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bbc

Dec 15, 2005, 8:36 AM

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Mexico City to Xalapa

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With a late afternoon flight arrival in Mexico City, would it be best to stay overnight and get a bus to Xalapa in the morning? Does anyone have hotel recommendations?

Ed and Fran

Dec 15, 2005, 9:20 AM

Post #2 of 20 (5730 views)

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Re: [bbc] Mexico City to Xalapa

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Kind of depends on what time you are arriving. There are a lot of busses between DF (the TAPO terminal) and Jalapa, they run until about 2:00 a.m. The trip by bus will take around 4-1/2 hours. You need to add time to clear immigration and customs at the airport, plus allow 15 minutes to take the taxi to TAPO, plus buy tickets and make the connection. Let's say maybe 7-8 hours total from touchdown to arrival at Jalapa.

Personally, I'd try to get there the same night, catching some winks on the bus, even if it meant checking in at 1 or 2 a.m. Staying over in DF will result in your occupying the next day until mid-afternoon just getting to Xalapa.

jmho

Ed

bbc

Dec 15, 2005, 4:32 PM

Post #3 of 20 (5719 views)

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Re: [Ed and Fran] Mexico City to Xalapa

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Thank you. My grasp of Spanish is pretty basic, and I feel a little apprehensive arriving late at night in an unknown town (though I had no problems in Guadalajara). I was also thinking of going first to Cuernavaca or Puebla and then on from there the next day. What do you think?

Ed and Fran

Dec 15, 2005, 6:26 PM

Post #4 of 20 (5712 views)

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Re: [bbc] Mexico City to Xalapa

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My grasp of Spanish is pretty basic, and I feel a little apprehensive arriving late at night in an unknown town (though I had no problems in Guadalajara).

Assuming you have hotel reservations, then just having the name and address of the hotel spelled out on a piece of paper will be enough to get you there in a taxi from the bus station. Jalapa isn't that big or that dangerous. Of course, spending the night in Mexico City is easy to do. I just thought you'd want to maximize your time in Jalapa.

I was also thinking of going first to Cuernavaca or Puebla and then on from there the next day. What do you think?

Well, if your destination is Jalapa, then Cuernavaca is going in the wrong direction. I also wouldn't think that going to Puebla (if you're just trying to get to Jalapa) is worthwhile. While it's a slightly shorter bus ride, it's not directly towards Jalapa. You'll still have a 3-1/2 bus ride (plus taxis, etc) on day 2.

Both Cuernavaca and Puebla are interesting in their own and worth a visit. But if you're going to Jalapa, then neither is a very convenient way of getting there.

If you don't want to try to get to Jalapa on evening one, then your best bet is to stay in Mexico City. Enjoy the evening, see the Christmas lights they put up in the Zocalo, have a good dinner, get a good night's sleep, and go to Jalapa on day 2.

jmho, your mileage may vary

Ed

Bubba

Dec 16, 2005, 6:15 AM

Post #5 of 20 (5700 views)

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Re: [bbc] Mexico City to Xalapa

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Last time we were in Xalapa we stayed at Posada La Mariquinta calle Alfaro 12 the phone number used to be 18 11 58 They have added a few digits Ed probably will know which ones . laquinta@comtrade.com.mx
It is an old house that was remodelled and is nice . The owners are charming.

eportis

Dec 17, 2005, 2:44 PM

Post #6 of 20 (5679 views)

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Re: [Ed and Fran] Mexico City to Xalapa

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I hesitate to differ from Ed since he knows infinitely more about things Mexcian than I do. But I was in your situation last year and opted to spend the night in Puebla and would do so again. As you may already know, the advantage of Puebla is that you can catch a bus directly from the airport. The trip takes no more than two hours. The bus station in Puebla is centralized, so one can purchase a ticket for one of the many 1st class buses (ADO) going to Xalapa as soon as you arrive. Traffic in Puebla is nothing compared to Mexico City and getting to and from the Zocalo is relatively easy. There are a number of good Hotels there, and it offers a pleasant place to spend the evening. The bus trip to Xalapa is about three hours. Although the buses directly from Mexico City pass about 20 miles North of Puebla they only save a half hour by doing so. Used to be almost all traffic between the coast and Mexico City had to go through Puebla (including the Americans and the French during their respective invasions), so it really is not out of the way. Of course if it is important to spend that extra half day in Xalapa then Ed's advice is on the mark.

Ed and Fran

Dec 17, 2005, 4:02 PM

Post #7 of 20 (5672 views)

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Re: [eportis] Mexico City to Xalapa

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I hesitate to differ from Ed since he knows infinitely more about things Mexcian than I do.

Don't hesitate, different ideas are always welcome, thanks for joining in. It's not an issue of 'knowing more', it's having a different point of view or different experiences. Things that I recommend are obviously slanted by my preferences, which may not be those of the original poster. Plus, I've never had the experience of taking the bus from the airport, so there's another possibility I didn't include. While I might still prefer my recommendations, your suggestions are just as valid for bbc.

Regards

Ed

"El Gringo Jalapeño"

Dec 17, 2005, 8:07 PM

Post #8 of 20 (5668 views)

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Re: [bbc] Mexico City to Xalapa

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¡Hola, amigos costeños!
It is always good to see activity on this forum and to know that people will be coming to Xalapa. The suggestion by Ed is excellent, and if I were headed this way for the first time(remember I have been here for 33 years!), Puebla is an interesting city to start your trip to México. The Zocalo is a vibrant area, especially the pedestrian streets(I like the Hotel Colonial, a bit run down but in the center of activity). Be sure to visit the talavera museums, the Cathedral, and the capilla del Rosario, as well as the "tourist" mercado where you can have lunch. Your trip the next day to Xalapa will be interesting as you see the climatic changes, arriving here with probable "chipi-chipi"(drizzle)and cool/cold weather, so bring layers of clothes.
Now I will make a "gol" for my guide services and furnished rentals. Check out my webpage www.xalaparoy.com for more information. I know our esteemed webjefe doesn't like to have us making commercials, but I am sure Ed will vouch for my services and my rentals. I will be here for Christmas with the inlaws from Mexico City("Chilangos") and Guadalajara("Tapatios"), with the grandchildren livening up the place. Then we will spend New Years in Mexico City.
¡Bienvenidos a Xalapa y buen viaje!
Roy B. Dudley "El Gringo Jalapeño" See more about Xalapa at www.xalaparoy.com

Bloviator

Dec 18, 2005, 4:47 AM

Post #9 of 20 (5664 views)

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Re: ["El Gringo Jalapeño"] Mexico City to Xalapa

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Once again a very pertinent topic. We got information about "the best mall in Mexico" in Queretaro, where we will be tomorrow afternoon and night and now Puebla, where we will be spending Tuesday night. We had planned on cold weather, but not for rain. We are now warned.

If we start early from Queretaro, about what time should we arrive in Puebla? Am printing your post and hope to have time to see at least some of the things that you mention.

How long does it take midmorning midweek to drive from Puebla to Xalapa - I know that Christmas week is throwing a ringer into any ideas of normal driving times, but would appreciate an estimate.

Who's going to post about Vera Cruz tomorrow?

(This post was edited by dlyman6500 on Dec 18, 2005, 4:52 AM)

Ed and Fran

Dec 18, 2005, 1:33 PM

Post #10 of 20 (5644 views)

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Re: [dlyman6500] Mexico City to Xalapa

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Who's going to post about Vera Cruz tomorrow?

What would you like to know about Veracruz? How much time do you have? iirc, you're staying at the Emporio?

Best place to eat dinner - at the tables set up in front of the various restaurants all around the main plaza.

Best place to eat breakfast - either the "Gran Cafe de la Parroquia" just west of your hotel along the malecón, or under the arches at "Hotel Portales" across from the Cathedral. If you like coffee, order the 'lechero'. They put about an inch of really strong coffee (expresso?) in the bottom of a glass and fill the rest with hot milk, poured from arm's height. These guys are good.

Things to see - walk along the malecón (right in front of your hotel), the main plaza, tour of the harbor by boat, the aquarium (takes time), the fort of San Juan de Ulua (my favorite, but you need min 3 hours).

Or, you could stop and see La Antigua on your way to Veracruz. If you're coming down the autopista from Xalapa, after teeing into the coast highway at Cardel, it's just south of that junction. See link:
http://www.mexicodesconocido.com.mx/...idsec=2&idsub=13

Regards

Ed

eportis

Dec 18, 2005, 7:04 PM

Post #11 of 20 (5630 views)

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Re: [dlyman6500] Mexico City to Xalapa

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Ed's suggestions are all good. The Emporio would be the place I would stay if I were not so poor (or cheap). Many people think the Hotel Hawaii, also on the Malacon, is a nice and somewhat less expensive alternative. I have stayed at both the Hotels Colonial and Imperial on the Zocalo and found them to be fine, and much less expensive. And assuming tolerable weather, the zocalo is a really entertaining place to be -- so much so that there is never any reason to be bored in Veracruz. For wonderful seafood the places on the river at Boca de Rio (a suburb 10 miles south of the zocalo) cannot be beat.

raferguson

Dec 19, 2005, 4:30 PM

Post #12 of 20 (5606 views)

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Re: [dlyman6500] Mexico City to Xalapa

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If you are in Veracruz city do not miss the danzon (formal dancing) in the streets and squares.

The old fort is worth a visit if you like that kind of thing.

Keep an eye out for parades, concerts, and other events, we attended several.

Richard

http://www.fergusonsculpture.com

Bloviator

Dec 26, 2005, 8:54 AM

Post #13 of 20 (5564 views)

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Re: [Ed and Fran] Mexico City to Xalapa

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Thanks for the advice. Did it and enjoyed the food and people watching.

Bloviator

Dec 26, 2005, 9:01 AM

Post #14 of 20 (5564 views)

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Re: [eportis] Mexico City to Xalapa

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We stayed at the Emporio thanks to Expedia´s cheap rates. It´s nice, but quite sterile. Didn´t find Boca del Rio until on our way out of town. Wish we had seen it earlier. Lots of interesting looking places there, though pretty much a tourist and resort area.

MazDee

Dec 31, 2005, 5:31 PM

Post #15 of 20 (5527 views)

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Re: ["El Gringo Jalapeño"] Mexico City to Xalapa

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El Gringo Jalapeno, I looked at your web page for the first time, very interesting. I have one question. You state that "Pickled "serrano" chiles are known as jalapeños because Don Mario Jimenez began commercializing them from here." Well, as far as I know these are 2 kinds of chiles! Jalapenos are bigger, milder, and I think more flavorful than serranos. When I buy them en escabeche in a can, they look like jalapenos, not serrano chiles. Comment?
I DO want to visit Xalapa but my problem is I do most of my travelling in the summer to get OUT of the heat, and Xalapa would not be my choice then.

"El Gringo Jalapeño"

Jan 2, 2006, 9:20 PM

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Re: [MazDee] Mexico City to Xalapa

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MazDee:
My mother-in-law, Luisita, put me straight about which chiles are which. The "jalapeño" chile that is generic today was actually known as the "cuarasmeño" chile when she was young(84 years young now!), at least in the Xalapa area. Are there any other "chile" experts out there?(No pun intended!).
¡Feliz Año Nuevo para todos!
Roy B. Dudley "El Gringo Jalapeño" See more about Xalapa at www.xalaparoy.com

MazDee

Jan 2, 2006, 11:37 PM

Post #17 of 20 (5497 views)

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Re: ["El Gringo Jalapeño"] Mexico City to Xalapa

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Well, she's 84 years old, and has been in Mexico about 80 years longer than I have. I doubt anyone here will question her knowledge. Thanks for a lesson. Dee

Ed and Fran

Jan 3, 2006, 7:24 AM

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Re: [MazDee] Mexico City to Xalapa

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I'm certainly no expert on chiles, although I did eat a few yesterday, but it's easy to find lots of references out on the web regarding different types of chiles. :

From: http://www.fsma.org.mx/Palabra/Palabra.htm

Chile Jalapeño
Chile fresco, color verde o verde oscuro, de forma cónica alargada. Mide en promedio unos 6 cm de largo y 2.5 cm de ancho. Se le da este nombre porque se dice que antiguamente se cultivaba en Jalapa, Veracruz desde donde se comercializaba a otras partes, actualmente ya no se cultiva ahí, pero es un Chile muy famoso y utilizado en la Gastronomía Veracruzana. En la Capital también se le llama Chile Cuaresmeño porque antiguamente sólo lo llevaban durante la época de cuaresma. Cuando llega a su estado de maduración toma un color rojo intenso y se utiliza indistintamente como el verde. En las versiones secas es de los más importantes pues se convierte en el Chipotle

Chile Chipotle
Es uno de los Chiles más picosos de todos los secos, en promedio mide unos 6 cm de largo y unos 2.5 cm en su parte más ancha. Cuando fresco es el Chile Jalapeño. Su nombre proviene del Náhuatl; Chilli, Chile y Poctli, humo, "Chile Ahumado".Este Chile es de los más populares de todo México.

And a picture at:

http://mexico.udg.mx/...hiles/chi-gordo.html

This site still shows a difference between Jalapeño and Cuaresmeño:
http://www.saludymedicinas.com.mx/articulo2.asp?id=733

Cuaresmeño. Una de las variedades más populares; aromático, con textura rugosa, de color verde o rojizo y con una longitud entre 6 y 8 centímetros. Se utiliza en salsas y se prepara especialmente en escabeche. Recibe el nombre por la época en que popularmente se compra (cuaresma) para rellenarse de pescado o queso.
Chipotle. Es el chile cuaresmeño ahumado. Su forma más común de consumo es en adobo.
Jalapeño. Tiene color verde oscuro, es muy carnoso, y es originario de la capital del estado mexicano de Veracruz.
Serrano o verde. Es llamado así por su amplio cultivo en las sierras del centro del país (Puebla, Hidalgo y Estado de México). De piel lisa, con 3 a 5 cm. de largo y 1 de diámetro, tiene color verde intenso y brillante que pasa al naranja y al rojo según va madurando.

CiberChef agrees that the two are the same:
http://www.ciberchef.com/...D=1096&TablaId=2

Chile Jalapeño / Chile Cuaresmeño
Ají grande, carnoso de forma cónica es suavemente picante, de color verde brillante. Secado y ahumado, de color café/marrón se denomina chile chiplote y es muy picante.

This site has a very long description of the Jalapeño, and says it's still called Cuaresmeño in the D.F. It's certainly easy to find references to the Chile Cuaresmeño, so it's not just a name that was used in the past.
http://www.comidamexicana.hpg.ig.com.br/chilesmexicanos.htm

Chile Jalapeño.
Chile fresco, color verde o verde oscuro, de forma cónica alargada, a veces terminan en puntiagudo o chato, es carnoso con piel brillante. Mide en promedio unos 6 cm de largo y 2.5 cm de ancho. Se considera picoso o muy picoso. Es ampliamente cultivado en diferentes regiones del país por lo que se conoce por varios nombres, regionales o locales. Muy utilizado como Chile verde; crudo o cocido, da picor a diferentes salsas verdes, salsas de jitomate o salsas de mesa. Se puede rellenar de queso, se capea con huevo y funciona de botana.
El nombre de Chile Jalapeño es el más usado en todo el país, se le da este nombre porque se dice que antiguamente se cultivaba en Jalapa, Veracruz desde donde se comercializaba a otras partes, actualmente ya no se cultiva ahí, pero es un Chile muy famoso y utilizado en la Gastronomía Veracruzana. En la Capital también se le llama Chile Cuaresmeño porque antiguamente sólo lo llevaban durante la época de cuaresma, era un Chile especial para rellenar con queso o con atún. Existen algunas variedades regionales como el Chile Gordo en el puerto de Veracruz. El Chile Papaloapan variedad del Jalapeño chico que supuestamente crece cerca de Papaloapan, Veracruz. El Chile Rallado (o Meco), el Chile Acorchado (Chipotle) son chiles Jalapeños que presentan venas o rallas en la superficie de la piel, a veces pueden tener la forma típica del Jalapeño original, se reconoce, también, un Chile llamado "alegría", que tiene la forma típica de un Jalapeño grande, se dice que son muy picosos y que al comerlos causa "alegría", es decir, que el que se enchila hasta brincos pega. El Jalapeño más grande mide unos 12 cm de largo y unos 4 cm de ancho, es de color rojo y presenta rallas que simulan escamas de pez, que recuerdan al guachinango, de ahí su nombre y se encuentra en Oaxaca y Puebla.
Cuando llega a su estado de maduración toma un color rojo intenso y se utiliza indistintamente como el verde. En las versiones secas es de los más importantes pues se convierte en el Chipotle de gran aceptación en todo el país, este al secarse se ahuma y en muchas ocasiones se enlata en un adobo (salsa de vinagre) y hasta se preparan adobos dulces, resultando un Chile Chipotle muy picoso y dulce.

But most sites seem to agree that the Chile Jalapeño and the Chile Serrano are different species.

Regards

Ed

eportis

Jan 3, 2006, 2:07 PM

Post #19 of 20 (5479 views)

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Re: [MazDee] Mexico City to Xalapa

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I know very little of chiles, but I did spend much of last summer in Xalapa and found the climat to be very temperate, with highs usually in the high 70's or low 80's. We are presently living in Texas, so perhaps "hot" to us is significantly hotter than to residents of more temperate states. In any case, even though Xalapa is only about 50-60 miles from the city of Veracruz, they do not share the same climate. Indeed, we plan to spend most of this summer there in part to escape the heat.

MazDee

Jan 4, 2006, 12:31 AM

Post #20 of 20 (5462 views)

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Re: [eportis] Mexico City to Xalapa

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This is very interesting. I will have to take another look. Mazatlan isn't that hot in the summer, mostly in the mid 80's (F) and up to the low 90's. Portland, Oregon is often hotter in summer. The humidity here is what makes me want to crawl into an air conditioned hole. I walk around, dripping wet, and can't wait to get to my AC destination. I have no energy. It is not living the Good Life I want for retirement. I head for the mountains as often as possilble. Zacatecas, yes! Or even right up the road in the Sierras for the day. So, I am spoiled. But I will check out Xalapa more carefully. Thanks.