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Slimale55

Mar 14, 2004, 10:09 AM

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Caribbean Coast Rentals?

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Does anyone have information or experience on retiring on the Caribbean coast south of Cancun? Cost of living, available services, etc.? Are there still any affordable (CHEAP) long term rentals available?

sfmacaws

Mar 14, 2004, 11:52 AM

Post #2 of 18 (2109 views)

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Re: [Slimale55] Caribbean Coast Rentals?

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Well, I've retired here half the year and know others who spend the whole year here. You'd have to define "cheap", it means different things to different people. If you want to live very cheaply here you will find that the farther away from the water you live, the cheaper it is. Also look at Chetumal, it would be less expensive than farther north. The Bacalar area north of Chetumal and the Xcalak peninsula used to be much cheaper but they have gotten more popular and the prices are going up.

The cost of living in this area is higher than in some other parts of Mexico. Just about anything is available here that is available in the US, although some things may cost more.

Here in Akumal, it is easy to get an inexpensive rental in the summer months but usually long term rentals include the provision that you will move out if the place is rented to tourists in the winter. It makes for a chaotic living situation.

Your question is so broad that it is hard to answer. If you have more specific questions I will try to answer them.

Jonna - Mérida, Yucatán

Slimale55

Mar 14, 2004, 2:16 PM

Post #3 of 18 (2098 views)

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Re: [Slimale55] Caribbean Coast Rentals?

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Thanks Jonna,

I realize that I was very vague. I'm kind of testing the waters to see what I can find out. I have found 1 bedroom, kitchen, bath, simple homes for long term rent (6-12 month) in other areas for $300 - $400 per month and am wondering if that is possible in the area between Cancun and Tulum. Unfortunitely I know I will have to pay the premium for living on the beautiful Caribbean. I wouldn't mind living not directly on the beach as long as it is close within walking distance. Do you live in the village of Akumal or near there?

Carianna

Mar 14, 2004, 2:58 PM

Post #4 of 18 (2095 views)

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Try Cozumel

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In my not in the least humble opinion, it's safer and vastly more interesting over here on the island of Cozumel than it is on the mainland coast especially if you are talking about the Cancun to Tulum corridor. Check it out at www.cozumelmycozumel.com where you will find a forum called Living on Cozumel which should provide fodder for thought

Slimale55

Mar 14, 2004, 5:06 PM

Post #5 of 18 (2086 views)

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Re: [Carianna] Try Cozumel

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Thanks Carianna, The www.cozumelmycozumel.com site is excellent and has tons of information. I have spent most of the day reading it. One thing I did not find much information on was an approximate cost of renting a small home or apartment for a long term rental. Most of the information seems to be for vacation rentals. I will probably rent for at least 6 months and possibly longer. I'm looking for a simple, clean, 1 bedroom, kitchen, bath home or apartment. From the posts I realize that I would need to come down and look around to find one, but I'm just trying to get an idea of the cost. Rent, utilities, etc.

Carianna

Mar 15, 2004, 7:26 AM

Post #6 of 18 (2074 views)

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Long term rentals on Cozumel island

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You can get a kind of run down but roomy unfurnished place with a super location right downtown where you can walk to everything for a little under $4000 pesos/month not including utilities. (Electricity will be a significant part of your monthly costs. It is 4 times as expensive as in the US. So if you use the AC in the summer even if only at night like we do, figure at least $1000 pesos/month even for a small apartment.

You can find awful, bug-ridden apartments for as low as $2000 pesos/month in a good location. I don't think you want to go there. You can find a nice house back in town for $400-$1200 depending on the conveniences you want. I have an American friend who rented a two bedroom furnished apartment back about 15 blocks from the waterfront and the downtown for $600 US/month not including utilities. The place was a little shabby but was fine for her needs.

In short, this is not the cheapest place in the world to rent long term because it's a resort area. A lot of people like to come just for the winter months and there's enough demand for this time period, that it tends to drive the prices up for people who want to stay longer. Come in the late summer or fall and you'll find more choices and better deals and can grab something before the snow birds start to arrive. I have a couple of friends that rent their places long term but it just depends on if you hit the timing right. You may e-mail me if you get near to arriving here and I will check for you to see what's up with my friends. Both their places are very nice and in the $8000 pesos/month range.

sfmacaws

Mar 15, 2004, 4:14 PM

Post #7 of 18 (2051 views)

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Re: [Slimale55] Caribbean Coast Rentals?

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Yes, there are places available here in the $400 US a month range. Cariana's advice on coming in the rainy season is good advice, although I don't agree with her about Cozumel island. It's a nice place, but it is small and overwhelmed by the hordes from the cruise ships on a regular basis. It's also easy to visit on the ferry from Playa. Still, I think it would be a nice place to live while you are investigating the area. Certainly, if you like to dive it is one of the premier dive locations in the world. We go there to dive fairly often and actually first found Akumal 10 years ago while on a dive trip to Cozumel.

I live in Akumal Playa, on Half Moon Bay. There are casitas back from the beach or somtimes just in front of the beach front homes. These are rented for about what you mentioned. As I said before, there are sometimes restrictions that you must vacate over the Xmas holidays as that is when almost anything here can be rented for an exhorbitant amount. If you know in advance the dates you must leave, it's not always a bad thing to take a trip away at that time.

It would be nearly impossible to find a rental here unless you are here or know the person who owns the place. You really would need to come here and look. Not just in Akumal, but in Puerto Aventuras, Playa, and Tulum. I'm pretty sure you could find a monthly rental, perhaps easiest in Playa, for around your amount while you look.

Jonna - Mérida, Yucatán

Slimale55

Mar 15, 2004, 4:58 PM

Post #8 of 18 (2042 views)

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Re: [Carianna] Long term rentals on Cozumel island

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Thanks Carianna, this information is helpful.

Slimale55

Mar 15, 2004, 5:04 PM

Post #9 of 18 (2041 views)

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Re: [sfmacaws] Caribbean Coast Rentals?

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Thanks again Jonna,

I think what I will plan to do is fly into Cancun and rent a car so that I can check out the coast from Cancun to Tulum and probably bop over to Cozumel on the ferry too. I understand what you are saying about needing to be there to find a definite rental. At least this way I can narrow down the possible areas.

Carianna

Mar 16, 2004, 12:23 PM

Post #10 of 18 (2017 views)

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Not to sling any mud but....

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...here goes. I'm not too crazy about everything I've seen of the Yucatan coastal development scene from Cancun down to Tulum. It's getting to be wall to wall gigantic all inclusive resorts mixed in with gated communities and opulent beach front villas. All, depressingly, serviced by shack communities of workers that live just to serve them. These people have no sewer systems let alone an infrastructure that provides for things like playgrounds, produce markets and the like.

Cozumel, on the other hand, has a very strong sense of community that goes back generations and continues to this day. Just to give a few examples, there are soccer fields and parks everywhere, fish markets, large produce markets. An 18-year old sewer system, a water treatment plant, 6 companies competing in the purified drinking water category. There are large grocery stores, cable tv and DSL connections.

Cozumel has the best carnival in the entire Yucatan thanks to the active participation of so many families and children who work for months ahead of time to prepare for the week of festivities when the whole island comes together for a 7 day party of gorgeous costumes, dancing, music and food.

Yes, there are cruiseships here every day. And yes, the crowds on the waterfront can get annoying when they are in port. However, go even one block back from the touristy waterfront and you'll find a real Cozumel that is alive and well--a place where the cruisers seldom if ever venture. They don't come back in town to where I live, 3 blocks from the waterfront in the center of town, because the cruiseships tell them its not safe and that they'll get ripped off. They have an ulterior motive, wanting you to shop at "approved stores" only -- all of which, if you haven't already guessed -- offer kickbacks to the ship companies.

So there is no denying we have the cruiseships here. But if you're vacationing here you just get up earlier than they do and hit all the good spots before they start pouring out like lemmings. The evenings are quiet, too, as they are either chowing down or huddling in their cabins, afraid to walk the streets of town.

Which is kind of laughable as San Miguel is safer than anywhere I've ever lived by a long shot and that includes Manhattan, SF and DC. Also safer than bucolic little Winston-SAlem, NC where I lived near the center of downtown for more than twenty years before moving to Cozumel island.

One of the main reasons the island is so safe was pointed out to me by a Mayan friend a couple of months ago. He reminded me that while any scalliwag in the Yucatan who wants to thumb a ride to the coast to prey on the rich gringas can usually do it, few can afford that $10 US ferry to get across to the island.

And if they do get here and then commit a crime, they have a devil of a time getting back off the island even if they DO have the money for the fare.

I always feel safe on Cozumel. I have almost every modern convenience I could possibly want. And I'm never bored. Frustrated, ticked off, dusty and hot sometimes. But never bored. To me places like Akumal are stunning to visit for a vacation. But I think my eyes would roll up in my head with boredom if I lived someplace like that full-time. But to each his or her own, right? Just my two million cents.

Marlene

Mar 16, 2004, 1:08 PM

Post #11 of 18 (2011 views)

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Re: [Carianna] Not to sling any mud but....

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Great post Carianna! How true. Living in a port city myself, I can relate to your comments regards the cruise lines and what they tell the onboard passengers. (I used to work onboard cruise ships, so this is no big surprise to me) We have a similar situation with the Golden Zone powers that be, in their telling folks it isn't safe to venture into el Centro Historico. They want to keep the tourist dollars in the restaurants and bars in the tourist area, plain and simple. I live in el Centro Historico and I feel safer here than anywhere, not that Mazatlán is in the least dangerous anywhere. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

sfmacaws

Mar 16, 2004, 10:37 PM

Post #12 of 18 (1998 views)

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Re: [Carianna] Not to sling any mud but....

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My first thought is that isn't it wonderful that there are so many, diverse areas in Mexico and along the Carribbean coast. I have nothing against Cozumel, I love it there. Mainly for the diving, there really is nothing like that drop into the abyss that is right off of Cozumel. I've dove in Cayman, Palau, Hawaii, and other Pacific spots and Cozumel can hold its own with all of them.

I do have to defend the Costa Maya from some of your statements.

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All, depressingly, serviced by shack communities of workers that live just to serve them. These people have no sewer systems let alone an infrastructure that provides for things like playgrounds, produce markets and the like

I'm not sure what you consider "shack communities" but many of the mayan pueblos in this area have been here for a very long time, looking much as they look now. There are newer pueblos built to house workers from the large resorts and they are by no means "shacks". Here in Akumal, the pueblo has concrete houses as well as traditional Nahs which are made of wood and thatch. Most of the houses are concrete. There are playgrounds, soccer fields, produce markets, tiendas, and quite a few large, 2 story houses recently built by workers from the area. There is also a also a library with after school programs for the children as well as english and spanish literacy classes for the adults. The water for the pueblo is the same water that goes to the gringo houses on the coast. Currently they are in the process of putting in pipes along the highway to service the pueblos with better water. The problem with the water here is the high mineral content, a result of the limestone rock. The new water line will not provide water to the gringos unless they pay quite a large sum for it. It is so far only going to the pueblos along the road. Sewage in this area is done by septic systems or the newer wetlands constructions that are becoming more common. Sewage in the newer pueblos is mainly through septic systems, either common to the whole community or individual.

Yes, there are communities back in the jungle without sewer systems or piped water. There are Mayan pueblos and people living back there that do not have many modern conveniences if any. This is a problem throughout Mexico with the indigenous people. I would guess that if it is not a problem on Cozumel it is just because there are few indigenous people left on the island.

What is true, is that locals and indigenous people cannot afford to live on the beach front. Pretty much all of the ocean front land has been bought by foreign companies, ex-patriots, or rich mexicans. I doubt that is different on Cozumel? Approve of it or not, it is fact. Waterfront land is very valuable and either it has been appropriated by the govt and then sold or it was sold by the ejido.

The tourist industry has brought Mexicans from all over the country to work here. I doubt that is much different on Cozumel? A lot of the jobs have been taken by Mexicans, the indigenous Maya have not done as well. Part of that is the lack of services and education that has been traditional here in Mexico. It's no secret that Mexico has not treated their indigenous people any better than the US has. There are many people in this area that are working to try and change that.

I think you have a point in that Cozumel is an island and thus crime is no doubt easier to control. Crime here is no better or worse than anywhere with the same population. For instance, it is about the same here in Akumal as it is in the town I come from in Marin Country, California. Mainly we are talking about the occasional burglery. I would assume that crime in Ciudad Cancun is about the same as any other city of its size. I would also assume that crime on Balboa Island in Calif. is less than on the mainland. If that is the only consideration for living somewhere, then so be it.

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To me places like Akumal are stunning to visit for a vacation. But I think my eyes would roll up in my head with boredom if I lived someplace like that full-time.

Please! You would be bored with hundreds of Mayan ruins within half a days drive? Or incredible beaches that go for miles and miles? Or Mayan villages that have existed for centuries? Or cenotes that go for miles underground to dive in? What is it that you do on the small island of Cozumel that doesn't bore you? Particularly what do you do there that isn't available here on the mainland as well, along with a lot of other diversions?

I think you are a bit defensive, take the ferry over sometime and enjoy the diversity that is here on the mainland.

Jonna - Mérida, Yucatán

Carianna

Mar 17, 2004, 8:18 AM

Post #13 of 18 (1983 views)

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Let's agree to disagree

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I am pleased to hear that there has been progress in the Akumal area at least in terms of providing a better infrastructure for the workers. Libraries and permanent markets and places where people can meet are so important. So you are saying that it's no longer a miniature version of Cancun City. That's good news, indeed.

I'm not defensive about Cozumel. No need to be. But I do get a bit tired of the comments that "the cruiseship industry is overrunning the island. " And I also wanted to point out that, from the point of view of LIVING somewhere long term -- as opposed to VACATIONING there short term -- which is what the original poster was asking about, I believe -- Cozumel is, to me, a much better choice than the mainland coast.

I'm sure I could spend a month enjoying all the things you point out on or near the mainland coast. But, as any one knows who lives permanently in a resort area or a famous city, after awhile the tourist attractions get old. What you want long term are things like good grocery stores, light traffic, lack of pollution, personal safety, telephone and internet, friendly people. The little, unspectaular things in life that make so much difference, however, on a day to day basis. That's why I say that I, personally, would be bored living full time on the mainland. I find all the things I've described above and more here on the island.

I also find it a vastly amusing place to live because it's a real city and a very family-oriented one with an unmistakably Mayan influence. Because, yes, there are LARGE numbers of Mayans living here many of whom are doing pretty dang well. The men who built our two homes are both Mayans as are all the men on their crew. My houskeeper is Mayan. They are everywhere here. Thank goodness. They are my favorite people.

So what keeps me amused? People-watching. And the fact that there's always something or other going on. It's a fascinating mix here of international tourism, Mexicans, Mayans with a small sprinkling of gringos tossed into the mix. (Population of the island 80.000. Last count on the population of full time gringos here -- 2,000.)

sfmacaws

Mar 17, 2004, 10:00 AM

Post #14 of 18 (1971 views)

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Re: [Carianna] Let's agree to disagree

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I don't really know where you are coming from Carianna, or where you got your information. Akumal has never been a "miniature version of Cancun City", that's laughable. I've been coming here for over 10 years and I've owned a home here for over 4 years. It's grown, we now have 3 dive shops instead of 2 and 6 restaurants instead of 4. Part of the road has been spiffed up, but there is still only one road. The traffic is more than it was but dogs still sleep in the road.

As you said, "What you want long term are things like good grocery stores, light traffic, lack of pollution, personal safety, telephone and internet, friendly people." We have all of that here as well as the ability to drive to other towns for a different outlook, or to Merida for the weekend or even, heaven forbid, to Cancun to stock up on things at CostCo, WalMart, Office Depot or any other box store you can think of. I like having that option just as I like having my car easily available for short or long trips.

I enjoy diving off Cozumel and I go there frequently to do that. Living there however would not suit me. Everything is more expensive and in limited variety. I'm not one that could live on an island, I get 'island fever' as they call it in Hawaii. However, for those that like it I think it's a wonderful place to live. I don't think that it is necessary to justify living there or to downgrade other areas to make it all right. It's odd to me that you are so denigrating of the mainland when you clearly don't know much about it. We are all on the beautiful Carribbean Sea, all in the state of Quintana Roo and all in the country of Mexico. We have more in common than there are differences. Enjoy!

Jonna - Mérida, Yucatán

Carianna

Mar 17, 2004, 12:12 PM

Post #15 of 18 (1960 views)

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Re: [sfmacaws] Let's agree to disagree

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I'm basing my impressions of the Akumal area on a villa rental stay there 7 years ago. We stayed at a lovely oceanfront villa right across from Yalku Lagoon. It's beautiful there. For the gringos.

I wasn't specifically meaning to put down Akumal or to suggest that it had ever been a little Cancun city. If I gave that impression, I apologize. I guess I got a little worked up about the whole "Riviera Maya" corridor because we took a trip to the Sian Kaan Biosphere last week and I was sort of taken aback to see how much more development there now is along the coast between Playa and Tulum than there was even two years ago.

sfmacaws

Mar 17, 2004, 10:24 PM

Post #16 of 18 (1945 views)

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Re: [Carianna] Let's agree to disagree

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Apology accepted.

Yes, there is a lot of development all along the Caribbean coast. I'm guessing that it will continue in every country with a stable government. There is only so much land in this gorgeous area and there are a lot of people who want to enjoy it. Since we aren't citizens of Mexico, there is not a whole lot we can do. I think the work that has been done to educate tourists on the fragility of the reefs and the turtles and other creatures that depend on them has shown effects and is the kind of thing that helps. If the customers are informed about some of these issues, the resorts will respond. The political decisions about what and when to develop, are pretty much out of our hands. I may not like all of the new all-inclusives that seem to be the rage now but whether they can build or not is not my decision. For that matter, I was adamently opposed to the building of the new cruise ship pier in Cozumel that destroyed a huge section of the reef. Many people were opposed to it but sometimes you just don't win.

I have a lot of opinions about tourism as an industry. I think it beats the hell out of a lot of the options. For instance, there are those who object to the light shows and tourist stalls and all that other stuff that surrounds Mayan ruins like Chichen Itza. I also find most of it kind of appalling. But, there are a lot of people who like it and pay money to see it and enjoy it. They come back and they send their friends. Lots of people make a good living from it and they are able to support their families and better their lives. The options in my mind would be for them to chop it up and sell it piece by piece on the black market or graze cattle on it and plow it over to grow corn. I think enlightened tourism is the best of the real options. The more we as North Americans can educate the people from our countries who come here to respect and require that the places they patronize also respect the wildlife and the ocean - the better it will end up. Trying to slam the door and saying that now that I'm here, I don't want any of that tacky development to follow me is not realistic.

So, while I don't love that Playa del Carmen was the fastest growing city in Mexico last year and I'm not particularly fond of the huge all-inclusive resorts that have sprouted like weeds - I still love this area and I admit that they have very little impact on my enjoyment of it. For the most part, they are out of my sight down a long private road and other than losing some of those isolated beaches that I loved, I can live with it.

Jonna - Mérida, Yucatán

Jim in Cancun / Moderator

Mar 18, 2004, 5:09 AM

Post #17 of 18 (1940 views)

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Well, Now that it's safe to enter..............

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....I guess I'll stick my nose in. Glad to see that you both agree--even if it is only to disagree. Although I hear a lot of other things that you both agree on too--about the area and the people and a certain "cariño" for them both...as do I and many others.

And of course I have an even different point of view since I live in the "big city" with the bad rep! But I came here 16 years ago--long before the franchises and much of the growth and although I am building a little house in the woods outside of Cancun, I still like Cancun and what it has to offer--especially its closeness to places like Cozumel and Akumal which I love.

Hope you both keep coming back here to visit and contribute often.

sfmacaws

Mar 18, 2004, 6:11 PM

Post #18 of 18 (1918 views)

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Re: [Jim in Cancun] Well, Now that it's safe to enter..............

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Well, I'll happily admit that being an hour + from Cancun is one of the reasons I love this area. In the beginning it was because I could always get a cheap flight there and the airport was about all I saw. I still like that my friends in the US can get here easily and cheaply and thus visit more. In the last several years, I've started going into Ciudad Cancun more often and now that I can find my way around and have stores and restaurants that I like, I'm really enjoying it. It is wonderful to have a city nearby that has anything and everything you might want. A few weeks ago, some friends of mine were traveling through and needed a diesel mechanic - no problem, they found a freightliner dealer in Cancun. We go in about once a week to shop, hang out and have lunch. It's a nice size city, well laid out and easy to drive in and easy to park in. I suppose some of that is due to the fact that nothing there is over 30 or 40 years old. Still, it's very nice with great weather and great people. I do admit that I've only been in the hotel zone maybe twice, both times just driving through to look at it.

As Playa grows, there is less and less real need to go to Cancun. I still enjoy it though and find that I don't want to stop completely.

Jonna - Mérida, Yucatán