Bennie García
Feb 24, 2011, 9:13 PM
Post #5 of 12
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Re: [Moisheh] Electrical chases in masonry explained
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No, I did not describe it as stupid. I stated that it is stupid! I doubt you could buy that tool in Sonora. They use a small grinder with a masonry blade. The end result is a crappy conduit that is too close to the exterior ( or interior ) of a wall with no protection from a drill bit that mat be used later to mount something to that wall. Just try to get that past an inspector NOB. Wont happen.
Oh my! It keeps getting better and more amusing with each post!
Yes they use a small angle grinder or maybe even a big grinder. Does the job a lot faster than a 2lb sledge and a stone chisel. The difference between a wall chaser and the grinders is basically the thickness of the kerf it cuts. So what you have to make several passes with the thinner kerf blade on the grinder. A wall chaser is an expensive tool costing 10 to 20 times the cost of a small grinder.
Now lets talk about the shallow depth you are whining about. The fact is that the chases cut into a masonry wall weaken it. Something that must be dealt with, it is just part of the whole equation. But the deeper the chase, the weaker the wall. So it is obvious to anyone with normal intelligence (and something NOB building inspectors know ) to see that the shallower the chase, the better. Very simple. Unless of course you are more concerned with hanging pictures than the integrity of the structure. It's your house pal.
The next piece of absurdity is where you mention the risk of drilling into the wiring when you want to sink a fastener in the wall due to the shallow depth of the chase. In the first place, for a person of normal intelligence let alone an expert builder, it isn't difficult to figure out where you are most likely to encounter embedded "orange crap".
Secondly, there are times when you need a short and skinny plastic anchor that requires a shallow hole with a 3/16" masonry bit and there are times when you may need to sink a 1/2" or larger by 5" expansion bolt using a 3/4" bit and many other instances with fasteners that fall between those two sizes. So it doesn't matter how close to the surface your conduit is embedded. And for anyone that has ever hit "orange crap" with a hammer drill knows there is a distinct difference you can feel when your bit hits the "orange crap". The bit will "bounce" before it has a chance to penetrate and serves as a warning to stop drilling.
We drill and drive thousands of 3" x 12 wood screws to anchor kitchen cabinets, door jambs, closets, heavy wood valances, vanities etc and don't have a bit of a problem.
(This post was edited by Bennie García on Feb 24, 2011, 9:19 PM)
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