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SAN LUIS POTOSI - BRIEF OVERVIEW
Supplement article to "Careful Miss Geri"By Geri Anderson - E-Mail to Geri Anderson
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ABOUT THE CITY
Situated about 300 miles north of Mexico City at an elevation of 6,200 feet, San Luis Potosi doesn't suffer the high summer temperatures and humidity of coastal areas. Although it's out of the Colonial Circle of cities such as San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Morelia, and Patzcuro, SLP, too, is rich with colonial architecture and history.
In the 17th century, San Luis Potosi was the Capital of Northern New Spain, a territory that extended into Louisiana and Texas. In the 1863 and again in 1867, it served as the capital of Mexico and home to President Benito Juarez. (He signed the death sentence of Emperor Maximillian here). Francisco Madera's "Plan of San Luis" called for Mexicans to revolt against dictatorship and spurred Mexico's Civil War that began November 20, 1910.
During my off-season visit in May, I encountered only half a dozen English-speaking travelers. Most shopkeepers and waiters do not speak English, but those who did were eager to talk. Not yet jaded by tourism, people treated me curiously, friendly, and welcoming.
I have no idea why José guided me to the top of the towers. How could he leave his post? Does he do this often? Should I have tipped him? If you want to go to the bell towers, contact him at home:
José Ricardo Juárez
Calle Manuel J.Othon #416
Colonia Las Higuera
Soledad de G. Sánchez
San Luis Potosí, Mexico.SIGHTS TO SEE
San Luis Potosi calls itself La Ciudad de Los Jardines, (City of Gardens). It is full of parks -- with trees, fountains, flowers, and benches. Cathedrals, museums, and theaters also abound in the city.
THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF MASKS reputedy has the most diverse collections of masks in Mexico. Across the street, the Teatro de la Paz is a combined theater/art gallery, with impressive two-story mosaic scenes. Don't miss Plaza San Francisco, a shaded jardín where you'll find the Casa de Artesanías with craft items from throughout Mexico for sale. The baroque-style Franciscan temple dating to early 18th century is the centerpiece of this park.
MERCADO HIDALGO, a 14-block market zone closed to vehicles, is a wonderful place to walk and shop. Products range from practical household items to native handicrafts, such as rebozo shawls made in the nearby pueblo of Santa María del Río.
At the north end, this marketplace turns into a typical Mexican food mart, filled with pungent smells of raw meat, the sounds of tortillas and spiced fillings sizzling on family grills, and scenes of bananas, mangos, limes, and avocados artistically arranged in colorful tiers.
LODGING
I stayed at Hotel Progesso, 115 Aldama, a renovated mansion in the central core. Rooms are clean, comfortable but not decorator perfect... about 70 pesos nightly for single. In the outskirts are more modern (and expensive) hotels, including a Holiday Inn.
RESTAURANTS
In the city's Zona Rosa, along Av. Venustiano Carranza, you'll find restaurants and night clubs, ranging from rib and steak houses to sushi bars and discos.
Try El Mexico de Frida, 656 Valentin Gama (a side street). It's a charming cafe decorated with baskets, bird cages, carvings, and the eclectic paintings of Frida Kahlo (second wife of Diego Rivera). One of the owners, Enrique Torre Campbell, is the son of a woman from the States who married a Potosino 45 years ago and has been in San Luis ever since. He speaks good English. The food is excellent -- from snacks to full meals. A chalkboard lists an inventory of rare wines.
FOR INFORMATION
In the city, there are state and city tourism offices at Calle Manual Jose Othon 130, and Av. Carranza 325. Before you go: Fax Me Mexico (541) 385-9282), request document #26567. Or, 1-800-44-Mexico.
ANOTHER CONTACT
A young woman who learned English in the United States recently opened a Cross-Cultural Institute in San Luis Potosi. She offers homestays and Spanish classes, as well as guided tours to native villages. If you want a guided tour of the city, I'm sure she'll arrange that also. Contact: Maria Armengol Nino, Mexican Cross-Cultural Institute, Juan de Oñate 660, San Luis Potosi, S.L.P., Mexico 78270.
Email: mcci@www.teqcorp.com.mxHOW TO GET THERE
San Luis Potosi is eight hours by train from Mexico City, and three hours by train from San Miguel de Allende. Buses connect through Queretaro. The city is served by Mexicana Airlines and Aero Mar.
Photo Strips from this article: - Photo Strip 33 - Photo Strip 34
Geri Anderson is a full time writer who lives in Oaxaca, and travels frequently through out Mexico.
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