Mar 13, 2007, 9:43 PM
Post #1 of 2
We were headed from Villahermosa to the Maya Riviera and Jonna urged us to make a stop at the ruins of Calakmul. I'm so incredibly glad we did. The road (MX186) out of Villahermosa is good, 4 land divided for about 40km. It then desintrigrates into minefields of trailer-swallowing potholes for the next 110km. But, they are working on it and paving new ground. Literally. From the Palenque cutoff the road improves incredibly and if you're not dragging 4 kids along, I'd stay at the hugely vacant Pemex just north of Escareaga. There is a restaurant there. Course, if you're not dragging your house behind you, you might want to push on.
We stopped at the restaurant "La Selva" and it is in a town/community/ejido that starts "Coau" something or other but is at about km 93ish. Maybe 95. If we found it in the dark, it should be easy in day. They rent cabanas there and make incredibly good food. Calakmul turnoff is about 2km down MX186. You will be charged 40 pesos for the car and 40 pesos for each adult entering the preserve (you're going through the Biosphere). Bicycles 20 pesos. The road is decent the first 20km and then becomes a very narrow road for the last 40km but really, it is very much worth it. The ruins are amazing, the views astounding (you can JUST barely see El Mirador in Guatemala from Estructura II) and the birds, turkey, monkeys, everything makes it even more amazing. We spent a FULL day there and the kids wanted to go back the next day. No food there; no water; as a matter of fact, water is in short supply and the toliets are composting. Bring it all in. I'll leave you with a picture of my girls atop Estructura II with Estructura XIII in the distance.
Hell's Half Acre