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No Central Mexican parillada would be complete without a round of leaf-wrapped queso fresco - farmer cheese - on the grill. Banana leaves are now found in many Latin grocery stores north of the border, and are increasingly available in the frozen food sections of supermarkets. Avocado leaves are not as easily obtained in all areas, but impart a wonderful anise flavor to the cheese. If using avocado leaves, spread them on a square of foil, lay the round of cheese on top, cover with more leaves and fold up the foil to make a packet.

• 1 round (approximately 1 pound) queso fresco, farmer cheese or goat cheese
• 1 banana leaf, cut in half (or use avocado leaves, see above)

Wrap the cheese in 1 piece of the banana leaf, folding over to enclose the entire round. Turn over and double-wrap with the second piece of the leaf. Place, seam side down, near the edge of the grill. Grill 10-15 minutes, turning once.

Serves 8 as an accompaniment to grilled meat or chicken with salsas and hot tortillas.

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