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Oscar2

Oct 2, 2009, 11:30 AM

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Morelia and more!!

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Ahh-Morelia, one knows its there and the draw is, it’s talked about but what I hear is mostly it’s not an expat haven nor does it carry enclave features likened by the Norte Americanos. But one thing I do keep hearing is its authentic Mexican charm rooted and remaining true to its tradition. To me, this smacks with appeal.

As of late, I’ve been calling a number of hotel’s mainly in or within walking distance of El Centro Histórico. Never been to Morelia and although I searched MC and found a very nice list of about 30 or more hotels provided by Jen, it would be nice to know just where abouts would be the best location to rent, especially if we don’t want to drive all over the place for the first 10 days of our visit. We’d like to situate ourselves within a very short walking distance of the action, shopping, night life, restaurants, and Centro Histórico where the “locals” enjoy their favorite restaurants and more. Would this be considered a good idea?

As much as we’d like to be centered within short walking distance of what is popular in town, if it were you, would the noise or any other factor leave for you to want something a bit different? One thing about Morelia, its been my experience over the years, that one doesn’t hear enough about it except for a few bits and pieces here on and there, and every now and then on MC. Its mystique is also its appeal.

I’m listing some of the hotels with addresses which will hopefully bring about someone’s input about favorite location, not so favored locations and perhaps a few restaurants near those locations. Honestly, we really enjoy asking, which is the most popular restaurant most of the locals like to eat, particular to certain areas. This has worked well for us in many instances in the past. If it were possible to find something reasonable and very close-by with a small kitchenette, this would be very nice!

http://www.michoacan-travel.com/eng_mor_hoteles.htm

We’ll be looking for Salsa lessons, dining, dancing and cocktails while touring and sucking up the atmosphere good ol’Mexico provides. Patzcuaro is also a must and needing the kind of attention memories beg for. Accommodations, and same as above, would hit the spot.

We’ll rent a car and take care of some business for a few days in GDL, then take a bus to Morelia, cab to El Centro and to our accommodations. When necessary we’ll rent a car there whenever needed or just take cabs. We are really excited and its about time this is happening for us …….. Gracias!!

(This post was edited by Oscar2 on Oct 2, 2009, 11:35 AM)

TigerTonio

Oct 2, 2009, 1:37 PM

Post #2 of 35 (6701 views)

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Re: [Oscar2] Morelia and more!!

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Morelia's mystique is what originally attracted my partner and myself to purchase a home in Morelia three years ago. And although we've recently moved to the DF, I can still say its Morelia's mystique that I will always love. As a city, it's not too big, it's not too small. I can almost say there are two Morelias -- one is the colonial center, which looks unassuming until you actually go inside some of the stores, restaurants and hotels. The other Morelia is very modern and much like any other city in the states. It can be noisy and crowded at times, but once you know what to do and where to go, you can learn to avoid certain places at certain times. Like many other cities, really.

I don't know a thing about rentals in Morelia but I can tell you that a great place for salsa dancing and lessons is La Casa de la Salsa, facing Plaza Morelos at the end of the Calzada Fray Antonio de San Miguel. Big, lively and a helluva lot of fun.

Best place to eat? There are several places but my favorite - hands down - is the Hotel Casino, across from the cathedral. Consistently excellent good food at great prices. Second best place to eat is at Esperanza and Judith's home but you'll need a special invitation to dine there. ;-)

Jennifer is the all-knowing sage of Morelia and she provided an excellent list of hotels. Here's a new one to add to that list: www.mlmhotel.com.mx . Located about four blocks from the cathedral in a typical colonial-era building but with a very modern interior.

Home means different things to different people and I will probably always call my house in Morelia home. Morelia is most definitely home for me. I eat better in Morelia and I sleep better in Morelia. Some of the finest people I know live in Morelia.

No, Morelia isn't perfect. It isn't exactly quaint, cute and full of expats and it might not even be for you. I'm sure you've heard about the recent narco-related violence. The air quality isn't always clean and pristine. But it's a marvelous city that is certainly worth checking out.

Regarding Patzcuaro -- I have my own favorites places there but I'll let its residents do some bragging of their own...

(This post was edited by TigerTonio on Oct 2, 2009, 1:39 PM)

Hound Dog

Oct 2, 2009, 2:00 PM

Post #3 of 35 (6685 views)

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Re: [TigerTonio] Morelia and more!!

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Morelia's mystique is what originally attracted my partner and myself to purchase a home in Morelia three years ago. And although we've recently moved to the DF, I can still say its Morelia's mystique that I will always love

OK, Tiger but just as a matter of clarification, why would you and,presumably, your partner leave this treasure for DF in which you could fit Morelia in a corner without disrupting traffic during rush hour or subsequently even noticing it´s there at all? Perhaps it was employment opportunities? You do not need to feel the need to respond to me. I´m just curious and in no way do I mean to sound snide.

Anonimo

Oct 2, 2009, 2:31 PM

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Re: [Hound Dog] Morelia and more!!

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I haven't yet seen the MLM Hotel, but there is another hotel, El Mesón de Los Remedios, on Calle Abasalo, across from the corner of Calle los Remedios, which I have visited. It's small and pleasant.

Somehow, I suspect Oscar might like the very colonial style Posada de La Soledad. Or, the Hotel Virrey de Mendoza.

In Pátzcuaro, Oscar might like the Casa Encantada. There are other attractive possibilities.
http://patzcuaro.com/

Saludos,
Anonimo

TigerTonio

Oct 2, 2009, 2:54 PM

Post #5 of 35 (6668 views)

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Re: [Hound Dog] Morelia and more!!

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OK, Tiger but just as a matter of clarification, why would you and,presumably, your partner leave this treasure for DF in which you could fit Morelia in a corner without disrupting traffic during rush hour or subsequently even noticing it´s there at all? Perhaps it was employment opportunities? You do not need to feel the need to respond to me. I´m just curious and in no way do I mean to sound snide.

Oh, come on, Hound Dog aka Bubba! Though I've been inactive lately, I've been a member of this forum for enough time to know how to deal with "snide" folks like you. Kidding! You've always been one of my favorite posters, asinine or not! (LOL)

We're here because of work. We live in a gorgeous, safe and walkable neighborhood in Mexico City. We love it and there's enough to do here for a hundred lifetimes but it still ain't home. So NOPE. Uh-uh. It's not home. Morelia is home!

Hound Dog

Oct 2, 2009, 4:13 PM

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Re: [TigerTonio] Morelia and more!!

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Tiger:

You are an amusing guy. I and you both figure you only get interesting social intercourse by provocative comments. Thanks for coming through. I hope you and your partner enjoy DF. It sure as hell sounds more interesting that provincial Morelia, the small burg that never grew up.

Oscar2

Oct 2, 2009, 5:06 PM

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TigerTonio,

Nice piece! Your sentiments were good and yes, they felt just as good. My wife chuckled and her smile told me that we would definitely have just as much fun at La Casa de la Salsa. The release, the exercise, and a cool refresco fans the sweat beads when dancing con el corazón.

A nice post Bubba made perhaps two or three years ago, made mention of a place in GDL, he likened too and his comment was one which got me to Chapalita. He prefaced it by saying, if I had it to do over again, perhaps I would have chosen this place to live. After searching, buy fluke, I rented a gorgeous 2-bedroom house at an unbelievable price. I mentioned the name of the street it was on, and SP wrote back and not only made my day and broadened my smile by saying, it was one of the most beautiful old neighborhood streets in GDL.

Yes, there is charm someplace, somewhere, simmering and telling through memories one enjoys visiting again and again. I know there are others in the woodwork, who have savored Morelia, such as yourself who have secrets to be told. Peter’s entries and others are looked forward too. Anónimos Patzcuaro, I’ve always enjoyed. He’s been there a number of semesters and has a good feel for the place. There are others I look forward to hearing from, they are all good.

As for the Narco thing, I won’t give it the credence it and other negatives beg for. Instead I’ll give the time of day and respect to Morelia, its people and the good times we anticipate having while there…salute!

(This post was edited by Oscar2 on Oct 2, 2009, 5:12 PM)

esperanza

Oct 2, 2009, 5:27 PM

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Re: [Hound Dog] Morelia and more!!

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Aw c'mon, Dog, Morelia is a charming and cultured city, much more attractive than Guadalajara and filled with so much to enjoy that we aren't able to fit it all in.

MUSIC
We have a fine symphony that plays several 'seasons' per year (at no cost to the public); an equally fine chamber orchestra also plays every two weeks during the fall and winter--also at no cost. We lay claim to the oldest music conservatory in the New World. The annual October organ festival brings tourists from all over the world, as does the annual November Festival Internacional de Música de Morelia http://www.fimm.com.mx. Jazz, folk music, and music from all over Latin America is very popular and accessible here. Club Peña Colibrí is a Morelia institution--trova and folk music are its specialties. On Sunday evening, Lila Downs will give a terrific concert at the Teatro Morelos.

FILM
The annual Festival Internacional del Cine opens tomorrow, with art movies from all over the world, an indigenous film competition, and a festival of Mexican shorts.

DANCE
Morelia hosts several dance festivals a year (classical, modern, and folk), and also offers free dancing (with live music) from the época de oro (golden age) for us old folks.

PLASTIC ARTS
Painting, sculpture, and the rest of the artes plásticos are well-supported here. The Fábrica de Imagines offers excellent classes and exhibit space for photography. Several local museums and many galleries offer exhibit space to artists.

MUSEUMS
The Museo de Arte Contemporaneo, the galleries of the Museo Clavijero, the Museo del Estado, the Museo de la Region, the Museo de Arte Colonial, and the Casa de la Cultura (among others) showcase art made by both early and recent artists from the region, and all have short term as well as long term exhibits.

ARTS AND CRAFTS
Michoacán is internationally known for its artesanía. Specialties are clay, wood, straw and reed work, copper, textiles--the list is long. Morelia's Casa de Artesanía always carries a terrific sampling of regional arts.

EDUCATION
Morelia is home to at least seven major Mexican colleges and universities. La Universidad Michoacana de San Nicolás de Hidalgo was founded in the 15th Century. Higher education is about the only industry we have here!

FOOD
Read Mexico Cooks!. The link is at the end of this post. I agree with Tony; the best restaurant in town is at the Hotel Casino. The chef is both innovative and traditional. Look back a couple of weeks on Mexico Cooks! to find the latest of her successful specialty tasting menus. There are other very good restaurants here, plus a full range of delicious street food.

____________________________________________________________

Oscar, when are you coming to town? Need a guide?

http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com

chinagringo

Oct 2, 2009, 5:41 PM

Post #9 of 35 (6608 views)

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Re: [Oscar2] Morelia and more!!

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We have never stayed in Moreila but are more than happy to recommend our personal favorite in Patzcuaro:
http://mesondesanantonio.com/

We have stayed there a total of three times in the last year - most recently for five nights in August of this year. Our personal favorite is Room 15.

I would contact Alfredo, the owner, to check availability when you are planning to be there. Please feel free to tell him Neil from Albuquerque, NM referred you.
Regards,
Neil
Albuquerque, NM

TigerTonio

Oct 2, 2009, 6:21 PM

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Hound Dog says:

You are an amusing guy. I and you both figure you only get interesting social intercourse by provocative comments. Thanks for coming through. I hope you and your partner enjoy DF. It sure as hell sounds more interesting that provincial Morelia, the small burg that never grew up.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Pfftf! So says the guy who has homes in Qroc-o-xit, Chiapas, and BoringBackwater, Chapala. ;-)

Next time you and Brigette are in Mexico City or that small burg called Morelia, give me a ring and let's have coffee!

Esperanza...you just reminded me that Quentin Tarantino is going to be at the Morelia Film Festival this Sunday and I can't be there this weekend. Ugggh!!

I also just realized that we're revealing too much good stuff about Morelia here. We're only supposed to let the bad info leak out to the media. ;-)

(This post was edited by TigerTonio on Oct 2, 2009, 6:21 PM)

Hound Dog

Oct 2, 2009, 6:24 PM

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Re: [esperanza] Morelia and more!!

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Aw c'mon, Dog, Morelia is a charming and cultured city, much more attractive than Guadalajara and filled with so much to enjoy that we aren't able to fit it all in.

Now, seriously, Esperanza my long-time friend, speaking to an Alabama boy about culture and then using music as an example without mentioning George Jones is akin to talkin about cello artistry to some affectatious Down Easterner without mentioning Yo Yo Ma. What is your problem girl?

Which town is best is according to whom you are predisposed to be in contact with and we both know that. I might prefer Paris but will take Montgomery if that is the place in which I can find my squeeze.

Life is complicated in that regard.

Hound Dog

Oct 2, 2009, 6:40 PM

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Re: [TigerTonio] Morelia and more!!

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Next time you and Brigette are in Mexico City or that small burg called Morelia, give me a ring and let's have coffee!

Thank you Tiger but Morelia isn´t even on the Guadalajara-DF cuota and whenever we pass through DF we never slow down between Toluca and Puebla since the minute we reduce speed we become a magnet for crooked cops from miles around looking for lunch money. I´ll tell you what. There is this fine Italian Coffee Company franchise just west of Puebla after one has ascended the grade to the high plateau but before one has entered the Puebla metro zone where our dogs can crap and the rest of us can sip wine or coffee and eat Italian sandwiches and you guys and Esperanza can spend that time trying to convince me Morelia is other than a Michoacan backwater that Jesus hissef would never slow down for even to save a precious soul.

TigerTonio

Oct 2, 2009, 8:32 PM

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Re: [Hound Dog] Morelia and more!!

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Is there some internet code for simultaneously laughing and sighing?

Oscar, something else that comes to mind...in all honesty, I can count the number of expats I've met in Morelia on one hand. I know there are many living in Morelia and I've "met" some of them online, but it's not a necessity - at least not for me, anyway - to go out of my way to meet other expats in Morelia. My 'hood in Morelia is made up of 95% Mexicanos and our friends are mostly Mexicanos. I suppose if someone invited me to an expat gathering, I might check it out. It's just not a priority.

It's a different story here in Mexico City. I've hardly gotten to know anyone from Mexico but I've met a gazillion folks from around the globe. But then again, the neighborhood I live in is unique.

For some reason, every time I visit Patzcuaro, I meet some fantastic expats.

So I don't know what it is about Morelia. It's just different.

(This post was edited by TigerTonio on Oct 2, 2009, 8:33 PM)

Oscar2

Oct 2, 2009, 9:20 PM

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SP,

The last time I was in SMA, we had the pleasure of listening and dancing to a hot group that was not just cooking but had the place and the people rocking. He and his group were terrific. On his break he came to the bar, I shook his hand, patted him on the back and bought him a drink. We started talking and with my perfect Spanish, :-) the conversation that ensued revealed he was bright, well traveled, on his toes, and amiable.

We talked about his years being brought up in Mexico, his years on the road playing different venues and clubs where he had grown in popularity. One thing I will remember forever, I asked him of all the gigs, venues, nightclubs and concerts he’d attended through the years, which and where does he enjoy playing the most? He flashed his ivory’s from ear to ear, lift his drink to the roof and in a toasting fashion said, Por Siempre Morelia La Mas Hermosa! His gesture, the way he said it was so magnetic, it’s as if my glass was lifted with his and we toasted, Morelia! Little things can stay with you and mean so much when you least expect it……AH…La Vida!

SP, what a nice spread, what I nice invitation can be offered when a city opens their arms and sets the table for partaking. Gracias, we are looking forward to getting there sometime this month or next. As I’ve mentioned before, I’m a seven year season ticket holder for the Angels and 3 years in a row we’ve won the West American League Championship. Automatically when this happens they send you a bill and all the tickets for the Post Season Playoffs and World Series Games. If we beat Boston (our anamneses) next week, there is a strong possibility we will be going again to the World Series as we did in 2002.

Things are sort of on mini hold, right now, but while we’re braced for some butt kicking games ahead, right now it’s edge of the seat, cliff hanging stuff we seem to be chomping at the bit with. I'll keep you posted.

Neil, the website of the hotel, looks more like a B&B. Do they serve meals there as well, or is it that you get kitchen usage as well? It looks very nice, Gracias.

(This post was edited by Oscar2 on Oct 3, 2009, 12:08 AM)

Anonimo

Oct 3, 2009, 2:14 AM

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Oscar, the Mesón de San Antonio has that kitchen for guests' use but also serves a simple Continental breakfast of pan dulce and excellent coffee. They were talking of upgrading the breakfast to something more complete, but I don't know if they have yet. I haven't been in there for some months, due to unrelated matters.

Saludos,
Anonimo

chinagringo

Oct 3, 2009, 4:37 AM

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What Anomino said was right on correct about the breakfast and cooking facilities. We are not breakfast eaters and travel with our own coffee and coffee maker so we didn't utilize those facilities. We do enjoy the quiet location and the fact that it is an easy walk down the hill to the Plaza Grande. We always walked to various restaurants for dinner and then made a casual walk back up the hill after to allow dinner to settle.

While there will be about 15 rooms when they get done rehabbing each of them, they have 8 or 9 in operation now. The courtyard is beautiful with nice sitting areas to relax. The rooms are spotless and the staff is great.

Possibly our favorite hotel that we have experienced in our Mexico travels.

Regards,
Neil
Albuquerque, NM

Oscar2

Oct 3, 2009, 9:32 AM

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Re: [TigerTonio] Morelia and more!!

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Quote

Oscar, something else that comes to mind...in all honesty, I can count the number of expats I've met in Morelia on one hand. I know there are many living in Morelia and I've "met" some of them online, but it's not a necessity - at least not for me, anyway - to go out of my way to meet other expats in Morelia.

Probably the expats that live in Morelia share the same feelings you do and also, quite honestly, in my travels to GDL, Zacatecas, Aguascalientes and a few others, I too enjoy mixing within the circles of the locals and striking up all types of conversations. Not only is it fun, meaningful and more but it also gives me that great opportunity to improve my Spanish, which I relish doing. In my travels and in the Colonia’s I’ve stayed, expats are rarely visible.

The only exception to this rule was Ajijic, Cancun, Ixtapa, and Maz. Hands-down though, Ajijic was like hanging at the local mall NOB. :-) Not being familiar with Morelia, and with the list of numerous hotels and accommodations Jen provided, locating ourselves within short walking distances from its center would seem important, or is it? If you had an opportunity to stay for 10 days or so outside your hood and had to stay within El Centro, within reason, where and which place would you pick to kick back for awhile? Don’t mean to throw a loaded question your way, but let’s look at it as a fun excursion with a cab waiting at your door to pick you up and take you there! :-)

esperanza

Oct 3, 2009, 10:00 AM

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Oscar, have a look at this hotel. http://www.hoteldelasoledad.com/. Located just a block from the Cathedral (the epicenter of the Centro Histórico), it's a gorgeous place to stay. I've seen all of the public areas and most of the rooms and you simply can't do better than this. The hotel even has soundproof glass in the windows to keep city noise at bay.

You might also like to see this one. http://laposadadesanantonio.com/. It's a B&B, located about six blocks from the Cathedral on the most beautiful street in Morelia. Posada San Antonio is a terrific option for a place near the center but not directly IN the center. The rooms are charming and the innkeeper is a great guy.

http://www.mexicocooks.typepad.com

Oscar2

Oct 3, 2009, 10:29 AM

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Gracias Anónimo, its good to know kitchen use is available for guests, my wife will enjoy this. As far as being a breakfast eater Neil, your rendition of breakfast almost sounds like a blueprint of our eating habits. We’ve had some disconcerting and at times hilarious times toting our coffee maker around the world because we too enjoy the way we make our special cup of Joe. We are late breakfast eaters, more like almost noonish we bust out the flavored yogurt, thawed mixed berries, crushed walnuts and a bit of granola and hey, we’re good to go!

Buuuut Mexico, that’s a different story! Ahh- Anónimo's announcement of pan dolce, such a favorite, is normally a no-no according to my loving wife’s dietitian habits but hey, I’m on vacation baby and in Mexico, my occasional haven from discipline! :-)

As far as toting a coffee maker, we forgot to bring one to Bali last year where we stood for a month. As you know, Bali is a very tiny, beautiful, but yet a distant exotic island on the other side of the Indonesian world. We had to have our coffee the way we like it and were willing to kill for it. We scoured every department, store, shopping center and a hell-of-a lot more, but no cigar. As a last ditch effort, I called a nondescript market, a short cab drive away, and bingo, I bought the last one they had sitting on the shelf, for God knows how long. The shattered pieces of our live's came back together again, it was complete, we were happy!! :-) Ho-Humm…..

chinagringo

Oct 4, 2009, 7:27 AM

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Kathy accused me of being a "coffee snob" when we first got together but after experiencing the coffee that comes from our Capresso (Grind & Brew), she has joined the club. Since this unit is too big to tote on a trip, we carry a Cuisinart unit that brew directly into two travel mugs. Our travel backpack with this unit, our preferred special grind of the same coffee we use at home, my must have Sugar in the Raw, her artificial sweetener and half & half allow us to have coffee prior to even thinking about taking a shower in the morning. This accessory travels with us no matter where we go in Mexico or the United States.
Regards,
Neil
Albuquerque, NM

Hound Dog

Oct 4, 2009, 10:52 AM

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We have no problem finding great coffee on the road in Oaxaca, Chiapas and Yucatan the former two of which are world famous cofee growing regions. These people are so advanced over us. They have developed a process called the Nescafe Freeze Dry and you walk into any roadside cafe anywhere down there and the coffee is ready almost instantly even though the water with which it is made may be suspect. This coffee and its food accompaniments are absolutely up to the standard of the food served in roadhouses serving catfish baskets with hushpuppies in rural Mississippi. As Oscar would say, bring your own bearnaise.

chinagringo

Oct 4, 2009, 11:19 AM

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Bubba:

Your position on the improvement in available coffees has been well documented! Going back a number of years, we were unable to find coffee that met our "depth of flavor" requirements and got in the habit of bringing down our particular favorite at the time. With our normal aggressive travel schedule, we have not been able to schedule in "coffee experimentation" and thus have found it easier just to bring our own along. I don't doubt that there are some wonderful coffees available but the term NESCAFE makes my pallet cringe!
Regards,
Neil
Albuquerque, NM

Oscar2

Oct 4, 2009, 12:35 PM

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SP,

The last time we were in Zacatecas, and Aguascalientes it was on a November, and with their altitude, the nights were very cold. The lodging we got had heaters, which took the edge of the cold at night and in the mornings. With tiled floors, yes, it can get a bit cold and if accommodations can provide a heater, this isn’t to hard to take.

The hotel you recommended is not only gorgeous but a splendor of Mexico’s ambiance, which invites ones pleasure in staying there. A bit pricy and something missing in that price was heaters for the Morelia 7500 ft. chill in the mornings. I brought it to their attention and they replied that because of the very high ceilings, a heater would be ineffective and yes, this makes sense.

About a week ago while on a yacht tour at Shelter Cove, before you can tour these enormous yachts, 175 ft. pleasure dream palaces; they make you take off your shoes so as not to soil the plush carpets. As I was descending to the master suit, down a narrow spiral staircase, without shoes, my bare feet lost traction and I fell down a flight of 5 carpeted stairs and pulled something that required a Cortisone shot. I’m still recovering and the cold doesn’t make it feel much better. Sooooo, if I can find a place with a heater, close to El Centro, this would be great.

I still have to get to your website and check out the restaurants you recommend visiting. Should you find other places to stay near El Centro that would really be nice.

chinagringo

Oct 4, 2009, 1:23 PM

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With respect to Meson de San Antonio, each room has a fireplace and they provide a freshly laid firewood each day. Our only confusion was whether to light the fire when going to bed at night or wait to light it in the mornings to take the chill off. We decided on when we returned from dinner in the evenings.
Regards,
Neil
Albuquerque, NM

Oscar2

Oct 4, 2009, 1:35 PM

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Neil,

Your penchant for a certain taste in coffee is definitely understandable, as it is for someone to feel rooted with down home backwater Mississippi hushpuppies. I remember one occasion when we were passing through immigration entering Cancun, I believe we got a red light or something and they pulled out a large baggy of either a special type of synthetic sweetener or it was a bag of powdered creamola used in our coffee. Nonetheless, they kept it but our accustomed Yuban Columbian coffee was saved.

Do to space issues; we tote a small 4-cupper coffee maker. Consistent with your habits, we too perk the coffee in our room, sit around languishing, reading articles, going over maps, broachers and planning for the day while hugging a cup of Joe. Mexico has always been a favorite of ours in doing this and once again, we’re on our way very soon.

The fireplace is a plus in those very cool Patzcuaro evening and mornings. Something to look forward to while visiting for awhile.

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