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Bennie García

Oct 5, 2010, 1:19 PM

Post #1 of 19 (9699 views)

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Jalisco cuisine not traditional

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Crema de elote with charred chile poblano and homemade raviolis de huitlacoche. All fresh ingredients. Exquisite. So much flavor and texture from so few ingredients. Pepe Le Pew can call it unsophisticated peasant food and scoff all he wants. He ain't getting any anyway.





tashby

Oct 5, 2010, 5:20 PM

Post #2 of 19 (9675 views)

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Re: [Bennie García] Jalisco cuisine not traditional

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Crema de elote with charred chile poblano and homemade raviolis de huitlacoche.


Damn. That sounds (and looks) like a spectacular combination. Stuffing ravioli with huitlacoche = inspired. I wish I knew how to cook.


esperanza

Oct 5, 2010, 8:45 PM

Post #3 of 19 (9657 views)

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Re: [Bennie García] Jalisco cuisine not traditional

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Absolutely gorgeous, Sr. Garcia. Thanks for posting the photo!




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Peter


Oct 5, 2010, 11:48 PM

Post #4 of 19 (9643 views)

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Re: [Bennie García] Jalisco cuisine not traditional

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Very pretty. Interesting, I hadn't thought of huitlacoche to stuff ravioli. Do you add onion, chile, egg, or anything with it in the ravioli? It takes the elote theme a step further using the huitlacoche.

I applaud the fusion effort. You seem to have even won over Esperanza who often views fusion foods with disdain.


Bennie García

Oct 6, 2010, 5:36 AM

Post #5 of 19 (9639 views)

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Re: [Peter] Jalisco cuisine not traditional

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Very pretty. Interesting, I hadn't thought of huitlacoche to stuff ravioli. Do you add onion, chile, egg, or anything with it in the ravioli? It takes the elote theme a step further using the huitlacoche.

I applaud the fusion effort. You seem to have even won over Esperanza who often views fusion foods with disdain.


You mean it isn't cocina de autor??!! ¡Qué desilusión!

Segun mi esposa the huitlacoche was sauteed with onion, chile verde and epazote.


Peter


Oct 6, 2010, 5:57 AM

Post #6 of 19 (9636 views)

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Re: [Bennie García] Jalisco cuisine not traditional

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Your wife definitely has a flair and natural talent in the kitchen. How lucky you are!


esperanza

Oct 6, 2010, 6:52 AM

Post #7 of 19 (9628 views)

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Re: [Peter] Jalisco cuisine not traditional

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Peter, there is fusion and then there is fusion, and disdain is a very strong word for what I feel about the kind of fusion you and I have disagreed about in the past.

I think that the sort of fusion that creates bizarre clashes of cuisines--like topping a corunda with horseradish sauce, for example--is simply creating confusion, not fusion.

A wheat flour dumpling, by whatever name you want to call it, doesn't clash with anything in Sra. Garcia's recipe. Wheat flour is a normal ingredient of many Mexican dishes. To stuff a dumpling (in this case called a ravioli) with huitlacoche is a terrific idea, similar in concept to the pasta served with huitlacoche sauce that a chef friend prepares in his extraordinary alta cocina mexicana DF restaurant.

Three cheers for la Sra. Garcia, la autora!




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Peter


Oct 6, 2010, 8:54 AM

Post #8 of 19 (9616 views)

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Re: [esperanza] Jalisco cuisine not traditional

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Peter, there is fusion and then there is fusion, and disdain is a very strong word for what I feel about the kind of fusion you and I have disagreed about in the past.

I think that the sort of fusion that creates bizarre clashes of cuisines--like topping a corunda with horseradish sauce, for example--is simply creating confusion, not fusion.

I've never heard of such a thing, but now that you suggest it I could see how adding rabano picante to a sauce to be applied to a corunda might be tastefelly done. I can't see myself rushing off to the kitchen to whip some up but there may come a day. Thanks for the suggestion.


A wheat flour dumpling, by whatever name you want to call it, doesn't clash with anything in Sra. Garcia's recipe. Wheat flour is a normal ingredient of many Mexican dishes. To stuff a dumpling (in this case called a ravioli) with huitlacoche is a terrific idea, similar in concept to the pasta served with huitlacoche sauce that a chef friend prepares in his extraordinary alta cocina mexicana DF restaurant.

Or a fried wheat flour dumpling stuffed with chicharrón, cebolla, and repollo then accompanied by a chile agridulce salsa? Perhaps it was the Asian-style presentation (eggroll) but I believe that was one of the dishes you scorned so vehemently that was prepared for a Mexican-Asian food festival held here locally.

The other dish I prepared for that same festival used some of the same ingredients but was a Mexican-style presentation of a traditional chile relleno stuffed with queso and the chicharrón filling I used for the eggrolls, the Asian twist was using the same chile agridulce salsa for a topping. I know, ¿cómo me atrevo? The ideas were supposed to be a bit humorous and somewhat of a stretch but no one trying them complained, to the contrary.

Anyone following these threads can decide for themselves if "disdain" is too strong a word or not. Being on the receiving end of it I think not. Now, one concoction I mentioned on this site, as a joke, I hope no one ever tries making, and you would not be alone in considering it horrible and outlandish - a coctail made wit Bailey's and Kahlua topped with a splash of tomato juice that I dubbed a "Bloody Stool."

My hat is off to Sra. García and her Sopa Ravioli. I have already shown the photo to Tere and gave her the additional details supplied by Sr. García. We both think it looks and sounds great and will probably try our own variation in the near future.

More and more we have a global community and popular foods from other lands become more prevalent in our diets. And as different cultures add their own touches a natural "fusion" takes place. The only ones who can complain are some "food purists" who for some reason have a bias about a mixing of cultures, on those who insist their cooks require a certain pedigree in order to experiment. Others who may complain are those who try something but for one reason or another do not like it, but they never needed a particular pass to have an informed opinion.

Sra. García produces what in best words probably should be described as a ravioli. What word in Mexican cuisine best fits this sort of "dumpling"?


Bennie García

Oct 6, 2010, 10:46 AM

Post #9 of 19 (9599 views)

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Re: [Peter] Jalisco cuisine not traditional

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I don't view pastas as foreign to Mexican cooking. They are every bit a part of daily Mexican food as cooked at home. The ubiquitous sopa de fideos is a good example. Also frequently found in a comida corrida.

And one of my and my kids favorite side dishes at home was a sopa de macarron con crema de jitomate topped with queso fresco. Plenty of carbs for growing children.


Peter


Oct 6, 2010, 12:47 PM

Post #10 of 19 (9589 views)

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Re: [Bennie García] Jalisco cuisine not traditional

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I don't disagree with that at all. In my observation, not sure of its original source, fideo is a part of even the most traditional of Mexican kitchens. Many of the locals I know eat a variety of foods from various origins. Spaghetti is quite ubiquitous but that name is not applied soley to the Italian tomato sauce version usually associated with it NOB but found in a variety of styles. I find one needs to be specific about the type of spaghetti they order if they have any expectations about what they may get.

A close friend's wife here in Morelia is sister to the owner of Moderna in Toluca; they are seemingly the number one pasta producers in this part of Mexico, the lone brand I consistently find even in the tiniest of tiendas here. So I need no convincing that pasta is part of the Mexican diet - that family doesn't exactly have one foot in the poorhouse from being manufacturers of a product that doesn't sell.

Not too long back I bought a pasta maker here and have a lot of fun with it. A WORLD of foods have opened up to what I can produce with it from Italian pastas, eggroll and wonton wrappers, filo dough, to galletas that I can make look pretty fancy with a krinkle cutter. All it takes is a little modification of the pasta formula and some shaping to create or re-create foods from all over.

I am not in particular an avid proponent of fusion foods but as the world becomes a smaller place through rapid communications and transportation we see these fusions happening in the kitchen with little thought given to these being bold steps.

A few months back I was invited to take part in a potluck gathering in this part of Michoacán where the theme was Asian/Mexican Fusion foods. I had fun with it and reported here what Tere and myself brought to the gathering. In my last post on this thread I described the foods we took there; I believe they were somewhat imaginative but not especially outlandish, nevertheless I came under attack by our resident food expert ostensibly for desecrating a national brand.

In recent weeks there was a discussion about Lakeside's up and coming young 5-star chef with particular lip sevice given about how he would not stoop to cheap fusion tricks in his preparations. Well, there is something to be said for authenticity if that is one's goal but to really make a mark in the food world I would suggest one might be open to some innovative ideas. I believe your wife's ravioli is a good example of that type of food innovation. While I am not suggesting pasta is foreign to the Mexican diet I believe that ravioli is a good adaptation of fusion ideas. I cannot think of an example of traditional Mexican fare that provides a word that would be more descriptive of that dish than "ravioli" and I was asking for such a food word.

I daresay that in a few years one may dine in Guadalajara restaurant of a Sopa Elote con Pasta de Huitlacoche and it will be considered traditional Jalisco cuisine. There may even be an original name for Mexican dumplings by then.


cbviajero

Oct 8, 2010, 9:53 AM

Post #11 of 19 (9505 views)

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Re: [Bennie García] Jalisco cuisine not traditional

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I live in gdl and have wanted to try huitlacoche but have´nt seen it in tianguis or supermarkets,any ideas on where to find it?
the crema looks very good.
Thanks Chris


Casa

Oct 8, 2010, 10:26 AM

Post #12 of 19 (9499 views)

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Re: [cbviajero] Jalisco cuisine not traditional

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Costco carries it in cans. I have also seen it fresh at Mercado Corona and San Juan de Dios.


Rolly


Oct 8, 2010, 10:43 AM

Post #13 of 19 (9498 views)

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Re: [Casa] Jalisco cuisine not traditional

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You're not likely to find fresh at times other than during or just before corn harvest.
In many parts of México, it happens twice each year.

Rolly Pirate

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On Facebook as Rolly Brook


esperanza

Oct 8, 2010, 11:34 AM

Post #14 of 19 (9487 views)

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Re: [cbviajero] Jalisco cuisine not traditional

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Try the Tianguis del Sol on Wednesday, Friday, or Sunday.




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Bennie García

Oct 8, 2010, 11:52 AM

Post #15 of 19 (9483 views)

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Re: [esperanza] Jalisco cuisine not traditional

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Mercado de Abastos, Tianguis del Sol, Mercado Santa Tere.

Do not use canned.


(This post was edited by Bennie García on Oct 8, 2010, 11:53 AM)


esperanza

Oct 8, 2010, 2:09 PM

Post #16 of 19 (9468 views)

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Re: [Bennie García] Jalisco cuisine not traditional

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Do not use canned.

Amen to that.




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Peter


Oct 8, 2010, 3:31 PM

Post #17 of 19 (9459 views)

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Re: [esperanza] Jalisco cuisine not traditional

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In Reply To
Do not use canned.

Amen to that.

The canned stuff looks and tastes a lot like black creamed corn.


cbviajero

Oct 9, 2010, 8:02 AM

Post #18 of 19 (9417 views)

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Re: [Bennie García] Jalisco cuisine not traditional

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Thanks everyone for your replies,I think I'll try the mercado de abastos,I had seen it in cans at costco but wanted to try the fresh stuff.


Anonimo

Oct 9, 2010, 12:43 PM

Post #19 of 19 (9396 views)

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Re: [cbviajero] Jalisco cuisine not traditional

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I saw it fresh, yesterday in Pátzcuaro's mercado, but that doesn't do you much good if you are in Jalisco.

Saludos,
Anonimo
 
 
 
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