End of year holidays in small Mexican towns have a very special meaning. Folks come home. Milking cows and growing corn or coffee isn't everybody's idea of making a good living, so they try to realize their golden dream and head for the cities, but Christmastime and Mother's Day call them back home.
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Life in the mountains may be the secret of longevity. It is not uncommon for mountain folks to live past their nineties and complete more than a century on this earth. Country folks usually eat what they grow on their ranches. Corn plays such a fundamental role in the Mexican diet, as well as beans, chilies, tomatoes and onions.
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In Talpa de Allende, there is a neighborhood girl who calls me her quasi-godmother. We have studied English together for the past few summers, but I find her attention span jumping about like a monkey....
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In Talpa, we have tianguis or street markets. Every two weeks, venders come from Guadalajara with their trucks loaded with fresh vegetables and fruit, herbs, ornate plants, cell phones, hair dryers and CD players. We can buy a galvanized milk can or rubber boots to wear in the milking lot. There are clay bean pots, stone metates for grinding the spices for savory salsas and machetes to clear the path through the woods.
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Quite by accident, I recently ran across a website that lists Talpa de Allende as a sacred power place. Martin Gray spent years visiting and photographing every place he heard was a sacred site, and one of his pilgrimages brought him to Mexico. Apparently, there are different types of sacred sites. Martin classifies Talpa as "miracle-work site."
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I shall never forget the two trips we made to the seashore from Talpa.
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She talked about the Cristero War (1926-1929) as if it were yesterday.
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In 1985, there were four Americans living in Talpa. Guy and Bill invited a small group living in Puerto Vallarta to share a weekend with them. The flight usually was about eighteen minutes long, but when folks used to ask me about the flying time, my answer was, "Long enough to say ten Our Fathers and fifteen Hail Marys, if you pray fast."
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When he took the first sip of his nectar, Guy thought he could hear the angels sing.
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There are secrets to all this pageantry that everybody doesn't know.
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Many of you know August is the month when Talpa de Allende's image of the Virgin begins walking the back roads, visiting and blessing the ranches, cattle, crops, ponds and creeks along the way. She is accompanied by her devotees for six weeks on this summer trek.<
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Families in Mexico tend to be numerous. I know about big families. I come from one.
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What no one was aware of was that, subtly, Guy and Bill were changing the ideals of the future leaders of a Mexico mountain village. Try Guy's Guy's Gringo Chile Relleno Casserole recipe.
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Wedding traditions vary all over the world and Mexico is no exception. Canada and the United States are such international melting pots that we may see Asian, African or English customs demonstrated in the same ceremony. The same is true in Mexico. Margarita wore her wedding veil over a large white velvet sombrero.
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If you have something in your eye, take a hair from the tail of a live cat ....
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The
charro wears a special suit, like none I've ever seen on Billy the Kid or John Wayne. The
escaramuza wears her own beautiful attire; she rides and performs side-saddle.
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There was no human intervention in the restoration of the image and, if history can be believed, the transformation had to be supernatural, divine or spontaneous combustion mixed with staunch faith.
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One of my favorite antiques is a live doll. Last month she celebrated a century plus one year.
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Every Sunday in Mexico is Father's Day.
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Blanca and Maria are sisters. Blanca owns and operates a souvenir stand upstairs from the public market, just off the main plaza in Talpa de Allende. She has a young daughter. Maria owns and operates a beauty shop, and is expecting her first child.
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They are called romerías or peregrinaciones, and the people who make them are usually called peregrinos. They are pilgrims coming to pay homage to Our Lady of the Rosary of Talpa, and they come by the thousands at this time of the year. It is best to buy shoes one size too big, and fill them up with extra socks when you start.
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