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TomG

Apr 3, 2004, 3:02 PM

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the Rosarios last night

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My wife writes this report:

We had a very interesting experience last night. We were invited to a Rosario in honor of Our Lady of the Sorrows at the home of a woman lawyer. They were an upper middle class family, and so the altar was very elaborate, and occupied a space of about 8x8 feet. The background consisted of green herbs. The only one I recognized was rosemary, which is a symbol of remembrance. In front of the green background was a free-standing crucifix about 3 feet high elevated above and to the side of the Virgin of Sorrows clad in black. Surrounding all were large vases of flowers: the traditional Mexican Alcatraz (lily) for purity; red roses for the blood of Christ; and at floor level beautiful bouquets of white and purple flowers, the purple symbolizing sorrow. It also contained the ghia, or sage seeds sprouting green shoots from clay pots.

The Rosario began with an exquisite musical group consisting of two violins, a bass, a flute, a keyboard and four classical vocalists who were obviously highly trained. The leader of the group had a doctorate in music from Germany and accomplished a great blend of voices and instruments. The musical group alternated verses of the hymn with the recitation of the Sorrowful Mysteries of the Rosary, led at the altar by a man we assumed to be a priest, based on his knowledge and comfort with the liturgy and not needing to read the recitation of the litany after the rosary. Civilian clothes on priests makes it tough for us, even after a lifetime of being around Catholic clergy in the USA.

It seemed to me that the women were all very devout and moved by the ritual, but the men seemed to fade off onto the sidelines with a more casual attitude.

When the praying was over, guests were invited to partake of a buffet consisting of the traditional fare: a bolillo topped by non-meat filling like beans, vegetable in a very hot salsa and tostados spread with avocado sauce and cheese. A main feature was the aguas made from rice, chilacayote, and jamaica. The aguas symbolize the tears of the virgin as she watched her Son suffer and die on the cross.

During the refreshment time, another musical group played. This one was all-instrumental, consisting of an oboe, a piano and a flute playing a classical repertoire.

The evening was an interesting contrast to an earlier commemoration of the tradition in our barrio. Here the emphasis was on bread and circus with the agua and the food and a tropical band in the street. We were unaware of any prayer in the barrio, although that could have occurred earlier at the neighborhood church. What I saw at the top of our street was a number of families were giving out aguas and food to a very large group of people, some of whom brought buckets and totes to carry it home – and returned to refill buckets again.


(This post was edited by TomG on Apr 3, 2004, 3:05 PM)



Carol Schmidt


Apr 3, 2004, 3:26 PM

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Re: [TomG] the Rosarios last night

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All I saw last night in San Miguel de Allende were altars, particularly in the newly cleaned out and repainted fountains on various street corners. What stood out to me was the girl about three who was enacting the Virgin Mary in the altar by Teatro Angelo Peralto. She was soooooo tired, and she kept jerking her head awake and then looking around at the onlookers to see if anyone had noticed she'd fallen asleep on duty. She also kept glancing at her replacement, waiting on a park bench patiently for what, maybe the next half hour's stint, and her shift couldn't end fast enough!

She was really annoyed at all the flashbulbs going off in her face--maybe no one had told her about those. Mexicans were taking her picture, too, it wasn't just gringo tourists being disrespectful of a religious tradition.

Tomorrow morning are several parades commemorating Palm Sunday, and palms twisted into every conceivable religious symbol will be for sale at the Jardin. Some are real works of art.

Carol Schmidt


TomG

Apr 3, 2004, 7:14 PM

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Re: [Carol Schmidt] Palm Sunday folk art

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You are right; palm weaving is great folk art. We have a little collection up north in our entry way. We were out previewing the palm weaving here in Oaxaca in front of the Cathedral this evening. Pricey, but nice - a cut above what was available last year in Tampico, and the year before in Zacatecas. For neophytes all you have to know is to buy it and hang it up. It will last for years. Don’t overlook the wheat crucifixes. You can hardly do better in a crucifix than a wheat one. Hear Zacatecas stood out, at least so far – tomorrow will tell the truth. I’ll be very disappointed if Oaxaca doesn’t excel in this category.



It's a very short season. You pretty much have to get out there and get to Mass and do your folk art shopping before noon on Palm Sunday.


(This post was edited by TomG on Apr 3, 2004, 7:16 PM)


TomG

Apr 4, 2004, 5:21 PM

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Re: [TomG] Palm Sunday folk art

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What Dorothy didn’t know at the time of the Rosario is that the head of the musical group was the conductor of the state Symphony Orchestra of Oaxaca. What I can’t figure out is how the hostess was able to get him on that night when so many people were having Rosarios, including, I sure, a lot of big shots.

Today, Palm Sunday, he was down in the Zocalo conducting the state Symphony midday. We spent the morning at the Cathedral with Mass at 10 AM and 2-3 hours of buying palm designs out in front of the Cathedral. As far as I am concerned, the Palm Sunday palm basketry is some of the finest folk art in Mexico – and we loaded up.

The good news here in Oaxaca is that the basket makers came down from the Mixteca (indigenous Mixtec mountain region to the north) and there had to be a hundred of them. They were weaving the palms on the spot and barely keeping up with demand. When we left at 2:30 PM they still hadn’t inched ahead of demand much. I don’t think anyone can out basket weave the Mixtecs in Oaxaca, so we are comfortable knowing we got some of the best palm designs Mexico has to offer. We have enough to decorate the house up properly.

Already two weeks ago people were celebrating the coming end to Lent. Now things are really getting intense. Llano Park is full of carnival rides, games, food stands, and noise. Lent in the tropics is actually pleasant, if not better than normal times. The time between the Three Kings (January 6th) and the first week in Lent were the dull days. Everybody was dragging around, nothing to do but daily life. The day after Easter will be dull again I expect, everybody will gradually drift into sacrificing. At first Dorothy and I were rubbing our nose in it for Lenten Fridays, eating red snapper Veracruzano, that was so delicious that we switched over to shrimp a la diabla to try to discipline ourselves, that was so delicious with fresh large shrimp that we went to no protein at all on Fridays. So we just muddle through with fresh vegetables and fresh fruit. That wasn't much of a hair shirt either.


TomG

Apr 5, 2004, 6:40 PM

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Re: [Carol Schmidt] the Rosarios last night

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Mexicans were taking her picture, too, it wasn't just gringo tourists being disrespectful of a religious tradition.


Two bits it was her Mom.
 
 
 
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