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sfmacaws


Dec 10, 2006, 1:42 PM

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Beautiful Zacatecas

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While we have driven around the city of Zacatecas 3 or 4 times, we have never stopped. This year, we found a great place to stay with the Rv and have spent this weekend being tourists. What a gorgeous city! The colonial buildings are spectacular, the cathedral amazing, the callejons running up and down the hills picturesque. It's a beautiful spot that I highly recommend to anyone who likes colonial cities with lots of charm.

I was thinking that it could easily rivel San Miguel or other colonial cities for atmosphere and beautiful colonial mansions to restore and wondering why it was not a bigger draw. I guess that the altitude has something to do with it, it would definitely discourage me from living here. It's around 8000' and with that come colder temps. The news said there was a possibility of snow flurries the night we got here but all the snow fell behind us in Chihuahua.

I really can't walk up and down these hills at this altitude so we got on one of those double decker type tourist buses, we were the only ones on it, and for $30p took an hours drive around the city. We sat up on top and it was fun and we learned a little. I could follow most of the speil, in spanish, but when I'd start translating for Mimi I'd lose the rest. We then took a taxi up to one of the Coronel brothers museums, the largest collection of masks in Mexico. It's housed in an old Franciscan monastary that has been partially restored. Just amazing the masks and the location was gorgeous. Next we went up to the sister hotel from the one we are parked at, it's at the terminus of the teleferico that runs over the city between two hills. We are parked at the Hacienda del Bosque which is on the outskirts and has full hookups for RVs in a cobblestoned parking area and the Hotel del Bosque is the one we visited at the top of the hill. The views were wonderful, we got there before sunset and there was a double rainbow over the city from the morning rain. We had hot chocolate with kahlua and queso fundido to warm up.

It's been a lot of fun and I want to come back another time. The cathedral was closed yesterday and while it is open today, my chances of getting Mimi inside on a Sunday are pretty slim. I may let her stand around outside though as I really want to see the interior.

Jerzano, I asked a cab driver how far to Jerez and he said an hour. Since most mexicans in cars drive twice as fast as we do in the RV, I figured it is a 2 hour trip each way so I gave up the idea of visiting. Maybe another time, it sounds like a beautiful area.


Jonna - Mérida, Yucatán





raferguson


Dec 10, 2006, 3:53 PM

Post #2 of 11 (1261 views)

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Re: [sfmacaws] Beautiful Zacatecas

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We loved Zacatecas. Try to go see the Goitia museum, remarkable art. The underground mine tour is worth doing also. Nearby Guadalupe has an old monastery with interesting murals, we hired a guide for a tour in spanish.

We were staying in the center of town, on the Plaza de Armas. We remember a few political demonstrations, I got a photo of an old peasant waving a yellow PRD flag.

Richard


http://www.fergusonsculpture.com


esperanza

Dec 10, 2006, 6:02 PM

Post #3 of 11 (1242 views)

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Re: [sfmacaws] Beautiful Zacatecas

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Zacatecas is a really remarkable city. It's a cowboy town, but it's also filled with the most amazing cultural events. Five or six top-flight museums (the Rafael Coronel is the mask museum; the Pedro Coronel is incredible, filled with his personal collection of art and artifacts, the Goítia is my personal favorite, the print shop at the Felguérez is not to be missed), the superb UdeZ, art galleries packed with extraordinary paintings and sculptures, shops, all the plazuelas and callejones that you mentioned, churches (the old Jesuit church is marvelous), that glorious theatre across from the Cathedral, constant film, dance, music, and art festivals--it's my second-favorite city in Mexico. Stay a while!




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tonyburton


Dec 10, 2006, 6:14 PM

Post #4 of 11 (1239 views)

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Re: [esperanza] Beautiful Zacatecas

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And don't forget all the wonderful information about Zacatecas city and state right here on this site - organized like a mini-site within the main site - via http://www.mexconnected.com/...atecas/zacindex.html It's a great city! Enjoy!


sfmacaws


Dec 10, 2006, 6:30 PM

Post #5 of 11 (1232 views)

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Re: [tonyburton] Beautiful Zacatecas

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I know I will be back to Zacatecas. We have to leave tomorrow, we have to be in Akumal to pick a friend up at the airport on the 19th and we want to stop in Veracruz.

I like Esperanza's description of it as a cowboy town with culture. It seems true, the amount of art and beautiful architecture is astounding and yet many of the men are wearing cowboy hats and the Bienvenidos Paisanos signs in the city all show a zacateco in cowboy hat and western coat. We were approached by one that looked much like the models in the signs, he and his family were here from Santa Rosa in California and stopped us on the street to talk. It was his daughter's first visit and he was very proudly showing her his home town.

I have much left to see, I kind of like that because it brings me back again.


Jonna - Mérida, Yucatán




wendy devlin

Dec 11, 2006, 10:22 AM

Post #6 of 11 (1190 views)

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Re: [sfmacaws] Beautiful Zacatecas

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Am smiling at the description of Zacatecas, "cowboy town with culture."

Would like to sometime visit this interesting city .

The description above reminds me of wonderful times spent living among ranching people in several smaller colonial 'cowboy towns'.

Having lived since 18, in Canadian countryside, and small towns, I thought I knew farming/ranching people. Professional cowboys still exist here but 'cowboy culture' is not generally, equated with art, literature and beautiful architecture.

(Hearty apologies in advance to any poetry, song-writing cowboys who might be reading this forum:)

What gave me a long thrill of discovery was finding out about the many traditions of the vaquero, el charro etc. alive and well in Mexico today.
Many of those discoveries were relate in my old series about Mexican espectaculos. However many experiences are not described in that series.

Those articles BTW were edited with the help of various friends who were eager that i get the cultural details and especially the Spanish, correct. In fact the series could never have been written or published without these people.

Still not sure how to describe many things. Have to go back and do more 'research':)

Do think however, the cultural traditions from by-gone eras are rooted in human need. Humans, in my opinion, do not fundamentally change, and so perhaps, the needs still exist, and the customs of substance survive.

Besides the mining wealth that built the largess of those colonial towns, agriculture, especially cattle ranching provided another economic back-bone to the regions. Much of what people needed to live was made in the region or traded within the country.

Instead of a creating a culture back then, that looked down its nose, at people in agriculture and ranching, in colonial towns, there bloomed a culture where 'senores de ganado" (men of cattle) numbered among the movers and shakers in the region. Often at or near the 'top' of a pyramidal social structure.

Some still living proudly within traditions today.

And did I mention, tough:)

Yet often, lovers of wine, women, and song. Literature, art and architecture.

In case this post seem overly romantic, have also spent time living among, vaqueros and charros of another breed entirely.

Violent and coarse. Tough.

People of all stripes... everywhere.


jerezano

Dec 11, 2006, 5:53 PM

Post #7 of 11 (1155 views)

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Re: [sfmacaws] Beautiful Zacatecas

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Hello sfmacaws,

Too bad you missed Jerez. It really is only an hour. 45 minutes for the superfast driver.

And you are right. Zacatecas is at too high an altitude. At 8000' and with all those hills most of us older folk can't do much walking. And it is cold in the winter time.

Jerez at 6520'is much better and is level on the valley floor, but can still be cold in December January and February. The reason I am right now in the Rio Grande Valley where today was in the the high 70*'s.

What most people don't realize is that during the colonial period and the height of the silver shipments to Spain, Zacatecas City was the largest and most important city in New Spain. Larger at one time than Mexico City itself. And with all that money the mansions were and still are magnificent. Two other sleepers are Sombrerete and Bolaños. Both of which mined so much silver that mints were established there. Most of us know about Real de Catorce but that was much later in the cycle.

I recommend a visit to Zacatecas city in the summer time highly. It is a sleeper on the Silver circuit.

Adiós. jerezano.


Judy in Ags


Dec 11, 2006, 8:02 PM

Post #8 of 11 (1140 views)

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Re: [tonyburton] Beautiful Zacatecas

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I looked at that site, but most of the links didn't work.


Papirex


Dec 11, 2006, 9:01 PM

Post #9 of 11 (1132 views)

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Re: [Judy in Ags] Beautiful Zacatecas

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Computers like to play with our brains sometimes. I just checked the page, and all the links except two were working. In the lower left hand corner the links “ Benevinido a Zacatecas” and “Rough Guide’s Zacatecas” were the only two that are dead tonight.

One thing that was a little confusing for me for a few moments, was that the headings above the descriptions for the various areas, is the link. The text below the headings is just that, text.

Rex
"The supreme happiness of life is the conviction that we are loved" - Victor Hugo

(This post was edited by RexC on Dec 11, 2006, 9:21 PM)


esperanza

Dec 11, 2006, 9:08 PM

Post #10 of 11 (1130 views)

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Re: [jerezano] Beautiful Zacatecas

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Sombrerete is one of my top picks of Mexican towns. It's just lovely. I've not spent nearly enough time there and want to make 2007 the year for a return trip.




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tonyburton


Dec 11, 2006, 9:49 PM

Post #11 of 11 (1126 views)

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Re: [esperanza] Beautiful Zacatecas

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Yes, I like it too! It would be wonderful if, after your visit, you were able to provide an update to:
http://www.mexconnect.com/...es/tbzacsombret.html in terms of sights, hotel information and prices, etc., and (if it's not too much to beg) some decent photos!! Enjoy your visit, Tony.

PS Thank you, previous posters in this thread, for pointing out the link problems from the Zacatecas index page; they have all now been fixed (or removed).
 
 
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