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tashby

Jun 16, 2011, 7:42 AM

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A MONTH in Mexico City!

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I'll be spending the entire month of July in el D.F. Renting an apartment in La Condesa. Interested in hearing suggestions on things to do....neighborhoods worth exploring, day-trips (or even overnight trips), etc.

What would you do with a month in the capital?

La Isla

Jun 16, 2011, 9:41 AM

Post #2 of 61 (7630 views)

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Re: [tashby] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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I'd love to give you some ideas about how to spend your month in my adopted city, but before I waste your time with the obvious (the Anthropology Museum, the Centro Histórico, the Bazar del Sábado in San Angel), it would be helpful to know if you've been here before and what sorts of activities interest you.

tashby

Jun 16, 2011, 11:20 AM

Post #3 of 61 (7605 views)

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Re: [La Isla] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Sorry La Isla, of course I should have provided more info. Yes, have been there before (twice) but only for very short trips. Never with the luxury of an entire month. During my month there, a friend will be visiting and she has never been, so I'm sure we'll do our share of the major sites (re-visiting mostly, in my case. There are still some of the biggies I haven't seen though....the inside of the National Palace being a glaring example).

For background, I live in Ajijic, which if you've never visited is a backwater cowtown. So I'm looking for urban experiences that can only be had in the capital, essentially anything that is the opposite of Ajijic. Urban art, funky neighborhoods, maybe a great street-food tour. La Lagunilla. Different neighborhoods that are interesting to explore on foot. Other interests include architecture and design, watering-holes and restaurants that ooze history, a spectacular bookstore would be great. I want to see things that surprise me. Any places that are "quintessentially" Mexico City, or have an interesting "scene" go to the top of the list.

I don't know if any of this is making any sense. Hope so.

Also, any great day trip, or overnight trip ideas are welcome. I guess Cuernavaca? Not much interested in Teotihuacan, frankly. I'm ruined on ruins. Maybe Xochimilco, but probably not on a weeked...

La Isla

Jun 16, 2011, 7:19 PM

Post #4 of 61 (7554 views)

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Re: [tashby] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Thanks for giving me a better idea of what you and your friend many want to see here. I'll give it some thought and get back to you soon.

A couple of comments for now. I would skip Xochimilco unless you have a bunch of friends in Mexico City that would want to join you there. If there will only be two of you, sitting in a trajinera for a couple of hours trolling along the canals could get boring rather quickly! And it's quite a long trip to get there from your hotel in Condesa. Lucky you to be staying in an area of the city with two of its nicest parks, Parque México and Parque España!

Here's an additional comment about Xochimilco. While I would skip the canals, I do recommend that you visit the wonderful Dolores Olmedo Museum located in Xochimilco, but not in the touristy canal area. Here's the link to the official website:

http://www.museodoloresolmedo.org.mx/

(This post was edited by Rolly on Jun 16, 2011, 8:16 PM)

tashby

Jun 16, 2011, 8:17 PM

Post #5 of 61 (7533 views)

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Re: [La Isla] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Quote

I would skip Xochimilco unless you have a bunch of friends in Mexico City that would want to join you there.

As I think about it, that is truly insightful and great advice. Would definitely be best experienced with a group, and then.....on a weekend!

Mostly I guess what I'm looking for are places to poke around, hang out, and to try to scratch a teeny tiny bit under the visitor surface. I don't need much to keep me interested. I enjoy people-watching.

I can find museums and sites in guidebooks.

Thanks!

(This post was edited by tashby on Jun 16, 2011, 8:20 PM)

La Isla

Jun 16, 2011, 9:30 PM

Post #6 of 61 (7515 views)

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Re: [tashby] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Quote

Mostly I guess what I'm looking for are places to poke around, hang out, and to try to scratch a teeny tiny bit under the visitor surface. I don't need much to keep me interested. I enjoy people-watching.

If people watching is your thing, the two parks I mentioned in my previous post are a good place to start though the people and their pets you will see will be mostly middle class. For more variety, you could try calle Gante in the Centro Histórico, which is a pedestrian mall with several outdoor cafés for your viewing pleasure.

Anonimo

Jun 16, 2011, 11:03 PM

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Re: [tashby] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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I'd first be making a list of unmissable restaurants.

We plan to return to El Racó, a Catalán restaurant across from the northern end of Parque México, at the end of August.

El Cardenal, the original in Centro, is worth a visit.
El Bajío, the original, in Colonia Obrera Popular, a don't miss.

Visit the San Juan Mercado area, south of the Alameda, west of Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas, east of Avenida Balderas. Street food along Calle Ayuntamiento and south on López towards Arcos de Belén. (I admit I haven’t tried many of those places.)
Pulquería Las Duelistas, on Calle Aranda, just off Ayutamiento. Worth a stop just for the prehispanic, hallucinogenic decor.

More people watching: Avenida Álvaro Obregón in Colonia Roma. The Plazas Luis Cabrera, 3 bocks south of Álvaro, on Calle Orizaba. Plaza Río de Janeiro, north on Orizaba, with its Casa de Bruja (Rosemary’s Baby, perhaps?)

Several bookstores along Av. Álvaro Obregón, mostly on the south side. Pegaso, El Ático, etc.

There's a Sat-Sun tianguis on the parklike divider strip of the same street, with collectables, books, etc.

Saludos,
Anonimo

La Isla

Jun 17, 2011, 1:02 PM

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Re: [Anonimo] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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The flea market on Alvaro Obregon on Sunday is lots of fun, with the usual flea market stuff, including some almost-antiques. I went there recently with a neighbor, and he bought an old metal meat grinder, the kind my grandmother would have used, that actually worked! I found a cute straw sun hat, which I had been told was made in Mexico, but when I got home and examined the label carefully, I found out it was, of course, made in China. No matter - it's really cute and is coming in handy with the extended hot season we're been suffering (and sweating) the last 3 months. There is also a section set aside for young artists, who sell their work for reasonable prices, and you get to chat with them about their art. If you're interested in affordable art (and frames), you can also check out the large art fair held every Sunday at the Jardín del Arte in Colonia Cuauhtémoc near the border with colonia San Rafael between Villalongín and James Sullivan streets.

tashby

Jun 17, 2011, 2:22 PM

Post #9 of 61 (7442 views)

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Re: [La Isla] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Thank you Anonimo and La Isla! I don't have time to reply in detail right now, but want you to know how much I appreciate this info. Especially appreciate the super-specifics of it all. More later.

Cheers!

rockydog85251

Jun 18, 2011, 6:42 AM

Post #10 of 61 (7388 views)

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Re: [tashby] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Was pretty sure I had posted something about this earlier but can't locate it, sooooo:

La Isla can probably give you the name or you can find it online, but try to find the oldest, continously operating restaurant in DF....we stumbled across it & ate dinner there about 12 yrs ago.....I remember it as being loud, dark & VERY interesting.
We also enjoyed Cafe Tacuba, which we also stumbled into & a "personage" came with her entourage & gave an inpromptu performance that all the Mexicans went crazy over. Never did find out who it was.........but fun!
Have a great time!!
Willie

La Isla

Jun 18, 2011, 10:32 AM

Post #11 of 61 (7350 views)

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Re: [rockydog85251] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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I can't help you with the name of the oldest continuously-operating eatery in the D.F. though it sounds like it might be fun to visit.

Never been to Cafe Tacuba since I've been told by those in the know that the food is rather pricey and not that great. Apparently, people go there for the ambiente and the fame of the place rather than for the cuisine, and, apparently, on the off-chance that someone famous will show and entertain, as happened to rockydog.

(This post was edited by La Isla on Jun 18, 2011, 10:35 AM)

esperanza

Jun 18, 2011, 10:44 AM

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Re: [La Isla] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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La Isla, the last time I ate at Café Tacuba, the food was outstanding--really outstanding. Not only that, the portions were huge, much more than a person would actually want to finish at one sitting. I had heard what you had heard, so I ordered a pechuga con mole and crossed my fingers, expecting a standard-issue semi-okay meal. Wow, was I surprised by how delicious it was. The prices were definitely more than you'd pay for comida corrida at a fonda, but not exorbitant for what we were served. I was amazed.

We were last there for comida, but I've also been for breakfast. Café Tacuba's Sunday breakfast is about as much fun as you can have sitting down. The pan dulce (made on the premises), the hot chocolate, the menu of great breakfast selections, and the estudiantina (musicians in medieval dress) combine to give the crowds their money's worth. I'd go again anytime.

http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com

rockydog85251

Jun 18, 2011, 10:45 AM

Post #13 of 61 (7338 views)

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Re: [La Isla] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Found it!!! Here is a link that also provides a map.....you can google it for more info:

http://www.gayot.com/...xico_65mx080228.html
Willie

esperanza

Jun 18, 2011, 10:48 AM

Post #14 of 61 (7334 views)

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Re: [rockydog85251] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Several years ago, friends invited me to Hostería Santo Domingo for comida. I loved the ambiance, but I thought the food was awful. YMMV.

http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com

La Isla

Jun 18, 2011, 10:52 AM

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Re: [esperanza] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Thanks for the glowing review, esperanza. I guess I'll give the Cafe a try the next time I find myself in the Centro Histórico and want something more exciting than a comida corrida.

Vichil

Jun 18, 2011, 11:35 AM

Post #16 of 61 (7317 views)

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Re: [La Isla] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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I usually stay in Centro a few blocks from Cafe Tacuba and have eaten there quite a few time.The food has been always nice and the atmosphere great.

Has anyone tried Biko in Polanco or Tezka? That is on my list for my next trip.

(This post was edited by Vichil on Jun 25, 2011, 10:58 AM)

esperanza

Jun 18, 2011, 12:28 PM

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Re: [Vichil] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Haven't yet been to Biko or Tezka.

I have been to Restaurante D.O. and thought it was just okay and not as good as the hype, in spite of its super-famous chef. I love JASO, at Newton 88 in Polanco (caveat: the owners are friends of mine, but even so, it's a big wow).

Next up on my list of gotta-try-its will be Enrique Olvera's Pujol and Daniel Ovadia's Paxia.

http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com

Anonimo

Jun 18, 2011, 12:53 PM

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Re: [esperanza] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Several years ago, friends invited me to Hostería Santo Domingo for comida. I loved the ambiance, but I thought the food was awful. YMMV.

We went there for the famed chile en nogada.
It gave me a permanent dislike for that dish.

Saludos,
Anonimo

tashby

Jun 19, 2011, 9:42 AM

Post #19 of 61 (7234 views)

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Re: [Anonimo] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Hey! How did this turn into a restaurant thread? Hahaha.

I appreciate all the tips and recommendations, and have copied them into my trip file. Will definitely be going back to the weekend market in Roma on Obregón, which we just stumbled into last year by shear luck. Besides the parks, and calle Gante in Centro that La Isla mentioned, are there any other pedestrian-only (or at least pedestrian-oriented) areas where people congregate for fun? I've been to San Angél for B. Sabado. Thanks again!

Vichil

Jun 19, 2011, 10:14 AM

Post #20 of 61 (7225 views)

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Re: [tashby] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Go riding a bike on Sunday morning along with the other thousands of people....

La Isla

Jun 19, 2011, 11:33 AM

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Re: [Vichil] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Go riding a bike on Sunday morning along with the other thousands of people....

That would be hard to do unless tashby and her friend bring their bikes with them. I don't believe the ECoBici option is available for tourists. But you could come to Reforma in the area between the Monumento a Cuauhtemoc and the entrance to Chapultepec park to watch the people on bikes and skates and their own two feet enjoying a car-free avenue.

tashby

Jun 19, 2011, 1:00 PM

Post #22 of 61 (7199 views)

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Re: [La Isla] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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So Reforma is closed to vehicular traffic on Sundays all the way between Cuauhtémoc Circle and Paque Chapultepec? Wow.

Another question. I'm going to have blissfully easy access to the Metrobus on Insurgentes Sur, and from that, access to the Metro itself. But what's the easiest way to get from one end of Reforma to the other, say from Alameda to Chapultepec? I'm sure there are busses, but how are they marked? Or alternatively, what approximately would a taxi cost between Alameda and Chapultepec.....around $80 pesos?

(This post was edited by tashby on Jun 19, 2011, 1:01 PM)

La Isla

Jun 19, 2011, 1:08 PM

Post #23 of 61 (7195 views)

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Re: [tashby] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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To get from near the Alameda to Chapultepec Park, you can take a bus across Reforma from the Hidalgo Metro station. All the buses that pick up passengers at that stop go down Reforma and into (and usually through) the park. To be sure, take one that says Auditorio. It will cost 4.5 or 5 pesos, and you will need exact change. Depending on how much traffic there is, a taxi should be between 25 to 40 pesos. All taxis these days have working meters, so you don't need to worry about being overcharged.

tashby

Jun 19, 2011, 2:00 PM

Post #24 of 61 (7178 views)

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Re: [La Isla] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Thank you! Good to know that many of the busses going up and down Reforma do just that and don't veer off into different directions so much. My feet are already tired just thinking of all the walking I'm going to be doing, so I'll definitely be learning the ropes of public transport options.

La Isla

Jun 19, 2011, 2:06 PM

Post #25 of 61 (7171 views)

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Re: [tashby] A MONTH in Mexico City!

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Another piece of advice, bring a good pair of comfortable walking shoes, but you probably knew that already!

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