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Miguel Palomares


Aug 18, 2005, 2:57 PM

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UPGRADE TO LAKESIDE 2.0

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Due to skyrocketing prices around Lake Chapala (the original Lakeside) and in San Miguel de Allende, a new Lakeside is awaiting those who dream of la vida mexicana.

The new draw, which henceforth will be known as Lakeside Two, is the area around Lake Patzcuaro, Michoacan. Most clear-headed observers concede it is a far nicer lake than Chapala. Indeed, the area in question has been likened to the topography of the Hawaiian Islands.

The area is rapidly changing, and smart Gringos will want to get in on the ground floor.

First, there is the matter of prices. If you want to move to Mexico and buy a house or property for the same price you would have paid in San Francisco, Houston or New York, then the Chapala area or San Miguel is waiting for you with outstretched palms. Literally. The raw truth is that the locals are on to you, big time, in those glitzy areas.

Patzcuaro, roughly the same size as San Miguel, offers this: Lower prices, a beautiful Colonial atmosphere with cobblestone streets, a language school, and (like Chapala and San Miguel) proximity to a large city with an abundance of shopping opportunities and an international airport. That would be Morelia, the state capital, where construction will begin on Paseo Morelia, rumored to be the largest shopping mall in Latin America. Whether that claim is true, I cannot say, but with a million square feet and 170 commercial tenants, it will surely rival the Santa Fe Mall in Mexico City.

So, there is your shopping opportunity, and it is one among many in beautiful Colonial Morelia, a 40-minute drive from Lakeside Two.

In Patzcuaro, for those who have not been here for a spell, or perhaps never, you will find:

1. A beautiful, enormous, tree-lined Plaza Grande that puts the runty plaza in San Miguel to shame. Within the last year, new lighting was installed all around the plaza and fountains. It is a stunning sight at night, especially on Sundays when the locals stroll to and fro, socializing. You may join the parade.

2. A brand-new, two-level Casa de Artesanias at the city entrance, is due to open soon. This will, I imagine, house primo examples of the famous and various artesanias that come from the small pueblos that circle Lake Patzcuaro.

3. Just a short walk down the street you will find a three-story edifice, under construction, that will house the Mercado de Antojitos. All the food stands that now crowd the outdoor market off the Plaza Chica will be moved into the new Mercado de Antojitos.

4. For you health buffs and/or alcoholics, there is the Club Vista del Rey, just two years old, which sits on a high hillside just a few blocks from the Plaza Grande. With a stunning view of the mountains and lake, it offers tennis, basketball, track, squash, separate gyms for men and women, sauna, a semi-olympic, heated swimming pool, a restaurant and bar.

5. Need help buying your Lakeside Two hacienda or small home? The city now boasts a Century 21 office near the Plaza Grande, and Remax recently opened for business just a block away.

6. Lakeside Two has long had fine Mexican restaurants, but for those of you who like a little variety, we have new additions. There is the recently opened Restaurante Cha-Cha-Cha, just down from the Basilica, which offers excellent international cuisine at far better prices than you will find in San Miguel or that other Lakeside. It is owned by a San Francisco transplant and his partner. On the Plaza Grande is El Primer Piso, which also offers international cuisine. There is also La Pasta Nostra, near Siete Esquinas, which has Italian dining. La Puerta Roja, just a block from the Plaza Grande, specializes in the food of Spain. Want to sit under the portal on the Plaza Grande, try La Surtidora, another relative newcomer on the ever-expanding dining scene. This list goes on and on.

7. Another welcome addition to Lakeside Two is an English-language bookstore, opened not too long ago by U.S. expat Will Chapman. He has expansion plans and wants new customers.

8. High-speed wireless internet is available for you computer devotees. And, of course, you have various TV cable options to choose from.

9. Health care? The new, ultramodern Star Medica Hospital complex in Morelia has everything you likely will need, just 40 minutes away.

Lakeside Two is on the move and changing. You do not want to make the drive to Morelia for that Gringo shopping? There are powerful rumors (not denied by local government) that WalMart will be coming to town, perhaps with a Cinepolis in its wake. These will, of course, not be directly in el Centro, which is rigorously controlled to maintain the charming Colonial atmosphere.

Before you groan, consider the Gigante supermarket on the outskirts of San Miguel. Has that killed the town? Of course not. It is a plus. WalMart will be a welcome addition here, too.

You may have heard that it gets cold here. It does, but the winters vary. However, the nippy season generally lasts only about ten weeks. And during the hot months, Lakeside Two is far more pleasant than Chapala or San Miguel.

To heat your home during the relatively brief chilly season, it is a simple matter of buying portable and attractive gas heaters that are now widely available. If you really want to go upscale in your renovation or home construction, heating floor grids are the new, trendy thing. And, of course, there are the old, romantic standbys: fireplaces.

The bottom line is that you have missed your opportunity to get in on the ground floor in Chapala or San Miguel. Your best chance now is Lakeside Two: Patzcuaro, Michoacan.

Do not wait until it is too late. You will be kicking yourself.

I moved here five years ago. Smart guy that I am.

Kudos to one Mr. Sparks for the photos of Patzcuaro. See link in second paragraph.
From Tzurumutaro, Michoacan, "The Village of the Darned."
_______________________________________

The nuts and bolts of moving to Mexico:
http://michaeldickson.blogspot.com/
The dark side of living in Mexico:
http://mexicopeeks.blogspot.com/
Scintillating life in a Mexican pueblo:
http://tzurumutaro.blogspot.com/
http://tzurumutaro2.blogspot.com/

(This post was edited by palomares on Aug 18, 2005, 5:49 PM)



Bubba

Aug 18, 2005, 3:42 PM

Post #2 of 43 (2970 views)

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Re: [palomares] UPGRADE TO LAKESIDE 2.0

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Oh, Palomares!

You are a sneak. You said you were disappearing forever when, in fact, you were attending Century 21's new Lake Patzcuaro sales seminar and have now re-emerged as a real estate agent.

Now, my wife and I are big Patzcuaro fans and I cannot deny that this is a beautiful place and the Lake Chapala area has become rather expensive. However, one must objectively assert that the winter cold and overcast in Patzcuaro is more pronounced than you admit. Also, Lake Patzcuaro is terribly polluted and perhaps destined to become a dead sea because of its physical characteristics and the fact that tons of untreated agua negra from communities along the shore pour into the lake every day. Furthermore, everyone knows that Morelia is Ned-In-The-First-Reader when compared to Guadalajara.

Further to this discussion, potential Lake Chapala retirees with whom I spoke today asked what a house that went for under $2.000,000 Pesos in Ajijic in 2000 might go for today and I had to tell them $3,500,000 to $4,000,000 Pesos in this market at minimum. Maybe I'll move to Patzcuaro and put in a heater. Can I get Comedy Central there?


Miguel Palomares


Aug 18, 2005, 4:12 PM

Post #3 of 43 (2958 views)

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Re: [Bubba] UPGRADE TO LAKESIDE 2.0

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Actually, Mr. Bubba, Morelia is a world of improvement over the sprawling urban area of Guadalajara. No contest.

And, of course, Lake Patzcuaro, like countless areas of Mexico, has pollution problems. Cannot be too bad. Ask the jet skiers and sailboaters. I have never noticed recreational water activities around Ajijic. Perhaps I was not paying adequate attention. Compared to Lake Chapala, Lake Patzcuaro is a crystal fountain, most would admit.

I would imagine Comedy Central is available. I do not have TV here in Tzurumutaro.

Perhaps Century 21 or Remax will offer me a humble commission for speaking the truth. That would be nice.
From Tzurumutaro, Michoacan, "The Village of the Darned."
_______________________________________

The nuts and bolts of moving to Mexico:
http://michaeldickson.blogspot.com/
The dark side of living in Mexico:
http://mexicopeeks.blogspot.com/
Scintillating life in a Mexican pueblo:
http://tzurumutaro.blogspot.com/
http://tzurumutaro2.blogspot.com/


Anonimo

Aug 18, 2005, 4:33 PM

Post #4 of 43 (2946 views)

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Gosh, we are moving there next month. That won't be too late to get in on the ground floor, will it?

Saludos,
Anonimo


Bubba

Aug 18, 2005, 4:34 PM

Post #5 of 43 (2944 views)

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Well, no matter. I hope this means you are back and participating but "crystal fountain"? Maybe Lake Bacalar but in Jalisco's and Michoacan's main muddy sumps, I think not. However, I endorse your comments about Patzcuaro. This is a beautiful place, folks and, unless I am mistaken, a lot cheaper than the north shore of Lake Chapala. I still say comparing Morelia with Guadalajara is like comparing Omaha with Chicago.


raferguson


Aug 18, 2005, 4:38 PM

Post #6 of 43 (2938 views)

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I confess to a certain amount of cynicism and skepticism when I read such a glowing report about anything, whether it is a geographic area or a shampoo. Do you deny any and all financial interest in promoting Patzcuaro? I assume that you are not in the real estate business, which was my first guess.

I guess the other alternative to financial interest is honest belief on your part that you live in the best of all possible places in the known universe. Unfortunately, as a frequent cynic, I would guess both financial interest and honest belief.

Richard


http://www.fergusonsculpture.com


johanson


Aug 18, 2005, 5:17 PM

Post #7 of 43 (2923 views)

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I've been know to exaggerate a little bit about Ajijic. Nothing wrong with that. Your post took a lot of time and effort, Palomares, and I thank you very much for your information. Having read many of your previous posts I have no reason to disbelieve you.

You have peaked my curiosity and I am looking forward to visiting the Lake Patzcuaro area.



Gringal

Aug 18, 2005, 5:28 PM

Post #8 of 43 (2916 views)

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Welcome back. I see you haven't changed a tad. The thought of water sports on Lake P. makes me think of the olden days in the Sausalito houseboat community when the raw sewage went into the Bay. The waterskiers were highly motivated to avoid falling in. The trolling is probably good safe recreation, though. Enjoy.


Miguel Palomares


Aug 18, 2005, 5:57 PM

Post #9 of 43 (2901 views)

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Re: [Bubba] UPGRADE TO LAKESIDE 2.0

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I still say comparing Morelia with Guadalajara is like comparing Omaha with Chicago.


Actually, Mr. Bubba, there was a time in which I would have agreed with you. My early life in Mexico, just five years ago, was spent in Morelia. I lived there six months in the year 2000. Omaha, it was. Snooze.

But, in the past year or two, Morelia has been upgrading itself notably. The same has been going on here in Lakeside Two.

Take a look:

http://www.visitmorelia.com/english/

And that magnificent shopping mall that is on the way will be a wonder. Those of us who live in Lakeside Two can have our cobblestone streets and tile roofs. But when we need a Gringo-style shopping fix, it will be just 40 minutes away.

Oh, boy.
From Tzurumutaro, Michoacan, "The Village of the Darned."
_______________________________________

The nuts and bolts of moving to Mexico:
http://michaeldickson.blogspot.com/
The dark side of living in Mexico:
http://mexicopeeks.blogspot.com/
Scintillating life in a Mexican pueblo:
http://tzurumutaro.blogspot.com/
http://tzurumutaro2.blogspot.com/

(This post was edited by palomares on Aug 18, 2005, 5:58 PM)


Miguel Palomares


Aug 18, 2005, 6:01 PM

Post #10 of 43 (2895 views)

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Re: [Gringal] UPGRADE TO LAKESIDE 2.0

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You sound skeptical that there are water sports on Lake Patzcuaro. Oddly, there are. Jet skies, sailboats. Take a look.

If one wants a more pristine lake environment, Lake Zirahuen, about 15 miles from Lakeside Two, fills the bill. Gringos are moving there, too.
From Tzurumutaro, Michoacan, "The Village of the Darned."
_______________________________________

The nuts and bolts of moving to Mexico:
http://michaeldickson.blogspot.com/
The dark side of living in Mexico:
http://mexicopeeks.blogspot.com/
Scintillating life in a Mexican pueblo:
http://tzurumutaro.blogspot.com/
http://tzurumutaro2.blogspot.com/


Miguel Palomares


Aug 18, 2005, 6:14 PM

Post #11 of 43 (2887 views)

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Re: [raferguson] UPGRADE TO LAKESIDE 2.0

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Mr. Raferguson says:


Quote
Do you deny any and all financial interest in promoting Patzcuaro? I assume that you are not in the real estate business, which was my first guess.


Yes, sir, I do so deny. One, I do not need the money. Gracias a Dios. Y a la Diosa tambien. Two, I am far too introverted to be a pitchman or sales rep of any sort.

Patzcuaro, ooops, Lakeside Two, up until the last year or so has been a pretty sleepy place. Okay, I will say it: Dullsville, though a picturesque Colonial Dullsville.

But things are happening here! I like that, and I want to encourage it. A few more Gringos perhaps will bring more services, more good restaurants, generally accelerate that which is already happening.

In short, it is becoming what I have wanted it to be from the get-go. And anybody interested in retiring to Mexico could do faaaar worse than Lakeside Two. You betcha.
From Tzurumutaro, Michoacan, "The Village of the Darned."
_______________________________________

The nuts and bolts of moving to Mexico:
http://michaeldickson.blogspot.com/
The dark side of living in Mexico:
http://mexicopeeks.blogspot.com/
Scintillating life in a Mexican pueblo:
http://tzurumutaro.blogspot.com/
http://tzurumutaro2.blogspot.com/


jacpowell

Aug 18, 2005, 7:36 PM

Post #12 of 43 (2857 views)

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"In short, it has become what I have wanted it to be from the get-go."

Be careful what you wish for. Also, wouldn't it have been better to have found a place you didn't want/need to change to fit your own image?

Jackie Powell (NOT the famous Ms. Powell)


Marlene


Aug 18, 2005, 8:45 PM

Post #13 of 43 (2832 views)

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Friends of mine from Mazatlán recently moved (last month) to Lakeside Dos and report back that they are completely enamored, sweaters and all! I fear a trend!


Miguel Palomares


Aug 19, 2005, 5:59 AM

Post #14 of 43 (2801 views)

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Jackie saith:


Quote
Be careful what you wish for.


I assume you mean we may turn into a San Miguel here. That has been talked about over the years in these parts because, really, this area is (especially now) more appealing than San Miguel in many respects. Yes, this is a concern.

Though I (and many others) find San Miguel jarring due to the overwhelming number of outsiders wearing plaid bermudas, it sure offers up a lot of plusses in the way of shopping, restaurants, etc.

The shopping, restaurants, etc., are erupting in these parts, especially when one considers the proximity of an equally blooming Morelia just 40 minutes away by four-lane highway (tollfree!).

And it took San Miguel half a century to develop its split personality, people-wise. If that evolution happens here, it will take that long or longer and I will be pushing up daisies.

Are you related to Ginny Powell? I imagine not. She is a piece of work. Lives not too far from here, over in Quiroga, and we get together now and then. The horse-dog is a pain in the butt. (Pardon, Ginny, but you know it is so.)
From Tzurumutaro, Michoacan, "The Village of the Darned."
_______________________________________

The nuts and bolts of moving to Mexico:
http://michaeldickson.blogspot.com/
The dark side of living in Mexico:
http://mexicopeeks.blogspot.com/
Scintillating life in a Mexican pueblo:
http://tzurumutaro.blogspot.com/
http://tzurumutaro2.blogspot.com/

(This post was edited by palomares on Aug 19, 2005, 6:23 AM)


johnv

Aug 19, 2005, 7:46 AM

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It didn't take half a century for San Miguel to go down the tubes. I last lived there at the end of 1988 and all was fine. I was away from Mexico until 2002 and when I returned to live in my beloved San Miguel, I found it not much to my liking, so I chose to live in Guanajuato instead. It only took 15 years, possibly less.


Anonimo

Aug 19, 2005, 8:21 AM

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3. Just a short walk down the street you will find a three-story edifice, under construction, that will house the Mercado de Antojitos. All the food stands that now crowd the outdoor market off the Plaza Chica will be moved into the new Mercado de Antojitos.

I hope that the new Mercado de Antojitos is not so sterile as to lose the warm, greasy charm of the present location.
http://www.pbase.com/panos/image/27215321 (Seven photos in all)

Saludos,
Anonimo


Rick

Aug 19, 2005, 9:14 AM

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San Miguel has a lot to do in the evenings- concerts, movies, art openings, etc. How does "lakeside two'" compare in that regard?

Rick


Miguel Palomares


Aug 19, 2005, 9:54 AM

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Lakeside Two can in no way be compared to San Miguel. This is both good and bad. We actually have a Mexican town here. They do not. Most people here speak Spanish and wear long pants and skirts. Most people in San Miguel speak English and wear bermuda shorts. A lot of the women wear very sturdy sandals. There are far more cultural activities in San Miguel, of course.

As I mentioned up top, things here are changing. The closest movie theater right now is in Morelia, 40 minutes away. Morelia has three huge movie complexes. We have concerts here. In the Plaza, in a Casa de Cultura and, a few blocks away, in a beautifully restored old theater that used to belong to a now-departed uncle of my lovely esposa.

There are also art exhibitions in the Casa de Cultura, known locally as the Ex-Colegio Jesuita. There are, percentage-wise, quite a few artists living in Patzcuaro.

Alas, there is not a single real privately owned art gallery here. We need some of that.

From Tzurumutaro, Michoacan, "The Village of the Darned."
_______________________________________

The nuts and bolts of moving to Mexico:
http://michaeldickson.blogspot.com/
The dark side of living in Mexico:
http://mexicopeeks.blogspot.com/
Scintillating life in a Mexican pueblo:
http://tzurumutaro.blogspot.com/
http://tzurumutaro2.blogspot.com/


Bubba

Aug 19, 2005, 9:59 AM

Post #19 of 43 (2704 views)

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Re: [Anonimo] UPGRADE TO LAKESIDE 2.0

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I promise you, Anonimo, the Mercado de Antojitos will not lose its greasiness. Maybe some charm.

Perhaps I should note that my comments about Lake Patzcuaro becoming a dead sea because of pollution and drainage problems came straight out of the Guadalajara press, specifically a lengthy article in MURAL. That having been said, I understand that the whitefish one is served in Patzcuaro is farmed and therefore not radioactive or at least that is what I was told.

If one is considering moving to the Patzcuaro area, something I think my wife might have forced me to do already if our home in Ajijic weren't so pleasant, I suggest that one consider lakefront property adjacent to Tzintzuntzan where there are some beautiful and relatively isolated properties. Also the area along the free road (Highway 14) from Patzcuaro to Uruapan is mighty pretty and there might be some nice properties in them thar hills.

Actually, since Lakeside The First is getting a wee bit crowded to say the least and to a large extent with more and more expats who have close to zero interest in Mexico, I wish to encourage Palomares to continue to sing the virtues of Michoacan before the Ajijic area becomes Peoria South unless it's already too late.


(This post was edited by Bubba on Aug 19, 2005, 10:11 AM)


trailrunner

Aug 19, 2005, 10:16 AM

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Too late, Bubba, it already is Peoria!

"Alas, there is not a single real privately owned art gallery here. We need some of that."

Michael, what else do you need some of there?


gpk

Aug 19, 2005, 11:02 AM

Post #21 of 43 (2676 views)

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"There are far more cultural activities in San Miguel, of course."

I think if you eliminate the "cultural activites" geared towards the gringo population in San Miguel, Patzcuaro may have as much or more. A friend in SMA who supposedly loves theater was shocked a few years ago when I asked if he was going to see the traveling production of "PS My Cat Is Dead". "Why would I go see that--it's in Spanish?" he said.


Gringal

Aug 19, 2005, 1:22 PM

Post #22 of 43 (2632 views)

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 "Most people here speak Spanish and wear long pants and skirts. Most people in San Miguel speak English and wear bermuda shorts. A lot of the women wear very sturdy sandals."
__________________________________________________________________________________________________

Considering the relative percentages of native Mexicans to gringos in SMA, that must mean that we have a very high percentage of English speaking Mexicans here. Not in my neighborhood, but I won't split hairs. Now about those shorts. Do we have to count tourists? Their problem, poor dears, is that the B&B's don't have full length mirrors.

About your wishes for a little more action up your way (aka Lakeside II), I provide the following cautionary tale from a wise old realtor. If you move to a place that is not already developed and hope for certain changes in the future, you could be in for a heap of trouble as the folks moving in may not share your standards. Better to move to an already done deal and find your spot away from the fray. So, move on down to San Miguel into the outer colonias. Slip into town for some art openings, a fine dinner and scoot on back home for the sound of roof dogs, roosters and firecrackers at dawn. In winter, you won't freeze you assets for ten weeks. During the brief cold spell, you can join your neighbors warming up on the doorstoops. Feel good about your looks when you check out the obese tourists in their bermudas. When they get through turning Lakeside II into Peoria, you'll thank yourself. Or me.


Miguel Palomares


Aug 19, 2005, 2:59 PM

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Rick, I neglected to mention one of the nicest things going here, La Casa de la Real Aduana.

About three years ago, a very well-off French photographer (apparently charges a bunch for fashion and advertising work internationally) named Didier Dorval moved to Lakeside Two with his Mexican wife, Jenna.

They bought an absolutely huge, rambling colonial edifice on Calle Ponce de Leon just a half block from the Plaza Grande. The building once was the Custom House in the viceregal era. It was a neglected mess, and over the next year or so, they restored it to an eye-opening splendor. It is now an elegant "private hotel," which, Didier tells me, means you cannot just walk in off the street. Indeed, there is no mention of a hotel outside. It just says, La Casa de la Real Aduana. They also serve elegant meals by special order, have art exhibitions and concerts by small groups they bring in from around and outside Mexico. Those are open to the public for a San Miguel-type charge. The concerts, that is. The art exhibitions are open to the public.

An interesting note, I think, is that here where I live in the Patzcuaro colonia of Tzurumutaro, I have a neighbor named Judith Deim. She is an artist, age 95. She was a bud of John Steinbeck, perhaps more than a bud, long, long ago. Occasionally, the Sundance Channel (I have been told) runs a program called Sun Bird, the Life and Art of Judith Diem. At the Steinbeck Museum in Salinas, California, there is a portrait she did of the author. She has art exhibits in Patzcuaro now and then.

There are only three Gringos living in Tzurumutaro. Me, Deim and Will Chapman who runs the English-language bookstore out of his renovated home. The very big beautiful plaza of Tzurumutaro, which once was a separate pueblo, was renovated extensively last year. Things are popping. A branch of Morelia's Casa de Artesanias was built two years ago on a corner of our plaza.
From Tzurumutaro, Michoacan, "The Village of the Darned."
_______________________________________

The nuts and bolts of moving to Mexico:
http://michaeldickson.blogspot.com/
The dark side of living in Mexico:
http://mexicopeeks.blogspot.com/
Scintillating life in a Mexican pueblo:
http://tzurumutaro.blogspot.com/
http://tzurumutaro2.blogspot.com/

(This post was edited by palomares on Aug 19, 2005, 3:12 PM)


Anonimo

Aug 19, 2005, 4:25 PM

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I looked up La Casa de la Real Aduana and it has a Web presence on Mexonline. http://www.mexonline.com/real-aduana.htm
It would be like staying in a museum. Check this out.

Saludos,
Anonimo


Bubba

Aug 19, 2005, 5:24 PM

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Palomares:

When discussing exclusive hostels, obscure artists, acquaintances of note only among the cogniscenti, admired colonias known to a few but presumably important sniffers of air higher and rarer than most of us get to breathe and the pleasures of exclusivity, perhaps a forum with a more prestigious membership would be appropriate. That last post gave me the impression that Patzcuaro is less important than the notion of a mythic Patzcuaro boosting your own ego. In the real Patzcuaro tonight, just about everybody but you will be feasting on tortillas and beans under a bare bulb hanging from the ceiling.

The reason Patzcuaro remains an attractive colonial backwater today is because they moved the capital of Michoacan to Morelia many years ago and never updated the place because anybody of any importance who could get out of there for 200 years did so. Such is life. Let's not try to make diamonds from dust overnight just because they now have three multiplex cinemas and a WalMart in Morelia 70 kilometers away.

Relax. We all know you have it made.
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