Mexican Wild Game - Duck And Quail Karen Hursh Graber

During the fall, when the weather changes, so do our culinary aspirations. Cooler temperatures inspire techniques like roasting, baking, braising, and a lot less outdoor cooking in most parts of the No... read more

food-drink history

The Pineapple: Sweet Symbol of the Tropics Karen Hursh Graber

"The pineapple," wrote Fernandez de Oviedo in the 16th century, "appeals to every sense but that of hearing." This chief steward to the royal family of Spain may seem, from a 21st century point of view... read more

food-drink history

Zacatecas: Culinary Gateway Karen Hursh Graber

The state of Zacatecas, in the northwestern part of the central Mexican plateau, has been culturally significant since pre-Hispanic times, when it was one of the few holdouts not conquered by the Aztec... read more

food-drink history Zacatecas

The French Influence On Mexican Cooking: La Comida Afrancescada Karen Hursh Graber

Modern Mexican cooking is considered by culinary historians to be a fusion of three cuisines - indigenous, Spanish and French. This column has covered pre-Hispanic ingredients and techniques in the pas... read more

book food-drink history

Early Fusion Food: Inside A Colonial Mexican Kitchen Reviewed by Karen Hursh Graber

One of the rewarding aspects of investigating the history and evolution of Mexico's rich and varied cuisine is the availability of authentic sources. The Spanish chroniclers took painstaking notes on n... read more

book-reviews food-drink history literature

A yearly culinary ritual: La matanza Karen Hursh Graber

Beginning in mid-October, and lasting for a month, a five-hundred-year-old ritual encompassing history, tradition and cuisine takes place in the valley of Tehuacan, in the Mixteca Poblana region of sou... read more

food-drink history indigenous-groups Tehuacán, Puebla

Cinnamon: Mexican cooks use the real thing Karen Hursh Graber

As part of the 16th century culinary fusion that resulted in Mexican cuisine, the Spaniards brought spices to the New World, along with olives and olive oil, almonds, grapes, dairy and wool-bearing ani... read more

conversions food-drink history

The Cuisine of Michoacán: Mexican Soul Food Karen Hursh Graber

If Michoacan is "the soul of Mexico," as it has often been called, then its food is Mexico's soul food, for few other places in the country can claim such a profound and long-lasting indigenous influence on their regional cuisine. This western state, part of the Bajio region located north and west of Mexico City, has retained its culinary roots for over a millennium.

The cuisine of Chiapas: Dining in Mexico's last frontier Karen Hursh Graber

Although the mention of Chiapas frequently brings to mind images of masked revolutionaries and steamy jungles, Mexico's southernmost state is a beautiful combination of mountains, plains and seacoast w... read more

cuisines food-drink history index-page Chiapas

Rice: The Gift Of The Other Gods Karen Hursh Graber

Just as corn was called "the gift of the gods" in ancient Mesoamerica, the same phrase was used for rice in what is now Southeast Asia. In several Asian languages, the word for rice and food is the sam... read more

food-drink history

Demystifying mole, Mexico's national dish Karen Hursh Graber

Although Cinco de Mayo, the national May 5th holiday commemorating the 1862 Battle of Puebla, is celebrated with much more fervor by Mexicans living in the United States than in Mexico, one exce... read more

food-drink history Oaxaca Puebla

Mexico's grain of the gods: Cooking with amaranth Karen Hursh Graber

What food was considered so important to the diet of Mexico's pre-Hispanic population that it was fashioned into images of the gods and eaten as communion? What food was outlawed during the conquest of... read more

food-drink history

Adding zest to summer's bounty: Tropical fruit accents for meat, fish or fowl Karen Hursh Graber

Last month's column discussed buying and storing summer fruit, as well as the versatile fruit salsas which are perfect for outdoor dining. This month some ideas for using fruit as part of the main cour... read more

food-drink history indigenous-groups

Vanilla: a Mexican native regains its reputation Karen Hursh Graber

Mention vanilla, and people are apt to think of the ice-cream flavor they select when confronted with a mind-boggling choice involving everything from chirimoya to cheesecake: "just plain vanilla." Wha... read more

food-drink history indigenous-groups

Mexican chocolate: A culinary evolution Karen Hursh Graber

Mexican chocolate refers to either the round, flat disks of cinnamon-scented chocolate found throughout the land, or the foamy drink made from them. This uniquely flavored sweet is popular in many othe... read more

food-drink history indigenous-groups

Fabulous frijoles: Mexico's versatile legumes Karen Hursh Graber

When asked by the New York Times magazine to write about the most important contribution of the past millennium, Italian author Umberto Eco chose the humble bean. In How the Bean Saved Western Civiliza... read more

food-drink history

Mexico's irresistible bakeries and breads: Las panaderias Karen Hursh Graber

Como pan caliente - "like hot bread"- is the expression used in Mexico to indicate something that is popular, best selling, or in demand. And indeed, going for hot bread is one of the daily culinary ro... read more

side-dishes