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Bubba

Apr 27, 2007, 8:59 AM

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Fifty Years in Southern Mexico

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When we bought this 30 years old house in Ajijic in 2001, we inherited the complete Encyclopia Brittanica from one of the (unknown) previous owners and we also found and bought an old Humble Oil road map of Mexico from 1953. For those of you interested in what has changed in Chiapas and in road conditions throughout Southeastern Mexico in fifty years, here are some interesting statistics.

In 1950 there were an estimated 907,000 people living in Chiapas of which a quarter were of pure Mayan blood. In 2000, that population has reached 4,300,000 people - an amazing growth rate and indigenous Maya still account for about a quarter of the population. This is astonishing to me as I have never thought of Chiapas, with its poverty and isolation, as a place where there would be any significant in-migration so most of this population growth must be internally generated.

About 40% of the population of Chiapas is considered malnourished and there are countless rural settlements throughout the state accessible solely by dirt path. Many live in small villages in almost unimaginable poverty so far from public roads that they must walk for hours, perhaps longer than a day, simply to get to the nearest passsable public thoroughfare. These communities must be self-sufficient and many exist on barter alone.

Much of the population growth in Chiapas has been in its cities. The largest, the state capital of Tuxtla Gutierrez, has a population today of in excess of 500,000 people, up from 15,000 people in 1950. Other comparisons between 1950 and today include Tapachula which grew from an estimated 15,000 to 282,000 people and San Cristóbal which grew from 12,000 to 200,000.

The state´s second largest city, largely ignored in the rest of Mexico, is an interesting place with a mix of Indigenous, Mestizo, Spanish, German, French, Japanese and Chinese peoples. The Europeans were attracted to the Soconusco in the 19th Century by the opportunity to grow coffee for export and the Asians originally arrived in Chiapas to build the vital railroad from the border with Guatemala to Ixtepec, Oaxaca which joined the old Isthmus railway from Tehuantepec, Oaxaca to Coatzacoalcos, Veracruz.

The Tapachula to Ixtepec railroad is no longer functional below Arriaga, Chiapas due to the hurricane damage of a couple of years ago. The rail line hooking up Tapachula to the isthmus railroad started as a magnificent dream to compete with the Panama Canal; a dream that largely faded and in the years before Hurricane Stan the railroad had become infamous as a link to the United States for desperately poor Central Americans who were immigrating illegally through Mexico.

Tapachula is a surprising place with one of the highest GDP levels per capita in Mexico according to Wikipedia which touts it as the cosmopolitan capital of the Soconusco coffee growing and coastal lowland region.

A look at my old U.S. published road map is interesting. In the 1950s, the railroad was a vital link through the Soconusco, a region that had only a single 17 km paved road from Tapachula to Puerto Madera. Most of the state, in fact, had virtually no paved highways. Only Highway 190 from Oaxaca City to San Cristobal de Las Casas was paved all the way through. Most other roads were unpaved fair weather roads and a vast area including the Lacandon Forest all the way up to Campache had virtually no roads at all worthy of appearing on the map as even seasonal dirt roads. The only link between Campeche, Merida and the rest of Mexico was the rail line from Tabasco State. Most of the state of Yucatan and almost all of the state of Quintana Roo were without improved roads. Interestingly, in all of Quintana Roo, roadways in 1953 consisted of a dirt road from Chetumal to Bacalar, A dirt road from Valladolid, Yucatan to Puerto Morelos and a dirt road from Peto, Yucatan to the ruins at Xyatil on the way to what is now Filipe Carrillo Puerto.

Sorry to bore you folks with this but I am amazed at the infrastructural improvements in this region in the past fifty years. In the 1950s Encyclopedia Brittanca, the vast central plateau of Chiapas was cited as among the most fertile and finest land masses in all of Mexico hindered by the almost complete lack of transportation and its remoteness from the rest of the country. Today the roads are there but the poverty persists in an economy largely favoring the status quo for oligarchical elites. So what´s new?


(This post was edited by Bubba on Apr 27, 2007, 9:19 AM)



esperanza

Apr 27, 2007, 5:28 PM

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Re: [Bubba] Fifty Years in Southern Mexico

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Bubba, your posts have made the Southern Mexico board the most interesting one on MexConnect. Thank you.

And now you made me get up from here and go get my 1930-edition Terry Guide to Mexico off the shelf. In 1930, according to the guide, the state of Chiapas had a population of 360,500. Tuxtla Gutiérrez had a population of 22,000. San Cristóbal de las Casas isn't mentioned at all.

Here's what Terry says about Tuxtla Gutiérrez:

"Tuxtla Gutiérrez is a somnolent town, characteristically Mexican, with squat houses and cobble-paved streets. The absence of railway communications accounts, in a way, for the lack of progress. It stands in the midst of an amazingly rich district, on a fertile plain watered by the Río Chiapas. Beautiful tropical trees and flowers adorn the Alameda and the numerous small plazas. The Paseo Joaquín Miguel Gutiérrez is the fashionable promenade. The Feria de Guadalupe, held in December of each year, brings many visitors and fills the hotels. The town is in telegraphic communication with the rest of the Republic."

Three hotels are mentioned: Hotel México, Hotel Central, and Hotel La Serpentina. Room rates, including private bath, range from $2.50 to $3.50 USD. The guide makes note that many Indian women have goiters and/or leprosy.

The guide says that the easiest way to get to Palenque is by steamship from Veracruz to the Tabasco state border and from there by horse, with Indian guides. "Take more than one guide," says Terry. "The journey is apt to be arduous and illness is not uncommon. Before undertaking the trip, the traveler should seek the advice of some official in the Department of Anthropology at Mexico City and should also consult an agent of the Mexican Navigation Company."

That highway from Tuxtla Gutiérrez to San Cristóbal is a miracle, isn't it?

You're welcome to have a look at Mr. Terry's guidebook, next time you're up this way.




http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com









(This post was edited by esperanza on Apr 27, 2007, 5:30 PM)


tonyburton


Apr 27, 2007, 5:43 PM

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Re: [esperanza] Fifty Years in Southern Mexico

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I agree that Bubba is doing a great job of describing his preferred parts of Southern Mexico. Prompted by your extract from Terry in 1930, I pulled out my 1909 Terry and re-learned that Bubba has perhaps not gone as far from Jalisco as he thought he had...

Tuxtla Gutiérrez (1,776 ft.) capital of the state of Chiapas, with a population of 22,000, is 140 kilom. from the station of Jalisco (Pan-American Railway, Rte 64) to which it is linked by a highway. When the stage line is not in service, the traveller may be able to arrange for horses ($2.50 a day) with the station agent. A mozo, or stable-boy, must accompany them, to return them, and the traveller must pay for the additional horse, the keep of the mozo, and an extra peso a day as his salary. The trip from Jalisco should not consume above 2.5 to 3 days...


Bubba

Apr 27, 2007, 5:52 PM

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Re: [esperanza] Fifty Years in Southern Mexico

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Esperanza:

I would kill for your 1930 Terry Guide to Mexico so be glad you are my friend. The difference in population estimates for Tuxtla between Terry in 1930 and Encyclopedia Brittanica in 1950 (which I quoted) are interesting but not that significant since I´m sure these were both rough estimates. What´s amazing is how Tuxtla grew to a big city of over 500,000 by 2005. Current references indicate that the only real industries in town are government and construction related.

Thanks for adding to our information on Chiapas and other points in Southeastern Mexico. By the way, according to my 1953 Humble Oil Company road map, the only way to get to Palenque then was by rail over the Coatzcoalcos - Escarcega - Campeche - Mérida line which, I presume, had become an alternative route from Veracruz to Mérida. The 1953 map shows access to the rail line via Highway 205 from Villahermosa to the rail head at Teapa, a short dirt road designated as Highway 180 at Escarcega and finally Campeche. Not even one other access road is shown in that entire territory.

An endlessly fascinating region for me.


Bubba

Apr 27, 2007, 5:56 PM

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Re: [tonyburton] Fifty Years in Southern Mexico

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The trip from Jalisco should not consume above 2.5 to 3 days...

Jeeze, Tony, it still takes me two days.

Maybe the two of you can tell me where I can purchase these wonderful old guides in Guadalajara or Tuxtla Gutierrez.




tonyburton


Apr 27, 2007, 7:02 PM

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Re: [Bubba] Fifty Years in Southern Mexico

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Look on http://www.abebooks.com


song_of_joy

Apr 27, 2007, 7:45 PM

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Re: [tonyburton] Fifty Years in Southern Mexico

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And some of those speedy horses!


Bubba

May 1, 2007, 6:21 AM

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Re: [Bubba] Fifty Years in Southern Mexico

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I had so much fun looking up statistics about Chiapas state in my old Encyclopedia Brittanica from the 1950s that I had to see what they had to say about the then territory of Quintana Roo on the Yucatan Peninsula.

The encyclopedia reported that the territory, which was split off from Yucatan state, had a population in 1950 of about 27,000 of whom 7,000 lived in the city of Chetumal. Outside of Chetumal and Puerto Morelos, it seems that almost everyone living there was of Mayan heritage decending from Mayans who fled Spanish repression in Yucatan state. The Mayan capital was Chan Santa Cruz (now Filipe Carrillo Puerto) and that capital governed (more or less) a territory extending from Bacalar to Tulum. Although the Mexican government retook the territory in 1901, even in 1950 it was considered to be virtually autonomous.

As I indicated earlier, in 1950 there were only three highways deemed worthy of inclusion on my Humble Oil roadmap. Those were relatively short dirt stretches from Chetumal to Bacalar, Valladolid, Yucatan to Puerto Morelos and from Escarcega, Yucatan to X-Yatil.

That drive from Tulum to Bacalar is interesting if a bit of a tedious bore passing endless flat kilometers of scrub forest. All along the route, addresses of jungle homesteads are various things from toilet seats to tires to soda bottles hung from trees.

I somehow doubt that those reporting on the Mayan population of Quintana Roo in the 1950s actually counted those folks who, needless to say, were probably hostile toward census takers.

Places absolutely worth visiting south of Filipe Carrillo Puerto (a not particularly friendly town) are extraordinarily beautiful Lake Bacalar and the remote town of Xcalak just at the border with Belize. There are two roads to Xcalak, one inland and exceedingly uniteresting to say nothing of lonely and the dirt beach road to Majahual which is remote and lots of fun to drive. Watch where you stop as along this road near wetlands live the most ferocious mosquitos Bubba has seen anywhere.

If you are thinking of buying a beach house in Xcalak becuase it is so far from anything that it must be cheap, think again. It ain´t cheap there and you may have to rely on solar/generator power plus the hurricane god may take you out. I stopped at one very nice remote beach house and this dude, who lived in Ohio, wanted $650,000USD for this place. That place was so remote it was spooky. Can you imagine living out there on the sea two hours from Chetumal slowly going insane? You had damn well better enjoy your own company.


(This post was edited by Bubba on May 1, 2007, 6:25 AM)


sfmacaws


May 2, 2007, 12:32 AM

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Re: [Bubba] Fifty Years in Southern Mexico

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Many native Yucatecans, whether Mayan or Mexican, have a lot of animosity towards the rest of Mexico and the capitol in particular. They feel that they have been shafted repeatedly from Mexico City and they resent it. At one point in the history of the Yucatan, they petitioned the US to become a territory. This is true of natives of all 3 states, Campeche, Yucatan and Quintana Roo.

What is now different in Quintana Roo - which only became a state in 1974 - is that there has been a huge influx of workers from all over Mexico and thus the population has opinions more in line with what you will find in the rest of Mexico. In Campeche and Yucatan, there is still enormous resentment towards Mexico. In addition, they are more distrustful of those from Quintana Roo as well, they have in a sense "sold out" to Mexico. In fact, they've been co-opted by Mexico.

The inland and southern population of Quintana Roo - once the largest centers of population - are now totally outnumbered by the number of people living and working on the northern coast. They are the ignored and the disenfranchised and they are mostly very poor. They see the big money on the coast, most of the men are gone every week to work in construction there, and they want some of that for their area and their families. Whether that is a good answer for them or not, it's the only one they see. Thus you get the many promises from politicians of tourist development in the outlying areas, some may come true but some of these areas will probably never see the influx of money and visitors that they want. Will they really build the huge international airport that is slated for Tulum? Will the little town along the highway between Chetumal and Escarcega really get the millions of tourists they are planning for and dreaming about? ¿Quién sabe?


Jonna - Mérida, Yucatán




waltw

May 4, 2007, 12:18 PM

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Re: [Bubba] Fifty Years in Southern Mexico

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I purchased a book the other day called "Grupos Indigenas en Oaxaca : Situacion Sociodemografica".
It reviews Census stats for indigenas groups within Oaxaca from 1895 to 2000. One interesting tidbit - the number of people in Oaxaca speaking an indigenous language has actually increased significantly from 1895 to 2000, from 468,488 to 1,120,312. But the overall percentage has dropped from 53.7 % to 37.11 %. So a larger number of speakers, but a smaller percentage of the overall population.

While most of the 16 indigenous languages in Oaxaca picked up speakers during this period, there were some whose numbers decreased - el chontal, el chocho, el ixcateco and el popoloca.
 
 
 
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