Hound Dog
Dec 9, 2009, 5:03 PM
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Tlacotalpan. Veracruz- Magic City, Magic Place
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This city on the Rio Papaloapan simply rises up out of dismal swampland amid nondescript butt-ugly cities as you drive up from the Cosamaloapan exit from the Tinaja-Minatitlan Cuota on your way south to all points in Southeastern Mexico and the beginning of the journey is not promising as you pass through cheesy riverbank cities of no promise and with no interest to the traveler and then, out of the clear blue as you approach the end of a disappointing ride from the cuota arises OZ. Incongruous. surreal. Unexpected after an hour or so passing rivertowns so dismal and poor and unattractive that you have begun to think yourself a fool for traveling hereabouts in the first place. But, Tlacotalpan is a unique and fascinatiing place on the river with unduplicated architectural style and riverfront homes of utmost charm. If you stayed there too long, of course, you would become crazed just as Jack Nicholson did in that movie about the seasonally closed high mountain resort but then, although fine real estate is cheap thereabouts, you just know you need to sponge up the place in a day or two and move on in the interest of maintaining your sanity such as it remains after all these years. Tlacotalpan is like fine Italian ice cream. To be savored and then rejected for constant consumption in the interest of maintaining mental balance at least for a while.
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