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Hound Dog

Nov 3, 2009, 7:09 PM

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Michoacan Redux

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Dawg reallly dislikes Morelia even though he must admit that its historic center is among the most beautiful in Mexico. Dawg would rate that historic center up there with Queretaro and Puebla and would rate it well above the historic center of Guadalalajara which was compromised by repulsive architectural innovations of the mid- 20th Century. The problem Dawg has with Morelia is that the city is congested, filled with unimpressive residential quarters and, seemingly without a well defined urban plan. Traffic there, as in Oaxaca , is out of control and unbearable. That´s a shame because the historic center is an exquisite example of Spanish colonial architecture. A museum. A treasure.

Michoacan is a big and diverse state and I´m not going there but now I want to talk about Pátzcuaro. A prettier town in North America there probably is not and I am constantly amazed at that amazingly beautiful place but here is what I cannot explain. Pátzcuaro to me is like a fine confection quickly consumed and then gone from the mind. Brightly beautiful, extraordinary, marvelous but then once one has licked the icing off the cake there is no sustainable there there.

What am I missing that makes me think Uruápan is historically more significant?

Please: Michoacan freaks, convince me I am being facile. By the way, what is there to see in Michoacan´s vast empty quarter between Morelia, Uruápan and the isolated coast? That must be a territory of immense interest.

wendy devlin

Nov 3, 2009, 7:28 PM

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Re: [Hound Dog] Michoacan Redux

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Hound Dog,
I remember the first post, I ever read by you. Where you compared Morelia to Fresno.
That was, what, six/seven years ago?

As for Michoacan´s vast empty quarter between Morelia, Uruápan and the isolated coast, it is a territory, have always heard, described as not a place to go a'wandering. Given the political/economic dynamics of the region. Although enjoyed Uruapan and would like the opportunity to visit there again.

The coast-line is incredibly scenic and sparsely inhabited but didn't find the beach at Playa Azul and the port city of Lazaro Cardenas, attractive. Maybe these places have changed over time.
Although, it's a little difficult to imagine that they have.

Hound Dog

Nov 3, 2009, 7:56 PM

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Re: [wendy devlin] Michoacan Redux

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I remember the first post, I ever read by you. Where you compared Morelia to Fresno.
That was, what, six/seven years ago?

I regret that comparison, Wendy and thank you for reminding me of my naive remark. Morelia is a jewel. Fresno is a toxic wasteland but, actually, Fresno isn´t such a bad place either. Some places simply lend themselves to ridicule but I like to think I have matured beyond gratuituos humor. I must have been a jerk in those days. I am now a nice guy.

Hound Dog

Nov 3, 2009, 8:11 PM

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Re: [wendy devlin] Michoacan Redux

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I should also comment on your other remarks, Wendy. The vast empy quarter of Michoacan is, indeed, intimidating a la DELIVERENCE and as a southern Alabama boy I understand the need to respect the geographical boundaries of mountainous or swampy rural retreats. I do not underestimate the dangers of uninformed exploration of incivil backwoods trails whether in Michoacan or Chiapas or Alabama or Northern California and anyone who walks unprotected into such places has a fool as a companion.

Don´t be messin´ with folks you don´t know anywhere on this planet.

(This post was edited by Hound Dog on Nov 3, 2009, 8:24 PM)

Anonimo

Nov 4, 2009, 1:42 AM

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Re: [wendy devlin] Michoacan Redux

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Quote

Pátzcuaro to me is like a fine confection quickly consumed and then gone from the mind. Brightly beautiful, extraordinary, marvelous but then once one has licked the icing off the cake there is no sustainable there there.

That to me sounds more like a description of Bernal, Querétaro. It's a beautiful jewel of refurbished architecture, but with no depth. The state capital of Querétaro, is a wonderful city.

Anyway, that's my opinion after two days and nights in Bernal a few years back. On the other hand, we've now lived near (never in the urban center) of Pátzcuaro for four years now. We are quite content.

Pátzcuaro is not for everyone, and that's o.k. for us who live there and closeby. Morelia is where we go for our bigger shopping needs, get better medical care, and find more and often better dining.
All generalities are suspect, including this one.

Saludos,
Anonimo

Peter

Nov 4, 2009, 8:03 AM

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Re: [Hound Dog] Michoacan Redux

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If you have not already done so I might suggest a trip out to Janitzio Island, that would certainly give you more to chew on. There are a number of pueblitos around Lago de Pátzcuaro that are worth exploring. Tzintzuntzan has a nice pyramid that if you're not careful you might look for it before realizing you are standing/driving on it.

Your dining experience would benefit from a trip to Campestre Alemán, a little German restaurant in Arócutin which is located before Erongaricuaro after leaving Pátzcuaro heading for the back side of the Lake. You might find Eronga(ricuaro) mildly entertaining as well. Continuing on the backside of the lake you would arrive in Quiroga and if you have shopping in mind that is the place to buy stuff, less touristy price-wise but well-known to the locals, it's number one claim to fame is the carnitas. The local crafts are sold in Quiroga and are much lower priced than elsewhere, including usually the town where they were made.You can cut off to Tzintzuntsan from there and have a look-see before heading back to Pátzcuaro.

A few minutes toward Uruapan you would find Lago de Zirauén, Mexico's deepest lake, not far from the highway. Continue through Zirauén to go to Santa Clara de Cobre, another short excursion from Pátzcuaro to suggest.

The town of Pátzcuaro is a pleasure to behold but it really is the combination of the town itself and all the little communities in and around Lago de Pátzcuaro that give it "legs."

Those other areas you ask about between Uruapan and the coast have some interesting places like Apatzingán in tierra caliente. The best barbacoa de chivo is, IMHO, to be found in tierra caliente where I almost always stop off in Cuatro Caminos by Nueva Italia for barbacoa on my way to the coast. It's no sweat and not uninviting to visit those towns. On the coast I like Nexpa for the surf but it's not a really smooth swimming beach, Caleta de Campos is much nicer for that in Bahia Bufadero where they offer water rides and a large number of palapa restaurants with decent mariscos, the palapas all bundled together on one end of the bahia with the rest open to enjoy with private spots and smooth sand.

I've never had a problem with anywhere I've gone in Michoacán and I've been to a number of little pueblitos off the beaten track. Just don't act like an idiot and you should be OK.

(This post was edited by Peter on Nov 4, 2009, 11:22 AM)