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oregonative

Aug 15, 2013, 2:49 PM

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Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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I plan to visit some colonial cities after a stay in Puerto Vallarta. I've stayed in Guadalajara and Queretaro, and would like to hear of your favorite places in that large area. I will be busing NE from Puerto Vallarta and then will go S to Mexico City afterwards. Of course I've studied travel books, and my map, but I'd like to have first-hand suggestions about the most beautiful or interesting towns. In the past I've always been more interested in archeological zones and have missed the colonial cities (except for DF, Oaxaca, Merida, etc.). I will stay for several days in each city and visit the surrounding area.

RickS

Aug 15, 2013, 3:25 PM

Post #2 of 24 (1282 views)

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Re: [oregonative] Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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Guanajuato would be (is) high on my list. Close by is San Miguel de Allende (if you don't mind bumping into a lot of gringos). Although I have not been to Morelia, it is on my list to do this year. If you get to that area, don't miss Pátzcuaro and some of its surrounds.... Tzintzuntzan, Puacuaro, Erongaricuaro and Santa Clara del Cobre.

Zacatecas City is also nice but I might stay away from there at the moment.

(This post was edited by RickS on Aug 15, 2013, 6:30 PM)

esperanza

Aug 15, 2013, 3:48 PM

Post #3 of 24 (1279 views)

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Re: [RickS] Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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Morelia is a do-not-miss. Gorgeous Centro Histórico, fantastic old pink cantera buildings, marvelous food. Make Morelia your center for exploration in the west-central part of Michoacán. Ask me for recommendations!

http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com

oregonative

Aug 15, 2013, 4:40 PM

Post #4 of 24 (1269 views)

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Re: [RickS] Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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Thx for the info---that is what I was hoping for. Why stay away from Zacatecas?

oregonative

Aug 15, 2013, 4:47 PM

Post #5 of 24 (1266 views)

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Re: [esperanza] Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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I like your idea of headquartering in Morelia. It wasn't on my list to visit because I had read it was heavily industrialized now. I would love to have recommendations from you (and I do follow up when ppl take the time to make suggestions). I know it is not PC, but I have not seen a bullfight yet; isn't this a good area for bullfights?

RickS

Aug 15, 2013, 5:20 PM

Post #6 of 24 (1261 views)

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Re: [oregonative] Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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Well, there are some that would say 'stay away' because there has been some cartel "unrest" in Zacatecas state in general. It's my understanding that 'most' of this activity is NOT prevalent within the City but more in smaller communities to the west of there.

If the truth be known, the state of Michoacan has it share of problems also but I will be going to Morelia in a couple of months unless something really drastic happens there that would keep a prudent traveler away.

One can only do what one thinks is wise. Same can be said for places all over the world including the good ole US of A. I like traveling in Mexico.

Do your research and follow your own guidelight.

YMMV

esperanza

Aug 15, 2013, 5:27 PM

Post #7 of 24 (1261 views)

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Re: [oregonative] Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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Would you believe there is only one industry in Morelia, a paper mill on the farthest south side of town? The rest of Morelia's 'industry' is higher education: there are six or seven colleges and universities in town, which employ many, many teachers from many countries of the world. Tourism is normally the biggest industry in the city...both national and international tourism...so you can imagine the kind of draw it is.

Morelia has an interesting state museum, a museum that is the birthplace of Morelos (one of the fathers of Mexico's 1810 Independence), the Museo del Dulce (candy museum)--a treasure!--to a beautiful public library that was the library of a 16th century Jesuit convent and still holds some of the 16th century books, an ancient and lovely acueduct, and the Palacio Clavijero, that was the Jesuit residence in those days. Morelia is home to the oldest music conservatory in the New World, to a State symphony orchestra, to annual international film, dance, jazz, and organ music festivals, to the Festival Internacional de Música de Morelia (every November), to internationally known restaurants, and to a million other incredible things to do and see.

There are bullfights, but I don't know when the season starts. There's a soccer team, the Monarcas--it's a lot of fun to see a game.

When you're ready to go, send me a PM with your price range and I'll recommend a hotel or two.

http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com

oregonative

Aug 15, 2013, 6:15 PM

Post #8 of 24 (1252 views)

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Re: [esperanza] Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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Thx again to both rickS and esperanza for all the info. During the past year I do remember reading that Morelia is dangerous due to the drug situation, but if I believed everything printed about Mexico, you would all have been kidnapped and held for ransom by now. But that is one of the reasons I wanted to get information from people who really know, so I can be prudent as well as adventurous. I've started a research notebook and will definitely follow up when I get closer to departure and ask about hotels and restaurants. AND the candy museum! Here in Oregon I always have my eye out for tamarindo and cajeta sweets; hard to find in spite of our Hispanic population. The many responses will help me keep up my momentum in planning for this longer-than-usual-for-me trip----my friends don't want to hear another word (as they slog off to work). Now everyone has been to Cancun or Cabo, and that's "Mexico" for them.

La Isla

Aug 15, 2013, 7:13 PM

Post #9 of 24 (1245 views)

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Re: [oregonative] Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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I would recommend Malinalco, a lovely small colonial town about an hour-and-a-half drive from Mexico City in the State of Mexico. In addition to its colonial-era charm, it sits at the foot of a mountain which has a very well-preserved late Aztec temple on its summit. It's an easy walk to the top, which, in addition to the temple gives you a wonderful view of the valley. In the town itself there is a new archaeological museum, a 16th-century Augustinian convent and many small restaurants featuring trout and hand-made tortillas, some of the best I've had in Mexico.

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/mexico/west-of-mexico-city/malinalco

oregonative

Aug 15, 2013, 8:56 PM

Post #10 of 24 (1226 views)

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Re: [La Isla] Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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Your suggestion led me off on the track of Programa Pueblos Magicos, and now I have a whole list of pueblos to research, and Malinalco sounds wonderful.

La Isla

Aug 15, 2013, 9:09 PM

Post #11 of 24 (1225 views)

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Re: [oregonative] Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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It's lovely and makes for a nice day trip from Mexico City.

citlali

Aug 16, 2013, 5:15 AM

Post #12 of 24 (1206 views)

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Re: [oregonative] Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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The bullfight season is in the winter in Mexico and summer in Spain. They usually end and begins in the spring at Easter or on spring festivals , there are bullfights . If you are going to see a bullfight go and and see a famous bullfighter actually you will see several and 6 bulls will be killed. One every 20 minutes or so. If you have never seen one get ready for a gory thing. If you are lucky and the matadores are good they will kill the bulls on the first attempt you may not be ready to see the sword going in and not killing the bull and having them run the bull in the circle to get the sword out and try again.
I was raised goint to every bullfight in the summer with my grand-father and now will not go to one. It is a pretty disguting sport that is now outlawed in Catalonia.

TigerTonio

Aug 16, 2013, 2:57 PM

Post #13 of 24 (1149 views)

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Re: Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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Here's another vote for the city of Guanajuato. And I highly recommend Morelia and Patzcuaro. Good luck! =D

TigerTonio

Aug 16, 2013, 2:59 PM

Post #14 of 24 (1143 views)

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Re: [La Isla] Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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And La Isla, I love your suggestion of Malinalco, too. It's a great place.

oregonative

Aug 16, 2013, 4:49 PM

Post #15 of 24 (1121 views)

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Re: [citlali] Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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You can tell I've read Hemingway, romanticizing bullfighting. Whenever I'm in Mexico I see bullfights on TV, like football in the US, and I would love to see a matador perform. What about the ones in the countryside where they don't kill the bull?

citlali

Aug 16, 2013, 6:41 PM

Post #16 of 24 (1100 views)

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Re: [oregonative] Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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Yes Hemingway made the corridas t sound romantic but then he was into blood sports . He also commited suicide..I have heard that there are some cities in Mexico where they have the run of the bulls but I forgot which ones. That was another one of his favorite...
The charros do not use fighting bulls they are more like rodeos and can be fun. They do not kill the bulls

oregonative

Aug 17, 2013, 3:15 PM

Post #17 of 24 (1001 views)

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Re: [citlali] Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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Could you suggest a place to see a charro? Since I'm traveling from Puerto Vallarta to San Cristobal with many longish stays and detours in between, are they widespread in the Mexican countryside?

citlali

Aug 17, 2013, 5:31 PM

Post #18 of 24 (986 views)

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Re: [oregonative] Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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There are bullfights in San Cristobal for the spring festival around Easter , I do not know about charros down here but there are lots of charros in Jalisco. I could not help you with the dates because I do not go to them as a rule but we have then in Ajijic and Chapala. Someone of the forum may tell you when.
By the way they were 6 people gored in Pamplona this year for the run of the bull and some of them seemed in bad shape, one was an Australian woman and another a 48 year old American.
Cheks out the Ferias in the towns where you will be and chances are that you will have a schedule for bullfights or charros or palenque the cock fighting.
Check the Feria in Aguascalientes I think they are known there for their bullfights. Again I think I I have read that somewhere, people interested in the sport could tell you.
The last corridas I went to was way back in the 60´s when Antonio Ordóñez was one of the best and El Cordobés was the sex symbol for women my age. I saw him get gored twice in Bayonne, he was one of the worst matador ever, a total butcher but once in a while he would be good and I saw him get a tail and two ears. He sure was popular and is still alived at the old ripe age (for a matador) of 77 quite an achievement considering the risks he would take.

Find out who is good now and go and see a good ones, it is gory enough to see 6 bulls killed in an afternoon without having to see a massacre..You can always check out the schedule for Mexico City or Guadalajara or any larger city for bullfights.

esperanza

Aug 17, 2013, 5:38 PM

Post #19 of 24 (986 views)

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Re: [oregonative] Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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Two things: there is a huge difference between the countrified bull games known as jaripeo and the traditional and lovely charrería. In neither of these is a bull sacrificed, but other than that--there really are no similarities.

If you leave Vallarta soon for Guadalajara, you will be in time to go to the National Charro Championships in Tlajomulco de Zúñiga, south of Guadalajara and before you get to Lake Chapala. The dates are September 4 through 8. Here's a link to the website: http://www.mariachi-jalisco.com.mx/

This is truly a DO NOT MISS event. I've been, and I would go again in a heartbeat. The pageantry, the horses, the escaramuza (Spanish word meaning skirmish, but it's all about young women riding sidesaddle on fabulous horses performing incredibly breathtaking maneuvers), the traditions, the clothing, the music, the...well, there is nothing about it I don't like.

Jaripeo is fun, but you'd need to be in a little town and ask around and watch for posters in order to find one happening. Lucking upon one is part of the fun of travel, of course.

http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com

(This post was edited by esperanza on Aug 17, 2013, 5:40 PM)

sparks

Aug 17, 2013, 9:31 PM

Post #20 of 24 (968 views)

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Re: [esperanza] Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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Why can't you make a foto link here .... this sucks

http://sparks-mexico.com/...lides/charreada2.jpg
She was the only female partisipating

Anyway this from a Tlajomulco de Zuniga Charreada we got free tickets to. A small one but we actually felt kinda special to be there. Less that 100 in the crowd

http://sparks-mexico.com/...charreada/index.html

Come on .... get this site up to date !!!!

Sparks Mexico - Sparks Costalegre

esperanza

Aug 17, 2013, 9:56 PM

Post #21 of 24 (962 views)

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Re: [sparks] Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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Sparks, the national charro championships are not your basic hometown boys doing some drills. This is the real deal, just spectacular, with crack teams from everywhere in Mexico competing for the national prize. The national championships are held in various places in the República, changing each year. This is the closest its been to Guadalajara for several years. Last year it was in Zacatecas. Year before that it was in Puebla. Everyone here should see these events, if only once in a lifetime.

Read here before you go, for more information on charrería: http://mexicocooks.typepad.com/...charros-and-cha.html

http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com

(This post was edited by esperanza on Aug 17, 2013, 10:02 PM)

oregonative

Aug 18, 2013, 3:58 PM

Post #22 of 24 (911 views)

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Re: [esperanza] Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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The charreria sounds like what I'm looking for; the one in Guadalajara sounds wonderful. I won't be in Puerto Vallarta until Nov. 1 (I'm planning well ahead). Do you have a suggestion for that time of the year? I hope you don't mind if I start asking you about music, art, and crafts when the time gets closer; you sound very well-versed.

oregonative

Aug 18, 2013, 4:06 PM

Post #23 of 24 (910 views)

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Re: [sparks] Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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I liked your link to Costa Allegre; I read there that Cortes went as far as Tepic; in my study of Mexican history I had never learned that fact. Also, thx for the pic.

fugawibill

Aug 19, 2013, 10:01 AM

Post #24 of 24 (849 views)

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Re: [oregonative] Extensive Open-ended 11/13 Trip: Colonial Cities

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Hello from a fellow native Oregonian, living and RV'ing in Mexico full time. My one can't miss is Guanajuato. Experanza's suggestion of using Morelia as home base is an excellent one. It is a fascinating city, you can get to anywhere in Michoacan, Colonial Mexico is a short trip, and easy to visit Mexico City. I've done alot of research on the areas you're planning to visit, so send me a PM with your email address, and I'll help any way I can. If interested, my trip starting next month, and photos from last year are here: www.picasaweb.google.com/fugawibill