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OBSERVATIONS ON MEXICO
Mexico Connect Forum Discussion Threads
Posted by Maureen on March 12, 1999
Dear Friends at Mexconnect:
Well, here I am back in Texas after five glorious weeks in Mexico. In three more weeks I return to my home in Canada. I’m glad to be able to drink the water with impunity, make a phone call to anyone I want, whenever I want, and to be able to speak and be understood. Otherwise, I MISS MEXICO!
I thought I’d pass on a few observations about the places that I went to, what I did and did not like.
I am thinking of moving to Mexico, and before I went, I had a list of places I particularly wanted to see: Chapala, Merida, Oaxaca, Xalapa, and Mazatlan. Indeed, this turned out to be too ambitious, given the great distances and short time involved. The places to which I ended up going were Chapala, Morelia, San Miguel de Allende, Xalapa, Coatepec, and Oaxaca.
I must say, I’ve fallen in love with Mexico, not difficult to do, given the friendly people, the beautiful scenery, the delicious food, the architecture, the beautiful flowers, and the climate. I know I’m not saying anything that hasn’t been said thousands of times before!
Weather: I was in Mexico from February 1 to March 6. The weather was good everywhere I went, with mild daytime temperatures and cooler nighttime temperatures, and everywhere was warmer than I expected it to be for the time of year. There was little rain, this being the dry season, but there were spectacular thunderstorms in both Xalapa and Oaxaca.
Friendliest People: In the tiny town of Xico, near Xalapa. I was greeted with smiles and waves by almost everyone there.
Favourite City: Without a doubt, Oaxaca. With its beautiful architecture, yellow and green stone buildings, surrounding mountains, well-maintained and clean downtown area, and climate, it’s no wonder this place is so popular. There is lots to enjoy in the way of music, dance, and theatre, and there are many Spanish schools. Lots of artesania in the local markets and surrounding villages, 27 major churches, and ruins complete the picture. Oaxaca also gets my vote for most beautiful zocalo.
Least Favourite City: This would have to be Xalapa. Xalapa has cultural activities, coffee, great restaurants, and universities, but lacks visual appeal, which is very important to me. I found Xalapa to be noisy, busy, crowded, and full of buses belching black smoke. Its narrow sidewalks and steep hills make walking difficult and sometimes dangerous. It is more humid than many mountain cities, however, I found this to be a plus.
Best Hotel: Two hotels get my vote. The Hostal De Bravo, on Nicholas Bravo in Xalapa is one. Not only is this place beautiful, clean, and inexpensive, the folks there went out of their way to look after me when I was sick. The other place is La Casa de la Tia, in Oaxaca. One of Oaxaca’s original buildings, this place is a peaceful oasis, and one-time family home of the owner. The friendly staff made me feel like family. Two blocks from the zocalo, and half a block from the tourist information office, 150 pesos/night.
Worst Hotel: Two hotels get my vote here, as well. The first is the Lake Chapala Inn. If you like to be insulted, hounded for money, and are willing to endure tension with your breakfast, then this B&B, at 520 pesos/night is for you. The other worst hotel is Los Limones in Coatepec. This is a beautiful place, with lemon trees, lots of birds, friendly staff, and several swimming pools. The thing that makes it unbearable is the dog that barks at anything that moves between midnight and 6am. And a surprising number of things move in the wee hours. But cheap: 65 pesos/night.
Most Beautiful Hotel: The Camino Real in Oaxaca. This place is a converted convent that has been lovingly restored. It has a pool and folkloric dancing two or three nights a week that you can enjoy if you’re not too obvious about it and you’re not a guest. Rooms start at 700 pesos/night.
Biggest Lesson Learned: DON’T GET SICK IN A SMALL TOWN. Lots of people have enthused about the quality of medical care in Mexico. While this may be true in some places, it’s not universal. I went to the hospital in Coatepec with an ear infection, and they didn’t even have a little lighted gizmo with which to look into my ear! Other equipment could charitably be called antique.
Best Scenery: I was continually enchanted by the scenery in Mexico. The place that I found most dramatic and beautiful, however, was the mountains just north of Oaxaca, which I enjoyed from the bus window on the ride from Puebla.
Not to be Missed: The winter home of the Monarch Butterflies in Angangueo. Take the 400-peso tour from Morelia. Take the cheaper, 230-peso tour at your peril. There are many good reasons for the difference in price.
Women Travelling Alone: IMHO, yes, it’s safe. There are some women, and men too, who wouldn’t go to a movie alone, let alone to Mexico. If that’s you, go with a friend. If you like your own company, then by all means travel alone in Mexico. Exercise caution (as you would anywhere else), and you should be as safe as you would be anywhere else, and safer than in many places. Remember that, by and large, Mexicans are friendly, helpful people.
If you have any comments or questions, write to me at maureen@igs.net.