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Oscar2

Dec 14, 2009, 5:38 PM

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Patzcuaro Bonito!

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Ah Patzcuaro, a lovely little town, so robust, so full of life, a busy place with much to do about nothing but find a place for the day or night to relax and have a good day. When we first arrived, we checked into the Parragoia Hotel, on a corner of the Zocolo, which boasted so much activity as soon as we exited the hotels quite and pleasant center pieced fountain courtyard.

Just outside to the right of its doors was this humongous Mercado. For such a small town, and I’m not exaggerating, it runs long and wide in various directions. There was excitement in the air when I got up earlier than my wife did and out I went exploring the Mercado. Midway down this very long Mercado path with vendors on both sides, I ran into this gray haired older man and his wife chopping away feverishly on cebollas, ajo, and limones for the delicious caldo con maize y pedazos de puerco con cilantro y oregano. The scent of this sopa made me sit down and order. There was another woman doing her business of picking the meat off the bones and sucking the rest until the bone had nothing more to give.

We went to a hardware store right around the corner to a Electrónico plus other things sold in this place and we were amazed how busy and efficient and completely stocked this store has apparently grown too through the years. After our purchase, on the way out, the wife said lets see if someone knows who can tell us who will give us a tour that speaks English. As we were in line paying our bill, a blue eyed semi-smiling guy mid to elderly, with a frumpy, well worn-out straw hat in a tattered, well worn-out washed away white long john top, and wearing scruffy jeans, heard us and volunteered to help by introducing us to someone who could complete the tour task at hand.

We followed him around town and everywhere we went saludos came from all over the place. We thought, why is this guy so well known around town but didn’t have a clue. After tentatively setting something up for a tour with a woman, we sat down, we had a limonada, and he had a beer. Something came up on his cell and he had to leave but about an hour later while walking the plaza, a horn blew and it was him again. He said he was glad to have met us and now that he had a little more free time, he’d like to invite us to lunch.

We jumped in his brand new pickup and off we went ultimately up in the hills and on a well used dirt road. I wondered where in the heck is this place we’re going to have lunch. Well, it was a real nice surprise. Up on the top of this hill was a restaurant set pretty as a picture overlooking Patzcuaro, the lake, all its islands and more. We sat outside underneath breaking billowy clouds and where the sun felt absolutely delicious.

While toasting with Margaritas, before lunch, conversation took us back some 36 years when this gent first landed here in Patzcuaro where he found his home. At the ranch he settled in just outside the city, way back then, he had no water, no electricity nor cooking gas. After a few years, they dug a well and that was it for many years. He became a farmer, eventually bought land, lots of land and is now one of Patzcuaro’s largest and major exporters. I’d mention what he grows but this may be saying to much because we really liked this guy, Patzcuaro is a very small town so he shall remain anonymous, for reasons of which we respect his ways and well, in our book he’s just plain old “Buena Gente.”

36 years of sticking to it, living a life unlike what he was brought up in the states, makes him unique and very special. We will definitely keep in touch through emailing and more in the future, not to be forgotten…



Photo of Rancho La Mesa Restaurante Bar & Villas on the hill overlooking Patzcuaro


(This post was edited by Oscar2 on Dec 14, 2009, 5:48 PM)
Attachments: Rancho La Mesa Restaurante-1.jpg (75.9 KB)



Anonimo

Dec 15, 2009, 10:39 AM

Post #2 of 14 (6937 views)

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Re: [Oscar2] Patzcuaro Bonito!

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caldo con maize y pedazos de puerco con cilantro y oregano



Sounds a lot like pozole, Oscar.

Saludos,
Anonimo


Oscar2

Dec 15, 2009, 4:05 PM

Post #3 of 14 (6901 views)

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Re: [Anonimo] Patzcuaro Bonito!

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Ananimo,

What a cool city you live near to. I can understand you making short visages there and enjoying a dish or two. Tell me, do you hit the Mercado often? I know you have a Pinchot for cooking and I believe your right about the pozole. I for one, like menudo, and I’ve heard you say its not one of your favorites, but pozole does not put tripe in with the caldo with the hominy but I believe other meats are acceptable.

Point being that this woman and her husband put nice cut pieces of puerco along with all the other ingredients in this red sopa and it was delicious. I’ve had pozole before but it wasn’t a favorite but if this was some form of pozole rojo, I’m now a convert….it must have been the puerco.


Anonimo

Dec 15, 2009, 4:22 PM

Post #4 of 14 (6894 views)

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Re: [Oscar2] Patzcuaro Bonito!

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Oscar, although I've not personally had it, I believe that the pozole sold in the Pátzcuaro mercado is known as pozole batido, in which the maíz is cooked long enough and perhaps beaten so that the soup is thicker than normal. Inland Michoacán is a good place for soups, as the weather is so cool.

We do almost all our vegetable shopping in the Pátzcuaro mercado, both for the low prices and the freshness of vegetables. I was there briefly today but only to but some local apples. They were a bit expensive, at $18 MXN a kilo.

We were there last Friday (a very busy day there) and bought many of our produce needs.
You might enjoy revisiting the mercado through my web gallery of photos here: http://tinyurl.com/kvy65z

Although I rejected menudo some years ago, I recently rediscovered it as an occasional good-for-what-ails-you at one of the menuderías across from the Plaza San Francisco.
http://picasaweb.google.com/...#5344302951790615442

Saludos,
Anonimo


wendy devlin

Dec 15, 2009, 7:40 PM

Post #5 of 14 (6869 views)

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Re: [Oscar2] Patzcuaro Bonito!

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Ja!ja! Oscar, you seem. Muy romantico.

Maybe I've learned way too much information about people, to be as romantic.

My grandfather used to tell me. "Beauty is truth. Truth is beauty. That's all you know.
That's all you need to know."
Another incurable romantic leaving an imprint on another young impressionable mind.

Noble sentiment. Perhaps, tempered with a bit of steel. Maybe, relevant in today's world?

Meanwhile, keep those confidences. The mean streets that many people inhabit, are less tolerable. And a lot less romantic. Some might suggest 'more real'.

However that the subject of reality, has long appeared a subject of philosophical/socio/economic debate. Your posts, always have a sense of 'Oscar' stamped all over them.

Muy Mexicano. Or so it seems to me. However I'm not Mexican so would defer to others who are.


Oscar2

Dec 15, 2009, 10:34 PM

Post #6 of 14 (6848 views)

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Re: [wendy devlin] Patzcuaro Bonito!

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Noble sentiment. Perhaps, tempered with a bit of steel. Maybe, relevant in today's world?

Meanwhile, keep those confidences. The mean streets that many people inhabit, are less tolerable. And a lot less romantic. Some might suggest 'more real'.


Yes, sometimes, so true. An incurable romantic born on a kitchen table from very young parents that initially, some what raised themselves from their meager existence and when my father past away when I was 22, I picked up the gauntlet from there and through the years in business, I did very well financially.

The years brought with it tough challenges through very tough neighborhoods and the people that inhabited them. The bit of steel you reference, almost killed me when I turned 21 but I was to damn honoree to accept the priest giving me my last rights. Life moved on and on and now in the sunsets of my life, I choose to live in the NOW! Being and consciousness leads a path of what I choose to be real, not what others would like to have me believe is real to them.

Its all good. Like the Mexicans taught me on this last trip to Mexico when I questioned something I felt needed questioning, they simply replied, “eso es.” (it is what it is)


(This post was edited by Oscar2 on Dec 15, 2009, 11:07 PM)


toddmc


Dec 17, 2009, 3:45 PM

Post #7 of 14 (6796 views)

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Re: [Oscar2] Patzcuaro Bonito!

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Oscar, we have just got back from Rancho la Mesa.
Oddly enough we had lunch with the same person, who is a good friend of ours.

I hear that not only did you enjoy the restaurant but that you moved the party to the family's home patio for an even more exclusive view.

So did you find Imelda for the tour? How was it?

Todd

*************************
Our new life in Patzcuaro: http://lifeinthecorazon.blogspot.com



(This post was edited by toddmc on Dec 17, 2009, 4:36 PM)


Oscar2

Dec 17, 2009, 5:18 PM

Post #8 of 14 (6777 views)

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Re: [toddmc] Patzcuaro Bonito!

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Todd,

It is a small world. How soon, how quaint it is to have lunch with the anonymous gent mentioned. He still remains a unique individual who brings thoughts of knowing someone of a good nature.

I believe you’ve been in Patzcuaro for sometime now and probably know the fellow in question for some time, as well. As for the tour my wife and I took, it was not only allot of fun but hilarious, went to the Carnitas epicenter and ate very well, followed by getting well inebriated with our tour guides at the Mescal factory. We had an excellent dinner just before sunset over looking one of the big lakes not to far from the Mescal factory. From nine in the morning till about eight at night we not only had an exclusive tour guide but more important we became good friends. Later on I turned him on to my profesora, I mentioned her at an earlier post “Cathedrals have a way of calling.”

I called him from Morelia, and clued him in on this gem of a gal, he came right out from Patzcuaro and we all went dancing Salsa in Morelia. Just the other day, I received an email from Maria Helena, mi profesora, and she clued us in on them still dating and going dancing with my tour guide we’ll just call Miguel. He’s a good Joe, speaks English well with a suave Mexican accent, Ricardo Mantablan style and hopefully that will be something that will win Maria Helena over for a long relationship.

Included is a picture of just one place the tour took us (thats all I can put on this post, unfortunately) during a very large celebration in a small town near Patzcuaro, I forgot the name.

(This post was edited by Oscar2 on Dec 17, 2009, 5:21 PM)
Attachments: Carnitas Carmelo-1.jpg (114 KB)


Anonimo

Dec 18, 2009, 2:57 AM

Post #9 of 14 (6745 views)

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Re: [Oscar2] Patzcuaro Bonito!

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Included is a picture of just one place the tour took us (thats all I can put on this post, unfortunately) during a very large celebration in a small town near Patzcuaro, I forgot the name.


I'm pretty sure that's in Quiroga. I have a picture of him, too, taken during a busy Independenca Día weekend a few years ago!
http://www.pbase.com/...s/image/67072071.jpg
I'm not absolutely certain it's the same person, but there's a little story.
When I asked if I could take his picture, he told me that If I brought him a print, he'd give me a quarter-kilo of carnitas free. So, it was more than a year and a half until we returned, and when I gave him the print, without reminding him of his promise, he did fulfill it.

Although we love carnitas, we try to restrict our annual intake in a losing effort to maintain our waistlines.

There are more photos taken in and around the "carnitas epicenter" as O2 so cleverly put it. I invite you to see them.
http://www.pbase.com/panos/quiroga_feria

Saludos,
Anonimo


toddmc


Dec 18, 2009, 4:20 AM

Post #10 of 14 (6743 views)

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Re: [Anonimo] Patzcuaro Bonito!

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Also just down the street is the Molcajetes place, great molcajetes but I think their alambres are my fav!

Todd

*************************
Our new life in Patzcuaro: http://lifeinthecorazon.blogspot.com



Anonimo

Dec 18, 2009, 5:21 AM

Post #11 of 14 (6741 views)

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Re: [toddmc] Patzcuaro Bonito!

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Also just down the street is the Molcajetes place, great molcajetes but I think their alambres are my fav!

Todd


Todd, if you are referring to the Tacos and Molcajetes "Los Compadres", we've only been once, but would gladly go again in a small group.

I see it was two years ago. Must go again!
http://mexkitchen.blogspot.com/...moley-molcajete.html

(This post was edited by Anonimo on Dec 18, 2009, 5:26 AM)


toddmc


Dec 18, 2009, 6:39 AM

Post #12 of 14 (6725 views)

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Re: [Anonimo] Patzcuaro Bonito!

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That is the place!

*************************
Our new life in Patzcuaro: http://lifeinthecorazon.blogspot.com



Oscar2

Dec 18, 2009, 11:01 AM

Post #13 of 14 (6698 views)

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Re: [Anonimo] Patzcuaro Bonito!

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Ah si, Quiroga is spot on. What a nice, very active town it was with all the celebrations of some saint’s day. Check the date on the photo, hopefully it will enlighten us. Our tour guide, he’s really a good Joe and being there that day was particularly exciting for him because he new the town very well. In fact he loved that town as if it were his own, and why shouldn’t he, his mother was born there.

The parades, the bands, the costumes were like a woven blanket covering the streets in bright colors and designs everyone shared in a tightly nit city wanting to be seen by all as the marching and celebration not only became contagious but our tour guide went from tears to smiles to laughter and even opted to start dancing in front of everyone even though the dancing hadn’t started.

Its good knowing some of these places are known by you and Todd. I feel I have company now and sharing now carries even greater meaning. Si Carnitas epicenter was spot on. In checking my photos, lined up were at least 7 carnita stands in a row and one sign in my photo read Los 7 Carmelos. When we arrived, I believe we were amongst the very few or maybe the only Americans who went up to the Carnitas stands at that time. Unbeknown to the wife and I, I ordered 2 cervezas frías, they took a quick corner eyed retake of who we were and said, para servile and took off quickly somewhere to get them. It was then our tour guide said, its a saints day today and drinking is not allowed but because your guests, they are making the exception. In short order not only did we have half a kilo of carnitas with all the trimmings but two ice cold cervezas. Graciousness prevailed and we delighted with slight reservations.

Ananimo, as I’ve mentioned before, I absolutely love the panorama of photo’s you’ve taken the time to catalog and display so well. They especially have more meaning now, why, because we’ve been there too, in more than one way. I don’t know when some of your pictures were taken but there is a couple in particular of what appears to be the daughter of one of the ladies cooking and selling some kind of food from a street stand. I mention this because the little girl in your picture seems perhaps like the younger girl of the one I took, perhaps because she is now older. To me, she was very pretty and maybe the same one but now older. They where selling cesadillas con nopales. Check it out.

(This post was edited by Oscar2 on Dec 18, 2009, 11:03 AM)
Attachments: Green Eyes-1.jpg (102 KB)


chinagringo


Dec 20, 2009, 5:49 PM

Post #14 of 14 (6603 views)

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Re: [Oscar2] Patzcuaro Bonito!

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Without being philosophical, after three visits/stays in Patzcuaro, it has become one of our favorite cities in all of Mexico!
Regards,
Neil
Albuquerque, NM

 
 
 
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