Bubba
Jun 9, 2006, 11:01 AM
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There was a discussion on another forum about urban eco-tourism which, I regret to say, I tried to skewer even though the efforts are commendable if they are anything more than Jack Nicholosonīs infamous "auspicious beginnings". I think it is because I have just returned from the rather chaotic cities of Oaxaca and Mexico City and saw so many problems in those places that I may have overreacted because I see so much paddling about in circles when the real, gut wrenching problems of those two cities in particular are seemingly ignored. I happen to love places such as Mexico City and New York and Paris but I donīt have to live there and feel for most of the underprivileged that must.
Because Oaxaca was in the thick of a teacherīs strike that had virtually paralized the center of town, we rented a car and sought to get out of there. Since we have friends in Teotitlan del Valle, we usually end up in the valley along the road to Mitla and Tehuantepec but this time, as it was May and a bit hot, we decided to head for the mountainous eco-resorts that one finds north of the city. Oaxaca City is at about 1,500 Meters and some of these resorts are as high as 3,000 Meters reached by good roads (even though local maps may not indicate that fact) and can be reached from Oaxaca City in around two to three hours. All of this is indigenous land and foreigners would be unwise to even attempt to buy there but various pueblos have set up rustic cabins among pine forests and spectacular landscapes and this is a side of Mexico many of us rarely see. These camps offer cabins with hot water and some offer food as well. They are manned by local tribal members who are quite friendly, especially if you speak some Spanish. There are miles of hiking and biking trails in the wilderness and bikes are for rent in some camps.
We took Highway 175 north of Oaxaca where we stayed in a camp overnight and also visited mountain villages north of Tlacolula. We recommend both trips. When you get into villages at around 3,000 Meters it is cold even in May. In Guelatao de Juarez you will be near Benito Juarezīhome town and a trout restaurant with excellent food and a spectaculor view from high above the town which is well worth the drive up a decent dirt road. They cook the trout over wood fires and serve in with giant tostadas typical of the region.
It appears to us that some of the indigenous people of Oaxaca in this area have found a great way to exploit their natural resources by attracting tourism to the area and, while we were there, a busload of village leaders from Chiapas was there visiting camps and restaurants in order to learn how to set up similar facilities in that state. On the other hand, especially on the road north from Tlacolula, expect to see lumber truck after lumber truck almost as if in a parade so the notion of ecological sensitivity may be somewhat overblown. After all, the village needs the revenue. Also on the road you will see wooden rustic villages that are right out of Siberia and the most beautiful and huge century plants Iīve ever seen eveywhere you look.
Oaxaca is one beautiful state but there is so much to see there one can only hope to touch the surface.
This is one place where the term eco-tourism seems appropriate.
(This post was edited by Bubba on Jun 9, 2006, 2:32 PM)
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