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Nancy Boyd

Oct 5, 2004, 10:54 PM

Post #1 of 9 (5430 views)

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Water proofing an underground casita

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I guess the bottom line is "Is it possible?" Our neighbor's casita, like ours that is being built, is under his terrace and surrounded by dirt on three sides. After three years he is having major leaks. Is it possible to use a product to waterproof during the construction process to keep the casita dry for many years? Please give names of products, methods of application and people knowledgeable about the process. Many thanks.



Esteban

Oct 6, 2004, 6:13 AM

Post #2 of 9 (5422 views)

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Re: [Nancy Boyd] Water proofing an underground casita

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Not every situation is the same so it depends on exactly where the water is coming from. Is it ground water? Is it some kind of under ground spring? However, do some research on French Drain systems. BEFORE you backfill a wall, the wall is treated with exterior concrete sealer. Then, at the bottom of the footing, a 4 " perforated pipe is set on a bed of at least 6" of gravel. The wall is then backfilled with gravel. The perforated pipe follows the footing to where it can drain on the low side of the home. The roof system should include a method of drainage that will send the water AWAY from the walls. The landscape design should be made so that all water coming near the home walls, drains AWAY from the house. In other words slope the outside ground AWAY from the walls. It is almost impossible to seal a wall from the inside AFTER the building has been built. Most sealing products will not handle the hydrostatic pressure from the water outside the wall especially after it has permeated the wall and found it's way into the interior of the building.


Nancy Boyd

Oct 6, 2004, 9:07 AM

Post #3 of 9 (5407 views)

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Re: [Esteban] Water proofing an underground casita

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Thank you Esteban for your reply. I don't think I was clear in my first post. The casita has dirt against three walls to the roof and the roof is under a terrace. So this casita is subterrainean except for one side that has sliding glass doors.

Is there any hope of making it waterproof? Sure wish we had made it free standing, but it is too late for that now.


Esteban

Oct 6, 2004, 2:59 PM

Post #4 of 9 (5387 views)

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Re: [Nancy Boyd] Water proofing an underground casita

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Sorry to tell you this but the same rules apply. If you want to seal the walls FOR SURE, the only way I am aware of, and I worked with lots of homes that had similar problems in the rainy Pacific Northwest, you will have to dig out the dirt around your walls and do as I have suggested above. It may sound like a horrendous task but it's really not that bad. Get some bids, get an engineer to verify the plans and see what comes up.

Good Luck,
Esteban


Papirex


Oct 6, 2004, 5:42 PM

Post #5 of 9 (5378 views)

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Re: [Nancy Boyd] Water proofing an underground casita

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Esteban has told you the only way that you can be assured that the walls will be waterproof. Since the casita is underground, the roof must be waterproofed too. Anything you put on the walls from the inside will just be a temporary patch, and will eventually fail, if it works at all. The drainage pipe around the building is extremely important. I spent my life in the construction industry, and anything underground is entirely different than above ground construction. It usually requires some engineering for the specific location. Remember, an architect is not an engineer.

We used to live in Alaska. Many houses up there have what is called locally a “daylight basement.” That is a basement that is only half underground, and half above ground. There are a couple of reasons for building them that way. It allows you to have windows in the basement, and it reduces the likelihood that the walls will leak as the hydrostatic pressure on them is less than it would be if they were fully underground. It is also good practice, and required by some building codes nob to put a waterproof membrane under any floor slab that is poured on grade (on the ground.)

There are a few contractors in Anchorage that have a specialty of waterproofing those walls when they start leaking, as many building contractors will take the shortcut of not waterproofing them during the house’s construction phase.. I have seen them do it, after they excavate them, they mop the outside of the walls with what looks like roofing tar. It may be coal tar, I don’t know, they look the same. Coal tar is different chemically, more brittle, and more permanent. It is extremely important that the outside of the walls be thoroughly cleaned before any waterproofing is applied, otherwise it will probably not bond to the walls and may fail. If the walls are rough stone, or brick, and were not plastered, it will be more difficult to apply an effective coat of waterproofing.

We leased a house our first year here in Cuernavaca that had a maids quarters built in to a hillside. The back wall leaked lots of water during the rainy season. For geologic reasons the only solution I could see was to destroy the casita, and rebuild it correctly. We didn’t have a live in Maid, and only used it as a guest room. I would never buy any house in Mexico that had anything underground unless I knew the builder, or could see pictures of the house under construction.

If it were me, I would break up the terrace as needed, do the excavation and waterproof the walls and roof now. It won’t be any easier, or cheaper to do it later. There are a lot of the laws of physics that should be understood before attempting any building project. Even something as simple as a house. Many do it yourself builders are unaware of them, or ignore them. You can ignore all the laws of physics if you want to. One thing you can bet the rent on, is that the laws of physics will not ignore your project.

Rex



"The supreme happiness of life is the conviction that we are loved" - Victor Hugo

(This post was edited by RexC on Oct 6, 2004, 7:54 PM)


Cynthia7

Oct 6, 2004, 9:56 PM

Post #6 of 9 (5352 views)

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Re: [RexC] Water proofing an underground casita

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We have a house that has a room that is completely underground. We had water leaking from the channels they had made for the electric plugs. An architect sent his man over with waterproofing sealer and so far = no leaks. I don't know what it was but it has been 8 years and no problems. I would keep asking around and see if their isn't a solution.


El Gringo Nuevo

Oct 7, 2004, 7:15 AM

Post #7 of 9 (5334 views)

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Re: [Cynthia7] Water proofing an underground casita

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I'm only a weekend builder but I've had water challenges in my home here in Vancouver, WA. We live in an area where 10 lots directly feed water to my lot where we all have a huge strata of clay what seems to have an absorbation value of zip. Surface water runs fast on some days and faster on others during a rain. French drains have done wonders in redirecting water away from my foundation. The foundation is certainly a candidate for failure if it is exposed to water, seasonal drying out, then water again. It is my belief if you plug up your electrical channels, you're only backing up the water that will find some other weak path and eventually do damage elsewhere. The last few posters are certainly correct in my view in that the flow of water has to be correct from step one or physics will always win in the end.


Nancy Boyd

Oct 7, 2004, 11:22 AM

Post #8 of 9 (5318 views)

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Re: [El Gringo Nuevo] Water proofing an underground casita

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Thanks to all who have replied to my concern. These messages are very helpful.


mkdutch

Oct 20, 2004, 9:04 AM

Post #9 of 9 (5261 views)

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Re: [Nancy Boyd] Water proofing an underground casita

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Just a couple of other thoughts - the advice you have been given is excellent - First, after the excavation (or demolition, if you decide to do it) has been done, and a perforated drain/gravel has been placed at the low point(s), using a sheet of rubberized roofing material to wrap the structure (with overlapping, sealed any joints) could provide an efffective barrier. This material is the type used to cover flat, built-up roofs. Isn't cheap, but should last a long time. Second, consider back-filling to only 1/2 of the height of the wall and provide surface drainage at that height, ala the Alaska solution - this might also give you an opportunity to break out additional windows for better natural light and ventilation. Regardless, you've got a challenge - Buena Suerte!.........Dutch
 
 
 
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