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db52

Mar 17, 2007, 8:24 AM

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Yucatan Haciendas

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There is a write-up in today's (3/17) Wall Street Journal about these henequen plantations that've been converted. Maybe some smart person could figure out how to link or copy or something.

Bubba

Mar 17, 2007, 9:34 AM

Post #2 of 6 (1630 views)

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Re: [db52] Yucatan Haciendas

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I no longer subscribe to the WSJ so can´t read you article but it just so happens I am a hacienda freak. Not a fancy $1,000US a night hacienda hotel but a huge fan of haciendas - especially if they are somewhat run down and with ghosts. Here are two of my favorites in the Yucatan.

YAXCOPOIL

On Highway 261 from Mérida yt Uxmal (Uxmal is a wonderful ancient Maya city by the way). Yaxcopoil is a magnificent hemp plantation which, I believe, was still in operation as late as the 1960s. It is now an active museum with photos and furniture from the old days and old industrial machinery itself worth the visit. You must see this place.

HACIENDA SAN ANTONIO

Located in Sudzal, a few kilometers out of the wonderful "Yellow City" of Izamal. (You cannot go to Yucatan and not go to Izamal. OK, you can, but Bubba will be displeased.

This hacienda/hotel is inexpensive (we paid $300 Pesos a night) and a lot of fun. It´s owned by Americans who, thankfully, have not messed with it too much. In my opinion, it is haunted but that does not cost extra.

There are at least three good restaurants in Izamal serving Yucatecan food. I cannot recommend the food at San Antonio and suggest you go into Izamal for dinner. That´s just my opinion based on one meal. They will serve you dinner to order.

(This post was edited by Bubba on Mar 17, 2007, 9:36 AM)

db52

Mar 18, 2007, 3:23 PM

Post #3 of 6 (1568 views)

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Re: [Bubba] Yucatan Haciendas

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Thanks for the tip. I visited both Uxmal and Izamal earlier this winter. I´ll maybe check out that discount hacienda next time I´m in the area. Today I am in Guanajuato.

RickS

Mar 19, 2007, 8:56 PM

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Re: [Bubba] Yucatan Haciendas

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Not that many people visiting this forum will actually end up at HACIENDA SAN ANTONIO but I must add a couple of things: I second Bubba's recommendation for staying at least one night there. It is out in the boonies, but that is part of the ambiance. And my wife and I had both a dinner and breakfast there and enjoyed them both. I suspect that Bubba is more of a gourmet than I (or he is more picky... which, come to think of it, may be the definition of a gourmet!).

And if you are anywhere hear Izamal, east of Merida, do NOT miss paying that fine town a visit. The 'Yellow City' is clean and vibrant, has two small but interesting ruins within the town, and a couple of wonderful B&Bs. At night one can hire a nice horse-drawn carriage to take you on a tour of the town. And good Myan-based food specialties. Izamal is not to be missed IMHO.

(This post was edited by RickS on Mar 19, 2007, 9:07 PM)

Bubba

Mar 20, 2007, 10:20 AM

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Re: [RickS] Yucatan Haciendas

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And my wife and I had both a dinner and breakfast there and enjoyed them both. I suspect that Bubba is more of a gourmet than I (or he is more picky... which, come to think of it, may be the definition of a gourmet!).

In Bubba´s South Alabama we call gourmet food "cheese grits".

Rick has said some nice things about Hacienda San Antonio in Sudzal and we are both fans of the place for short duration so I should explain why I said one should drive the 13 kilometers of so into Izamal for dinner rather that eat at the hacienda.

I love Yucatecan food and the only dinner I ever had at Hacienda San Antonio was as close to Yucatecan food as Alabama brislin´ chicken is to a Northern Michigan "hot pot". Keep in mind that they have few visitors which is part of its charm but the kitchen has to go into high gear to serve people who show up at 3:00PM as did we.

Izamal has one restaurant that serves excellent campestre style Yucatecan food and that is an important part of the Yucatan experience. We were served some sort of bean burrito, cheddar cheese concoction at the hacienda for dinner even though I specifically asked for local specialties. It was like Mexican-dinner-in the-can night.

I actually complained to the owners who retorted that their guests adored their food.

OK. Maybe we were served what was available as we were the only guests that night. Give it a try.

We still think this is a fun place to stay and recommend it highly. Breakfast is fine. We´ll eat dinner in town.

RickS

Mar 20, 2007, 3:41 PM

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Re: [Bubba] Yucatan Haciendas

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I think Bubba and I are agreeing for the most part.... we probably got the "A" cook the night we were there (and we too were the only guests that night). But eating in Izamal is the better choice unless driving into town would be an inconvenience. But don't make the mistake of thinking (beforehand) that you might could just eat in Sudzal. It is basically just an intersection and a couple of houses!

But alas, as I mentioned on my first post, the probabilities of anyone reading this post and actually showing up at the remote Hacienda AND remembering anything that either Bubba or I have said is remote at best!

But DON'T forget about Izamal. It's worth driving out of the way to get to (or taking a trip out there while visiting Merida).