. Thus in a race, if one Raramuri were to fall behind, others in that race would slow down to let the laggard catch up.
Luis G. Verplancken, a Jesuit priest who has lived among them for years and is probably the greatest authority on their history and culture, describes them as loyal to God, their own culture and their own traditions. Those who have converted to Christianity, probably the majority, have brought their own ancient concepts into their new religion. God is both a Father and a Mother. Respect for one another is of prime importance. They value people far more than things. In their eyes, both the white men and the Mestizo are just as pagan as those of their brethren who have refused baptism, simply because over the years, both these groups have enslaved them, lied, cheated and driven them off the fertile land they once inhabited. Examining their religion we find a synthesis of the old and new. In their culture, long established rituals and symbols replace things of a contemplative nature. They prefer to pray via ritual dances rather than verbally.
Their ancient theology was not based on dogma or abstract concepts. Nor is their Christianity. Rather, it is a day by day practice of living in harmony with nature and their fellow man. Thus, they still look on the Sun and the Moon as religious symbols. Paying homage to the Cross and Saints, they sign across their face and turn their body to the left, the same way they saluted their old Gods. According to Father Verplancken, they made this same sign of the Cross as part of an ancient dance, Yumari, in which they offered food to the four points of the compass and their ancient Gods to insure rain and ward off evil. Recognizing this indigenous dance-oriented method of prayer, the Jesuits who were the first order to bring Christianity to this area, introduced the "Dance of the Matachines" which had originated in the Province of Venice in Italy, and is still performed there during Carnaval. The Raramuri perform it on all the Holy Days of the Catholic Church. Costumed, masked dancers move to the beat of drums and the wails of the flute. Other dances, equally colorful, are performed to solicit rain, heal the sick, while burying the dead.
Perhaps this blending of Christian and Pagan rites can be better understood if we remember that in 1767, King Charles III of Spain expelled the Jesuits from Nueva Espagna. Although the Franciscans attempted to fill the void, they had neither the manpower nor the money to really replace the exiled Jesuits. Thus for almost 150 years, the "People" were free to develop their own brand of Christianity. What is most extraordinary is that their commitment to Christianity continued. Now, Siriames, the traditional tribal headsmen, took over the duties traditionally preformed by priests. They presided at marriages and baptisms, gave religious instruction and spiritual guidance. We do not know whether the departing Jesuits delegated these duties or whether such things were always the traditional role of the tribal leaders. Apparently, the old ways were close enough to Christian practice to permit the new religion to survive in the absence of priests. What developed was acceptable both to the Church and the life style of the "People." Even now, rainmakers, healers and other keepers of the tribal heritage work side by side with Catholic Priests. It is a tribute to the goodwill and love of their fellow man that exists in both groups.
Over the years, discoveries of mineral wealth have forced the "People," to flee into the highest reaches of the Sierra Tarahumara. Located in the State of Chihuahua, even the valleys are over 5000 feet above sea level. Still, Mestizos continue to drive them off what little fertile land is still in their hands. They have little choice but to move to higher, more remote areas. There they live in caves, crude wooden huts or small stone buildings, till the barely arable soil and keep small numbers of goats, sheep and cows.
Despite this, most of the tribe still ignores the blandishments of Mexican city living. Only a handful live just outside Creel, the largest city in the area, and a tourist center. It is there that Father Verplancken lives and it is the site of a hospital and school run by the Jesuits. Little by little, this small group is becoming "citified." The majority of the tribe clings to their native costume, which is a loin-cloth for men, held together by a wool girdle wrapped twice around the waist. A long, loose, full sleeved cotton shirt and a cloth head-band complete the costume. The women wear full multiple or layered skirts. Blouses are always worn loose at the waist, with full sleeves, pleated at the shoulder and wrists. Like the men, they wear cloth headbands. Of course, a handful wear western style clothing when visiting Creel or one of the other cities within the Canyon, but return to their native garb on their return to their homes. The vast majority of them speak no Spanish and depend on a barter system rather than pesos.
On a visit to the area three years ago, we saw billboards proclaiming that the State of Chihuahua was at long last beginning a program to improve living conditions for the "People' and guarantee them some property rights. Yet the very next morning at breakfast in a local café we met a team of Canadian geologists, who were conducting a survey to uncover what things of value still lie hidden in the canyons. On a more recent visit, it appears they found nothing worthy of exploitation. Should they find anything of value, the "People" may once again find themselves deprived of any land they now hold that might attract developers. Perhaps their best chance for survival is the fact that Father Verplancken and the Jesuits are firmly committed to fighting for their welfare. They have opened two more hospitals and three more schools, all in remote areas.
With the election of Vincente Fox, reputedly a supporter of the Catholic Church, as the President of Mexico, it is possible that the Jesuits and the "People" will have a friend in a position of authority, to see to it that their rights are respected. Perhaps their future is brighter now than it appeared three years ago. They have survived centuries of abuse. This year the new problem is a drought. Their inner strength remains the best guarantee that they will survive.
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