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Bill_N

Jun 15, 2003, 6:46 AM

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Tianguis en Morelia

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Morelia is much larger than some of the other cities about which forums are hosted, for example, Lake Chapala etc. I am curious about "market days" in Morelia and whether there is one central tianguis or more than one scattered about the many colonias surrounding the city?

My wife and I will be visiting Morelia in a few weeks and we are interested in where and when the main Tianguis is held.

Any information would be most appreciated.

Bill & Bev

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jennifer rose

Jun 15, 2003, 12:53 PM

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Re: [Bill_N] Tianguis en Morelia

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Yes, we have markets in Morelia. And I haven’t begun to visit them all. And never will, just because doing so would become a career.

“Tianguis” refers to street market. But not all markets are on the street.

Morelia’s largest retail market is Independencia, down on Lazaro Cardenas. It’s open every day, has a chapel, and everything under the sun – spurs, machetes, fresh flowers, whole cow carcasses, spices, bee pollen, and clothing. A veritable Cathedral of Commerce. There’s even a store which sells nothing but costumes. I’ve been known to spend hours there, just soaking in the atmosphere.

Somewhat smaller but cleaner is the Mercado San Juan, into which the Ayutamiento has poured a great deal of money for parking and upgrading. It’s about a block from the Parador Amado Nervo where you said you’ll be staying.

Independencia and San Juan do have food stalls, featuring some excellent versions of local cuisine.

There are other indoor markets similar to Independencia and San Juan. And there’s the Mercado de Abastos, a wholesale market where, if you’re in the mood to dodge trucks, great deals can be had one whole crates of produce.

Not far from IMSS is the Wednesday market, an open-air one with very nice merchandise (and upscale prices).

Up in Santa Maria you can find a tianguis on Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday. Chickens killed while you wait, fresh plants, food items, clothing, fayuca, and even blender parts. The tianguis in my ‘hood is an important social institution, but it’s only been around since 1985 or so, having been introduced during the last Cardenas Administration. We are working to relocate the tianguis to a better location, for the benefit of the merchants as well as the residents, because the neighborhood has outgrown the tianguis, which presents some serious access and sanitation problems. We have the belief that we’ll succeed by the end of the current Cardenas Administration.

I enjoy the camaraderie of the market, but when you live here full-time, it’s a pleasure to be able to go to Walmart or Costco and have everything placed in your car, without having to search for a parking place. Until the superstores like Comercial Mexicana and Gigante arrived here about 20 years ago, all shopping took place at places like Independencia, the local butcher, and the tianguis.


jennifer rose

Jun 26, 2003, 2:16 AM

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Re: [Bill_N] Tianguis en Morelia

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The number of tianguises in Morelia totals 170.


Bill_N

Jun 26, 2003, 8:51 AM

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Re: [jennifer rose] Tianguis en Morelia

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Wow it would take quite a long while to visit all of them.

Bill

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jennifer rose

Jun 28, 2003, 7:55 AM

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Re: [Bill_N] Tianguis en Morelia

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Not all of them bear making that special pilgrimage. Many are simply ordinary neighborhood markets which exist to serve those who would otherwise have to drive or take public transportation to another market, offering up simply the usual range of produce and staples.

On Sunday mornings, near the Auditorio Municipal, there is a too-many-blocks-long street market which sells everything from pirated merchandise to car parts, old clothing, and house plants. And antiques of questionable provenance.
 
 
 
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