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sioux4noff

Nov 15, 2009, 9:43 AM

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A week in Guadalajara

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My husband and I live near Puerto Vallarta and will be going to Guadalajara for a week in early December.
One place we'd like to go is the Christmas Market. Can someone tell me where it is?
We'll be going to Tonala for the market one day, and probably to the zoo.
Any other suggestions of things in or near GDL to see or do.
We may take a day trip to Ajijic to visit some friends, too.
Thanks in advance for any help.

esperanza

Nov 15, 2009, 7:08 PM

Post #2 of 15 (6802 views)

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Re: [sioux4noff] A week in Guadalajara

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The tianguis navideño where I have always gone is on Av. Alcalde, north of the Cathedral approximately 4 blocks. It's in the little square in front of Templo San José.

If you haven't been to the Hospicio Cabañas at the end of the last plaza behind the Cathedral, it's a must-see. José Clemente Orozco's most famous and intensely wonderful murals, including Hombre en Llamas, are there. If you visit the murals, it's well worth the money to hire a guide to talk to you about them. Seeing these murals with an educated eye makes the experience 100% more rewarding. The guides, some of whom are English/Spanish bilingual, are very inexpensive.

If you haven't seen the Templo Expiatorio, I highly recommend it. It's on Av. Enrique Díaz de León near Av. Vallarta. Don't miss the mosaics on the facade, the doors, the glorious stained glass, and the walkway behind the church altar. If you happen to be in Guadalajara on a Sunday late in the afternoon, the city government sponsors free danzón classes in plaza in front of the church. Whether you are a spectator or join in the dance, it's an unforgettable experience.

Just to the right of the Templo Expiatorio (as you face the church), there is a branch of the famous panadería Croissants Alfredo. The chocolate croissants are unbelievable--they freeze very well, too.

The Feria Internacional del Libro in Guadalajara (the second-largest book fair in the world) opens on November 28 and runs through December 6. It's located at the Centro de Exposiciones on Av. Mariano Otero. If you want a real treat, stop in. You'll want to spend a morning, a day, or an entire week there. So so so many books--if you haven't been there, you can't imagine how wonderful it is. Some of the book stalls are larger than...well...larger than my entire house and your house combined!

Restaurants:
Karne Garibaldi, at the corner of Calle Garibaldi and Calle José Clemente Orozco. One-item menu: carne en su jugo and the best frijolitos refritos on the planet. Restaurant holds the Guinness Book of World Records record for world's fastest service.
La Matera, Av. México #2891, at the corner of Calle Nelson. Argentine, with beef cuts that are out of this world.
Ma Come No, Av. Américas #302. Italian and terrific. Don't miss the highly unusual salad bar.

Off the beaten path fun:
Tianguis Artístico en la Glorieta Chapalita, Av. de las Rosas, Colonia Chapalita. This artists' tianguis sets up every Sunday in the Glorieta Chapalita, a beautiful tree-filled park. It's great fun.
El Trocadero, a small antiques tianguis, sets up every Sunday on Av. México just west of Av. Chapultepec. It's easy to enjoy both the Chapalita artists' tianguis and El Trocadero on the same Sunday, El Trocadero in the morning and Chapalita in the early afternoon.

PM me; I'll be in Guadalajara for the FIL.

http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com

gsherwin

Nov 16, 2009, 8:11 AM

Post #3 of 15 (6766 views)

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Re: [esperanza] A week in Guadalajara

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In addition to Esperanza’s most excellent suggestions: A trip to Parque Agua Azul (entrance on Independencia about a mile south of Plaza Tapatia) is a bargain at about 45 cents US. Even if it is only for a quick bite to eat rather than a shopping spree, Mercado Libertad is well worth some time. Of course I can spend an entire afternoon just people watching in the plazas surrounding the main cathedral. A show at Teatro Degollado is also always a treat. I hope you enjoy your visit.
Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.
Sea usted mismo, los demás ya está tomada.
Oscar Wilde

Georgia

Nov 19, 2009, 10:34 AM

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Re: [sioux4noff] A week in Guadalajara

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If you're going to the zoo, go next door too: Selva Magica has an area where you can swim with dolphins. My kids and grandkids, and I, all love it. You get a ride on the dolphins, too. They are really quite good fellows - magical. You get a video of your experience as well. Ask at the hotel where you are staying to make reservations for you.

Also, don't miss Tlaquepaque. Among the finest restaurants and greater Guadalajara is a fairly new one: Nahual, on Juarez, just east of the Parian. (Everyone in Tlaquepaque knows where the Parian is, and there are maps of the town at most shops.) They have a very complete menu of excellent and sometimes elegant Mexican cuisine. If you go to Tlaquepaque the Museum of Ceramics is there and is an excellent introduction to all types of Mexican pottery styles. There is also the shop and gallery of Bustamante which is surreal and a must-see, as well as all kinds of shops, street vendors, and stalls. Calle Independencia is a walking mall street: no cars, so you can just meander at will and not worry about crazed taxi drivers and pizza delivery boys on motorcycles. Friday nights in Tlaquepaque is "noche de ronda" and there is free entertainment starting about 7 in the park by the churches. Shops stay open later on Friday nights, too.

If you're there on a Sunday, some days in December the Ballet Folklorico of the University of Guadalajara is performing at the teatro Degollado. Check it out at www.ticketmaster.com.mx to see what's going on there. Also on Sundays at noon right across from Parque Agua Azul is the Lienzo de Charros. Good charreadas at 30 pesos a head. Wear jeans.

sioux4noff

Nov 20, 2009, 10:02 PM

Post #5 of 15 (6619 views)

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Re: [Georgia] A week in Guadalajara

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Thank you all for the nice suggestions.

sioux4noff

Dec 5, 2009, 8:24 PM

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Re: [esperanza] A week in Guadalajara

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Today we wandered around near the Cathedral, went to the (huge) Christmas market, and stopped in at the Centro Technologico (I probably got that name wrong) to get a cell phone unblocked. My gosh, what an enormous market for cell phones, accessories, computer and cell phone repair, sales of comuters, Ipods and other electronic!
We did a good amount of people watching. On the way back to the hotel, in a cab because we could not figure out where the bus stop we needed was, we saw some typpe of market in the median of Av Chapultepec. It looked interesting, but I was beat so we skipped it. Dinner at Karne Garibaldi across form Plaza del Sol.

sioux4noff

Dec 6, 2009, 4:46 PM

Post #7 of 15 (6376 views)

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Re: [sioux4noff] A week in Guadalajara

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Today's vacation report. We went for a drive, and were stymied a bit by the Via Recreativa street closings. We went to the Trocadera tianguis that Esperanza mentioned. Very different and fun. We boutght a few things. Then we drove around some more, and ate breakfast at Casa de Pancakes on Av. Mexico. It was very good and filling. Probably we'll only have a light dinner.
We explored around the Providencia area - wow, what homes! Shopped at Waldo's - we don't have on in Vallarta.
I forgot to mention yesterday we ate lunch at La Gorda, it was good and inexpensive. Stopped at Croissants Alfredo but too late for the chocolate ones. Manana.

sioux4noff

Dec 7, 2009, 9:12 PM

Post #8 of 15 (6326 views)

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Re: [sioux4noff] A week in Guadalajara

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Report for today:
We stopped by Croissants Alfredo and got some chocolate ones. My husband, Harold, says they are very good, I'm saving mine for breakfast.
We ate lunch at a place called Blender.The address is La Paz 2183-b, near Union.
We saw their sign that said "best bagels in Guadalajara" so we had sandwiches on bagels. It was a nice light lunch, we sat outdoors.
Then the search for stained glass supplies. A friend of ours from Vallarta does stained glass work as a hobby. She wanted some glass and supplies. Sean, from the Guadalajara Reporter, told us of a place on Union called "Vitrales" It is just south of Av Vallarta. It is a gallery of stained glass art.
The owner of the business, Ricardo Montono, was very helpful (and speaks 4 languages). He explained to us how to get to the place he buys glass. Luckily he gave us the phone # too as we couldn't find it. I called and got directions, twice, and found a large bodega of many colors and types of glass. It is called Carlo Importations http://www.carloimp.com
For dinner we went to El Gordo Steak, on the recommendation of a Vallarta friend. Very good food, good service and a really cute place. It's located at Avenida Terranova 1244, between calles Milan y Florencia.

Manuel Dexterity

Dec 8, 2009, 6:09 AM

Post #9 of 15 (6312 views)

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Re: [sioux4noff] A week in Guadalajara

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In Reply To

For dinner we went to El Gordo Steak, on the recommendation of a Vallarta friend. Very good food, good service and a really cute place. It's located at Avenida Terranova 1244, between calles Milan y Florencia.

There is a good place directly across the street called Sabora that serves Argentina style pepitos, steak sandwiches. The salads are very good also. I have been told it is owned by the people who have La Matera.

sioux4noff

Dec 8, 2009, 7:12 AM

Post #10 of 15 (6303 views)

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Re: [Manuel Dexterity] A week in Guadalajara

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I remember seeing that place. Maybe we'll give it a try.

esperanza

Dec 8, 2009, 9:58 AM

Post #11 of 15 (6281 views)

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Re: [sioux4noff] A week in Guadalajara

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Don't miss the Templo Expiatorio! It's very near downtown, on Enrique Díaz de León near the corner of Av. Vallarta. After you see the church, go across Calle López Cotilla to the rectoría (now-gallery of the Universidad de Guadalajara) and visit the Paraninfo (the round auditorium) where you will see glorious José Clemente Orozco murals and a fabulous painted cúpola. It may be that there is a worthwhile exhibit in the gallery portion. They have a lovely gift shop as well.

http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com

wendy devlin

Dec 8, 2009, 3:26 PM

Post #12 of 15 (6260 views)

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Re: [esperanza] A week in Guadalajara

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Over the last ten years, have often stayed in a motel, in the colonia where Templo Expiatorio is located. Gothic architecture is not everyone's cup of tea but I enjoy watching the figures in the Templo's clock mark the hour, while sitting in the plaza's cafe, doing a whole lot of nothing.

Everytime I visit(without own car) walk slightly downhill to El Centro and meander the Plazas.
Return via bus(watch out for Kamikazee drivers!) or taxi. Numerous quality restaurants in area.
Meet old friends. Meet a few new ones each visit.

Guess, it's my Guadalajara:) Or at least, the most familiar part.

sioux4noff

Dec 8, 2009, 8:05 PM

Post #13 of 15 (6240 views)

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Re: [sioux4noff] A week in Guadalajara

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Today's report
We took the double decker Tapatio Tour. They were running 2 routes, one Guadalajara, and one Tlaquepaque. The tour was fun, even though you frequently couldn't figure out where the place was that the narrative was describing. the weather was nice and we enjoyed riding around.
Unfortunately, my husband misplaced his wallet, he thinks he dropped it on the first bus when he took his cap out of his pocket. We are almost 100% sure he was not pick-pocketed. But it does put a damper on the trip. We left our phone numbers with the tour company, who said they had checked the bus thoroughly and not found it. A bummer, but not the end of the world.
We met some friends for dinner and went to Hacienda Canelo's, across from Plaza del Sol on Lopez Mateos. It was fun and a nice place. 2 had steaks, one had fajitas and one had borrego. All were good.

sioux4noff

Dec 9, 2009, 8:43 PM

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Re: [sioux4noff] A week in Guadalajara

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Today we spent the day at the zoo. The weather was fantastic. We ate lunch at the snack bar in the back of the zoo with a great view of the canyon.
After some more driving/exploring we returned to our hotel. We nixed going out for dinner where we had planned, and had Italian take-out from a place at Plaza del Sol.
Tomorrow, off to Tonala.

sioux4noff

Dec 12, 2009, 8:55 PM

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Re: [sioux4noff] A week in Guadalajara

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The last day-
We braved the tianguis of Tonala! For anyone who has een there before, you know what I mean. For those who haven't - it's like tiaanguis on steroids.
We bought decor for the house, some macetas and a few other things.
Back to the hotel after a Chinese lunch at a place across from Plaza del Sol.
After a nap, we went to visit somw friends from San Jose del Valle Nayarit who are in Guadalajara for a while. We really enjoyed our visit with them, I miss them a lot. We went for tacos at a place in the Tabachines area of Zapopan where they live.
Friday morning, breakfast at Sanborn's - it was so-so. We made a stop at Croissants Alfredo and then headed home.
Thanks to everyone who made recommendations - we'll hit more next time.