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deputy dog

Aug 8, 2003, 10:02 AM

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Anything negative about Lakeside living?

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It would appear as if most of the respondents on this forum do not live in the lake side area. For those of you who have lived there for at least a couple years this question is posed to you. No place is perfect so if you had to choose one thing which is a negative about living there what is it?



My wife and I will be visiting in October after having spent some Winters there several years ago. We are interested in the area, although I have heard it has changed greatly over the years. Any comments will be appreciated.



Bubba

Aug 8, 2003, 10:52 PM

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johanson


Aug 9, 2003, 12:06 AM

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Re: [deputy dog] Anything negative about Lakeside living?

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Sadly there are so many English speaking folks living in Ajijic, that there is little motivation to learn Spanish. Many Expats have lived for years in Ajijic never having learned more than a few words of Spanish.

Yo soy muy flojo, pero poco a poco aprendo mas Espaņol (I'm lazy, but little by little I'm learning more Spanish) The trouble is many of my friends don't try to learn the language. As my Spanish gets better, I'm getting to know all kinds of wonderful people from Mexico, that I could not have met without the small amount of Spanish I speak.

Don't make the same mistake I almost made. Learn to speak Spanish. It makes life easier and better exposes you to the Mexican culture.


esperanza

Aug 9, 2003, 5:48 AM

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Re: [deputy dog] Anything negative about Lakeside living?

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I live in Ajijic full time and have for years. This is what I see:

What Bubba and Johansen say is true.

It also appears to me that folks' reasons for moving to the Lake Chapala area have become primarily the weather and the exchange rate rather than any particular love of Mexico and the opportunity that living in a country not one's own offers for cultural growth. On the contrary, I hear daily a litany of how backward, ignorant, and stupid Mexico and the Mexicans are, the majority eager to steal from the foreign community in whatever way possible. Meanwhile, these very nay-sayers live in palaces they could ill afford in their countries of origin and they have household employees who maintain them for a pittance...all behind iron gates and iron bars, so that no 'undesirables' can visit their hallowed realms.

It's tragic, really, to live in this fear-and-ignorance-ridden mindset and pretend that it's paradise. Yes, the landscape is glorious...but the inner landscape, the one we bring with us, is the one that counts.

One last thing: more than any other despoiler of the glory here at Lakeside, I fault the realtor. The area is over-developed and priced light years beyond the reach of most of the Mexicans whose families have lived here since before the Conquest...and certainly before the second conquest, the one from the North.

Why don't I move? There are many days I consider it, a move to a place where there are few foreigners, few real estate pushers~and then I sit outside in the evening and chat with my comadres, I hear the clamores of the church bell telling me that a friend has gone before, I joke with the albaņiles working across the street, I watch a child play soccer whom I first met as he kicked in utero, I see my garden transforming itself from tiny twigs and shoots to a blooming heaven~and I realize that I've put down roots here, I'm as attached to my life here as I was in the States, and that no place is perfect.




http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com









(This post was edited by esperanza on Aug 9, 2003, 5:53 AM)


Georgia


Aug 9, 2003, 8:46 AM

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Re: [deputy dog] Anything negative about Lakeside living?

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This is a real gripe, not a philosophical one, and I've voiced it before, as dumb as it may sound my major dissatisfaction has to do with the lack of shoulders on the roads - this matters because many Mexican drivers seem to be related to Boston drivers: they pass anywhere and under any circumstances. Not having a shoulder on the road gives the "passee" no place to go if there is an oncoming car. Scares the hell out of me! I am constructing an altar on my dashboard.


deputy dog

Aug 9, 2003, 9:14 AM

Post #6 of 23 (1223 views)

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Re: [esperanza] Anything negative about Lakeside living?

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Thank you all for your comments.

Bubba there are gringo buttheads rich and poor all over the world.

Johanson, you are correct about learning the language being important. On one of my visits I met a former Secret Service Agent who told me when I questioned his attitude he said"if they want my money they can learn to speak English". I don't know if he was cheap but he certainly was a "Butthead".

Espeanza was eloquent in her comments. My desire to move has nothing to do about living cheaper. I enjoyed the Mexican people first. In fact I will be staying in Chapala at a Mexican friends home while she is in the States. You don't do that to someone you don't like and respect.

As for Georgia I agree the Mexican roads leave a lot to be desired. Try driving at night from Chapala to Saltillo. I arrived at my hotel & went to the local liquor store & downed a pint of Brandy to steady my nerves.

Again thank you all for your replies. Hope to see you when I get there in Oct. for 3 weeks.


Bubba

Aug 9, 2003, 3:11 PM

Post #7 of 23 (1194 views)

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Re: [deputy dog] Anything negative about Lakeside living?

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That was a pleasant exchange.


pat

Aug 9, 2003, 4:55 PM

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Re: [esperanza] Anything negative about Lakeside living?

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"I'm as attached to my life here as I was in the States, and that no place is perfect."


Ahhh, Esperanza. I think you have figured it out. No place is perfect, but some are a whole bunch better than others.... Unfortunately, some people will never be happy no matter what little piece of paradise they happen to inhabit at the moment. They aren't likely to change, and it isn't worth the time to try. They were probably bitching about where they lived "up north", even as they now sing its praises compared to where ever they are now.

I live in a piece of paradise now, but certainly look forward to seeing Ajijic for the first time in early September.

Pat


Bubba

Aug 10, 2003, 12:44 PM

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Re: [pat] Anything negative about Lakeside living?

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Well, I can't resist another post because many who read here are contemplating retirement so, while the other posters have been very enlightening about this place and certain inevitable cultural clashes that occur, I want to try to add my little contribution.

One needn't move to Mexico to see these resentments. I am a native Alabamian and my wife is Basque from Paris. We married in Mobile and then I tricked her into moving to San Francisco way back in the early 70s.

(When she first flew into San Francisco in August from Birmingham after having driven through the lush Alabama countryside [kudzu covering trees, etc], she spotted brown [excuse me, golden] San Bruno Mountain with the icy fog rolling in from the Pacific. On top of it, Tonto here had rented a motel room at Ocean Beach. As we say down south, Bubba had a lot of splainin' to do. Northern Californians will understand. She did grow to love it there over time.)

So, we had the good fortune to modestly ride up the real estate boom in San Francisco, Sonoma and Napa Counties but there is a down side to that. These are nice places but they aren't that nice if you get my drift. I mean, you want a one bedroom 600 Sq. ft. apartment in SF for $750,000? I can find you one. If you are willing to stand tiptoe on the toilet and peer out the miniscule window in the one bathroom, I'll get you a view of the Golden Gate Bridge - with luck.

So, it was time to leave. We are sunshine people so The Pacific Northwest was not in the running. So, the southern tier of states (excluding Texas), Mexico and certain parts of southern France were our options.

We were attracted to Mexico because we surmised that Highland Mexico would have a wonderful climate as opposed to the Desert Southwest or humid Southeast. We considered the Lake Chapala area,Oaxaca, Cuernevaca and San Miguel de Allende. My wife flew down here and was sold immediately on the Ajijic village. Never used the rest of her ticket.

So here is our experience:

Anywhere you go in places considered attractive and underpriced, you will find yourself bidding up real estate prices and this is a function of scarcity not simply realtor greed. No way arround it. Californians moving to places like Oregon, Washington and Idaho generate enormous resentment for several reasons. They have, through no fault of their own, ridden the California real estate boom and are often willing to pay top dollar for the best locations. Home prices, consequently become to dear for locals who haven't had such good fortune. Those Californians can also be as arrogant as a Tapatio teenager on a dirt bike in the summer at Lake Chapala. But this isn't just a West Coast phenomenon as most of you know. The Alabama coast has attracted a very large number of snowbirds in the past 20 years and so waterfront property there is outrageously expensive if popular. You can find less expensive bayou properties but might wake up in the middle of the night to find that you are sharing your bed with a gator or water moccasin.

I theorize that you will find most retirement communities, whether in Arizona or some other sunbelt area, full of intrigues and backstabbing. People normally only retire once - often with great anxiety- and they find time on their hands to hang around the club house and talk about what an idiot Billy Bob is. It's normal after 30+/- years in the business wars where antagonisms were channeled toward "that jerk" in the corner office. Expect meanness just about anywhere unless you move to Kodiak Island into a backwoods cabin where you may become bear poop. Well, that is certainly an ignominiuos end, no?

So, here is what I know after two plus years here:

The climate is excellent. People who complain about the heat here in April and May have certainly never been anywhere near Crawford, TX or Mobile, AL.

Learning Spanish will not only help you enormously even if your skills are rudimentary, local people will see it as a sign of proper respect and it's damned good therapy. Even the French will be tolerant of foreigners who try to speak their language - a tolerance they would never extend to their fellow countrymen.

Over time, if you are anything like the two of us, you will appreciate the fact that the Chapala area is so near a major airport and large, sophisiticated city such as Guadalajara. In Oaxaca, for instance, you are there bro. Nice place but periodic change is important.

You will find that the outstanding access you have to satellite TV and the internet are priceless assets for retirees. You will not get that in France.

It's not that easy to become proficient in a foreign language. The remote Mexican community you may alternatively choose may bring you a sense of profound isolation bordering on despondency that will eventually drive you out. Having others around who share your language and cultural base will be more important than most expats realize. You simply must control yourself and not become totally immersed in the expat culture. Look, I lived in France for over a year as a young man and only married a French woman three years later when she came to work temporarily in Mobile. There is no way I understood the French culture, despite having lived there until I married into a French family and even then it took years.

Finally, living in a foreign country is endlessly entertaining. Would you really rather be living in Sun City?

Gotta go.


Jean

Aug 10, 2003, 5:12 PM

Post #10 of 23 (1093 views)

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Re: [deputy dog] Anything negative about Lakeside living?

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For me it has been the animal situation in Mexico. I find it extremely distressing. Many can put it out of their mind, but for me and my spouse it's hard to see.

We gave up going into Guadalajara because the carnage on the roads of horses, cows, donkeys and dozens of dead dogs was more than we could take.

It's something I choose not to live with and it is one of the reasons I will leave.

This is a wonderful area, with great weather, but as with all places there are always some drawbacks. Whether you choose to live with them or can live with them decides whether or not you stay.
Retirement Communities
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Bubba

Aug 10, 2003, 5:28 PM

Post #11 of 23 (1087 views)

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Re: [Tuatha_de_Danann] Anything negative about Lakeside living?

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I think it is much better in the U.S. where they kill countless dogs and other small animals with lethal gas every single day so that sensitive gringos don't have to be offended by unkempt animals wandering about in the streets and they haul off the road kill so it doesn't smell bad and all meat comes sanitized in a plastic shrink wrapped container.

Don't let the border hit you in the butt on your way out of town. We will manage without you.


Don


Aug 10, 2003, 10:36 PM

Post #12 of 23 (1065 views)

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Re: [Tuatha_de_Danann] Anything negative about Lakeside living?

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Quote
We gave up going into Guadalajara because the carnage on the roads of horses, cows, donkeys and dozens of dead dogs was more than we could take.



Not sure what roads you drive on, but I haven't seen that much "carnage". I have driven the road from Lakeside to Guadalajara many times. In the 4+ years we have lived in Mexico, I have driven to many towns and other states. Like anywhere, you will encounter some dead animals, mostly in rural areas, but I can't say your discription fits anything I have seen.


Georgia


Aug 11, 2003, 5:00 AM

Post #13 of 23 (1055 views)

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Re: [Tuatha_de_Danann] Anything negative about Lakeside living?

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Ah, c'mon, it's not just Mexico. I live in NY state (for a few more months, and them I'm finally extricated from this place to El Chante, yay!) upstate. On my way to work this morning I counted the following road kill: four dead deer (two of them fawns), seven raccoons, one dog, two cats, and several other unidentifiable road pizzas. The carrion were happy.

The road to Guad past the airport experienced major road kill when people were ignoring the overpasses and getting themselves knocked off and the government put up the chain link fence. Dogs would try to cross, get stuck out in the middle, and get hit. I notice that now there are a lot of sections of the fence down and fewer dead dogs. So, I guess you take your pick: dogs or people.

When I spent an extended period in South America, I had occasion to be discussing the ambulance situation with a doctor. He lamented that they were old and poorly equipped but that it was the best his country could manage at the time. He also commented that in the US they had better ambulances for dogs than his country had for people. This was not a laudatory comment on how the US treats its pets, but on how world resources are squandered. He was bitter.


Jean

Aug 11, 2003, 5:32 AM

Post #14 of 23 (1049 views)

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Re: [Bubba] Anything negative about Lakeside living?

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In Reply To
Don't let the border hit you in the butt on your way out of town. We will manage without you.



Someone asked about negative things about Mexico. I did not post this as a new post but as an answer to someone about something that bothers me. This person (and rightly so), asked about the negatives before he makes a move or a decision. I didn't sit and say the system should change for me as a lot of gringos do.

Must Mexico be for everyone?

If there is something that bothers them and they choose to leave why must you attack them?

Why do you feel the need to have everyone love Mexico the way you do?

Where does your anger and hostility come from if you are so happy in this wonderful country that you feel the need to attack people for giving an honest answer about something that bothers them?

A lot of your post show anger and hostility (LCS for example). Is it that you have not adapted well to the lifestyle and laid back atmosphere that is here for the asking?

Or do you just attack posters for the fun of it.
Retirement Communities
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sandykayak


Aug 11, 2003, 10:12 AM

Post #15 of 23 (994 views)

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Re: [Tuatha_de_Danann] Anything negative about Lakeside living?

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Doggone it, just as I was about to congratulate Bubba for such a sensitive and an insightful posting (I thought "learning the language is a sign of proper respect" particularly delightful) he goes and ruins it by being rude to Tuatha.

I, too, find it heartbreaking to see the stray dogs, but we get plenty of coons and possums roadkill in Florida.

Bubba, how about an apology to Tuatha and let's get back to this excellent thread?
Sandy Kramer
Miami, Fla & El Parque


sandykayak


Aug 11, 2003, 10:26 AM

Post #16 of 23 (992 views)

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Re: [deputy dog] Anything negative about Lakeside living?

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On the topic of gringos living in gated communities, I would like to point out that when I stayed with a Mexican family in Queretaro (near San Miguel de Allende), they live in a townhouse in a gated community. No amenities (such as pool) and their property is valued at approx. $80,000 USD. And no stigma, either.

We have oodles of gated communities in Miami (and I'm glad mine isn't, but I'm also glad we have security cars patroling the neighborhoods) and nobody jumps on the Cubans, Jamaicans, Venezuelans, Colombians etc. who move into them).

I see and understand the negative thought of gringos isolating themselves from their host communities, but gated neighborhoods are a fact of life in many places.

IMO, it's up to the individuals, regardless of where they live, to learn the language and participate in community activities.

Choosing to live in a village (where it can be dangerous to walk your dog for fear that they will be attacked by strays, or the sight of dog poop everywhere is pretty disgusting, or are scared of breaking a limb on the cobblestone streets) does not make you a better visitor/resident. It's what you do while you're there and how you give back to the community that counts.

I have started making mexican friends in the Hispanic Community forum at chapala.com. It's easy for me because I'm fluent in Spanish, but Johanson has posted there also and HE used the proper word (teclado) when I couldn't think of it and used "keyboard."
Sandy Kramer
Miami, Fla & El Parque


Kip


Aug 11, 2003, 12:16 PM

Post #17 of 23 (962 views)

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Re: [Bubba] Anything negative about Lakeside living?

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Coming from you Bubba, I found that high praise. What do you feel are the pros and cons of living in Ajijic versus Chapala?



Kip
kip


Kip


Aug 11, 2003, 12:21 PM

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Re: [esperanza] Anything negative about Lakeside living?

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Besides,.. even though I haven't met you in person,..yet,.. and haven't moved downed there,.. yet,...I would miss you if you left!



Kip
kip


Bubba

Aug 11, 2003, 12:26 PM

Post #19 of 23 (963 views)

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Re: [sandykayak] Anything negative about Lakeside living?

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OK Tuatha & Sandykayak:

I did not mean to be so rude. My post about the positive things down here was overshadowed by my reaction to the dog and road kill thing. It is fairly disgusting, to say nothing of dangerous, the way they leave livestock road kill on the side of the road (or slightly in the road) indefinitely with a little lime on the carcass. Kind of reminds me of the United States in the 50s where the smell of road kill had to compete withthe odor from raw sewage dumped in rivers and streams.

This was not personal to Tuatha. If I am not mistaken (and I may be), she threatens to leave Mexico with some regularity and I should have simply offered her Godspeed.

I happen to love dogs and cats. I have three mastiffs who weigh about 135 pounds each and a rescued Ajijic street mut that weighs about 10 pounds. I have a bad reaction when I hear people moan and groan about the street dogs here who are, in my opinion, part of the charm of the village. I remember when I lived in the states the shameless way gringos allowed countless millions of dogs and other pets to be slaughtered - even their own pets - for their personal convenience. Then they come down here where most people have other priorities and communiies operate on a shoestring and they are offended.

Americans like to pretend that the carnage of small animals that goes on behind closed doors in the U.S. is not happening.

However, let me agree with Tuatha on this. If you really don't like to see street dogs or are bothered by barking dogs, do not move here. Stay up there with your crematoria. In fact do not move to any developing countries except those where people eat dog meat - which I understand is pretty good if cooked properly.

Oh, and I have no problem walking my dogs. I know of almost no place other than the Lake Chapala area where one has miles upon countless miles of mostly deserted public beach upon which to walk one's dogs. And rarely a Hill Gringo in sight.


sandykayak


Aug 11, 2003, 12:57 PM

Post #20 of 23 (946 views)

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Re: [Kip] Anything negative about Lakeside living?

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and the pros and cons (apart from it's cheaper!) of living in Joco v. Ajijic?
Sandy Kramer
Miami, Fla & El Parque


Bubba

Aug 11, 2003, 1:31 PM

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Re: [Kip] Anything negative about Lakeside living?

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Kip that business of comparing Ajijic with Chapala is dangerous ground upon which to venture. They both have advantages and disadvantages. Ajijic is probably more expensive in general.

There are many different lifestyles here and, as anywhere, there is a competitive spirit among people regarding where they live which reminds me of a story. It is now super cool to live in an incredibly expensive small frame house in Yountville in the heart of California's Napa Valley with a vineyard out back. I was a banker there lending to the wine industry for years and used to commute through this precious (realtor term) little community and stop in for a beer with the old guys from the Yountville veteran's home across the highway. These old guys would sneak out when Nurse Cratchet wasn't looking and go drink and eat free pizza slices in this bar and Italian restaurant. So, I was having a drink next to this old coot and he started laughing about the killing he had made selling real estate to rich entrepreneurs from the Silicon Valley. He told me that when he was a kid, it was such a stigma to be from Yountville, they used to tell people they were from South Napa which was an ugly industrial area with a large mental hospital. Timing is everything.

My wife and I are not very social creatures, as Tuatha surmised so we bought in accordance with what was important to us. My wife, not I, chose the West (Lower) Ajijic Village for several reasons:

It was flat and right near this incredible public beach and lake so we could walk everywhere.

We had lived on the tops of hills for years both on SF and Sonoma County and realized that that fact isolated us. These were steep hills and a burden to walk up which was a problem that would become worse as we grew older. If you drive around this area you will find many very nice homes way up on hills with no public transportation. You will become a slave of your car in those places. But that's OK if that's what you want. The trade off is a nice view if you like to look at placid lakes.

The area around Six Corners where we live is quaint and has wonderful Mexican village charm (and lots of street dogs with great personalities. It's the locked up dogs one must be aware of).

There is a neat local bus service one block from our house that will take us all the way from San Juan Cosala to Riberas del Pillar and connects to buses to every place other one might desire to go.

There are plenty of stores and restaurants in the area and downtown Ajijic is a short walk or bus ride ($4 Pesos).

The house had been there for thirty years and had a mature garden. We were able to observe that the house was well constructed because of its age and relatively good condition. The venerable garden with beatiful mature trees could not be duplicated in a new house. In the hills, especially around Chapala we are told, construction problems may occur because of unstable soil.

If you buy down here know your realtor and contractor as you will not have the protections as a buyer to which you are accustomed in the states.

The house had changed hands a number of times and we felt that that minimized potential legal problems.

And, finally, we felt that area from just west of Ajijic through about Chula Vista was the center of gravity in the local real estate market whether in the flats or up the hill and would make our invesment more liquid if we needed to sell for some reason. Beware of this liqidity trap no matter how much you like a property unless you just happen to know for sure that you will be here forever.

Now, these are just opinions from one who has only lived here just over two years and is a response to a question. I make no claim to be at all knowledgable. There are lots of nice places to live around here and one must buy in accordance with one's values and needs.

I also like Chapala.


Bubba

Aug 11, 2003, 1:54 PM

Post #22 of 23 (934 views)

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Re: [Georgia] Anything negative about Lakeside living?

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Georgia has a good point. When we first arrived here two years plus ago, there was much more road kill than now. I really hadn't thought about it until she brought it up. It used to be almost laughable to see the bloated-cow-or-horse of-the-day reeking away in the midday heat. Ah, the myriad smells. Now you rarely see large livestock left in the road between here and Guadalajara. For real carnage, you have to go see Guadalajara Bus Road Kill. They have run over and killed over fifty pedestrians this year alone and, acccording to the Guadalajara daily Mural, there has not been one arrest of a bus driver.

Which reminds me to give newcomers a few basic lessons in driving here.

You are on your own. Try not to have an accident if at all possible. If you don't have the right insurance and are clearly the victim you will probably do some time in the hoosegow and the person who injured you will run away - especially if he is a commercial driver.

Any truck with the term "Materiales Peligrosos" written on the back has the right of way at all times.

So does any other truck or bus or anybody in a Ram Charger.

To get through any glorietta (roundabout) alive always remember this. The car in front of you, if even only partially in front of you, may and will turn left or right in front of you without warning. You must not run into him or her from the side or from behind- ever! So, always try to be the driver out front. When you finally realize how adept Mexican drivers are at this game, you will begin to anticipate the glorietta competition with unrestrained glee and look forward to the next one.


mkdutch

Aug 17, 2003, 6:09 AM

Post #23 of 23 (805 views)

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Re: [Bubba] Anything negative about Lakeside living?

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Lots of great info and opinions on this subject. Bubba, you left out Las Vegas and environs as another place being taken over by Californians. I are one of them, albeit with a 35 year layover in Minnesota...8^).

Anyone who expects the Chapala Laguna area to remain the same for an extended period of time needs to wake up and smell the roses, however. The first wave of baby-boomers should start hitting our shores in 2005, and the rate of change will undoubtedly accelerate in the ensuing five years, as they look for their retirement heaven. Since many of the EUA historical retirement havens have been booked up (and bid up), Mexico provides a very attractive alternative.

And as the Mexican economy improves, our hosts will be raising their standard of living as well...have you noticed how many more locals are driving cars and trucks these days? Higher labor costs, restaurant bills? We've seen a marked increase over the last four years. And good for them - everyone deserves a better life. The downside, of course, is increased traffic, living costs, crowding; things many gringos hoped to escape by moving here.

All that said, this is still far and away a great place to live and will be for some time - especially compared to the alternatives. What continues to make it special are the people of Mexico. It's hard to imagine a place where the people are more simpatico.........Dutch
 
 
 
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