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alcuban

Feb 10, 2005, 2:13 PM

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Lake Chapala

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It's not my intention to start an electronic war of words with the many loyal fans of Lake Chapala. But following is an article from the Wall Street Journal from about 18 months ago, that confirms what I saw when I was there. Maybe the lake has recovered since then. I hope so for the sake of all the people and animals affected.

September 7, 2003, Sunday
SECTION: NEWS;Pg. A-21

LENGTH: 1190 words

HEADLINE: Dwindling of Mexico's Lake Chapala alarms many; Drought, farming, development and political infighting blamed

BYLINE: Jim Carlton; THE WALL STREET JOURNAL

BODY:
AJIJIC, Mexico -- When Dennis and Ellen Allison retired to this quaint fishing village in 1992, their new three-bedroom home was only a block from Lake Chapala, the largest freshwater body in Mexico.

The lake's edge is now about a mile away, having receded steadily during the couple's 11 years here. The newly exposed lake bottom is filling up with trees, brush and rows of corn planted by Mexican peasants who toil in white straw hats where fish used to swim.

"This isn't at all what we expected," said Dennis Allison, 69, who retired from an engineering job in Minneapolis.

Long considered a national treasure in Mexico, Lake Chapala in the state of Jalisco is shrinking so fast that many people here worry about damage to the environment and the Mexican economy. Since the 1970s, scientists say, the lake has lost about 80 percent of its intake water due to heavy development in central Mexico.

The lake is fed primarily by the Rio Lerma, which meanders through several hundred miles of arid farmland and supports about 11 million people along its banks. Farmers in recent years have taken to diverting almost all of the river's flow to irrigation, often with outmoded techniques that experts say use up much more water than necessary. At the same time, the bustling manufacturing center of Guadalajara lies downstream and draws on the lake as its principal source of water.

The Mexican government has done little to arrest the decline, partly because of political infighting, some officials say, but also because of the difficulties of addressing the region's cyclical droughts, which have been exacerbated by rapid population growth.

With the lake less 16 feet at its deepest, or about half its depth when the decline began in 1977, the shrinkage is affecting the local economy. Many U.S. and Canadian retirees who have settled here report their home values have declined as much as 5 percent in the past three years. Before that, home values were mostly rising, as some 10,000 U.S. and Canadian expatriates crowded the shores in recent decades to take advantage of Mexico's lower cost of living and a mild climate that the lake helped create.

The homeowners attribute the falloff in values mainly to the lake's decline, which not only detracts from the scenery but also makes the region hotter.

"If the lake goes, this will not be a nice place to live," said 68-year-old Joe De Leon, a retiree from Port Arthur, Texas.

He adds that his wife has given up her year-round gardening hobby because temperatures have climbed well past 90 degrees on many days when they used to hover more comfortably in the low 80s.

Since spending by the expatriates generates some $200 million annually, a fall in Lake Chapala's popularity could crimp an important revenue source in an impoverished region.

Meanwhile, economists say nearby Guadalajara soon may be unable to keep supplying enough water to all the factories that have set up shop in recent years. Already, the city of nearly 4 million has imposed water restrictions on certain neighborhoods because demand for water has outstripped supply by almost 40 percent. The population, which has jumped by nearly a million in the past decade, continues to expand.

"The low level of Chapala is the reason we are short of water," said Jose Macas, a local state water manager.

He adds that a dam is being planned on a nearby river to give Guadalajara another source of water.

Lake Chapala's plight has aroused international concern. Last year, the United Nations agreed to consider including the lake on its list of ecological places most critically endangered, an act that would make it eligible for international loan assistance as a World Heritage Site. A decision is expected in the coming year. The Living Lakes network, an association of groups coordinated by the Global Nature Fund in Radolfzell, Germany, also is considering adding Lake Chapala to its list of lakes worldwide that are either drying up or threatened by development. A decision is expected soon, which could pave the way for more global funds to help reverse the lake's decline.

Mexican officials first began noticing a problem in Lake Chapala in the early 1980s, when the lake's level plunged after a severe drought. Although the lake historically has risen and fallen with rain cycles, that time it didn't rebound when monsoons returned.

Needing outside technical help, the federal government called in scientists from Baylor University in Texas. Owen Lind, a Baylor biologist and head of a team that specializes in studying shallow lakes like Chapala, began flying down every few weeks to sample the water to see what impact the drop-off was having on its quality. His tests confirmed what some local fishermen suspected because of their declining catches: The lake was becoming a dead zone for marine life. The shallower water was becoming too muddy to produce enough algae for all the fish to eat. Meanwhile, pollution has been pouring in from farms, factories and cities upstream, according to Jose de Jesus Gonzalez, director of water research at the University of Guadalajara.

On a recent visit, Lind found little progress in curbing the pollution, despite the fact the Mexican government has taken steps such as constructing several new sewage-treatment plants in the area. Along the Rio Lerma outside the sleepy pueblo of La Piedad, for instance, Lind and his wife, Laura Davalos-Lind, another Baylor biologist, led a vanload of Baylor scientists to a new plant that workers said wasn't functional because of technical problems.

Numerous scientific meetings have been convened to review Lake Chapala's decline. In 1992, the state of Jalisco, where most of Lake Chapala sits, managed to persuade five states upstream to agree that more river water should reach the lake. But Mexico's National Water Commission, which sets usage in the river and pledged its cooperation at the time, Jalisco officials say, didn't begin ordering dam releases on the river to feed the lake until 1999. It has done so only a few times since.

Federal water officials deny they agreed to any special set-aside for Lake Chapala, and add they had to wait until rains could refill a dam sufficiently to release more water. They also attribute the lake's decline more to naturally occurring drought than man-made factors. The region has been locked in 10-year dry spell.

"We hope to be starting a wet cycle now," National Water Commission spokesman Eugenio Garcia said as a monsoonal storm darkened the sky outside his Guadalajara office.

He added the government is overseeing plans to restore the lake to a healthy level by 2010, such as by getting farmers to use more efficient irrigation practices.

Critics are skeptical, and say unless something happens soon the lake is in danger of becoming uninhabitable for most fish in as little as five years. Already, several species have been essentially wiped out, including a whitefish famed for its delicate taste.

"Time is awfully close to running out," said Lind as he guided his van past newly dug farms along the exposed lake bottom.



Kip


Feb 10, 2005, 2:29 PM

Post #2 of 22 (2856 views)

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Re: [alcuban] Lake Chapala

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I'd say it's just a tad behind the times!

Kip
kip


skwala

Feb 10, 2005, 2:51 PM

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Re: [Kip] Lake Chapala

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One wonders why the original poster argues so vehemently with those who are speaking as we speak, and have wet feet to prove their point. Things change, lakes most particularly among them. Viva wet season!


Bubba

Feb 10, 2005, 3:17 PM

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Re: [alcuban] Lake Chapala

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Alcuban has made a fool of himself by using outdated data to make a point the purpose of which is indiscernable to the reader. Even at the time of the sited article's publication, September, 2003, the article disgraced its publisher with unresearched material of no value. It was a New York Times fluff piece meant to be nothing more than cheap filler to make that extraordinary waste of paper a bargain for its sycophants. The problem with Alcuban's posting is that he/she asserted that he/she had recently visited these shores when clearly he/she had not been anywhere near Lake Chapala ever, much less recently. This person speaks in another thread of having been repulsed by a place never visited. Well, I understand that. I am repulsed by Newark, New Jersey but that does not give me the right to pontificate ignorantly upon that place which, no doubt, gives pleasure to some.

Alcuban thinks, perhaps, that those posting and reading hereabouts are all ignorant hillbillies. Think again. No more than 98% of us are Dufuses. There is always Bubba.


Jerry@Ajijic

Feb 10, 2005, 8:50 PM

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Re: [Bubba] Lake Chapala

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Who other than a real NUT would bother to post a 18 month article about something he knows nothing about. Actually the poster is not a COMPLETE nut as he had enough sense not to give his real name or address.


(This post was edited by Jerry@Ajijic on Feb 10, 2005, 8:52 PM)


1ajijic


Feb 10, 2005, 9:18 PM

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Re: [Jerry@Ajijic] Lake Chapala

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The man is a fool if he thinks anyone believed the article when it was first written, much less now. What we are all wondering as the spring is springing is where will the water go if we have another abundant rainy season this year!! I guess they could open the spillways at the other end of the lake if we start to flood here in town!
http://www.newbeginningsmexico.com


bogus1

Feb 16, 2005, 12:39 PM

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Re: [1ajijic] Lake Chapala

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As someone who is considering a move to this area, I am very interested in this subject. The above is the second article I've read regarding the lake's poor condition. - Where would I go to find the truth? - I will also be visiting there mid March on my first exploritory trip. - Can anyone help me?
Thanks


VSOP

Feb 16, 2005, 12:52 PM

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Re: [bogus1] Lake Chapala

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My best advice: Go see for yourself. My second-best advice: Seach old posts by Jim Bentein on this forum. Although he took (still does) a lot of flak for his objective reporting (he's a newspaper writer in real life) and has since left the area for Mazatlan, he, I believe, gave objective black-and-white reportage and did not have a house value to protect as he was a renter. Of course, it has rained a lot since he left!


No hay rosas sin espinas . . .


1ajijic


Feb 16, 2005, 1:29 PM

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Re: [VSOP] Lake Chapala

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Again outdated material. The Bentein horror stories predated the eleven government programs to preserve the lake. The preservation of the lake has not been based on the good or bad rainy season. It is multifaceted. Those of us who live here have attended a number of meetings explaining these programs. They have also been reported in the Guadalara Reporter. They are reforesting, building five new sewer plants, giving grants to farmers to change to crops that need less irrigation and to change their irrigation practices, diverting the Guadalahara use by building another dam on another river and drawing from there, etc. etc. etc. This is a long term thing. World wide attention has ben focused on Lake Chapala by the Living Lakes project which has never lost a lake. I feel a whole lot better about this lake than I do about the US dollar!
http://www.newbeginningsmexico.com


Bubba

Feb 16, 2005, 2:29 PM

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Re: [1ajijic] Lake Chapala

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"The truth? You can't handle the truth!" I love that line.

The lake refilled as lakes will refill or drain during cyclical weather changes. This lake has been up and down as have all natural lakes on the planet on numerous occasions during the past trillion years. Man's pathetic short term recording of these cycles is to be pitied. Jim Bentein is the boy who cried wolf and was rightly criticized for myopia. I understand his dilemma. I have made it clear to all readers of this forum that George Bush is the Anti-Christ in the guise of The Crusading Avenger Here to Wipe Out the Musulman Hordes. Unlike Jim, I have made sure my time lines are such that I will be returning my left over assets to Mother Earth in the form of worm food before I am subject to ridicule.

I will tell you this with assurance. If Lake Chapala disappears and you want to observe that phenomenon, you had best be able to see through six feet of dirt.

Reverend Bubba


RickS


Feb 16, 2005, 8:08 PM

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Re: [bogus1] Lake Chapala

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Bogus1,

You're question is a very reasonable one, but sometimes the responses on Forums tend to not answer questions directly but beat around the bush. The question you have asked will always bring up heavy debate and often hysteria!

I'll give you my version, but first let me tell you that I do not live at Lakeside but have been there many times since 1997 on visits ranging from 2 weeks to 4 months. I presently have several friends who do live there and I (being retired) watch these forums religiously because I love Mexico and plan to move there (somewhere) as soon as my wife retires. I'm sure someone will take exception to some of what I say, but that is their right.


My first advice has already been given to you and that is to visit the lake, something you plan on doing in mid-March, I believe you have said. What you will see is a lake very much different than has been the case for the last 10? years or so. It's almost full of water now. To learn the history of the lake, there have been some very good articles written for Mexconnect on the subject by Tony Burton. I've listed the URLs for the articles and his Bio below. This is as about as good and unbiased info that you will find on the subject. And he is very knowledgeable.

The lake is no different than some other lakes throughout the world.... they fluxuate over time depending on nature and 'political forces'. This lake has never been a deep one and has shallow shores, so fluxuations of water levels are very pronounced. The history of this lake is that, over the years, it gets full and then it gets very low. You probably know that this area of Mexico has a rainy season and a dry season (and in the 7 month dry season it just doesn't rain at all!). Well, for many years it has been very low and getting lower every year. Until last year. Now it's almost full and the prospects look good for 2005.

Why did this happen? Nature, for one. It's been raining a lot. Government intervention for another. The lake gets its water from the Lerma River basin. Dams being built above and major agriculture use in prior years (drier years also) in the basin was taking almost all the water before it could get to Lake Chapala. Guadalajara is growing and taking more water annually also. The Government said it would force the upstream States to release more water but never did for many years. Until last year, when the dire condition of Lake Chapala garnered it world-wide attention. This pressure forced the government to force the upstream users to release more water last year as required by law. And of course it didn't hurt that in 2004 there were significant rains upstream, even major flooding many times. So Chapala began to rise and this last Fall was more full than in recent history. The hope is that, since the 2005 rainy season will start with the lake having more water than any time in recent history, the lake will get 'totally' full by the end of the year..... maybe even too full. Such is life when nature has her way.

Anyway, the Lake is probably in good shape now for the next ?? years. Then the weather will get dry again or some other force will come along and it will probably loose some of its volume. But that has been going on for the last century at least. Yes, there were some MAJOR differences of opinion about whether the lake was doomed to go bone dry. One fellow, Jim Bentien a Canadian, was, in my opinion, non-relenting and almost rabid in his proclamations about the doomed lake and that how everyone who had bought property there (he didn't) was a fool. Others saw it as a problem but not the end of life there. But even when it was half full, the lake was still beautiful and added aesthetic and thermal benefits to the area (cooler in summer, warmer in winter than Guadalajara).

One other non-related thing about the lake.... we in the U.S. normally USE lakes... for boating, swimming, fishing, skiing, etc. Lake Chapala (and many other Mexican lakes) is not generally going to be used as much (by other than the Mexicans) as it is going to be admired. Game fishing as we know it is non-existent; swimming is not a good idea due to (agricultural) pollutants which make that not a great idea according to most. Maybe pleasure boating will make a come-back since the lake depth has increased considerably, but that hasn't been happening for several years by anyone other than a few Mexicans on weekends.

Hope this helps. Enjoy your trip down in March. It is quite lovely (and remember, you'll be going there well into the dry season; it will still be beautiful in town but the mountains will be browner than normal).

Rick in Colorado



Tony Burton's Articles on the health of Lake Chapala
http://www.mexconnected.com/mex_/travel/tonysarticles/tblagunasaved.html

Tony Burton's Bio
http://www.mexconnected.com/mex_/travel/tonysarticles/tbbio.html


(This post was edited by RickS on Feb 16, 2005, 8:14 PM)


Jerry@Ajijic

Feb 17, 2005, 6:33 AM

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Re: [RickS] Lake Chapala

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RickS, your article was nice but according to many the three reasons the lake got so low were, 1. the dams built upriver, 2. the greatly increased use of water upriver for irrigation and third (and not as important) lack of rain. As for the government forcing the dams to release water. I do not think the government did that. They told them to release water but the farmers objected and the water was not released until we had a very heavy rainy season. There was then too much water for the farmers and their dams so they released water.


Bubba

Feb 17, 2005, 7:28 AM

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Re: [RickS] Lake Chapala

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Just a couple of thoughts to add to Rick's and Jerry's.

I believe the reason that such a large volume of water was released from upstream reservoirs during the past two rainy seaons was because of flooding conditions and in anticipation of those conditions worsening. Even today, if you read the Guadalajara papers you will see that some reservoirs on the Lerma are still at or in excess of capacity. This idea that international attention on the plight of the lake caused the CNA to relent and release more water seems to me to be way overblown. Can anyone out there cite even one positive contribution of Living Lakes and Amigos del Lago that improved the condition of the lake incrementally over and above what would have occurred through independent actions by the CNA and by nature's abundant rainfall?

In my opinion, there is no way that the powerful agricultural interests upstream will not prevail as before when water rationing inevitably returns with dry weather cycles and that's how it should be. The Lerma basin is one of Mexico's most productive agricultural regions. When water once again becomes scarce it must be allocated primarily to food production. Let's just hope that improved irrigation techniques can lessen waste. The Mexicans have a long way to go before they will reach the obscene level of waste seen in the Colorado Basin in the U.S. where golf courses and luxury landscaping soak up water vital to the region.

I have only been here four years so don't pretend to have much experience in this matter. My gardener, who is almost 70 and has lived in Ajijic most of his life, tells me that these are natural recurring cycles. He used to go fishing for carp on my neighbor's seawall and when I got here in 2001 I could walk a good 1/2 mile from that seawall to the lake's edge. The lake was no prettier or uglier then - just smaller and the beach was beautiful and teeming with livestock and truck farms. One could walk along paths from La Floresta to San Juan Cosala and the walk was delightful. Now you go down to the lake's edge, normally covered with a carpet of lirio, and the water is rancid and stinks of stagnation.

In the 1940s, a local author was lamenting the certain demise of Lake Sayula which he predicted would destroy the area around that town. Well the lake is basically gone and the area is a prosperous and thriving agricultural community. So much for chicken little.


1ajijic


Feb 17, 2005, 7:37 AM

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Re: [RickS] Lake Chapala

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Well said , Rick. That about covers it. The government has cleared the lake for swimming and there is a new agreement which requires the dams to release water once they reach their functional capacity. In the past many were 125% of capacity - a very dangerous situation for nearby residents. As you stated, last year I believe 50,000 people were flooded out upstream, which actually goes as far as Mexico City.
http://www.newbeginningsmexico.com


NEOhio

Feb 17, 2005, 8:47 AM

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Re: [1ajijic] Lake Chapala

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For those who need a little visual assist in understanding the difference between the past and last year the web site by 1Ajijic, www.newbeginningsmexico.com has photos comparing the recent rainy year effect on the lake.

At the web site go to "News from Ajijic" and click on "Lake - 2004" there the pix are side-by-side. Quite a transformation.

If you are new to exploring the area, even if you are not new, this web site is comprehensive, updated regularly and always a fun read.

Much thanks to the webwoman!


Bubba

Feb 17, 2005, 4:16 PM

Post #16 of 22 (2467 views)

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Re: [1ajijic] Lake Chapala

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1Ajijic:

You'd have to be out of your mind to swim in that cesspool or eat any creature raised in its depths. But let's remember that the government also cleared Guadalajarans to drink from that filthy sump. The folks upstream are releasing all that water to save their own butts from disaster because of excessive rainfall. It had absolutely nothing to do with brotherly love or compromise. The powerful farmers in Guanajuato and elsewhere in the basin will stop any water transference that does not suit their interests. Ain't no German multi-national corporate write-off scam nor group of local tree hugger retirees gonna change that.

By the way, the lake is not filling with water so much as water mixed generously with massive amounts of detritus from upstream.

You know, I walk the lake beaches a lot and there is still plenty of beach to walk if you look for it. If I were searching for expat sympathizers out and about observing their prized lake I would be a lonely man indeed.


sandykayak


Feb 18, 2005, 10:21 AM

Post #17 of 22 (2372 views)

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Re: [bogus1] Lake Chapala

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about 18 months ago there was discussion on this forum about what would happen if/when Lake Chapala dried up.

the sentiments of several folk were that lake or no lake it's STILL a nice place to live.

And there's no lake in SMA but it's a popular retirement place.
Sandy Kramer
Miami, Fla & El Parque


Chumley

Feb 19, 2005, 5:46 AM

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Re: [sandykayak] Lake Chapala

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I beg to differ, but there is a lake in San Miguel, or more correctly, near San Miguel Viejo. It's called the Presa.


Bubba

Feb 19, 2005, 8:55 AM

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Re: [sandykayak] Lake Chapala

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There is indeed a smallish manmade reservoir known as Presa Begonias (or Begonias Reservoir) close to San Miguel de Allende which probably has a very small impact on the climate thereabouts. It would have fit in an insignificant corner of Lake Chapala even when Lake Chapala was at 25% of capacity. San Miguel, which was founded in 1542, is attracting expats because it is a charming colonial city. At 1870 meters, its climate is more harsh than that of the Chapala area and that would no doubt still be the case if Lake Chapala disappeared.

Think of the climate in Guadalajara which is about the same altitute as Chapala and forget the air pollution which is not the issue. Yes it does get a little hotter and colder in Guadalajara than at lakeside which means that they still have a nearly perfect climate which most people in the United States, outside of parts of California, would kill for.

Also remember this. When and if Lake Chapala ever dries up, others will be living in our houses, we'll be in the great beyond and not caring a whit about Lake Chapala, rather we will be at another lake worrying about the next time the Devil is coming by in his speedboat.


(This post was edited by Bubba on Feb 19, 2005, 9:04 AM)


Chumley

Feb 20, 2005, 5:38 AM

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Re: [Bubba] Lake Chapala

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Perhaps the Presa Allende is not as big full as Lake Chapala was at 25% of capacity, but with the Reverend Bubba's professed ability to walk on water, it would be at least a half hour hike to cross it on foot.


sandykayak


Feb 20, 2005, 9:35 AM

Post #21 of 22 (2163 views)

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Re: [Chumley] Lake Chapala

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Yes, I know about the Presa and even kayaked there in June '03. It's quite eerie because a village was flooded and we paddled partway into the church steeple.

However, I didn't mention it because people don't buy property in San Miguel because they have a nice view of the presa about 15 minutes away!!!

And I wonder what percent of the expat population spends much time gazing at the reservoir.

i was trying to compare apples with apples.
Sandy Kramer
Miami, Fla & El Parque


Bubba

Feb 20, 2005, 11:04 AM

Post #22 of 22 (2143 views)

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Re: [Chumley] Lake Chapala

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Well, thank you Chumley but why should I expend the energy to cross the reservoir on foot when I can simply have Dad part the waters.
 
 
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