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Oct 17, 2008, 6:48 PM

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Day of the Dead in Pátzcuaro
By Deb Hall
October 17, 2008 San Miguel de Allende

Day of the Dead
Altar building & Pátzcuaro tickets
Tue, Oct 21, 2–6pm
Zócalo Folk Art
Hernández Macías 110
Free
Info: 152-0663

As surely as spirits and souls of the departed once again journey earthward from Mitlán (the Aztec underworld) to rejoin their families November 1–2, cultural enthusiasts from San Miguel and the world

over will travel to Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, to enjoy the vibrant artisans’ market, the decorated cemeteries and the colorful and ancient traditions surrounding El Día de los Muertos. But before heading to Michoacán, here are some insights and information that will make your trip all the more interesting this year.

Despite assumptions, the famed artisans’ market held during Day of the Dead in Pátzcuaro’s Plaza Don Vasco de Quiroga is a fairly “modern” event. Many artisan friends recall traveling as small children to Pátzcuaro with their parents during Día de Nuestra Señora de Salud, December 8, and selling folk art in the courtyard surrounding the Basílica, food stands extending down Calle La Paz toward Plaza Gertrudis Bocanegra. In an attempt to bolster tourism in the fall, Pátzcuaro’s civic and cultural leaders in the seventies began promoting the artisans market during Day of the Dead.

Other notable changes through the years have been in the flower market and in ousting artisans from the Plaza Grande. Previous to 2002, the glorious mounds of cempazuchitl (marigolds) and maroon-colored mota de obispo (cock’s comb) were sold on the northeast corner of the main plaza. Today, the Day of the Dead flower market is located on the south side of the Basílica on Calle Serrato. The year 2002 also brought the introduction of professional tents and lighting to the previous quaint-but-impractical jumble of blue tarps, miles of extension cords and booths lighted by a single bare bulb that made nighttime shopping for folk art an adventure.

For me, the most dramatic “improvement” was the removal of artisans from the diagonal sidewalks connecting the plaza’s perimeter to the center fountain. Previously, from the seventies through the nineties, the Plaza Don Vasco de Quiroga was filled with beautiful wares from Ocumicho, Cocucho and Zinapecuaro (to name a few), while nearby children played as relatives joyfully passed the day gossiping, selling and painting even more folk art during the tianguis. Feeling that tourists should enjoy an unobstructed view of their beautiful plaza, villagers and their wares were moved to cramped spaces against the street curb in 2000, but to my thrill they were once again allowed inside the great plaza in 2002. In 2003, once again no one was permitted to display folk art inside the Plaza Grande, and it has remained so ever since. Although the space provided for the display of authentic indigenous folk art has decreased with time, the Day of the Dead folk art market in Pátzcuaro is wonderful and should not be missed.

The goal of many visitors is to attend the concurso, the juried folk art show held on November 1. This event, too, has seen many changes through the years. Sometimes held on the Plaza Don Vasco de Quiroga (2002), other times held at the Museo de Artes y Industrias Populares (years previous to 2001), and in 2007 held in the courtyard of the Centro Cultural Ex Colegio Jesuita de Pátzcuaro, one can only guess where this exciting and popular exhibition and sale will be conducted in 2008.

To gain entry and first pick of prize winners, begin lining up at the concurso entrance around 10:30am.

At the core of the Day of the Dead experience is viewing the cemetery altars in nearby villages decorated according to ancient Purhépecha tradition on November 1–2. One need not wander the countryside in heavy traffic at midnight to feel the spiritual side of indigenous Mexico’s most famous observance. Contract a taxi (if you don’t have a car) and visit Tzintzuntzan or Tzurumutaro on the afternoon of November 1, chatting with families as they lovingly prepare flower-filled altars. Or to experience another side of Muertos, await the arrival of caballeros (and caballeras) riding directly into Pátzcuaro’s Basílica de la Vírgen de la Salud courtyard on horses, ponies and burros just before dusk for a special mass. It is a thrilling sight.

The social highlight of Pátzcuaro’s Day of the Dead is Casa Encantada’s Ninth Annual Fiesta on Friday, October 31, 7:30pm, benefiting the local spay and neuter clinic. The food is fantastic, the margaritas are “bottomless,” and mariachis keep locals and visitors mingling and dancing until 11pm. Advance tickets (150 pesos per person) are available at Zócalo Folk Art on October 21 (tickets in Pátzcuaro at the event are 200 pesos per person).

Also on October 31, Pátzcuaro hosts their one and only home tour of the year benefiting Casa de Hogar Tata Vasco. This year, seven Mexican-owned colonial homes will be featured on the walking tour for a mere 100 pesos per person. Details about the home tour also will be available at Zócalo on October 21.

In addition to advance tickets, Zócalo will offer how-to information about altar building, including the meaning and use of handmade candles, incense holders (copaleros or saumerios), special Day of the Dead papel picados from Puebla (artfully cut tissue paper) and extra-fancy sugar skulls (alfenique) from Toluca. On view will be one Michoacán-style Day of the Dead altar and one evoking the unique traditions of central Puebla featuring a much-sought-after papel picado border collected by decorative arts aficionados from as far away as Japan.

Schedule of Events
Upon arriving in Pátzcuaro, confirm event dates and times at the Tourism Office located on the western side of Plaza Don Vasco de Quiroga.

Friday, October 31

7:30–11pm, Casa Encantada’s Ninth Annual Fiesta, 150/200 pesos

Colonial home tour, 100 pesos

Saturday, November 1

10:30am, concurso, juried folk art show

Before dusk, caballeros & caballeras, Basílica courtyard

Midnight, cemetery altars

Deb Hall is co-owner of Zócalo Folk Art located in San Miguel de Allende and Pátzcuaro. She writes regularly about Mexican culture and folk art at zocalodemexicanfolkart.blogspot.com.

http://www.atencionsanmiguel.org/index.php?engnewspaper