Mexico Connect
Forums > Specific Focus > Home, Garden & Construction in Mexico
First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All


johninajijic

Sep 13, 2010, 10:54 AM

Post #1 of 30 (3321 views)

Shortcut

Exterior Painting Information

Can't Post | Private Reply
This information comes from my 9 years of living here, my own personal experience and advice from two of the “best” Painting Contractors in the Ajijic area.

Specifications for Painting your House
1. Scrape and wire brush off all loose and flaking paint.

2. Power wash entire house to remove loose paint, mildew, etc and generally clean
chalked paint
aa
3. Fill all cracks and make repairs.

4. Prime entire house with Prisa PROMETAL or Fester Festerbond. Do not prime
exterior with the old method of using Sealer, White cement and white paint as it will
bleed through the final coats of paint and peel.

5. Paint 2 or 3 full coats of paint as it comes from the can. It may be thinned 10% with
Clean purified water. If your Contractor wants to thin it, give him a 2.0 litre soda bottle
of clean purified water from your tap per 5 gallon (19 liter) bucket.
Absolutely no more water than that.

6. Paint finish coats using a 5” or 6” brush or thick nap roller ONLY, NOT A CEPILLIO.
A cepillo does not put on enough of a paint film for durability.

7. Refinishing your wood beams on your Terrace or overhangs: Choose your stain color
and ask your Contractor to mix your stain with Pentadragon or Pentaprisa.
This is a clear solution wood product that kills termites.

8. Refinishing your Metal Gates, Doors, Garage, etc: The surfaces must be sanded with
fine sandpaper first, like 220 wet/dry. Choose your color in an “Esmalte”paint, (oil base)
in either Semi Gloss or Gloss. You can have your Contractor do this two ways, either
by putting on a Red Oxide rust preventative primer first, then 2 finish coats of paint. Or
you can have him purchase the paint with the Rust Preventative built in. It’s better to
use the rust preventative separately, but not necessary unless rust is showing.

9. Ask your contractor for a 3 - 5 year Guarantee.


Note: Only use COMEX Vinimex paint or PRISA Poliprisa paint. It has a satinado finish. Matte finish paints are a little cheaper and do not last. Forget using inferior products like Tonal or Sherwin Williams. My house was painted 5 years ago with COMEX VINIMEX paint and still looks excellent.



(This post was edited by Rolly on Sep 14, 2010, 7:13 AM)



YucaLandia


Sep 14, 2010, 7:09 AM

Post #2 of 30 (3285 views)

Shortcut

Re: [johninajijic] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

Can't Post | Private Reply
Johninajijic,
Thanks for the good information.

Newbies to Mexico should realize that John's advice may not work in other areas and other states in Mexico. The ambient weather conditions in Yucatán, Chiapas, Vera Cruz, (and desert states in the north?) and building methods & materials are different enough between regions that each area has its own special requirements that good local contractors know.

e.g. Does Agijic have lots of mamposteria construction made with very alkaline karst limestone? We also have big issues here in Yucatán with rising damp coming up into walls that do not have a vapor barrier between the wall and the foundation = special needs & materials that your advice does not cover. The dynoflagellates (moh) that grow universally here on sun-exposed sections of our exterior walls are also likely not an issue in Ajijic?

Heat reflecting paints may also be important in Mexican desert areas and steamy Yucatán?

This is similar to the USA, where painting, insulation, roofing etc practices that work well in the high altitudes of snowy Colorado don't work so well in Houston, and vice versa.
steve
- -
-
Read-on MacDuff
E-visit at http://yucalandia.wordpress.com/


johninajijic

Sep 14, 2010, 7:34 AM

Post #3 of 30 (3268 views)

Shortcut

Re: [YucaLandia] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

Can't Post | Private Reply

In Reply To
Johninajijic,
Thanks for the good information.

Newbies to Mexico should realize that John's advice may not work in other areas and other states in Mexico. The ambient weather conditions in Yucatán, Chiapas, Vera Cruz, (and desert states in the north?) and building methods & materials are different enough between regions that each area has its own special requirements that good local contractors know.

e.g. Does Agijic have lots of mamposteria construction made with very alkaline karst limestone? We also have big issues here in Yucatán with rising damp coming up into walls that do not have a vapor barrier between the wall and the foundation = special needs & materials that your advice does not cover. The dynoflagellates (moh) that grow universally here on sun-exposed sections of our exterior walls are also likely not an issue in Ajijic?

Heat reflecting paints may also be important in Mexican desert areas and steamy Yucatán?

This is similar to the USA, where painting, insulation, roofing etc practices that work well in the high altitudes of snowy Colorado don't work so well in Houston, and vice versa.
steve
Regarding YucLandia's comments about paint. Comex and Prisa paints are manufactured in Mexico for all of the states in Mexico regardless of weather conditions. We have rain and heat in Ajijic too. The Yucatan and Merida have much more humidity so I can believe they have more paint problems. Also, we have salitre issues in the Lakeside area. but I'm sure the Yucatan, Merida and coastal areas have much, much more. Mist salitre issues are from poor construction and there's no shortage of that in Mexico or Latin America. YucLandia relates painting, insulation and roofing practices in Colorado to being different from Houston, when in fact all American manufacturers products are used thruout America in the same way. Example: you need fibreglass or sprayed foam insulation inside the walls in both areas. Fibreglass shingles are used in both areas as well as rubber roofs on commercial buildings in both areas. The same paint is used in both areas.



(This post was edited by johninajijic on Sep 14, 2010, 7:35 AM)


johninajijic

Sep 15, 2010, 7:31 AM

Post #4 of 30 (3216 views)

Shortcut

Re: [johninajijic] Exterior Painting Information

Can't Post | Private Reply
Please note these two "best" painters at Lakeside who really "Guarantee" their work.

PAINTING - 5 YEAR GUARANTEE - THE BEST ****
ENRIQUE PINEDA (Speaks perfect English)
Home: 766 4097
Cell ph: 045 333 440 6364

PAINTING
RUBEN “CHINO” CHAVARRIA (Speaks English)
(He has done work for myself and 10 of us in Los Arroyos Sur)
Francisco Villa # 11 - Ajijic
Tel: 766 2327
Cell ph: 045 333 150 9031
See his new website: www.elchinoajijic.com


YucaLandia


Sep 15, 2010, 8:16 AM

Post #5 of 30 (3206 views)

Shortcut

Re: [johninajijic] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

Can't Post | Private Reply
Hi John,
'Also, we have salitre issues in the Lakeside area. but I'm sure the Yucatan, Merida and coastal areas have much, much more. Mist salitre issues are from poor construction and there's no shortage of that in Mexico or Latin America."

What are "salitre issues"? Wrong sand or incorrect concrete mix issues?

I think of salitre as sodium and potassium, which really are not issues in Yucatán construction, unless someone uses beach sand to mix their concrete = a big "no-no". Karst limestone is calcium based, so, your guess that we have salitre issues does not seem to fit our conditions, which is the point of my reply:

"YucLandia relates painting, insulation and roofing practices in Colorado to being different from Houston, when in fact all American manufacturers products are used thruout America in the same way."

Colorado high country country construction requirements with steep metal roofs and designs for snow loads are very different froom Houston construction requirements, which are different from Northern desert Mexico states, which are different than Ajijic, which are different than Chiapas, which are different than Yucatán.

The best advice seems to be to contact a good local contractor who knows your area and the local materials and methods. i.e. Berel paint works very well here in Yucatán, at more modest costs than Comex - particularly since we have to paint here more often because of the dynoflagellate/algae growth (moh) on exterior painted surfaces.

Is moh an issue in Ajijic?

Are you a contractor?
Cheers, steve
-
Read-on MacDuff
E-visit at http://yucalandia.wordpress.com/

(This post was edited by YucaLandia on Sep 15, 2010, 8:18 AM)


johninajijic

Sep 15, 2010, 10:43 AM

Post #6 of 30 (3190 views)

Shortcut

Re: [YucaLandia] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

Can't Post | Private Reply
Hi John,
'Also, we have salitre issues in the Lakeside area. but I'm sure the Yucatan, Merida and coastal areas have much, much more. Mist salitre issues are from poor construction and there's no shortage of that in Mexico or Latin America."

What are "salitre issues"? Wrong sand or incorrect concrete mix issues?

I think of salitre as sodium and potassium, which really are not issues in Yucatán construction, unless someone uses beach sand to mix their concrete = a big "no-no". Karst limestone is calcium based, so, your guess that we have salitre issues does not seem to fit our conditions, which is the point of my reply:

Here is the correct explanation of "salitre" from J. Brad Grieve - See his credentials below:

Salitre: a form of masonry cancer?

J. Brad Grieve
Salitre is the Spanish term commonly used for masonry “efflorescence.” Salitre is the white powdery stain that forms on the surface of bricks and concrete and can cause the stucco or paint on a wall or tiles on the floor to lift off. It is a common issue for many homes here at Lake Chapala that are made of bricks, mortar and concrete (masonry elements), which irritates some homeowners while others simply tolerate and maintain it. In extreme cases the cause of salitre can lead to structural problems since the water has effectively washed out the key chemicals that provide the strength in the mortar or bricks themselves or cause oxidation of the reinforcing steel however, in these rare cases the water exposure has been excessive and/or over a long period of time. Typically, the efflorescence problem is more cosmetic rather than destructive. To understand the problem of efflorescence, lets discuss the science of what is happening. Water in the masonry element (mortar, brick or concrete) dissolves the salts (dissolvable minerals) present in the mixture and transports them to the surface where the water is evaporated and the salts are left behind. Two key elements need to be present for the efflorescence to appear: dissolvable calcium salts and water.

The salts in bricks, mortar and concrete are present in varying degrees however, these salts are more common in construction in Mexico since albañiles (bricklayers) like to use “ cal” (Lime: Calcium Oxide), which works as a plasticiizer to increase the workability of the mortar and the ultimate hardness of the mortar. The “Cal” does provide some benefits for the bricklayer and the final product, however this is the primary source of salts that cause efflorescence.

The second element that causes efflorescence is water. The water can be from many sources including leaking pipes, garden over spray but primarily is from ground water and rainwater. Small leaks in the roof will infiltrate the roof structure to ultimately cause the efflorescence on the interior ceiling. Moisture from below grade will be drawn up from below by capillary action commonly called “wicking.” The wicking action is supported by the evaporation at the surface of the wall or floor.
It sounds simple -- all we have to eliminate is the water and/or the amount of salts in the masonry materials and we have solved our salitre problems. It is difficult to eliminate all the salts available in the all the masonry materials, therefore the problem is to address the source of water. However, this can be difficult, of course, since all of our homes are exposed to the natural environment, which includes rain, and our homes are built on the ground where moisture naturally occurs. So care needs to be taken to determine the correct location and source of water that is causing the efflorescence to minimize and hopefully eliminate this root cause of the problem.

Some sources of water have been leaks in the roof, however investigation should be done to identify the correct source, which could be multiple. On inclined roofs the efflorescence stain may occur downhill from the source of the leak on the roof and not directly above the stain. Salitre on walls may be caused by rain on the exposed exterior of the wall or from a leak on the roof or parapet that finds a route to percolate down the wall to a point where it can escape and evaporate. However, the water may be wicking up the wall from a source below the floor such as a leaking pipe or aljibe, or simply the floor slab has direct contact with the soil below. Various solutions to minimize or eliminate the water source include metal flashing, waterproofing the surface with a impermeable paint material or simple providing adequate drainage to keep the water away and prevent it from contacting the masonry material.

Whenever cleaning an efflorescence stain, a mild acid solution should be used. First wash the affected area with water and then scrub the area with the mild acid solution. A final washing with water will help neutralize any latent acid that is still on the masonry surface. Allow the area to dry and wait before painting to assure that the efflorescence does not return. It is also recommended to paint an alkyd primer to better adhere to the surface and resist peeling off again.

Published or Updated on: February 14, 2008 by J. Brad Grieve © 2008
Contact J. Brad Grieve

J. Brad Grieve is a professional civil engineer who has lived and worked in the Lake Chapala area since 1994. He is the owner of Ajijic Home Inspections and you can be reach him by phone: (376) 766-2836 or e-mail.

"YucLandia relates painting, insulation and roofing practices in Colorado to being different from Houston, when in fact all American manufacturers products are used thruout America in the same way."


Colorado high country country construction requirements with steep metal roofs and designs for snow loads are very different froom Houston construction requirements, which are different from Northern desert Mexico states, which are different than Ajijic, which are different than Chiapas, which are different than Yucatán.

The best advice seems to be to contact a good local contractor who knows your area and the local materials and methods. i.e. Berel paint works very well here in Yucatán, at more modest costs than Comex - particularly since we have to paint here more often because of the dynoflagellate/algae growth (moh) on exterior painted surfaces.

Is moh an issue in Ajijic?

"In general moh (Algae growth) is not a problem on houses Lakeside, unless there is an area that doesn't receive sun, such as a walkway between houses."
John - johninajijic

Are you a contractor?

Cheers, steve


"No, I'm not a contractor, but have I have supervised the construction of 4 houses in my gated community for various owners. I learned about Mexican construction from the builder, his Maestro and the construction workers. I have learned a lot from my contractor who is the best in Ajijic, 27 years in business guaranteeing everything he does. I mean a true guarantee."

John - johninajijic


Rolly / Moderator


Sep 15, 2010, 11:30 AM

Post #7 of 30 (3181 views)

Shortcut

Re: [johninajijic] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

Can't Post | Private Reply
...albañiles (bricklayers) like to use “ cal” (Lime: Calcium Oxide)...

No doubt that is a misprint. Cal is calcium hydroxide. Other common names are builders' lime and slaked lime.
In addition to its uses in building, it is used in many industrial processes including the making of hominy and tortillas.
It is made from calcium oxide which is also sometimes called lime, but more commonly quicklime.

Rolly Pirate

E-visit me http://Rollybrook.com
On Facebook as Rolly Brook


sparks


Sep 15, 2010, 12:31 PM

Post #8 of 30 (3166 views)

Shortcut

Re: [YucaLandia] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

Can't Post | Private Reply
Assuming mold was the question it must be a regional issue. Mold is moho around here

Drainage on this lot is not good producing lots of mold in one room. So bad the wood in the closets are turning green.

Yes ... Lakeside area

Sparks Mexico - Sparks Costalegre


(This post was edited by sparks on Sep 15, 2010, 12:32 PM)


chris cooper

Sep 15, 2010, 1:17 PM

Post #9 of 30 (3157 views)

Shortcut

Re: [sparks] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

Can't Post | Private Reply

In Reply To
. Mold is moho around here


Mojo


Rolly / Moderator


Sep 15, 2010, 1:28 PM

Post #10 of 30 (3156 views)

Shortcut

Re: [chris cooper] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

Can't Post | Private Reply
My dictionary says mold is moho.
It also says of mojo:
1. culinary (salsa) gravy, juice
2. Bolivia meat and vegetable stew
3. Cuba rum cocktail

Rolly Pirate

E-visit me http://Rollybrook.com
On Facebook as Rolly Brook


chinagringo


Sep 15, 2010, 1:39 PM

Post #11 of 30 (3151 views)

Shortcut

Re: [Rolly] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

Can't Post | Private Reply
Numerous other defintions for mojo:

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=mojo
Regards,
Neil
Albuquerque, NM



(This post was edited by chinagringo on Sep 15, 2010, 3:24 PM)


chris cooper

Sep 15, 2010, 2:32 PM

Post #12 of 30 (3147 views)

Shortcut

Re: [Rolly] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

Can't Post | Private Reply

In Reply To
My dictionary says mold is moho.
It also says of mojo:
1. culinary (salsa) gravy, juice
2. Bolivia meat and vegetable stew
3. Cuba rum cocktail


Hmmm always heard moho used for rust. Maybe my ear didn't catch it correctly. Also hear lama used frequently for mold.


Rolly / Moderator


Sep 15, 2010, 4:18 PM

Post #13 of 30 (3133 views)

Shortcut

Re: [chris cooper] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

Can't Post | Private Reply
Rust is one of the meanings of moho.
Lama is OK for mold, also slime and algae.

Rolly Pirate

E-visit me http://Rollybrook.com
On Facebook as Rolly Brook


chris cooper

Sep 15, 2010, 4:56 PM

Post #14 of 30 (3123 views)

Shortcut

Re: [Rolly] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

Can't Post | Private Reply

In Reply To
Rust is one of the meanings of moho.
Lama is OK for mold, also slime and algae.


Just out of curiosity, are you answering from personal experience or referencing a dictionary?


Rolly / Moderator


Sep 15, 2010, 5:03 PM

Post #15 of 30 (3122 views)

Shortcut

Re: [chris cooper] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

Can't Post | Private Reply
Both. Look here to see some of my background: http://rollybrook.com/building_directory.htm

Rolly Pirate

E-visit me http://Rollybrook.com
On Facebook as Rolly Brook


chris cooper

Sep 15, 2010, 5:22 PM

Post #16 of 30 (3118 views)

Shortcut

Re: [Rolly] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

Can't Post | Private Reply
Interesting. What was the psi of the concrete for the roof?


YucaLandia


Sep 16, 2010, 7:50 AM

Post #17 of 30 (3087 views)

Shortcut

Re: [chris cooper] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

Can't Post | Private Reply
Hi Guys,
Since I lit this fire, maybe I can help douse it.

My understanding is that "moh' appears to be a Maya word (as a corruption of the Spanish moja = mold) for the greenish-black gunk that grows on sun-exposed surfaces in Merida (and Florida).

The stuff looks like mold, but it is actually symbiotic colonies that contain a mix of a dynoflagellate and some algaes.

If the stuff was mold, it wouldn't thrive in either Florida's or our Yucatecan sunshine.

Rolly's right about the cal / quicklime issue: Calcium Oxide, which has very little to do with salitre = potassium and sodium.

Almost all of our efflorescence problems clearly come from rising damp here in Yucatan - where installing a vapor barrier removes the efflorescence problem - while chipping-out & replacing supposedly-salt-laden concrete does not solve the efflorescence problems - they simply return without a vapor barrier = not salt & not salitre & not cal issues.

Different strokes for different folks.
steve
- -
-
Read-on MacDuff
E-visit at http://yucalandia.wordpress.com/


johninajijic

Sep 16, 2010, 10:31 AM

Post #18 of 30 (3074 views)

Shortcut

Re: [YucaLandia] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

Can't Post | Private Reply
YucLandia - Where and how do you install a vapor barrier after your house has been completed? Is that possible?

A lot of "salitre" and general moisture problems in Mexico are from poor quality contstruction. They are avoided in the US and Canada by better construction techniques. I'm willing to bet they don't know what Cal is in the US and Canada as it's not used. It shouldn't be used here either.


Rolly / Moderator


Sep 16, 2010, 10:54 AM

Post #19 of 30 (3067 views)

Shortcut

Re: [johninajijic] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

Can't Post | Private Reply
I'm willing to bet they don't know what Cal is in the US and Canada as it's not used.
That is not true. Cal (calcium hydroxide) is commoly used in the USA.

Here is a excerpt from an article that deals with the subject:
http://www.ehow.com/...ydroxide-cement.html

Use in Construction Industry
  • Calcium hydroxide cement is now almost universally used for structural concrete, for uniting the surfaces of various materials, and for coating surfaces to safeguard them from chemical attack. Since it is an inexpensive alkali, calcium hydroxide has a number of commercial uses, including whitewash, mortar, and other construction materials.


  • Rolly Pirate

    E-visit me http://Rollybrook.com
    On Facebook as Rolly Brook


    (This post was edited by Rolly on Sep 16, 2010, 10:56 AM)


    YucaLandia


    Sep 16, 2010, 11:00 AM

    Post #20 of 30 (3062 views)

    Shortcut

    Re: [johninajijic] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

    Can't Post | Private Reply
    John,
    Quicklime (cal) and sometimes hydrated lime are used in almost all common US and European mixes, as they help the self-healing properties of the concrete. This property has been known and used since Roman times.

    We'll be glad to take your offered to bet:
    "I'm willing to bet they don't know what Cal is in the US and Canada as it's not used. It shouldn't be used here either. "
    -
    So, 18 centuries of concrete practices show that it should be used in Mexico, because adding cal is a good thing that improves self-healing.

    http://www.britishlime.org/lime_con01.php
    http://books.google.com/books?id=wTqMFyczxngC&pg=SA7-PA15&lpg=SA7-PA15&dq=quicklime+for+self-healing+concrete&source=bl&ots=8fIAw8HH1i&sig=3DpLumDen08kWi9c5i0uQ3Esx9E&hl=en&ei=1FiSTIWKPI6isAPvuPHACg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=5&ved=0CCcQ6AEwBA#v=onepage&q=quicklime%20for%20self-healing%20concrete&f=false

    Re your other question: Our local Yuco albiniles deeply chip out the lines of efflorescence along the wall up to about a foot off the floor - since our efflorescene usually occurs in lines along our walls that did not get a vapor barrier installed on the foundation. They then coat the underlying concrete with a petroleum product (I don't remember the name) as a moisture barrier to block further rising damp from coming up from through our slightly porous bedrock.

    When contractors chipping and patching a wall forget to use a vapor barrier to block the rising damp, the efflorescence returns again and again - where I have had 2 patches in our home that actually grew mold 3 inches deep inside the concrete, which is neither salt, nor too wet of a mix, nor salitre.

    We have karst limestone that is typically only 4 - 8 inches below the surface, and our water tables are typically between 8 ft. and 20 ft. down, which are very different conditions from Ajijic - so, we need to do things differently here.
    Cheers, steve
    --
    p.s. Rolly types faster than I do, and he writes more concisely - so, he posted his reply while i was still writing mine - my apologies for inadvertently replying over-top Rolly.
    - -
    -
    Read-on MacDuff
    E-visit at http://yucalandia.wordpress.com/

    (This post was edited by YucaLandia on Sep 16, 2010, 11:16 AM)


    YucaLandia


    Sep 16, 2010, 11:57 AM

    Post #21 of 30 (3050 views)

    Shortcut

    Re: [johninajijic] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

    Can't Post | Private Reply
    Hi John,
    I noticed that I forgot to answer one of your questions:

    "Where and how do you install a vapor barrier after your house has been completed? "
    "Is that possible?
    '

    Yes, it is not only possible, but I simply wrote what has been common practice here for over 40 years.

    Good advice only uses solutions that are possible, so, it seems odd that you would ask.

    cheers, steve
    - -
    -
    Read-on MacDuff
    E-visit at http://yucalandia.wordpress.com/


    YucaLandia


    Sep 16, 2010, 2:52 PM

    Post #22 of 30 (3032 views)

    Shortcut

    Re: [johninajijic] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

    Can't Post | Private Reply
    Hi John,
    I missed another item from your longer post on concrete and walls:

    Steve: "Is moh an issue in Ajijic? "

    John: "In general moh (Algae growth) is not a problem on houses Lakeside, unless there is an area that doesn't receive sun, such as a walkway between houses."
    - -
    To help clear up some confusion here, moh thrives in sunlight, because moh contains algae - and algaes are plants with chlorophyll that convert CO2 to sugars using sunlight. It is still not clear to me if tropical moh can live in Ajijic. Moh is not mold.

    Conversely, shade-loving molds (moho = wall & food mold) are not plants, but in a completely different kingdom, and molds do not tolerate sunlight well.
    This means that the black gunky stuff in shaded walkways is likely a mold (not moh), and black gunky stuff that is out in sunlight is not mold, but instead is moh (a symbiotic shared colony of dynoflagellates and algae).

    Molds and moh on painted surfaces require different solutions, so, it can be important to distinguish between the two.
    cheers, steve
    - -
    -
    Read-on MacDuff
    E-visit at http://yucalandia.wordpress.com/

    (This post was edited by YucaLandia on Sep 16, 2010, 3:45 PM)


    johninajijic

    Sep 16, 2010, 5:04 PM

    Post #23 of 30 (3023 views)

    Shortcut

    Re: [YucaLandia] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

    Can't Post | Private Reply

    In Reply To
    John,
    Quicklime (cal) and sometimes hydrated lime are used in almost all common US and European mixes, as they help the self-healing properties of the concrete. This property has been known and used since Roman times.

    We'll be glad to take your offered to bet:
    "I'm willing to bet they don't know what Cal is in the US and Canada as it's not used. It shouldn't be used here either. "
    -
    So, 18 centuries of concrete practices show that it should be used in Mexico, because adding cal is a good thing that improves self-healing.

    http://www.britishlime.org/lime_con01.php
    http://books.google.com/books?id=wTqMFyczxngC&pg=SA7-PA15&lpg=SA7-PA15&dq=quicklime+for+self-healing+concrete&source=bl&ots=8fIAw8HH1i&sig=3DpLumDen08kWi9c5i0uQ3Esx9E&hl=en&ei=1FiSTIWKPI6isAPvuPHACg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=5&ved=0CCcQ6AEwBA#v=onepage&q=quicklime%20for%20self-healing%20concrete&f=false

    Re your other question: Our local Yuco albiniles deeply chip out the lines of efflorescence along the wall up to about a foot off the floor - since our efflorescene usually occurs in lines along our walls that did not get a vapor barrier installed on the foundation. They then coat the underlying concrete with a petroleum product (I don't remember the name) as a moisture barrier to block further rising damp from coming up from through our slightly porous bedrock.

    When contractors chipping and patching a wall forget to use a vapor barrier to block the rising damp, the efflorescence returns again and again - where I have had 2 patches in our home that actually grew mold 3 inches deep inside the concrete, which is neither salt, nor too wet of a mix, nor salitre.

    We have karst limestone that is typically only 4 - 8 inches below the surface, and our water tables are typically between 8 ft. and 20 ft. down, which are very different conditions from Ajijic - so, we need to do things differently here.
    Cheers, steve
    --
    p.s. Rolly types faster than I do, and he writes more concisely - so, he posted his reply while i was still writing mine - my apologies for inadvertently replying over-top Rolly.
    - -


    Haven't seen Cal used in ANY construction in the US or Canada.

    Vapor Barrier used in Mexico??? Where? I haven't seen it used. Poor construction, for example floors: 3 inches of concrete poured over the top of dirt. No sealer on top of pourous concrete or sealed on back of pourous Barro (Saltillo) tile. Then, tile is laid over the concrete. Vapor barrier, none. Gravel base as used in No America under concrete floor: none. Wire mesh (mia) or rebar set in concrete floor, like No America, none. Poor construction: yes!!! I'm only relating to you what I have seen in Mexico.

    That's why you get salitre into floor tiles. Yet, even with the above construction techniques, not everyone gets salitre thru Barro (saltillo) tile.


    (This post was edited by johninajijic on Sep 16, 2010, 5:16 PM)


    Rolly / Moderator


    Sep 16, 2010, 6:14 PM

    Post #24 of 30 (3016 views)

    Shortcut

    Re: [johninajijic] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

    Can't Post | Private Reply
    You haven't seen it, therefor it doesn't exist. Is that what you are telling us?

    You're pissing into the wind.

    Rolly Pirate

    E-visit me http://Rollybrook.com
    On Facebook as Rolly Brook


    johninajijic

    Sep 16, 2010, 9:50 PM

    Post #25 of 30 (2993 views)

    Shortcut

    Re: [Rolly] EXTERIOR PAINTING INFORMATION

    Can't Post | Private Reply

    In Reply To
    You haven't seen it, therefor it doesn't exist. Is that what you are telling us?

    You're pissing into the wind.

    You mean Cal? If that's what you mean, as I said, never saw it in No American construction. And yes, I've seen No American construction in person and watch HGTV from Canada.
    First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All
     
     
    Search for (advanced search) Powered by Gossamer Forum v.1.2.4